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  1. Hi and welcome to the build thread for my third model. Its a Toyota Celica GT four 165. To be more precise i'm building the 1990 safari rally wining car sponsored by rep sol as a challenge to myself to improve the quality of both my decal work and white paint finishes. The kit is made by Aoshima /beemax and so far I have to say my initial impression is that there is lots of fine details and the quality of the mouldings appear to be top notch. I dry assembled a lot of the kit in two sections looking for any potential problems and apart from the roll cage being a potential pain in the neck if the c7r I built as my first project was anything to go by I could only find two areas which I predict could cause me a few headaches. The first is the suspension as I found it akward to line it up correctly however when I finally got it right it seemed like a matter of alignment. The other potential issue is some of the holes are a snug fit before I add paint in to the mix but again i think this wont be to bad of an issue. My current plan is to drill out any of the peg slots if I cant get the parts to fit correctly as a last resort. I am considering drilling out the brake disks with my new pin vice kit they wont be to visible should I goof it up and it will be good practice for when I build my next bike kit should I match the drill bit to the existing indents ? Would I be better of to do this before or after I have painted them in the base coat? Had I thought of it I would of taken some pictures of the sprews before I started but I didn't think to so here are some pictures of the parts I have primed so far. I have had my first covid jab today and its knocked me for six so i haven't been able to get as much done as i would like to have done.
  2. I originally started this build way back when in the Nordic GB, in a time before lockdown! Original thread here. One of three unfinished GBs this year I'm hoping to get finished (alongside the ongoing ones and Interceptor GB I want to start!) I've slowly been making progress mistakes since, and here are a few pics, it's been a bit of a pig getting together. Underside all built up - I did unfortunately snap one of the suspension components (anti-roll bar?). Interior is mainly built up. The kit came with some (very thin) plastic material to use for the seatbelts but I just couldn't get along with it (kept tearing whilst cutting with a knife) and was somewhat translucent when I finally managed to get a strip. The aftermarket kit came with some ribbon but I couldn't get along with that either (and it was too short to match up to the guide sizes in the instructions). In the end I made up some belts out of my staple - a bit of kitchen tin foil, lined each side with masking tape, sliced to size and painted up (white primer over the yellow tape, then a coat of red). The nice thing about the foil method is when bent it does tend to hold it's shape. The kit supplied PE was a bit thin, but I had an aftermarket kit so used those parts instead (original buckles getting a second life in my Renault 5 build), unfortunately when looking back at the zoomed in photos I can see some of my trimming on the buckle ends could have been better! The aftermarket PE also didn't neatly fit onto the mounting points on the belt ends on the roll cage so they're slightly offset. The upper shell also decided to be a complete pain. The forming moulds seemed to have been slightly misaligned leaving some rather nasty seam lines along the bonnet which I cleaned up, however I'm worried the bits around the light fittings might give me some grief later on. They obviously reused the moulds from another version of the kit and blanked out the bonnet vents but left some raise lines around where they were. I smoothed it out but it was still kind of visible when the the undercoat then white coats went on but hopefully less noticeable in the decals are added. My other woes were compounded by me trying to take a 'shortcut' and use a rattle can for the blue and going a bit heavy. I've sanded off the worst of the lumpy bits and will need to give it another coat - though planning on doing that with the airbrush this time! The bleeds aren't too much of an issue - I need to mask up and paint the black roof rails / window surrounds and there's some multi-coloured diagonal strip decals that cover across the door lines. I just hope they line up well! I also noticed (after painting) that the wing mirrors have some rather nasty injection pin marks in them, I'm never sure why but I seem to find this a common issue with car kits which I really can't understand! Anyhow let's hope the rest of the build goes a bit better!
  3. With the Challenger completed, it's time to move onto the next project. First in the set of "cars which share a name-and-not-much-else with cars I've owned", this will be Belkits' Fiesta S2000, which I believe is only the second kit they made. Of course, after I bought this Belkits released their newer Fiesta with the Aston-style grille which would have been much nearer mine, but this will be close enough - after all being a rally car it's never going to be the same as a 1-litre supermini. Unlike @pau10wen's excellent ongoing project, this is going to be pretty much out of the box so I hope you won't try to compare the two too much - I'm not sure mine will withstand that comparison! The first set of pictures are going to seem a bit repetitive as I've only really got the paint on the body so far, so apologies for the plethora of white Fiesta bodies coming up. I had to have a couple of goes at cleaing up the body, as the first application of primer highlighted some bits of seam that I hadn't got sanded right down, plus some other sharp edges. But once that was done, the white plastic had a nice coating of white Halfords primer. After that, it was out with the Appliance White having sanded the body down with 2000grit sandpaper. What with the chassis also being white, and trying to get a good covering inside as well as out not to mention all the other body parts which also needed painting, I near enough used a whole 300ml can on just this car. And the picture barely looks any different. With the paint dried, yesterday I ran some dark grey wash into the panel lines to bring them out a bit using blu-tak as a dam where I didn't want it to run. Hopefully this is as bad as the body will look. And then today I got some 4000 grit Micromesh sheet onto those panel lines to get rid of the overwash. While it's cleaned up the edges quite nicely, unfortunately to my eyes it's also made the panel lines look a bit too dark. I think tomorrow I'll give them a run over with some white gloss paint to dial down the darkness a bit. What with cleaning up the body and washing two lines ont he boot which I missed, I haven't really got started on construction yet. But my feeling is that it will be worth getting the body done first (including decalling) so that the clearcoat gets time to dry, Thanks for looking, even if it has just been white Fiesta after white Fiesta to start this thread.
