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  1. The X-1 glides/rockets to its completion and I'm stuck most of the time at home due to Covid-19 restrictions. At least it provides a chance for more bench relaxation. The next kits was designed (the molds) around the time I was born and I got it back when I started building again and was collecting 'simple'/'cheap' kits to horn my skills. Its' the venerable Revell 1/48 Ju-87D Stuka - and it sure reminds me of my building days as a kid. This will be build OOB with zero (well minimal) AMS. Clear parts are already in future and next time I'm at the bench will start cutting some plastic. Ran
  2. Announced some time ago and confirmed as a new tool http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234973045-revell-2015/?p=1877100 . The Revell's BAe Hawk T.Mk.1 Hawk "Red Arrows" - ref.04921 Source: http://www.ipmsdeutschland.de/Flugzeuge/Wiegmann/Rev_BAe_Hawk_Red_Arrows_72/Rev_04921_Hawk_Red_Arrows.html Test build V.P.
  3. This is my recently completed 1:24 scale panel van (the one with the jägermeister box art). This kit has a number of firsts for me- -The first non-aeroplane kit I've ever built -The first non military kit I've ever built -And the first kit I've ever uploaded on Britmodeller All in all it I think it went rather well, with the exception of the doors that didn't seem to fit (the drivers door was too tight and the passenger door left a huge gap along the back of the door). However as I am the owner of a old beetle I can confirm that the doors never close quite right so it could have been intentional on revell's part.
  4. Some years ago I started a build of this but after a dramatic tumble from the shelf I abandoned the whole thing. Now however, with a brand new purchase of the kit (plus a good few spares from the old build) I am all ready to start again. First of all I decided to go for the decoration of the stern. I had to get myself a size 20/0 brush and an optivisor but I am quite pleased with the results so far. 20171022_223634 by markleecarter, on Flickr I am going to redo the lettering however but I think this shows just how good the detailing is on this little model. I did have to sand off the giant bosses where the lanterns attach and you can still make them out a bit but in real life, and once the lanterns are attached it shouldn't show up too much.
  5. Lockdown has me back from uni, with vast amounts of time on my hands. So, time to dabble back into the world of modelling for the first time in a few years. This Typhoon has been sat on the shelf for a while, with decals to make the 2015 dispay jet flown by Jonny Dowen from 29sqn. Hopefully shall post this as the kit unfolds, so you can see the trials and tribuations of trying to remember how to do this... Step 1, cockpit and seat, with a first crack with an Eduard Zoom set, with a pilot currently undergoing some hefty plastic sugery
  6. My first airliner kit I attempted to build was the A321 Austrian Airlines 2000 millennium. The kit after being built was scrapped due to my poor construction skills, prior to decals being added which I saved. I now have the zvezda kit of the A321. Does this kit have the correct engines for the Austrian 2000 decals? Thanks for the help.
