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  1. Good evening everyone! I hope you're all keeping well? After almost 5 weeks of work (and more money than I should probably admit to) I've finally completed my rendition of an American Airlines Boeing 777-300ER in 1:144 scale: ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I could write a lot about this build (and I have on the Work in Progress thread), but I shall try and keep it relatively short and sweet. Just over a year ago I took my first flight, in an attempt to get over my fear of both flying and heights. In the space of 2 weeks I'd been on 6 flights and it was on the 7th flight that I had the pleasure of flying on the Boeing 777. We were originally supposed to fly back with British Airways but delays caused by the weather meant we ended up catching an American Airlines flight the next day. The flight was incredible- there was very little turbulence, the views were unbeatable, the crew were friendly and the flight was empty (so plenty of opportunity to move around). The thing which captured my attention about the 777 was its size. It's comparatively gargantuan! Although we flew on a 777-223(ER), I didn't fancy modifying the Revell 1:144 -300ER kit dramatically- except for doing a bit of scratchbuilding and using Pas-Decals decals for the AA scheme. On that note, many of the lumps, bumps and antennae are placed as per the instruction sheet and are likely not 100% representative of where they are on the real thing. But despite this being my first airliner kit in a long while, and my first real attempt at using rattle cans, I really enjoyed this build. Look at the size of it! ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- So there we are then. The base is only temporary, as I'd like to have something a bit more structurally sound than a cardboard box, but hey it works. As I said previously, this build has been an immense amount of fun to work on and although I'm pleased with how it's come out, I am even more satisfied with the skills that I've had the chance to develop along the way. I had planned for this to be my last project prior to starting back at university (again!) but naturally the situation has since changed and I should be able to get away with commuting. The next project might just be a certain venerable workhorse that had (until recently) served with distinction as part of the British Airways fleet... Thank you so much for following along, and dropping by to have a look. See you on the next one! All the best, Sam
  2. AeroModL (https://www.aeromodl.com/) is to release a family of 1/72 Boeing B737 resin kits. Source: https://www.aeromodl.com/our-kits - B737-200 - https://www.aeromodl.com/our-kits/b732 - B737-300 - https://www.aeromodl.com/our-kits/mjqqfo6l2467lywyb9fqnr18vwc8d3-hyj3x - B737-400 - https://www.aeromodl.com/our-kits/mjqqfo6l2467lywyb9fqnr18vwc8d3 - B737-500 - https://www.aeromodl.com/our-kits/mjqqfo6l2467lywyb9fqnr18vwc8d3-hyj3x-h9ddw V.P.
  3. B-17 Engines & Turbochargers (MDR4854 & MDR4857 for Revell/Monogram) 1:48 Metallic Details The old Monogram tooled B-17 in 1:48 is an ageing kit that will benefit from extra attention in the detail department, with Metallic Details of Ukraine having created a very worthy offering in the engine department. Available as two separate sets to allow you to decide which aspects of the engines you’re most interested in if there are budget cxonstraints, you can buy an engine set and a separate set for the Turbochargers, which are very prominent on the bottoms of the nacelles. As they’re related, let’s have a look at them both. B-17 Engines (MDR4854) Arriving in a large(ish) card box with a label printed with a picture of the finished set on top, the interior is completely stuffed with resin and Photo-Etch (PE), all safely cocooned in individual resealable bags. If you read our review of the R1280 engine before this, you’ll recognise many of the parts, which are provided in multiples of four for each of the engines. There are eighteen large resin parts plus two bags of tiny parts that are too small and too numerous for me to count without removing my socks - ok, there's 103 of them with a few spares for good measure. There are also five small sheets of PE in a fine gauge to assist with ease of bending as well as realistic thickness. Construction begins with adding small arrow-shaped brass inserts that fit between the cylinders, then adding the intake piping to the centre, aligning each tube to the right of the head. Small parts and harnesses are fitted to the outer surface of the cylinder banks, then the push-rods and wiring harnesses in resin and PE respectively are glued in place to complete construction. With the cylinder blocks completed, the fronts of the kit engine nacelles are replaced with the new highly detailed units that have the exhaust collector ring moulded in, and for the inboard engines the extension that takes the exhaust gases back past the gear bays is also included with two of them supplied. The outer engines have their