  4. Dipped in and out of this model over the last six months. Now working at home so took the opportunity to finish. First rally car and first time creating a semi-diorama - quite happy with the results. Decals were pretty fragile so took a while and a few tears here and there! Used the following items for the car: Hasegawa 1:24 Lancia Stratos HF '1977 Safari Rally Eduard 1:24 Red Sabelt harnesses Additional windscreen and side windows Studio 27 detail up set A few images pre-rally with weathering only! Thanks for looking :-)
  5. Hi all, Here's the kit I'm going to build to represent the year of my birth... The Stratos was first introduced in 1974 but 1975 was the first full year it competed in. The car I'm building is the "Red Chardonnet" one on the box art, that won the Tour de Corse Rallye (Corsia Rally) in 1975. Chardonnet was the name of the privateer team and the car was driven by Bernard Darniche with co-driver Alain Mahé. I believe Chardonnet also had a second, blue car that year as well. Hopefully it won't be a difficult build in terms of large decals / complicated colour schemes.
  6. I am doing a Ford Fiesta of the Paraguayan driver Augusto Bestard, which I had the pleasure of seeing in person in Erechim, in the year 2015. He competed for the South American stage of that year. This is the car: He is a Ford Fiesta R5, category below the WRC. I'm going to use a Fiesta WRC from Belkits, it's not the same car because WRCs are different from the R5 in some aspects of the body, but since I live in Brazil, buying a transkit is practically the price of a new kit (and the Two together gets really heavy on price), so sadly he'd been left with those differences. The belkits kit comes with asphalt wheels, so for this I'm going to use the wheels of the Citroen Xsara WRC from Heller, making some small adjustments to fit. It will look like this: Well, paint did all through masks, the decals will be customized, printed by a supplier here from Brazil. First layer was white throughout the car, then masks to red, and finally the black color, below some photos of the process: thanks!!!
  7. My first Diorama, Rally Erechim 2015, Skoda Fabia S2000, driver: Gustavo Saba. Ps: don't have the crew inside the car yet.
  8. Time for the build of a kit that's been sat staring at me from the pile for ages, Tamiya's Toyota TRD86. I picked this up last year at a bargain price online. I'm personally a big fan of the GT86/BRZ twins. They have to be among the very few modern cars I would happily splash my own cash on. Proper RWD drivers cars with skinny tyres and just enough characterful boxer power to entertain. TRD took this concept a little further with their factory spec rally car, the TRD86 which in Gazoo Racing colours is the subject of this kit......... I didn't get any pictures of the sprues but suffice to say this is yet another fine example of Tamiya's art, perfectly moulded with a colourful decal sheet which requires minimal painting of the shell beyond the base colour and even pre-cut self adhesive window masks. So, on with the build. First off, the floor pan received a coat of Halfords grey primer followed by the same company's Toyota Tyrol Silver. Some masking later saw various areas painted in satin black with titanium for heat shields...... Next up, the rear suspension and differential assembly. Very minimal assembly was required before being painted in satin black with the diff cover picked out in silver. The rear brakes were then painted in various metallic shades before being added with poly caps hidden within the hubs....... The exhaust assembly followed, being made from just 2 parts, plus the tips which will be added later in the build...... To finish this first post, the above assemblies were brought together along with the prop shaft....... That's it for now, next up will the be front end.
  9. Ok so as teased and subsequently chosen in my Delta WIP, I bring you the Build/Review of the ModellingMaster Transkit for the Hasegawa Ferrari 328 GTB/GTS. The Transkit is to build the Ferrari 308 GTB Group 4 rally car built by Michelotto and challenged mainly by the Pozzi team through 1981 to 1983. And by other teams and privateer's afterward. The Car was transferred into Group B for 1983 like many other Group 4 cars. However it fell foul of the new classes and regulations, namely the ones regarding wheel width. The new Group B classes regulated the maximum width of the wheel depending on the class on which the car competed in. The classes were divided by the engine capacity. The other regulation change for the new class was that bolt on style over fenders were disallowed unless homologated on all 200 production cars. Seeing as the Ferrari was originally homologated into Group 4 where they were allowed. The base car was the standard 308 which didn't feature them. This didn't really affect the cars too much as like previously stated they couldn't use the wider wheels. The final regulation that hit the Group B version was that the Michelotto built cars featured the new 4v heads. Another thing that was lost. However to compensate the new 308 Quattrovalvole was homologated into Group B to remedy this. History lesson over and now back to the transkit. There are 2 versions available to order from ModellingMaster. Website here: http://modellingmaster.com/lang/ru/ferrari-308-gr4-rally/ Version 1 is the one I have here, which is the red and blue Pioneer livery used mainly on the Monte Carlo and Tour de Corse rallies of 1982. Version 2 is the all blue Pioneer livery which ran on many ERC events, but the one featured on the decal sheet is for the Tour de France Automobile of 1982 and features different wheels to version 1. As usual I've collected many reference pics of the car on the specific event I plan on building. Which to clarify is the 1982 Tour de Corse. I've created a folder on my phone with all the pics I've come across in. I've also downloaded all the build and finished pics from the development build over on Automotive forums here: http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=1069713 To use to supplement the instructions. Right lets start shall we. Firstly this is the box you get. Nice and sturdy and will definitely survive shipping and 'handling' Upon opening the box you are presented with this: I will state that I had a fettle of the body shell when I first got the set a couple years back, and so the thin film in the windows has been removed as well as the braces that help support the rear opening for the engine bay. So lets unpack everything shall we First you're presented with a full colour painting and decal placement chart and the instructions. The instructions themselves are stapled in the corner and fold out like so: Now I'm not a fan of this type of instruction. It takes up a larger than necessary space when laid out flat like I have here. And if the pages are folded over each other then it is quite easy to lose track of which side to go next. I found myself confused a couple of times when reading through, familiarising myself with the build sequence. The final thing that lets the instructions down is that aside from the odd missing arrow, the printer used was clearly running low on ink and as such a lot of the diagrams are hard to follow. A few thorough readings should have everything cleared up however, so it is only a minor grievance. On the back of the instructions is the parts list: Now the only addition I would make to this is to label any multiple parts with the amount you should get in the set. Moving onto the most important bit. The Resin. And boy do you get a lot: Yes it is all resin. Most parts are cast in a white resin that looks very much like plastic, even under close examination. There ae some minimal parts cast in the usual beige stuff. Now I have another couple of ModellingMaster Transkits. The first being all of the classic beige resin and one I brought after this one being all of the white stuff. So obviously I caught the transition lol. The only problem with the white resin is it's hard to distinguish between it and the white plastic of the kit once parts are off the sprues. Not a major problem for me as I will be working in small sections with few parts at a time. But something to keep in mind. So lets take a closer look at what you really get. First up is the clear parts for the rear side windows and lights: Next is some engine parts, rollcage, louvers and the auxiliary lights: Here we have the seats, rear bumper and the main lights in the popped up position (you also get the option to have the lights down): The wheels are copies of the Hasegawa Lancia Stratos wheels with correct Michelin slick racing tyres. You also get a spare with the centre bore and wheel nuts drilled out. In this bag is the bonnet, engine cover, front end, front lamp pod and the rear chassis supports: We also have the body itself and the Chassis: The decals are spread over 2 sheets. Presumably one is common to the 2 versions available. [/url] And up close: Finally you get a nice small fret of Photoetch to compliment the build: So all in all it looks to be a very nice and detailed transkit, and you should end up with a very nice model at the end of it. The Transkit is still available to my knowledge and is made to order. After this build and when money permits I fully intend to purchase the second version. The next update will be the first steps of my build and I'm hoping to continue the step by step approach. I will be taking my time with it as it's my first time using resin on such a large scale. Wish me luck TTFN Ashley.
  10. Right ok so as some of you may know I posted a topic in the discussion area about removing old decals as I wanted to update an old build. Well this is said build. Built a number of years ago and I've never been happy with the result. For a start this is the Revell boxing of the Hasegawa kit. Now whilst this rebox is better that the other Revell reboxes because it includes the metal antenna and the mudflap material, it is also majorly flawed in that the scheme depicted by the decals is for the 1983 Acropolis rally. 1. is doesn't include the Rothmans rally sponser on the plates and 2. the kit is tarmac spec not gravel. I was also not happy with my finish on the kit as the decals needed a bit of fettling on the front curves and inevitably tore and I ended up with areas were the white of the body showed through. In an attempt to incorporate this into the model I proceeded to chip away other areas of the decals to suggest stone chips. But I neglected to weather the kit so the effect wasn't great. Plus still it was in tarmac spec with slick tyres and that just wasn't right. So I've always known I was to eventually strip this kit but I didn't have any interesting decals to update it with. Until recently when I got these: It's a Jolly Club car for the 1983 Tour de Corse but is interesting for not having the typical Jolly Club green and orange striping. So I've proceeded to strip down the kit. I used watered down brake fluid to remove the decals and it also peeled the black enamel paint on the window frames. However is didn't touch the Humbrol spray I used on the body lol. There are a couple of chips in the paint around the front grill but as the plastic is white underneath it isn't noticeable. I'll also be adding the Hasegawa etch set to the kit seeing as Hannants was selling them at £3.20 and I needed 7 sets pmsl. I'll also need to convert the kit to Evo1 spec as Hasegawa only tooled the evo2 engine TTFN Ashley.
  11. Well she's finished save for a couple of small details. WIP here: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234987216-ford-escort-rs-cosworth-group-a-rally/ Kit was Tamiya's Michelin Pilot version with Shunko decals to build the Monte Carlo 1993 car. Slight troubles with the decals mainly on the bumper corners but from a distance it looks good. Will weather in the future when those skills have been honed a bit more. Anywho pics Ahoy: Thanks for looking and to those that have followed the build. As always comments are always welcome lol TTFN Ashley.