  7. This is the old Revell 1/96 Saturn V, assembled using pieces from two second-hand (partially built) 25th anniversary and 40th anniversary kits, with a RealSpace Block II Command/Service Module, Boost Protective Cover and batted F-1 engines. I also used New Ware's detail kit and a bit of scratch-built detail to produce a rendering of the AS-506 that took Apollo 11 to the moon. Here's a four-quadrant view of the completed model: The upper part in isolation: The area around the S-IVB aft interstage: And the S-II aft interstage: RealSpace provide a vacuum shaped Boost Protective Cover to go with their CSM. I punched out the commander and pilot windows, and added styrene rod to the kit Launch Escape Tower to simulate the wire harness. Build log for this section is at https://oikofuge.com/realspace-196-apollo-csm-part-3/ I used New Ware's scimitar antennae and hatch cover to detail RealSpace's CSM, added kit parts for thruster quads and S-band antenna, BareMetal Foil for bright metal areas, and Space Model Systems decals. Build log for this section starts at https://oikofuge.com/realspace-196-apollo-csm-part-1/ I painted over the transparent section in the kit SLA, and detailed with New Ware photoetch and styrene strip, correcting New Ware's black "-Y" decal on the instrument unit to a "+Y". Build log for this section is at https://oikofuge.com/revell-196-saturn-v-sla-iu/ The S-IVB was detailed with New Ware, replacing multiple fairings and the service tunnel: Here it is with the instrument unit and lower part of the SLA attached: Build log for this stage is at https://oikofuge.com/revell-1-96-saturn-v-s-ivb/ The log for its aft interstage is at https://oikofuge.com/revell-1-96-saturn-v-s-ivb-aft-interstage/ The kit S-II required extensive modification, with New Ware fairings, instrument packages on the thrust structure and a heatshield. I also needed to trim back the kit's stringers, remove all the kit's misplaced fairing locators from the aft skirt, add a layer of insulation to the forward skirt using styrene sheet, and construct the support structure for the heatshield using 0.5mm brass rod. I also moved the LOX vent pipes to their correct position, and corrected the number of gores in the upper tank dome. The kit provides the aft interstage for the S-II with 8 ullage motors, but AS-506 had only four, so the locators for the kit motors had to be removed, stringers repaired, and four New Ware motors added. I added the white flight separation joints above and below the S-II aft interstage by wrapping 0.5mm x 1.5mm styrene strip edgeways around the locating flanges at the base of the S-II and the interstage. Build log for this stage starts at https://oikofuge.com/revell-1-96-saturn-v-s-ii-stage-1/ Build log for its aft interstage is at https://oikofuge.com/revell-1-96-saturn-v-s-ii-aft-interstage/ The rear part of the S-IC needed extensive modification. The kit is based on the SA 500F, which had multiple air scoops around its aft end. Almost all of these had disappeared by the time SA-506 was launched, so New Ware provides photoetch/resin replacement parts for the engine fairings and heatshield. The kit F-1 engines are provide bare, but the real engines were covered with batted insulation - I used RealSpace's resin replacements, with a mixture of chrome paint and Bare-Metal Foil to simulate the different reflective properties of the batting. New Ware's resin heatshield is undetailed beyond the simple outlines of the tiles, so I printed up custom decals to provide rivet and other detail. I also scratch-built lunate heatshields to fill the engine fairing voids, with their own custom decals - both the kit and New Ware provide only rectangular heatshields in this area. For the S-IC service tunnels, New Ware provides mutiple photoetch plates to be wrapped around the kit parts. The contour of the kit parts is wrong, and I instead applied New Ware's photoetch to appropriate lengths of 7mm half-cylindrical styrene rod. I also carved out slots in the kit aft skirt to insert New Ware's resin hold-down posts. I made an error with this stage by not checking the length and fit of the service tunnels. The kit version of this stage is too long by close to an inch (the extra length mainly in the forward tank and intertank structure), and I had assembled it before realizing this. New Ware's tunnels are approximately the correct length to scale, and so don't cover the correct proportions of the overscale stage. Sigh. Build log for this stage starts at https://oikofuge.com/revell-1-96-saturn-v-s-ic-stage-part-1/ The kit's representation of the Lunar Module is wrong in multiple ways, and would need to be rebuilt almost entirely for accuracy. I contented myself by fixing the representation of the external tank strut on the left side, adding a few details with styrene, and marking it up with the insulation patterns of Apollo 11's LM5. A lot of extra detail (antennae, docking target, plume deflectors) could easily have been added, but it would have been like applying lipstick to a pig, and in any case the LM is invisible in the assembled Saturn V - so I didn't bother. Build log for this part is at https://oikofuge.com/revell-1-96-saturn-v-lunar-module/ As a final note, ALL the kit stages are misaligned with each other in rotation, so all the locating lugs between stages had to be relocated to produce the correct alignments. Sorry about the image-heavy presentation, but there are a lot of parts to this kit!