collector rings attached directly to the turbosuperchargers, so they attach directly to the outlet. With all the engines attached to the square lugs in the centre of the collector rings, the cowlings are fitted with the two curved sets of cooling flaps that operate when the engine temperature rises. There is a small ledge around the cut-out to give a good strong joint, while the PE flaps give a more in-scale appearance from the rear, allowing a peek into the superb detail of the engines. All of this sumptuous detail will require painting as it is assembled, and there aren’t any painting guides provided in the set, but there are ample resources online should you need them. It’s an incredibly well-detailed set of engines for the Monogram kit, and if you are serious about your detail, these are just perfect. B-17 Turbochargers (MDR4857) Strictly speaking they’re turbosuperchargers, and they’re quite simply moulded in the kit. This set provides four replacements of twelve parts in a small box, with four cut-out shells into which the mechanism fits, requiring a little kit surgery. The two inboard units have handed recesses that are marked L and R for your ease, while the outboard units are set centrally in the underside of the nacelles, so are identical and symmetrical. The units themselves are also provided with two marked L and R, plus another two identical units with long trunking for the outer engines. All of the central sections are individual parts that slot into the recessed centres for improved detail and easier casting. Again, the detail is exemplary and with a little care the set can be integrated into the model improving its immensely. Coupled with the engines themselves, they will be a knock-out! Conclusion These sets are exquisitely detailed and use the latest 3D printing techniques to create the masters and provide us with such crisp parts that were almost impossible 10-15 years ago. The kit will need a little fettling to accept the new parts, but anyone with some previous experience of using resin parts in their models and a soupçon of common sense shouldn’t struggle unduly. Extremely highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  4. ?'ve just bought the Academy C-97A in 1/72. I was wondering in is possible to convert it in a Civil B-377 thanks
  5. Airfix Boeing 707 1/144 26 Decals - Air Mauritius I've got three of the ancient Airfix 707's in the stash, but what to do with them? They are the Conway engined -436 version not used by very many airlines. Browsing the 26 Decals website I came across this laser decal sheet which really appealed to me. It covers two ex- British Airways 707's, G-APFD and G-ARWD. I chose G-ARWD, originally delivered to British Eagle and sister ship to the ill fated G-ARWE. The kit originates from 1963 and has a number of areas for improvement. In no particular order: The nose is way too narrow, I shimmed it by about 5mm to fatten it, and fitted a Dacp clear cockpit section. I've been using these on Airfix Airliners, and done several 737s and a 727 with them. The 707 can now be added to that list. The talfin is too short, I raised it by about 10mm The engines are horrible. I widened the intakes (which made a huge improvement) and sanded them to a better shape. All raised panel lines sanded off an rescribed I made one or two other improvements, but this has been lurking on my work bench for about a year, as I worked on it slowly, It always seemed to need filling or sanding, so was never the favourite when I got a bit of bench time! Anyway, I got there in the end it is now finished. I'm not in any hurry to start the other two just yet. With something else, its' rival the DC-8, also using 26 Decals. Thanks for looking. John
  6. A long time ago on a modelling forum far, far away I started a project I am determined to finish and due to me having trouble posting pictures on said forum I decided to bring this project across to where all my other crazy ideas (they just might work!) are. so to begin the 747-600 if built would have been the longest 747 ever at 279 feet long with a wingspan of 250 feet. This means stretching the fuselage by 100mm with a 40/22/38mm split and the wings by 48mm each. As you can see I have elected to keep the stretch to a minimum by removing as little as possible from the SUD and upper section while still achieving the same stretch as the first time below hopefully I will start assembling the two sides of the fuselage and get some pics with my standard 747-400 for reference. A long time ago I decided to build a 747-700 as well but I must admit (defeat) that I have come to my senses as that is not going to happen (unfortunately). But i am now building a (poss. Thai Air) 747-8i and a Cargolux 747-8F to go with my old school Thai Air 747-400 and Gulf Air 747-600.
  7. Looks like there's a 1/72nd Boeing B-747-100 kit in design from ukrainian source - First 3D renders Sources: http://www.greenmats.club/forums/topic/5549-172-boeing-747-100 https://www.facebook.com/groups/greenmats/permalink/2251118168281046/ V.P.