  12. So I'm back again with a more focused modelling interest this time so hopefully no more stalled builds haha. Right onwards we go. The kit is as the title suggests: I got this as part of a large collection I brought earlier this year. The kit included thus: yes that is a Riko tube of glue lol and a renaissance WRC transkit for Didier Auriol's 1999 car. The reason for the transkit is as follows: However though I would love to build a WRC spec escort, I don't find Auriol's livery exciting and would much prefer either of the Factory one's. So I decided to treat this elderly kit to a shiny new decals sheet courtesy of Shunko Models: So onto the building process. Firstly I am prepping the body shell for painting and decaling whilst I finish another kit. This is how the body looks before priming, with all the parts attached: The Whaletail spoiler is only held on with bluetac to allow the central support to be glued in place. Of interest is that the no.6 car of Francois Delecour has only one sideview mirror whereas Miki Biasion's no.2 car had both mirrors. Can you tell which I'm building haha. I'm building the Monte Carlo 1993 car as I have a few others to build from this event. (Celica and Lancer, if I could find decals to make Sainz's Delta it would complete the set lol) I have also prepared all the parts that will end up white, like the chassis and rollcage etc. Hopefully progress wont be too slow lol TTFN
  13. Hello, this is my Subaru Impreza 2001 of the pilot Richard Burns, I had problems with the decals, so I had to repaint some of them. At the end it was good.
  14. Tamiya Peugeot 206 WRC, the third kit of year. a little problems, but the end result was very good. thanks!!
  15. My current build so far Still needs a little touching up in places.
  16. Heller Citroen WRC 2010 I thought that as the weather has taken a turn for the worse and that we have rally GB coming up that this car should fit the bill First off is the box shot the decal sheet looks very comprehensive good news aswell i have made a start by cutting out the vents and things like that as they were all moulded in, there a little rough at the moment i would like a little bit of help from some fellow modellers though as i have never done a heller kit before so i dont know how there decals deal with gloss over them also i would like recommendations about the blue paint to use, because i was going to use the same blue i used for the redbull rb6 i finished a while ago but i dont know if that might be a tad dark so im stuck with tamiya ts 51 or ts 15
  17. Happy to say the Lancia 037 is now complete, The kit itself is not bad, however if i do another i will be purchasing the hasegawa, this is still a nicely detailed kit from revell. as some may have seen in the WIP, i have made a few modifications to the kit, Made my own rear grill and air vent grills, Cut the rear bodywork out to have the engine on show and a little engine detail. as always room for improvement. Thanks for looking Sam
  18. Hi Guys! Went a bit Lancia crazy this christmas and from the other half unwrapped 3 Lancia kits: Delta Stratos 037 Currently working on the Stratos which is near completion but i am going to do a WIP on this the 037. Here's a sprue shot of the kit which is a Hasegawa re boxing under Revell. I wont be using the martini decals so if anyone would like to buy them please PM me.
  19. Hi Everyone, Just finished this: the 1/24 Lancia Stratos by Hasegawa. I decided to build it as a kind of privateer car that would compete in the historic rallys and not a scale replica of a certain real rally car. Hope you like, Sam
  20. Ford Fiesta RS WRC 1:32nd scale Airfix In 2011, the FIA brought in a new set of Regulations for the World Rally Championship (WRC). Chief among these changes were the rules regarding the cars themselves. The previous Super 2000 category was scraped and the 2.0 litre engines were replaced by smaller 1.6 ltr units. The power plants would still be turbocharged and restrictors fitted to the air intake system would limit power to around 300 BHP. This power would be transmitted through a permanent 4-wheel drive, 6-speed sequential transmission and would propel the cars from 0-60 in around 3 seconds, on any type of surface. Ford have had a long association with the WRC and with the new rule changes, they chose to enter a new car. The Focus had been their challenger since 1999 and it was a very popular vehicle on the stages. Over the years, it was driven by the likes of Colin McRae, Carlos Sainz, Markko Martin, Marcus Gronholm, Mikko Hirvonen and more recently, Jari-Matti Latvala. For the 2011 season, Ford debuted the Fiesta RS WRC (RS standing for Rallye Sport). The cars were prepared and run by Malcolm Wilsons M-Sport outfit. Aside from the factory team, the cars were also supplied to a good number of smaller outfits and privateer teams. The kit Airfix have produced many car kits in the past and perhaps the most well known are their range of classic 1/32nd scale automobiles. After Hornbys purchase of the company in 2006, Airfix once again returned to this scale, with the release of a couple of modern Sports Car racers (the Aston Martin DBR9 and the Jaguar XKR GT3). They have now entered the WRC arena with the release of the 2012 Ford Fiesta RS WRC rally car. The kit arrives in the now familiar modern Airfix, top opening, red box. Adorning the box lid is a very attractive illustration of Petter Solbergs Fiesta, at speed, on a stage of the Monte Carlo rally. When we open the box, we are greeted with 3 sprues of grey styrene parts, a separately bagged sprue of clear pieces and a one piece body shell, moulded in white. An 8 page instruction sheet is supplied, which features clear assembly steps, with colour call-outs for Humbrol paints, along the way. The paint and decal guide is illustrated with some very nice digital images of the WRC Fiesta. Construction begins with the chassis. The lower monocoque is a 1 piece moulding, which features some conservative detailing on the underside (sump and transmission guards, plus some fine riveting for example).On the reverse side, is