  8. So time to start WIP project during this lockdown period. So this kit has been waiting for some time in my stash. I bought this from nice small Berlin shop called Mario's Modellbaustudio, that was just some hundred meters from my old Berlin address. I recommend to visit there when possible. FW-200 was designed to be land-plane for Atlantic routes for Deutche Lufthansa. Those routes were at that for seaplanes and short period Condor was most advanced passenger plane in the world. First flight was done 27th of July 1937. These civil variants were used by Deutche Lufthansa, Syndicato Condor and DDL from Denmark. Condor made last scheduled Deutche Lufthansa flight from Berlin to Barcelona when war was ending. There were other orders from other airline companies too, but those were never delivered. Special modified condor also made nonstop flight from Berlin to New York that took 24h 56 min. Also flight to Tokyo was performed. First prototype was equipped with 875 hp Pratt & Whitney Hornet radial engines and later ones BMW 132G-1 radials. BMW was licence version of Hornet. Then of course normal pictures what is inside of box. (sorry poor quality of photos, I will use proper camera for next ones.) Box itself: And what you can see when open the box. Fuselage halfs. No complains related to quality. Wing halfs for one wing And small parts. Wheel wells are very simplified same as cockpit. And there is nothing for passenger area, so let see what I will do for that. Engines might also need some extra work. And clear parts. Decals look in this picture better than those in reality are. So I need to get replacement ones. Looks that I need to get Print Scale sheet for this. So let see what will come from this.
  9. Good evening everyone, I thought it might be worth shifting my attempt at the RAF Centenary Groupbuild to the WIP area, seeing as I never had chance of meeting the deadline! (The build can be found by clicking here) ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- So, To bring everyone up to speed: -I plan to build a representation of the Panavia Tornado ZA326 in its iconic raspberry ripple colours. I'll be using the 1:32 Tornado GR1 kit from Revell and an abundance of plasticard, to model her with a plethora of panels open (nose, side electronics bays, ground equipment connection points, the spine, and maybe even an open engine bay!) Here are a few select images which visually describe the process so far: (Note that the paintwork on bits and bobs has been tidied up since these images were taken) What's the plan of action going forward, then? -Nose electronics bay -Nose hinge and detailing -Cockpit wiring -Fuselage panels and internal gubbins -Fuselage rescribing (+rivets, should they be required) -Engine bay (there might be a bit of a surprise in that regard, stay tuned!) -Wings -Other (landing gear, etc) It will be a slow (I've got a summer placement in a research lab at my university) but hopefully steady project. As for references that I'll be using: The good General's own Tornado build The Tornado SIG The ZA326 group's Flickr Stay tuned for more! Best wishes, Sam
  10. HI, made a start on the FGR4 at last. Bit of a catch up again as well down the line with this build but I am building seek and destroy from xtradecals with eduard cockpit. Was going to be doing my Hasegawa Kittyhawk mk I diorama but im a sucker for punishment so my 3rd revell build on the bounce it is IMG_20200125_182603 by Rob Jones, on Flickr
  11. I don't normally do military vehicles. I enjoyed this especially the detail in the engine and chassis. Unfortunately I think I must have bent it when constructing as certain bits didn't really line up!!