  8. Hello all, Been some time since my last 727 model, but having passed my coach driving test I've been rather busy! But having been recently furloughed I've had some time to finish my Zvezda 737-800 I started some time ago, complete with 26 Decals Caribbean Airlines decals for 9Y-TAB. One of my favourite builds, and my first Zvezda build though a bit more fiddly than I thought, some over engineered bit's (the TINY bit needed to go on the wingtip for example could have been part of the mould, I ended up loosing that part so had to use a plasticard replacement) For the flying option I went for to use the stand, putting the main wheels in the body wasn't easy, nor was putting the front doors for the front wheel easy either, and the idea of having just two very tiny holes to hold the horizontal stabilizers isn't great, especially when a decal goes over it as well, so having to be careful with glue with not much of a fitting. So a fiddly kit but really does pay off in the end, happy with this and looking forward to my Minicraft build next, thanks for looking! James.
  9. Hi everyone, long time no see. Somehow I'm back into assembling kits, due to a lockdown, of course. So, this time it is the Zvezda's triple seven, arguably their best kit in the Emirates livery by the Pas-decals (Actually three sets of decals because kit decal is way too poor). Well, the build was relatively straight and easy. Some known flaws that I'm still not capable to fix (droop wings for instance). Quite a few mistakes of mine.. All in all I've learned a lot from this build and quite happy with the result. Cheers, Steve
  10. I am currently planning/collecting models/parts for building 3 (make that 6 now) Revell 747s. The first is a 747-400 in Thai Air livery, second a 747-600 conversion in Gulf Air Livery and thirdly a 747-8i in an as yet undecided scheme. Here's my first question, should I fill the panel lines as they are quite obviously too deep? I have on the go... 1. 747-400 Thai Air 2. 747-600 BOAC 3. 747-8i Air NZ 4. 747-8i Gulf Air 5. 747-400Y British Airways Landor 6. 747-Xstrech Virgin Atlantic And a hankering for more
  11. B-17 Wheels (648529 for HKM) 1:48 Eduard Brassin HK Models have broken away from their own de facto scale and used the data they collected for their 1:32 B-17 kit to create a new tooling in 1:48. That’s got my vote, as that’s my scale. Eduard have this nice set of resin wheels to replace the injection moulded parts on the kit, with masks into the bargain. As is now usual with Eduard's smaller resin sets, they arrive in the new shallow Brassin cardboard box, with the resin parts safely cocooned in bags, and the instructions folded around acting as padding. Inside the box are three resin wheels plus four additional hub parts and a set of pre-cut kabuki masks for them all (not pictured). Construction is simplicity itself and will take a few moments once you have removed them from their casting blocks with a razor saw or motor tool. The wheels have diamond tread and a very slight weighting to them where they attach to the casting block, and they are joined by the two hub parts in the centre, the inner one having a keyed socket for the axle to pass into. At the rear the small tail wheel is a drop-fit replacement, and masks are included for all hubs to give a perfect paint demarcation between hub and tyre. A scrap diagram shows how the wheel should look when installed and placed on the ground. Review sample courtesy of
  12. Big Planes Kits (BPK) is to release in late 2020 a 1/144th Boeing B-757-200 kit - ref. 144xx 1/72nd kit should follow in the twenties. Source: http://bigplaneskits.com/757-200-1-144/ V.P.
  13. Hi all! Is it possible to convert the Airfix 1/72 UH-46 Sea Knight into a Boeing V 107-II-2? What would the external differences be? And does anyone know if there are New York Airways decals for this aircraft? THA for any replies! DennisTheBear
  14. After the B-737-200 (link), Big Plane Kits (BPK) is to release a 1/72nd Boeing B-737-100 kit - ref. 7201 Sources: http://bigplaneskits.com/shop/uncategorized/737-100-7201/ https://www.facebook.com/BigPlanesKits/photos/a.1510613519216386/2565169030427491/ http://bigplaneskits.com/737-100-1-72-color-schemes/ Box art V.P.
