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Found 22 results

  1. Hello everyone, I hope you're all doing well. I wanted to share a bit of a dilemma I've been facing with my model Titanic, and I'm hoping some of you might have some advice or tips to help me out. A while back, I received a 1/400 scale model of the Titanic from Revell. It was my very first model, but unfortunately, it never got finished. The main issue is that it was painted in a rather amateurish manner, using the paints that came with the kit. Now, I'm eager to finally complete it, but the paint job is really holding me back. I've been considering trying to strip the paint, perhaps with a solvent of some kind. Does anyone have experience with this? Is there a chance I could remove the paint without damaging the model itself? Assuming I can successfully remove the paint, I'm planning to repaint it, this time using spray paint for a smoother finish. Additionally, I've been thinking about replacing some of the plastic parts with photo-etched parts from Eduard. Has anyone here attempted a similar upgrade? Any advice on how to go about it would be greatly appreciated. Thank you all in advance for any help or suggestions you can provide! Regards, Szymon
  2. Subject exclusively concerning the assembly of this 71-metre ferry. The subject of the design of the model is here: I can start the assembly even if the upper deck that we could call the walkway bridge is not designed yet, which would not be long in coming. The goal of the project is to moor the Nomadic to the Titanic, as it did in Cherbourg before it left for Ireland, in order to transship passengers. Part of the assembly of the accessories must be done before the gluing of the half shells, afterwards it will be impossible to come back to it. The Nomadic will be held to the Titanic by two piano ropes inserted in each ship. Everything will be dismountable. The Nomadic or the Titanic can be exposed alone as needed. The piano ropes will have another function, that of driving the 12 v continuous from ship to ship for lighting the Nomadic, the more on one rope the less on the other. No unsightly wires therefore. Once the piano strings are removed, the holes will be two of the many cooling water or sewage outlets on both ships. So I cut two brass tubes to insert them into the hull, they will serve as guide bearings for the piano strings. I soldered well for the front tube a very thin transformer copper wire, this wire is very thin and very good conductor at least for the milliamps consumed by the two leds that will be used to simulate a main deck lighting. No need for more in my opinion, it must be low in intensity, hot leds (yellow) of course. For the stern as I have a central bulkhead at this level I had to solder the wire after gluing it inside, then I soldered by putting the iron in the hull, a bit sporty... The tubes: A little coating remains to be applied to integrate the tube to the hull, we will see that fire after painting. Both wires, the + at the front, the less at the back. SE also poses the problem of glass in the end ports of the main deck. So I thought of Rhodoïd packing material to design them. It's port is not very accessible, it's impossible to glue directly a plate. The idea came to me to make a frame in Rhodoïd, which thanks to its flexibility will come to stick two of these faces on the ports giving the illusion of a glass. It will first have to paint at least the surrounds of the ports in white, because it would otherwise be impossible to paint with aerosol without putting some on the glass once the half-shells are glued. Once painted, I could mask the openings with either tape to paint the rest, in two steps. For the ports more in the center, it's the same, but there I have access to glue the transparent... The parts are starting to pile up, I printed sometimes 4 copies, to have spare parts in case of breakage and for several copies. The last parts like the mast and its scales were well printed, the bar a little less because it is very thin, the compass is really beautiful. The gratings are also well done, we can see the micro-holes that should not be filled with paint... Navigation light lantern Compass. Grating.