  12. It's done boys, the beast is finally slain!!! This kit....where do I begin? A subject I wanted to build a kit of the moment I saw (and heard) it for the first time. An incredible car, that looks amazing and sounds amazing. I did the kit in the markings of the #67 car, driven by Brits Andy Priaulx, Harry Tinknell and Brazilian Pipo Deraini. On it's debut at the 2017 24 Hours of Le Mans the car finished 2nd in the GT Pro class and won the 6 Hours of Silverstone that season (see below). The Revell kit.......is a mixed bag. It's not a bad kit, but for a modern kit that was only released 18 months ago, it's disappointing. It has good cockpit detail, and good engine detail....but you can't see any of it. The kit decals are excellent with great colour density and printing, but then the fit of many of the parts is somewhere between vague and poor. The rear end doesn't want to go together. I had to cut the windscreen wiper off to fit the windscreen.... As for my build of it, it was a battle. I made many mistakes, and my car building skills weren't up to the job in places especially masking and painting a complex scheme on a complex model. But having said that, this is one of the best 4 foot models I have ever made. I turn around and look at it in the cabinet and it looks amazing. When I handle it up close I see a dozen or more little mistakes that can't be covered up with weathering! I had my sons help with this, he did some of the interior painting and construction and a lot of the decalling. Here we are together at the 2017 Six Hours of Silverstone. And here he is now. How did he get so big in under 3 years???? Glad to have finished it, now 5 finished kits this year! I would also like to try the Tamiya Ford GT to see how they have gone about the kit (ie, how to do it better/properly) and paint it in a much simpler "civvie" scheme.
  13. Hello all, This is the sister build to my Dodge Charger for the Film, Fictional and Speculative Group Build in the shape of the Ford Mustang GT Fastback belonging to the hero of the film Bullitt: Cheers, Mark.
  14. I thought I would start her with my first post, a rather challenging conversion of Revell's 1:24 London Bus into the Knight Bus from the Harry Potter film the Prisoner of Azkaban. following some fairly in-depth research I decided that a conversion using two kits should be possible, along the way some conversion would also be necessary to change the bus from an AEC Routmaster RML to the older AEC Regent III on which the bus in the film is based ( the book illustrations do show a Triple-Decker Routmaster, but I wanted this to be a copy of the bus seen in the film Work will include shortening the body by removing the 'central bay' to make a standard wheelbase Routemaster Modifying the top deck especially the front and rear sections to accept the new top floor Fitting out the interior with chandelier and berths for sleeping wizards Thanks for watching, any help and advice gratefully received Jim
  15. Revell is to release in 2017-2018 a new tool 1/32nd North American P-51D Mustang kit - ref. 03944 Source: http://www.kitreviewsonline.de/revell-neuheiten-fuer-das-jahr-2017/ V.P.
  16. Hey there! Yet another one Revell Airbus here. Things are gonna happen really slow not only because i'm retarded, but also because all the additional parts are travelling across the world with the sloooow post services. Particulary the wings with the deployed flaps and slats were ordered at the contrails in the middle of november (expecting delivery any day now) and the wonderful Bearbus decal (D-AKNO former livery that always made me smile some days in the UUWW) ordered at the end of september, well is considered lost and since Gaston from Nazca decals is really rare to give a reply (1 out of 3 letters) i have no clue what time will i get it. The kit surprised me being so small after working with rather big birds like B767-300 and A330-300. Following that i was further surprised to see separate nav lights of clear plastic that A330 didn't have. Hmm. But anyway the kit proved to be nice and easy so far. Since the wings are apparently on hold i decided to start with the rest of the fuselage and engines to be on the safe side. You might have already guessed it would be gear down and flaps full config for the final approach (oh, fingers crossed) Painting engines' parts with silver the straaangest thing in the nose part and this is how the assembly looks now, some parts just clicked in together Well yet to come are the stab wing, landing gear, and today i'm going to the paint shop to try to get some correct colours ...And patient waiting for the wings and decals. Steve.