  15. This is my 1/72 Northrop Grumman E-8C Joint STARS build using the Heller E-3 Sentry kit and the Flightpath (David Parkins) E-8 conversion. May of 2018 I build the Heller kit as an E-3 and my opinion of the kit has not improved; very poor fit and finish almost as bad as Mach 2. But the decals were excellent. The Flightpath conversion contains a resin canoe,etched metal antennas and templates for the added doors and windows, and some white metal parts. No decals are included. The instruction are OK, but they make no mentions about marking so I used this picture from Wikipedia as my guide I had used the Flightpath TF-33 engines on the E-3, but based on this picture the housing shape is different and more closely resemble the kit parts so I decided to use them. You will notice from the picture that all 4 engines have a hood on top of them that goes from the front of the pylon to the front of the engine. I got half way through the build when I discovered that the Heller kit had that hood on only 3 of the engines but not the left outboard one . I am told that is correct for the KC-135 and maybe some E-3s, but not the E-8, at least not this one. I was a bit of a loose how to fix this and went on Ebay to see if I could get another kit for cheap to use one of the engines when miraculously I found someone in the UK selling just the engine sprue from the kit. So I bought that immediately. Unfortunately it had to be shipped from the UK to the US so while I was waiting I built the Monogram F-16XL kit. Once the new sprue came work proceeded fairly quickly. Wolfpak made a decal sheet (72-077) that included E-8 markings but unfortunately I did not have the foresight to buy it when it was available and it is now out of production. Fortunately the markings for the E-3 and E-8 are mostly the same so I was able to use the kit ones and only had to cobble together the tail markings from bit and pieces from other sheets. I rushed the final completion so I could get it finished in time to bring it to my local club's meeting tonight. That worked out and it won the monthly contest . So here are the pictures. And here it is in its new home. It is pretty big and takes up a whole shelf to itself Next up is the Hasegawa F-G Wild Weasel. Enjoy.
  16. Hi, Hasegawa calls out Mr. Color 315 as the aircraft gray for A320 and 737-700. However I've noticed on few forum posts people recommend using 338 for Boeing. So I've got both colors and the colors look quite similar except 315 is a bit warm. What are your thoughts on which color should be used for gray? Due to work schedule I wouldn't be able to get to the airport in a day time for a week so can't compare to the real thing. Do both manufacturers use the same color or one could be a better much for Airbus and another for Boeing? Is it the same color that is used on USAF RC-135 Rivet Joint? Thanks!
  17. US Apache, pics thanks to DL Munne.
  18. B-52G Updates (for Modelcollect) 1:72 Eduard Many of us have been waiting for a new tooled B-52 for a long time, and ModelCollect have now obliged, starting with the B-52G that we reviewed here, recently. Eduard's new range of sets are here to improve on the kit detail in the usual modular manner. Get what you want for the areas you want to be more of a focal point. As usual with Eduard's Photo-Etch (PE) and Mask sets, they arrive in a flat resealable package, with a white backing card protecting the contents and the instructions that are sandwiched between. Interior (73646) Two frets are included, one nickel plated and pre-painted, the other in bare brass. A complete set of new layered instrument panels and side consoles are the primary parts on the painted set, with new rudder pedals and box; ejection seat details; a new crew-seats for the third top-deck crew; crew-harnesses for all three seats; a new floor skin, crew ladder and entranceway detail are also supplied along with a brand new lower hatch that fits into the existing hole. Zoom! Set (SS646) This set contains a reduced subset of the interior, namely the pre-painted parts that are used to improve on the main aspects of the cockpit, as seen above. Whatever your motivations for wanting this set, it provides a welcome boost to detail, without being concerned with the structural elements. Engines(72680) This larger bare brass set contains some important detail parts, such as the fans within the engines, beginning with the intake compressor, for which you are told to carve a piece of sprue to the shape of the stator cone – times eight, of course. Another fan is attached to the front of the internal tube, and an exhaust lip with three triangular(ish) flaps encroaching back into the trunk is glued to the rear of each exhaust. You will need to build them up in pairs due to the arrangement of the engine, with four pods making up the dreaded 8-engine approach. Landing Flaps (72677) To say that this is the largest set doesn't convey quite how much brass is in the bigger ziplok bag. There are two approximately A5 sheets, plus two other extra sheets that would normally be large enough for a whole set, which meant I had to scan the set in two parts as it wouldn't fit on my Letter sized plattern. The B-52's wings are enormous, so it's flying surfaces are bound to be too, which explains the hectares of PE we have here. Each flap bay is made up from a central slab that has many of the delicate ribs with detail layer captive initially, which are then folded, twisted and bent back into the etched lines, whilst meshing with the lateral parts to form the internal structure of the bay. Additional ribs are added, and flap-runs are fixed to the assembly along with 0.8mm rod