attached a single piece interior floor moulding, which has a nice rendition of the pressed metal floor pans, as well as some electrical boxes and cabling, plus the spare wheel well moulded into it. Each corner of the chassis receives its own wheel arch liner and once they are set in place, the suspension parts can be added. These are simple 2 piece assemblies, comprising of a lower wishbone (which has part of the hub moulded in situ), to which you cement a shock absorber/coil spring unit. The sprue attachment points on these shock parts are quite heavy, so some care is required in their removal. To prevent breakage, I would suggest using a fine razor saw, rather than clippers. With the suspenion parts in place, the next order of business is the wheels and tyres. As is common for Airfix automobiles, the tyres are styrene, rather than vinyl or rubber and they are moulded integrally with the O.Z. Rally rims. Of course, one advantage to this, is the fact that you can file flat spots on the bottom of the tyres, to give the car a more convincing sit. The inside sidewall of the tyres have to be added, as they are separate pieces. The tyres themselves, have no tread pattern, being more akin to racing slicks. Not a problem for a dry tarmac stage. If you require something a bit groovy, though, then some replacements will need to be sourced (from the Scalextric range, perhaps). A grooved disc, complete with caliper detail, is added to the inside of each wheel and then they can be fixed to the chassis. We return to the interior for the next few stages. One thing to note here, is that Airfix suggest gloss white for the majority of the interior, where I believe it should in fact be a painted glossy aluminium colour. Once the various parts have been painted, construction can continue. The spare wheel drops into its recess, in the rear of the cabin. The drivers compartment is then kitted out with a good amount of equipment, which includes the drivers foot pedals, co-drivers footrest, fire extinguisher, electronic timing screen, handbrake and sequential gear levers and some electrical cabling. From studying pictures of the real car, about the only thing I can see missing is the mobile phone, which in this scale would be tiny, anyway. The steering column has the digital display added, before fitting the Sparco steering wheel. This assembly is then cemented to the underside of the dashboard. The completed dash has a long tab on the underneath, which fits into a location slot in the tub. The Recaro bucket seats are a little over simplified, detail wise, but Airfix have captured the basic shape, quite well. If you really wanted too, you could build the bolsters up using plastic card or something like Milliput. With the small scale however, I suspect you wont see too much when the model is closed up, anyway. One nice addition, is the inclusion of moulded 5 point harnesses. Once youve painted them blue and picked out the buckles in silver, they simply drop into place in the seat. Very neat. Once that is done, the seats can be fixed in position and then the roll cage can be built up. Airfix have moulded this in 5 parts; an upper, a rear, a single cross brace section and then the 2 sides. To their credit, it is quite finely done, so once again, take care when removing the pieces from the sprue. The instructions correctly point out that the forward A-pillar braces of the cage, should be painted black. Note here though, that the rest of the cage should be the same aluminium shade as the rest of the interior (not white, as Airfix suggest). With the cage in position, you can add the other parts of the harnesses. There are 2 pieces representing the shoulder straps, from their mounting points on the rear cage, going up to the slots in the back of the seats. They have a realistic sag moulded into them and they should look very good, once painted and added. This is a lovely little addition, which I like, very much. With the interior completed, the last job to do on the chassis is the addition of 2 mud/stone guards, which locate at the rear underside and cover the openings for the rear suspension. These can be seen hanging down on the underside of the real thing, when the car is airborne. These parts are a little on the thick side and could be thinned down along their edges, for a more realistic appearance, if so desired. Once they have been fixed in position, we can turn our attention to the body shell. As mentioned previously, Airfix have moulded the shell in one piece and a very nice job they have done of it, too. Theyve really captured the lines of this little beastie, very well. Surface detail is nicely restrained, with finely engraved panel gaps and joins, plus some perfectly acceptable raised bonnet and boot locking pins. Of course, with a one piece body, you have to expect some mould separation lines, but here they are so fine that only the minimal amount of clean up will be required. I have seen far worse on larger kits, with much bigger price tags. One area that is a little lacking, is the paint guide for the body. Airfix do supply those lovely digital images of the car, but they are geared more towards the decal application. You are left to work out yourself, exactly what needs painting. As far as I can work out, the body should be painted in the blue shade first (Airfix suggest Humbrol no14, but that seems maybe a tad too light, to me). Then it should be masked up and the black areas on the roof, running down the A-pillars and onto the bonnet, should be painted. Everything else (save for the smaller details) appears to be supplied on the decal sheet. With the paint applied, the body shell has a number of items to finish it off. There are inserts for the bonnet vents and the front grilles. A pair of door pull handles are added to the interior of the shell, along with the glass panels. Airfix have separated these into 4 sections, for an easier fit (windscreen, 2 lots of side windows and rear screen). The headlight and tail light lenses are also supplied on the clear sprue. The headlamps have their bezels moulded onto the reverse side of the lens. Another