  17. I bought this titchy little kit very cheaply from eBay, I think the postage was more than the kit. It was a good thing it was cheap because when I opened the box and examined the sprues my first reaction was Uurghh and my second reaction was not safe for this forum. I did a bit of research and it showed that this kit was first released by Revell in 1964 and reboxed in 1994 under the Matchbox branding and the age shows. It might have been state of the art in 1964 but it was a bit grim for 1994 and unacceptable for 2020. I decided I quite fancied a quick little challenge and if it was unbuildable then I hadnt lost much. I wanted to build this OOB even though the wheels and undercarriage really should have hit the bin straight off. The fit of the parts was terrible nothing had a straight part to part joint and the wing lower section was warped having a dihedral a Vought Corsair would have been proud of. Perhaps the worst were the three sections of the engine cowling which needed a fair bit of filing to get straight and lots of tiny pieces of sprue and plastikard to make fit. The best fitting parts were the fuselage aft of the cockpit which went together fine and the horizontal tail planes fitted with only a smudge of filler to fill the joints. I had to scratchbuild from Plastikard a wheel well floor and sides as the kit had nothing internally other than a seat and a one piece pilot. The panel detail was very crude with rivets about the scale size of a Melon and panels as thick as a plank but most of it was turned into plastic dust when filing to fit so I didnt get too bothered with it. I didnt have any Grey Blue paint for the undersides so mixed up some Tamiya Blue, White and Grey, it didnt go too well coming out a lot bluer when dry than I expected the photos do make it worse than it actually is but its still more a cornflower blue than the grey with a blue tint I was looking for. Topsides were painted with Vallejo 71.406 Light Slate Grey which I think matches the Soviet Grey/Green very well. The pilot was painted with Citadel paint. Weathering which I am useless at was Flory grime wash with a touch of gloss varnish to high light the stains. The transfers were very old fashioned and looked like they were printed on Fablon. They were very tough didnt want to settle on the surface and seemed to shrug off the first 5 or 6 coats of Humbrol Decalfix. Before going to bed I absolutely drenched them with Decalfix and in the morning they seemed to have setled down. I thought at one point I was going to have to attack them with something stronger than Decalfix like Acetone or neat Acetic Acid. The kit had two alternative slogans for the side of the fuselage and I decided one of each wish I knew what they said. The wing machine gun barrels were replaced with Albion Alloys aluminium tube, I meant to do the same with the engine mounted guns but didnt dare attack the plastic because I was worried about the rather fragile cowling cracking. The Aldis sight is a piece of brass tube I found in my bits box and if the tiny pilot ever tried to use it in combat he would be shooting way off line. The pitot tube is a brass pin. Despite my initial worries it has turned out okay for a quick and dirty build. P1000899 by Stuart, on Flickr P1000898 by Stuart, on Flickr P1000895 by Stuart, on Flickr P1000894 by Stuart, on Flickr P1000892 by Stuart, on Flickr P1000885 by Stuart, on Flickr P1000901 by Stuart, on Flickr
  18. I am currently planning/collecting models/parts for building 3 (make that 6 now) Revell 747s. The first is a 747-400 in Thai Air livery, second a 747-600 conversion in Gulf Air Livery and thirdly a 747-8i in an as yet undecided scheme. Here's my first question, should I fill the panel lines as they are quite obviously too deep? I have on the go... 1. 747-400 Thai Air 2. 747-600 BOAC 3. 747-8i Air NZ 4. 747-8i Gulf Air 5. 747-400Y British Airways Landor 6. 747-Xstrech Virgin Atlantic And a hankering for more
  19. Hi Guys Two new sets now available, the brass undercarriage set is the first set I have done in 1/72 scale, I do have plans for one or two others in the future. There is only a limited quantity of the brass set at the moment as these were delivered yesterday, and the brass casters have closed like most companies. Resin casting is not effected as much as long as we have materials available. see the following links https://aerocraftmodels.bigcartel.com/product/dhc-6-twin-otter https://aerocraftmodels.bigcartel.com/product/dhc-6-twin-otter-alternative-wheels Stay safe and enjoy your modelling, Ali
  20. I built this kit as best I could to resemble Hakan Andersson’s 1973 works bike; the ‘twin shock’ version he rode in the first two rounds before the monoshock version replaced it. My web page: Revell 1/12th scale 250cc Yamaha MX bike Example photo: It contains several inaccuracies including the front brake mechanism being backwards.