from your own stock. The inner flap bays have masses of additional detail added around the root, plus a skin that matches the cut-out to the flap itself. The kit flaps are replaced by new ones all fabricated from PE, which is bent and folded over to the correct shape and detailed with small brackets, access hatches etc. once you have all four bays and flaps completed, the kit flap detail needs to be removed from the insides, with a scrap diagram showing you what to remove. The bays are then glued in place, and the linkages between the bays and flaps are finished off, allowing the modeller to join them to the model. Due to the realism of the connections, the flaps will be quite delicate, so the attachment is best done after all the major handling of the aircraft is over, so plan ahead. Masks (CX531) Supplied on a sheet of yellow kabuki tape, these pre-cut masks supply you with a full set of masks for the canopy, plus a set of hub masks for all the wheels, allowing you to cut the demarcation perfectly with little effort. Review sample courtesy of
  19. B-17F/G Flying Fortress 1:32 HK Models The B-17 that first flew in 1935 was quite a different beast than the one that flew during WWII, having a glossy bare metal finish, a traditional vertical tail with no fin fillet, and lots of glass. The press coined the term "Flying Fortress" because of the number of gunnery positions around the aircraft, which stuck and was later trademarked by Boeing. Its first attempt to gain approval and induction into the USAAF was foiled by an unfortunate accident that wrote off the prototype and killed the pilots, but it was given a second bite at the cherry because of its comparative performance, and was eventually accepted into service with more powerful Cyclone engines and without the blister-type waist gunner windows. The E model was probably the first "real" fortress, with a large expanded tail, tail gunner position and guns in the nose. It also has the familiar ball-turret on the underside that stayed with it throughout the rest of production. The F model brought in some more changes, most notable of which is the almost frameless nose glazing, which afforded the bomb-aimer a much better view, although he must have felt commensurately more exposed as a result. The G model with its jutting remotely operated chin-turret was the final mark of the war, and fought doggedly over Europe with a formidable offensive armament consisting of 13 guns. This of course was at the expense of bomb-load, which diminished the further the Fortress was tasked from home. Post war the B-17 was converted and used in a number of civilian roles, as well as some remaining military and pseudo-military roles such as Coast Guard and search and rescue. There are still a large number of airframes in airworthy condition, and most Brits that have been to the airshow circuit have seen the Sally-B at some point in their lives. The Kit This is a pre-release sample of the kit, and as such doesn't come with instructions, decals or even a finalised box. As a result my review will be a little out-of-the-ordinary compared to my usual offering, but I will try to cover as much of the build process as I can, which you can appreciate is a little tricky, given that there are no instructions. I spent a couple of hours poring over it with a pal, plus a few more on my own with my trusty Tamiya tape, and have divined where the main structures sit, as well how the supplied stand works. The first thing of note is that this is a huge model kit. If you have the B-25 and think that's big, you'll need to think again and reassess how you consider model kit sizes. With large size comes problems of strength because styrene isn't the strongest of materials, as anyone with cats or toddlers will have found out at some point. Each wing is a shade over 45cm in length, and the fuselage width maxes out at the wing root to 8.5cm, so you're going to have a total wingspan just scraping in under one metre. That's around 39 inches in old money. The fuselage measures at 71cm without the rear guns, which is around 28 inches. It sounds odd, but it has a presence in excess of those dimensions however, and it looks "right" to my eyes. It's difficult to judge the shape of a kit whilst still in the box, so the major parts were taken off the sprues and taped together to get a feel for it, and work out how some of the parts fit together. The fuselage and wings are covered in over 800,000 rivets, which are very nicely done, and can barely be felt by running your finger over them. A coat of primer followed by a couple of coats of airbrushed paint and varnish should see them looking quite realistically minimised. There are also raised panels, and a couple of different widths of panel lines around the airframe, which give the impression of the aircraft's skin very well, and enhance the initial wow-factor. It is important to consider the structure of a styrene model of this size, and how it will hang together both initially and in the longer term. There have been some clever techniques used by the designers that will please many potential purchasers, the first of which is the inclusion of a wall-mount for the completed model. It is on a small sprue of its own, and consists of a base plate with a circular depression in the centre, and a cross-shaped set of slots in the bottom of the depression. This allows you to screw the supplied anchor to the wall using a single screw/wall-bolt, and then slot the stand onto it in any one of four orientations, up, down and either side. The four legs slot into corresponding holes in the fronts of the bomb-bay bulkheads, so you'll need to glue the