thoughtful little touch. You can paint the bezels with silver, on the back side, which should give a nice look to the lenses, when viewed from the front. The rear lenses need tinting with clear red, not forgetting to leave the reversing lamp lens clear, of course. This would seem a good point to fit the shell onto the chassis. The body is quite sturdy with not a lot of give in it. That combined with the complex shape and the bulky interior, makes me think that it could be quite tricky to persuade the shell into place. Once fixed, the smaller, more fragile items can be attached. The roof has 2 vents to be added. At the rear, the 2 piece spoiler needs painting black and then fixing to the tailgate. The final items are the wipers, the door mirrors and the various antenna on the roof. The aerials are a little thick, here and would be well replaced with some fine metal wire or stretched sprue. The decal sheet is a lovely item. Airfix have employed the services of Cartograf, once more, so the quality is assured. The images are pin sharp, with all the sponsor logos and markings, perfectly legible. Colours are bold and appear accurate and the carrier film has been kept to a minimum around the edges of each decal. Markings are supplied for either the No3 car of Jari-Matti Latvala or the No4 machine of Petter Solberg, from the 2012 Monte Carlo Rally. Conclusion This is a super little kit and represents excellent value for money. It is simple enough to be enjoyed as a quick, weekend build, yet it possesses enough detail to produce a very nice model straight out of the box. With some extra detailing and refinements, you could end up with a stunning little replica of a modern piece of WRC machinery. Im looking forward to getting stuck into this one. Review sample courtesy of
  21. Peugeot 207 S2000 P.Valousek Jun, Bohemia Rally 2011 1:24 scale Reji Model The 2011 Rally Bohemia was round 6 of the European Rally Cup Central, as well as round 5 of the Czech Rally Championship. It was held over the weekend of 1st - 3rd July and ran a total length of 191.37km. The Czech driver Pavel Valousek Jun and his co-driver Zdenek Hruza entered the event, driving a Peugeot 207 S2000, run by the Peugeot Delimax Total Team. He would set the fastest times on 3 of the 15 special stages, with 4th fastest being his lowest stage finish. He would end the event in 2nd place overall, 35.2 seconds behind the veteran Belgian stager, Freddie Loix. Valousek Jun made his rally debut in 1999, at the age of 20 and competing in the Rallysprint Kopna, piloting a Honda Civic Vti. He has driven a wide variety of rally machinery from the likes of Skoda, Mitsubishi, Subaru, Toyota, Ford, Citroen, Peugeot, Renault and Suzuki, and competed in JWRC, PWRC, ERC, IRC and WRC events. This year, he can once again be found behind the wheel of an S2000 Peugeot 207 of the Delimax Czech National Team. Decal set number 174 from Reji Model features the Peugeot 207 S2000, as driven by Valousek Jun at the 2011 Rally Bohemia. The decals have been designed for use with the Belkits 207 S2000 (kit No BEL001). Inside the standard zip-lock bag, we find 2 full sheets of decals ( along with a small addition sheet) and a colour fold-out paint and marking guide. The paint job required for this one couldn’t be simpler. The body shell is sprayed gloss white (Reji recommend Tamiya TS-26) and then the trim around the windows and front grill can be painted black. Everything else is supplied on the decal sheets. The blue and red strips are supplied in segments which are sensibly separated around selected panel joints. I would imagine that with the help from a little setting solution, they will snuggle down nicely over the body curves. Then the plethora of sponsor decals and rally placards can be applied. Reji have even supplied a number of decals to go inside the car (their placement is shown on the reverse of the paint guide), with most of them going on the racing seats. We also have the correct OMP logos, which are needed for the harnesses. The decals themselves are the usual excellent Reji quality. All the images are sharp and crisp, with colours being nice and strong. The carrier film is extremely fine and the registry looks spot on. Conclusion This is the sort of aftermarket sheet that makes you want to buy the required kit, just so you can use the decals. They really are that nice. It’s a very simply paint job, the decal application shouldn’t be too taxing and you will end up with a rather attractive looking little Pug to add to the collection. What’s not to like?. Recommended without hesitation. Review sample from
  22. Fiesta S2000 M.Prokop Deutschalnd Rally 2011 1:24 scale Reji Model Czech driver Martin Prokop, made his WRC debut at the age of 23, in the 2005 Monte Carlo Rally, competing in the Junior category and piloting a Suzuki Ignis S1600. He would finish in 9th place in the JWRC championship, come years end. The following year he switched to a Citroen C2 S1600 and gained his maiden JWRC rally victory, at the Spanish Rally Catalunya. Still competing in the Junior class, Prokop would win Rally Deutschland and the Tour De Corse, in 2007 and finished 3rd in the championship standings. In 2008 he began contesting both the JWRC and PWRC (Production World Rally Championship). The following year, he secured the Junior championship and finished 2nd in the Production class. 