  21. I have read numerous build threads here and elsewhere on the Revell Tornado kits, but none of them seem to show how perfect (or at least reasonable) inner intake seams were achieved, nor do they explain how. Having started my F.3 I came to the conclusion that intake covers would best be fitted to it, but with another three GR.1/4s and an IDS in the stash I would like to know if - and how - it is possible to get rid of those nasty seams. So, did any of you guys ever succeed in eliminating the intake seams? TIA, Jens
  22. Hi all, I should call this 'Quarantine Queen' as it's the first of several builds I'll be finishing while on enforced leave This is by some distance the most colourful aircraft I've modelled. When I first saw the scheme I thought it was a whiff It was built for the Mustang Single Type Group Build, which you really should check out especially if you like the lines of this beautiful aircraft. The kit is the incredibly cheap Revell 1/32 P-51D which represents an early P-51D-5 without the tail fillet. Mine cost under £30 which is simply amazing value for what you get. To convert it to the later P-51K, I added a resin correction set from eBay which replaced the nose cowling, tail fillet and rudder, ailerons, stabiliser, elevators and wing flaps. This cost just $15 so I could afford not to use all of it! I also added Barracuda wheels, Squadron vacform Dallas canopy and Lifelike Decals. All together it cost about half the Tamiya kit price. The real Mrs Bonnie was a Dallas-built P-51K but at some point was retrofitted with the Hamilton Standard propeller, so the kit one was used. Paint was all lacquers: MRP for the interior and stripes, Alclad for the natural metal, and Gunze Mr Metal Color for the wings. The red was Zero Paints lacquer. The HF radio antenna was EZ-Line and the canopy was drilled to admit the line. Here's the real Mrs Bonnie which was the mount of the 348 FG deputy wing commander Lt Col Bill Dunham. Finally, here's the build thread if you want some tips on how to build /convert the Revell kit into a later Mustang. Thanks for looking, and don't forget to check out the Mustang STGB (linked above!) All the best and stay well, Alan
  23. Harrier GR.1 50 Years (05690) 1:32 Revell The Harrier began life as a Hawker Siddeley product, and was the first aircraft capable of Short/Vertical Take-Off and Landing (S/VTOL) to reach service, and until its eventual replacement the F-35 Lightning II began flying it was pretty much the only aircraft that was actually capable of carrying out the task it was designed for, although the Harrier was very good at its job unlike other pretenders. We’re excluding rotary wing aircraft just in case the pedant in you was awakening. The GR.1 was the first to reach service with RAF and as the AV-8A in US Marine service as a close air support and reconnaissance aircraft, becoming a favourite with pilots despite the relatively high workload imposed on them by the complex controls necessary to maintain attitude and attitude at slower speeds – long before computers were really good enough and available to assist stability at sizes that could be carried by an aircraft. It was replaced by the GR.3 with the Ferranti LRMTS in an extended nose that gave it a funny look (is that blasphemy?). The Harrier II eventually replaced it with composite components and a much improved capability. The Kit This is an old kit – let’s get that out of the way at the beginning. It has raised panel lines as you would expect from its mid-70s heritage, and the detail is also what you’d expect with a pilot figure that is kind of funny-looking to put it politely, although he’s quite photogenic he just seems a bit… wide, especially given the cramped cockpit of a Harrier. The box is a top-opening affair with a nice digital painting of the aircraft on the front, and a golden 50 years strapline below the title, plus a picture of the paints, glue and brush included in this model set. If you’re a “serious” modeller, you’ll probably just toss these in the back of the drawer and keep the brush for weathering or something similarly lacking the requirement for a sharp point. Inside the box are five sprues in Revell’s trademark green/grey styrene, plus a clear canopy, a modest-sized decal sheet and instruction booklet that includes the separate health warnings sheet that is bin fodder for most of us. You’ve seen one, you’ve seen them all, and when has a modeller ever skewered themselves with a scalpel? Preposterous! What to say about the detail? It’s adequate and can be upgraded easily enough either by adding scratch-built parts or by obtaining aftermarket, although the majority of sets available in this scale seem to be for the later Trumpeter kits of the AV-8B or Harrier II. If you want an earlier Harrier in this scale however, it’s pretty much the