bay doors in the open position to utilise this feature. If you're not going to use the stand, you'll need to fill the four holes with the four disks that are hidden away on the sprues to make good, because they're around 6mm across and not present on the real thing. The pairs of legs are of different lengths, allowing the tail to drop slightly toward the wall, and the opposing directions of the pegs stop the model from slipping off over time. The legs are secured in the base by four styrene pins that slot into holes on the side of the base, but I'd consider replacing those with metal pegs, just in case. The next aspect to consider is whether the kit can be built so that the wings can be removed. This is a resounding "yes", as the wings once complete are offered up to the fuselage slightly forward of their intended position, then slid back into place with a satisfying clunk, where they stay very firmly without glue. I've been handling the taped together fuselage and wings during my exploration, and had no cause to doubt that the wings will stay put. The strength of the wing join is bolstered by the two bomb bay bulkheads, which span the entire inside fuselage, and are backed up from the inside by a pair of short stub spars, just like the real thing (only shorter). The wings themselves have strengthening ribbing inside them, which makes them quite strong in their own right, and not prone to droop or flex. There are a number of other full-section bulkheads within the fuselage that will enhance the strength of the join, resisting the dreaded cracking of the top fuselage joint due to the weight of the wings over time. The top of the fuselage - the "crew blister" if you like - is a separate part that fits rather neatly on the top of the fuselage, with a large contact surface and stepped joint that should result in a very strong union, further enhancing the rigidity of the join and making cracking seams very unlikely. The assembly didn't even really creak once the bomb bay was installed, despite being only lightly taped together. The fin is integrated into the fuselage mouldings, with a separate rudder that is trapped between a pin and hinge whilst gluing the fuselage halves together, while the elevators have a robust attachment method, due to their quite large size. There are two small bulkheads that slot inside the tail area, which have large tubular rods that protrude from the elevator roots, approximately 3cm apart. The elevator halves are glued together around a socket part, and the elevator then slides over the two pegs and is cemented in place, making another strong joint that should stand the test of time. The elevators themselves are trapped between the two halves of the tail planes while constructing them, so can be glued at any angle, or left loose to attract small fingers to play with them. On the wings, the large flaps can be posed deployed, and the ailerons are trapped between the wing halves when gluing. The interior is slightly less clear at this point, as it's initially difficult to see where some of the sections go without instructions, and the small parts remain even more tricky to identify unless you know the internals of the beast intimately. The main crew area around the pilots is fully floored, and has detailed bulkheads in front of the pilots and behind the upper turret, with instrument panel backs, plus radio gear moulded in, as well as the navigator's table toward the rear. The pilots armoured seats are well depicted, although the armoured backs do have a little sink-marking, which may have been fixed by the time the final release is with us. If not, a swipe with a sanding stick, or some filler will quickly fix that, unless the seat covers it completely. The inside of the fuselage is covered in rib-work from front to rear, although there are a large number of ejector pin marks to be removed, which despite being a tiresome task, is hardly something you could reasonably complain about, as without them, the parts couldn't be removed from the moulds. Hopefully, a great many of them either won't be seen, or will be hidden by equipment that is added during the build. The clear parts are all on one sprue, and there are a lot of them, as evidenced by the size of the sprue, which has a number of legs to support and protect the delicate parts until you're ready to cut them from the sprues. The parts are beautifully clear, and are also commendably thin, allowing a good view into the interior if kept that way. The nose glazing on the later marks was almost frameless, and it looks just great on the sprues, almost as if it has already had a dip in kleer/Future, it's that glossy. An interesting point is that the turrets have been very cleverly designed so the glazing can be added pane-by-pane. The top turret has a styrene frame to which the individual panels are added, and the Sperry ball-turret is made up from a clear and grey styrene two-part central cylinder, with clear outer parts making up the ball. It is supplied with the Y-shaped yolk that allows it to rotate, and although I've not looked too closely at those parts yet, looks like it can be made to stay mobile after building. The waist guns are staggered, and have beautifully clear glazing with ports for their guns that should afford a good view of the interior, and the cheek guns are separately glazed into the framework that is moulded into the fuselage. The prominent chin turret is fitted into the underside of the bomb aimer's area, and Norden bombsight is included. Finally, the Cheyenne tail turret has a large curved gun shield, through which the two .50cal Brownings project, with their ammo feeds snaking away