2010 would see Prokop switch to the new Super 2000 WRC championship, driving a Fiesta S2000 for the Czech Ford National Team. He became the first S2000 driver to win a special stage of a WRC event, on SS16 of Rally Sweden. He continued in the S2000 class, until finally making the switch to the senior WRC category in November 2011, when he entered Rally GB, using a Fiesta RS WRC. His first full WRC season (2012) would end with 9th place in the championship standings. This year, he is still in a Fiesta RS WRC, driving for the Jipocar Czech National Team and is currently sitting in 9th spot in the championship. Decal set No 195 from Reji Model features the Fiesta S2000, in which Martin Prokop took 6th place at the 2011 Rally Deutschland. The sheet is designed to be used in conjunction with Belkits Fiesta S2000 model (BEL002). The paint finish required for this car is going to be quite labour intensive, requiring some very careful masking to ensure everything lines up straight and symmetrical. The base colour is gloss white and then on top of this, there are large blocks of red down the flanks, on the roof and the centre of the bonnet. The rear of the car is largely blue, along with the lower edge of the front spoiler. Finally, we also have strips of gold running from the edge of the bonnet, up the “A-Pillars” and along the roofs edge, as well as additional gold bands which angle up the sides, onto the doors. Once that task is completed, your attention can turn to applying the decals. Reji supply everything needed, on one sheet, with a small correction sheet for 2 sponsor badges which go on the roof. Once again, the quality of the decals is excellent. The images are sharp and clear, with bold colours. The registry is spot on and the sponsorship logos all appear very authentic to the originals. Everything is printed on very fine and glossy carrier film. Conclusion Due to the complexity of the paint job required, perhaps this is one for the more advanced Rally modellers among us. On the other hand, we only advance ourselves through experience, so if you feel confident enough to try it out, I’d say go for it. Take your time and with some careful masking and painting, you’ll end up with a very colourful car to add to the collection. I can’t speak well enough of the decals themselves. They are simply another very high quality product from Reji Model. Review sample from
  23. BMW 635 CSI J.M. Ponce, El Corte Ingles Rally 1985 1:24 scale Reji Model Jose Maria Ponce has become a familiar face among fans of the Spanish Rally Championship. Born in 1955, he entered his first event, the Rally El Corte Ingles in 1977, driving a Toyota Levin and finished in a respectable 8th position. He would become a regular attendee of this event. In 1985, piloting his BMW 635 CSI, he won the Rally Isla de Gran Canaria. The following event, was the El Corte Ingles, which he entered alongside his co-driver, Isabel Fernandez, once again in the 635. Unfortunately, their rally was ended prematurely when engine trouble forced them to retire. Over the years he has driven a wide variety of machinery, from the likes of Toyota (Corolla Coupe and Celica GT4), Ford (Escort Cosworth), Volkswagen (Golf Gti , Golf IV Kit Car and Polo S1600) and Peugeot (P306 Maxi and P206 WRC).He his best known for his long association with BMW, though. Driving a number of different models, from the old 2002, several 323i and 325i’s, M3’s and of course, his 635 CSI. He has competed in national Spanish national events each year, since 1977, as well as a number of WRC and ERC rounds. In 2013, he was once again at the wheel of his trusty E30 M3 and finished 3rd in the Rally Villa de Santa Brigida. It would appear that for Jose Maria, rallying really is in the blood. The decals The lovely people at Reji have once again supplied us with a review sample of one of their latest decal sets. Sheet no 193 provides us the opportunity to replicate the BMW 635 CSI, as driven by Jose Maria Ponce and co-driver Isabel Fernandez at the 1985 Rally El Corte Ingles. Inside the clear zip-lock bag, we find one colour printed, 4-view paint and decal guide and 2 sheets of decals. The markings are for use with either the Tamiya BMW 635 (kit nos 24061 & 24322), or Fujimi’s version ( kit nos 082455 & 082608). The paint work on this one couldn’t be much simpler. The body shell is gloss white overall, except for the bonnet, which is finished in black. I found some old footage online, which appears to show this black as being either glossy or semi gloss, but there is a definite sheen apparent. Aside from the trim, the only other pieces which are going to need some careful masking, are the wheels. These are the distinctive BMW cross-wire alloys and they have a chrome outer rim, with the centre lattice work painted gold. With paintwork complete, decaling can begin. Reji Model supply all the main sponsor logos, entry numbers, licence plates and placards on the larger sheet. The smaller decal sheet contains things such as the sunshade sponsor strip, competitor names, some smaller sponsor markings and the BMW Motorsport stripes, which appear at the forward end of the shark nose. Quality is on par with the other sets that I have seen from Reji and that, is excellent. The printing is very sharp and registry is very accurate. The bonnet Texaco star emblem with the fine white surround, being a good example of this. Colours are nice and bold and each marking is printed on extremely fine carrier film, with the absolute minimum of excess film around the edges. They look like they will be a pleasure to use. Conclusion Another superb quality release from Reji Model. This is a great choice of subject, being a little out of the ordinary, with an older car from surely one of the sport’s longest serving pilots. I can’t recommend them highly enough. Review sample from
  24. Citroen C4 WRC, P.Solberg & P.Mills, Catalunya Rally 2009 1:24 scale Reji Models Like his older brother Henning, Petter Solberg began his motorsport career by competing in Rallycross. The day after he passed his driving test in 1992 (which was 3 days past his 18th birthday), he entered his first event. He would go on to become the Norwegian champion in both Rallycross and Hillclimbing, in 1995, winning an impressive 19 out of 21 events. He repeated this success the following year, being victorious in 15 from 19 events. He made his stage rally debut in the 1995 Norwegian Rally Bjørkelangen, piloting a Volvo 240. He would go on to become Norwegian Rally champion in 1998, bringing himself to the attention of several World Rally Championship (WRC) teams. He signed as a junior driver for Ford, in 1999, but was unexpectedly thrust into the limelight when Fords No2 driver, Thomas Radstrom, was unable to compete in the Safari Rally due to injury. Solberg was entered into the event in his place, as