only game in town in injection moulded styrene so you’ll be looking at this kit whether you want to or not. The raised panel lines are restrained and with a decent scriber you could re-scribe the airframe if you are minded to, which is best done before you begin the build. Construction begins with the internal mechanism that allows the exhaust nozzles to operate in unison when completed, with two axles and two control arms clipped together without glue. These are then hidden within the two engine halves that are split into top and bottom, joined by a set of ancillary parts that fit to the top and a two-part intake and engine face that is visible from outside. The curiously broad pilot is next, and he has a front and back part with detailed painting guide pointed out as you go, which is also the case for the simple cockpit floor, ejection seat with moulded-in belts and separate headrest, plus decals for the side consoles. The instrument panel also has a decal, which is a good thing as it’s otherwise devoid of any detail whatsoever. A control column, rudder pedals and the pilot (if you want him) finish off the cockpit, then the canopy is made up from clear glazing, a styrene frame and square block underneath to secure it in the track before you close the model up. To us modern modeller that seems a strange thing to do, but if you paint the canopy and cockpit rear deck beforehand, it should work out with some tape stuck to the clear parts to protect them from paint. The cockpit, engine and rear air-brake bay are glued into the starboard side, then the canopy is trapped in place when the fuselage is closed up around it. The four exhaust nozzles are made up from top and bottom halves trapping two vertical vanes in place in their grooves with a little glue. They’re simple parts, but with some effort can be made more realistic with good references of the correct type and a little putty, styrene or foil. With the fuselage closed up the intake lips are fitted, with a lightly recessed set of blow-in doors depicted on the outside with the option of cutting the top ones out and replacing them with dropped ones that obey the laws of gravity like the real thing. There are a ton of references out there to help you, or you can just leave them be and enjoy some retro-modelling with a heavy dose of nostalgia for me as I built this kit as a youngster and it ended up hung from my ceiling by a few pieces of cotton and a drawing pin. The nozzles are attached to their axle-stubs next, taking care with the glue so they remain moveable, and there are a pair of ribbed heat-protection plates behind the rear nozzles, which are known as the hot nozzles. The wings are simple affairs with a soft approximation of the vortex generators on the upper surface, although if you’re a detailer you’ll need to replace them with some more sharp in-scale parts. The wings are fitted to the fuselage on each side by the usual tab and slot, and each one has a pronounced anhedral like the real thing, and a pair of clear lenses for the wingtip lights. The cockpit coaming and windscreen are also fitted at this stage, and as with the canopy they’re a product of their time, slightly thick and with some mild distortion visible. The tail fin is two parts, as are the elevators although the swash-plates are moulded into the fuselage so moving them from the neutral position would require some surgery. Adding the rear pen-nib fairing with integral puffer jets over the boat-like tail strake finishes off the main airframe, with only the wheels, nose cone, air-brake and weapons left to do. The Harrier has bicycle undercarriage with a single wheel at the nose and dual wheel at the rear. The nose leg is split vertically and traps the two-part wheel in place, with the rear wheel also made of two parts but with the three-part wheels fitted into the stub axles at each side. You can add either two belly strakes to the underside or the two gun packs, as the Harrier needed one or the other to reduce the jetwash wrapping round under the fuselage and reducing lift enough to make it an issue. The outrigger wheels that stop the aircraft from keeling over are next, and again the two-part wheel is trapped between the two-part leg, then fitted into their wells with the curved bay door finishing off at the front. It’s worth mentioning that you can also build your Harrier with the wheels up by omitting the legs and wheels and using different outrigger parts. Now for some stores. Whilst you’re not spoiled for choice due to both the kit’s age and the fact that it’s an early version of the Harrier, you do get enough to fill the wing stations and don’t forget you’ve also had the choice of two gun pods for the underside of the fuselage. On the inner stations there are a pair of additional fuel tanks, which are made from two halves plus an insert