to the large boxes that make the passageway behind the gunner so cramped. The gunner's glazing is again remarkably clear, and his sight is visible through the glazing. The curved rear section of the glazing was bullet resistant, so should be treated with a thin wash of greenish clear paint to depict the hue apparent in this type of glass. A bike-style seat is supplied to save the gunner's knees, which would become quite cramped during extended engagements, especially when taking the cold into account. It appears that some of the ammo boxes were constructed of plywood, while others were made from sheet metal with strengthening straps riveted around corners and across the large surfaces. It would add some visual interest if you were to depict them as wood using either decals or the oil-over-beige technique. The .50cals are supplied as breech parts with slide-moulded slots for the barrels, which are also slide-moulded to give them a hollow barrel, and they can also be added later - a boon to the clumsy modeller! I couldn't see the intimidating flash-suppressors for the rear gunner's guns, but hopefully they are in the sprues somewhere too. If not, a piece of suitably sized and shaped tube would do the job instead. Moving out to the wings, the internal structure that I mentioned earlier takes a great deal of the flex out of the wings, which should allay any concerns about droop over time. The engine nacelles are also moulded into the wings a far forward as the firewall, where the cowling is added, the parts for which are included on four identical sprues that also contain parts for the wheels, oxygen bottles, guns and crew seats. The cowling is a single part with the cooling flaps moulded to a ring with spokes joining a central hollow cylinder. There are two extra cooling-flap rings on the other sprues that only have one section with no flaps, rather than the two on the other parts. It looks like you'll have two left over for the parts bin. Each engine is built as a layercake of parts, starting with the cooling-flap ring, onto which a circular radial "blanking plate" is fixed, which gives the impression of the rear bank of cylinders, and is then covered with the front cylinder bank, which is nicely done, with very fine cooling fin detail. You could argue that the fin detail should be a little more aggressive, but that is down to personal taste. On top of that the connector rods are installed, terminating at the cylinder heads, which are topped off by another linked part. The magneto bell-housing is then inserted through the centre of the assembly, trapping it all in place. Each part is correctly located by a raised pin running the length of the centre tube, so you cannot install them at the wrong orientation without some serious effort. The wiring ring is moulded to the bell-housing, but you will need to put the wires in yourself to finish the job before adding the cowling, which is also keyed to fit only one way. The bell housing is a little simplified, missing some bolts around its edge, but once the props are on, most people won't notice. I'm sure that some lovely looking resin engines will be forthcoming from the usual aftermarket suspects in due course anyway, if this sort of thing is your bag. The landing gear bays are positioned in the inboard engine pods, which requires the turbo-superchargers to be relocated further back in the lower nacelle, with large pipes feeding them from the outboard side of the nacelle. This section of the nacelle is supplied as an insert, as it quite deeply recessed within the nacelle, and here fit is superb. The gear bay is a separate box within the nacelle, and has ribwork, ducting and hoses moulded into its 6-part assembly. It is surprisingly effective, and fits beautifully into the nacelle, even when only roughly prepared and held together with tape. The turbo-superchargers fit into recesses in the nacelles, and have lots of detail to make them stand out, plus a central boss for the little intake/outlet (I don't know which) that has a slide-moulded hollow lip. A reservoir of some sort is included on each nacelle sprue, as well as other parts that look suitable to be used to detail up the bay and engine area, but I'm not qualified to pick them all out off the top of my head. Moving to the gear legs, it's always a worry for an aircraft model of this size, and modellers wonder whether the landing gear will stand the test of time. The gear on this kit is all styrene, and each main leg is moulded as a single part with sharp edges and not even a hint of sink marks anywhere, which is really rather impressive and quite a surprise. Also surprising is the apparent strength of the parts, which resist flexing manfully, although I'm not the strongest modeller you ever did see. The long retraction jacks are all there on the gear sprues, and as you'd expect the contents of the sprues are all handed where appropriate, as noted in the picture caption. The tyres are styrene, and as you'd are traditionally split in halves, with separate hubs for each side. The tread pattern is diamond shaped and a little soft near the join, but the hub detail is excellent, and includes the brake hose on the outer hub. Whether the diamond tread is appropriate for your chosen subject will require a little research, as a great many period photos I've seen on the 'net show a circumferential tread pattern, although diamond tread is also seen, especially on restored examples. The bomb bay, with its structural formers backing the forward and aft bulkheads has a pair of side panels that affix to the fuselage sides using friction fit plugs, and effectively closes off the wing root from