a nominated points scorer for Ford. Despite being one of the most challenging rallies on the calendar, Solberg not only completed the event, but finished in an impressive 5th place. Of course, he is best known for his association with Subaru. He joined the Prodrive Subaru World Rally Team (WRT) in 2000 and became the first Norwegian WRC champion, when he took the drivers title in 2003. He would also finish as runner up in 2002, 2004 and 2005. When Subaru withdrew from the WRC in December 2008, Solberg was left without a drive for the 2009 season. After weighing up his options, he decided to enter the championship as a privateer and acquired a 2006 spec Citroen Xsara WRC and formed the Petter Solberg WRT. Along with regular co-driver, Phil Mills, the team made their debut at the Norwegian rally, finishing in 6th place. The following round, in Cyprus, Solberg and Mills would finish in 3rd place, the first time since 1993 that a privateer team had finished in a podium position. He would continue to battle for 3rd and 4th spots for every rally that followed, up until Rally Finland, where he was forced to retire. Feeling that he had taken the Xsara as far as he could, he began the search for a more competitive car. After sitting out the Australian Rally, he returned for the final 2 rounds of the season, with a Citroen C4 WRC, which had been upgraded to something near the spec of the Citroen factory cars. Piloting the C4, he would finish in 4th spot at both the Catalunya Rally and Rally GB, securing 5th spot in the drivers championship, come years end. He would better that result a year later, by finishing 3rd in the drivers championship, once again piloting a privately entered Citroen C4. He would switch to the Citroen DS3 WRC for the 2011 championship (finishing 5th in the title), while 2012 would see him return to the Ford factory team, driving a Fiesta RS WRC (once again finishing 5th). Unfortunately, with Fords withdrawal from the WRC, he once again found himself without a seat for the 2013 championship, but he can now be seen in the European Rallycross Championship. One of the latest decal releases from Reji Model, set No 199 features the privateer Citroen C4 WRC, which Petter and co-driver Phil Mills drove to 4th spot in the 2009 Spanish Catalunya Rally. The clear Zip-Lock bag contains 2 sheets of decals and one colour, 4-view paint and decal guide. The decals are designed for use with the Heller 1:24 Citroen C4 WRC (kit no 80756). After applying a gloss white basecoat, some careful masking is going to be required in order to paint the curvy black markings on the body shell and to get them looking symmetrical. The rear spoiler is finished in black, as is the front edge of the bonnet. A yellow band is required around the lower edge of the front valance, which extends around and behind the wheel arches, on to the forward end of the doors. This should be quite a simple task, as it is all straight edges. Once painted up, your attention can turn to applying the multitude of sponsor decals and placards, etc. As with previous releases, Reji have done their research very thoroughly. The markings all appear very accurate and authentic. The decal sheets are fantastic quality, featuring pin-sharp images, printed on extremely thin and glossy carrier film. The colours (and the blacks and whites, for that matter) are nice and bold. I cant forsee any issue with their use at all. Conclusion Another fantastic quality product from our friends at Reji Model. I have no hesitation in recommending them to fellow Rally fans, as they offer a welcome alternative scheme for the Heller C4 model. Review sample from
  25. Ford Fiesta WRC Decals, 'Prokop' 2011, & 2012 decals from Reji in 1:24 The Ford Fiesta is a very popular hatchback car seen on streets worldwide, this innocent little hatch has also been transformed by Ford and m-Sport for the Ford World Rally team and it took to the rally in 2011 with a 1.6 litre engine and 6 speed sequential gearbox. Reji Model has released 2 sets of decals for the WRC Fiesta as raced by Martin Prokop in the 2011 Welsh Rally, and the 2012 Monte Carlo Rally and will suit the Belkit (BEL003) kit. Martin Prokop debuted on the WRC in 2005 after 4 years driving in the Czech Rally Championship he took part in the Junior WRC category, working his way through various cars he took to the wheel of the Fiesta WRC in late 2011. Prokop drives as part of the Jipocar Czech National team that was formed in 2010. Prokop Rallye Monte Carlo 2012 The Monte Carlo rally is organized by the Automobile Club de Monaco, the same group that organizes the Monaco F1 Gran-Prix, it first ran in 1911 and the 2012 event took place in early January 2012. Prokop completed the rally in his Fiesta and finished in 9th place overall. The decals come in a zip-lock bag as we have come to expect from Reji. The decals are the usual high quality and are very comprehensive; the printing is sharp and in register for the review sample. The kit will need painting in white, then masked for the red and black areas. The instructions are the usual Reji format, colour drawings showing the placement of all decals. A small bonus in this set is a small etched metal Monte Carlo rally plaque. The etch is a nice small detailed part that you could place the decal on with lashings of softener, or you could paint it red then white on the raised areas. Wales Rally GB, 2011 The 2011 Wales rally GB was the 67th outing of this event, and took place in early November. The event was biased in Cardiff but stages where held throughout Wales. The decals follow the usual format, they come in a zip lock bag with the decals and colour instructions. The decals are to the expected high quality and are a completely comprehensive set. You will need to paint the model white and again mask the red and black areas. Conclusion These are two nice sets for rally fans. Both sheets are different if you look to mirror the changes in decals and sponsors between the 2 events. Both come recommended due to the high quality of the sets! Review sample from
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