for the tail fins and moulded-in pylons. On the outer station are a pair of Matra rocket pods with their pylons moulded in, all of which slot into the underside of the wings on tabs. While your Harrier is on its back, you fit a couple of antennae, a clear nav light, and the air brake with its large retraction jack that fits onto the bay you installed earlier. Flipping the model back over, the two bunny-ear intakes behind the cockpit are added, the nose cone and pitot are popped into the nose cavity, and another clear nav light fits into the spine of the fuselage. The last act is to drop the cover over the engine that allows the viewer a peek inside if you lay off the glue. Markings There are two decal options provided on the sheet, and it’s nostalgia time again with grey/green camouflage over light blue and big bright roundels under the wing, just like the diecast Harrier I had as a kid. There are some scrap diagrams showing the stores and their stencils, with their locations shown as dotted lines on the main drawings so that they don’t obscure the view of the roundels and codes. From the box you can build one of the following: No.3 Squadron, RAF, Wildenrath, Germany, August 1974 No.20 Squadron, RAF, Wildenrath, Germany, August 1971 Decals are by Cartograf, which is a guarantee of good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin matt carrier film cut close to the printed areas. The instrument panel decals don’t have a coloured background, so you’ll need to paint the panels a background colour before use. Conclusion It’s an old kit but it checks out. If you set your expectations accordingly and either leave out the pilot or replace him with something a little more realistic, a decent model can result. Sadly, the kit I built as a kid went to landfill many years ago but its nice to see it again. Recommended. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  24. Here is my finished Boeing 777-236(ER) which has been converted using the Revell B777-300(ER) kit. I opted for the British Airways livery and G-VIIB as it was a regular site for me when I used to work at LGW. I have converted this kit, and a full WIP can be found by following the link which is below. This was my first attempt at a conversion and when I had made the cuts and ended up with 3 pieces of fuselage I found it hard to imagine an end result. I followed some excellent advice given to me and persevered with it. The Revell kit is a nice build and goes together really well. The engines are the GE90-94s from BraZ as are the wingtips. The decals are from RichW and they have gone on brilliantly as well as the AA windows. The paints used were Revell 04 White Gloss for the upper fuselage (I opted for this due to an issue with spraying), Halfords Fiat Capri Blue for the lower fuselage and nacelles, Halfords Racking Grey for the wings and Revell 374 for the coroguard. The metals and greys are mix of Revell Aqua colours. This was my first time really masking off a demarcation line, although in principal it seems easy enough, but I’m too set on wanting it perfect. I used Tamiya flex tape for the tapered ends and thicker Tamiya tape for the straight sections. I think it has turned out ok. I studied several photos of BA’s 777 wings and I found they were all particularly dirty, especially the trailing ends and had an unusual light grey contamination on the upper surfaces. I have tried to replicate this effect on this model. The decals were easy to work with, with each one requiring cutting individually. The authentic airlines decals help to bring it to life. I have enjoyed this build, and it has encouraged me to do more conversions. In fact I am planning a B737-700 and B777-200(ER) in United and BA Landor respectively this year. Thank you for looking and as always any comments and feedback are greatly appreciated. Regards, Alistair
  25. Since I'm new here, I thought I would dig out some old builds of mine to share. I wanted it to be a simple out-of-the-box build, but that changed when I saw the body that was in the box. As far as I can tell, it was based on a prototype road car that was never produced. There are several differences between the kit's body, and the actual car. When Revell released a kit of the C5-R of the 2001 Daytona 24 hour race, I thought I could use that body for the LeMans car, because I prefer the yellow/white scheme better than the all-yellow scheme. Needless to say, that ended up not working either. I ended up using the front and rear of the Daytona kit, cut and spliced onto the Lemans center section (with some scoop modification). Also, the LeMans kit had terrible Revell decals, but the Daytona kit had very nice Cartograph decals, so I used those wherever possible. Anyway, enough talk, on to some photos... Cheers, Corbin
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