view. A false roof is installed at the top of the bomb bay, just as in the real thing, as the life rafts are stored in the small gap there. The bomb ladders fit in a V-shaped profile long the central rail, and you are supplied with ten 500lb bombs, which come in halves, and have some finely moulded two-part stabilising fins for the rear, and fuse propellers for the nose. The bay doors are broken down as the real thing, and have surface detail on both sides, with large hinges on the outboard edges, which mesh with the edge of the bay on the fuselage halves. The interior carries the full length of the fuselage in this kit, which is an improvement over the earlier B-25s, and you get a basic walkway through the full 22m or 74 feet of the aircraft. The navigator's station aft of the bulkhead is there, as is the walkway around the ventral ball-turret, and then a simple plank that goes past the waist gunners' positions, and through three bulkheads into the tail gunner's cramped compartment. As mentioned earlier, there are a lot of ejector pin marks to remove, but what you have is a solid basis for scratch-building the remainder of the detail if you are minded to. Markings At this stage I have no idea of what markings and schemes HK are planning, but hope to update this section as and when the details are announced. Needless to say, it's most likely to be olive drab over grey, bare metal (including the one on the boxtop), or some combination of the two. Either way, it will look spectacular hung on the wall. HK supplied only the basic decals for the B-25s, so we shall hope that a full set will be provided for this one, as it is an important release. If not, some enterprising folks will doubtless be along to oblige soon after launch. Conclusion Well, this is definitely the biggest styrene kit I've seen, and during the process of test-fitting and establishing what goes where, I've become very fond of it. If the parts fit together as well as they have done using tape, it should be a pretty easy build, thanks to some quite impressive plastic engineering. The bomb-load is a handy addition to any bomber kit, allowing you to portray your model loaded with a complement of bombs ready to go on a mission - it's raison d'être. I'm very pleased with the stand, although I'd have liked to see it moulded in ABS for extra strength, and with metal pins, but who knows what the plans for the final issue will be. I'm fairly certain (as far as you can be) that someone will produce a new, stronger stand for the kit, as it would be rude not to. Equally, metal landing gear will be arriving pretty soon, even though I'm not sure it's needed, due to the strength of the kit parts. Whatever level of detail you choose to finish your B-17 to, you can guarantee that it will be the centre of attention wherever it is displayed, and even if you store it with the wings off in the loft, you'll be visiting it quite frequently, just to have another look at this huge beast of an aircraft. Fortunately for me, my son has already volunteered to have the finished model hanging on his bedroom wall, although whether I'll get it finished in time before he leaves home is another matter. My build output seems to have dropped below glacial at present, sadly. Yes - it's a lot of money to lay out, but you get an incredible kit for the money. Detail, fit and sheer awesome size of the mouldings makes it good value in my eyes, and I see it making its way into many a stash once it is available on the open market. Will I build it? Oh yes! Very highly recommended. Review sample is courtesy of
  20. I've always seen the Pan Am Boeing 747 as THE classic airliner. However I'm not that aware of all the small diferences between the various subversions of the 747, so I'm not sure which version to buy if I want to build a Pan Am plane. I know it has to be an earlier version, but which one? I've been looking at the REVELL 1/144 04863 SPACE SHUTTLE & BOEING 747 as it is a 747-121 (I think). Could that be used? Cheers and thanks in advance Hans J
  21. Boeing 737 Wedgetail Airborne Early Warning & Command version of the veritable 737, pics thanks to Steve.
  22. Hi everybody, I'm going to try a build log. It will be slow but hopefully it will get there. The subject is Airfix's 1/44 Boeing model 314 Clipper, a fine example from the golden age of luxurious, noisy and vibration-rich air travel. All detail is raised lines but in this scale I think that works better, though repairs will be tricky. I intend to omit the glass and use Krystal Klear instead to save masking. The 1989 boxing from ebay looks complete, here's the sprue shot, though actual sprues are few and far between and the breakages and escape attempts have already started. My first dilemma is which scheme? Airfix include NC18605 "Dixie Clipper" in pre-war silver or G-AGCA "Berwick" though both paint schemes are full of known errors (Berwick should be DSG not Dark Earth which also makes her look fat). A USN blue Dixie would (I think) be possible with the decals if I can find a profile. Opinions welcomed, I'm honestly stumped which to do. I've also just spent ten minutes trying to find the 'missing' central tail fin... Cheers John
  23. LiftHere! is to release a 1/72nd Boeing Skyfox resin kit - ref. LHM042 Source: https://lifthereserbia.wordpress.com/2017/12/11/near-future-kits/ V.P.
  24. Hi guys! I finished this Boeing 747-200 plastic kit from revell and made a video about my experiences with it. It's not a great kit, but I feel it turned out ok - let me know what you think! Thanks
  25. British Airtours Boeing 707-420 pics by Graeme H
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