  3. This vessel doesn't need an introduction, but I'll write one anyway: The R.M.S Titanic was a British ocean liner, one of three Olympic-class ships and the largest ship in gross tonnage at the time. During her maiden voyage from Southampton to New York she struck an iceberg at the North Atlantic and sank in just under three hours, resulting in the death of 1,496 of the 2,208 passengers and crew. This was the event that immortalized her name in history. This is Academy's non-premium version of the model, meaning that it only came with the model itself; It didn't have any of the extras that came with the other boxings of the kit such as photoetch or wood decks. Other aftermarket used was Eduard's photoetch set and Master's Olympic-class brass mast set. Other corrections or additions were either scratchbuilt or 3D printed. Here are the photos, before I get into the details of the kit (This is going to be bandwidth-heavy): This is the single longest (8 months) project and largest, most difficult build I've done and it definitely tested my limits as a scale modeller. Being that I usually do aircraft I had to learn multiple skills on the spot to get this model across the finish line. The materials and tools used are fairly straightforward; All of the paints on the model except the white (MRP), anti-fouling red (Mix of (XF-2:2/XF-7:1) and some of the thinner brown parts (light brown marker) were painted with Tamiya acrylics. If I were to revisit this build I'd probably lighten the mix of anti-fouling red and use a much lighter color for the wooden decks and the dark mast color, though. The rigging came from Infini's Super Fine Black Lycra rigging (40 denier), but for the Marconi array that connects the masts I decided to experiment by heating the black PLA filament I use for my 3D printer and pulling it, like stretched sprue. The material behaves like it as well, but is tougher and sags much more consistently than sprue (although more brittle). I used this on the model but the sag disappeared when I attached the lines attaching it to the boat deck and those lycra lines pulled it taut. I would definitely recommend trying it out if you have some PLA to spare at home for rigging that has to droop. As for the quality of the kit, well, of the large scale kits of Titanic the Academy's probably the best one for beginners, but that doesn't say much given that its competitors are a kit released in 1976 and a monster that's twice the size. The way it goes together is relatively straightforward if tedious, but the instructions frequently make it difficult to be sure on anything or to figure out how some parts are supposed to be placed, something that's crucial when there are up to 20 copies of the same ventilator, pipe or crane. The fit isn't great either, especially with the decks and superstructure. It's also highly inconsistent in this regard; sometimes a part will fit just as it's supposed to, and on other times it has to be wrestled in to place. The worst part came when it came to the forward "wall" of the superstructure; This is the part where the bridge windows are located. The gap is inconsistent on each side and I had to use a lot of plastic card shims to get it in place properly, and even then some of the seams are still slightly visible. The inaccuracies on this kit can get annoying as well, so much so that I can't really go into too much detail listing all of them unless I want to make this much longer than it already is. Any builder of the Titanic could uncover many of them through just checking surface-level photos and references and correct accordingly, but I suppose the most important corrections to make are adding a set of missing emergency "cutter" lifeboats (the ones that are opened and hang over the ship), and the lack of C-Deck openings under the forecastle and poop deck. I implemented as many of these as I could but there are some that I had to leave in. For all the inaccuracies, it builds up to a nice looking model in the end, however, and the kit still stands up to what other companies have to offer and is superior to the Revell kit in the same scale. There are many things in the build I know I could have done better in or rushed too much in; but after many months of work I'm just satisfied to call it done for now. Maybe I'll be able to build something closer to the real thing in the future. Thanks for reading!
  4. Hi, After getting back into modelling during lockdown I have progressed to what I would generously call an intermediate standard. I now fancy tackling my first large scale model and for this I have chose the 1/400 Academy, as it seems to get the best reviews for accuracy and detail. I plan to add some aftermarket extras, as well as LED lighting. I'm aware that there was a limited edition kit with lighting however that no longer seems available as new in the UK. My question primarily concerns the use of LED lighting. It doesn't seem to difficult, however if anyone has any experience of this I would much appreciate some tips and pointers. I also did wonder if the kit available for the 1/400 Lego model could be adapted? Any other advice would be more than welcome….I know my limitations 😀 Thanks guys. Phil
  5. SS Nomadic, Transborder, the little sister of the Titanic, at 1/200. Launch at the Harland & Wolff shipyard in Belfast: The ship in Cherbourg, its home port: Other Nomadic Names (1910 - 1934) Ingénieur Minard (1934 - 1974) Nomadic (1974 - in service) Type Transborder Length 71,17 m Width 11.28 m Tonnage 1,273 t. Propulsion 2 double expansion compound steam engines Speed 10 knots Shipyard Harland & Wolff, in Belfast Shipowner White Star Line (1911 - 1927) Cherbourg transshipment company (1927 - 1934) Cherbourg Towing and Salvage Company (1934 - 1940) Royal Navy (1940 - 1945) Cherbourg Towing and Salvage Company (1945 - 1974) United Kingdom Pavilion Construction December 22, 1910 Launch April 25, 1911 Inaugural voyage May 27, 1911 Passengers 1.000 Crew members 14 The SS Nomadic, sometimes referred to as the "Titanic's little sister", is a White Star Line steamship commissioned in 1911. It is a ferry put into service to embark passengers of the new Olympic class liners in the port of Cherbourg unsuitable for their large size. At that time, it operated in duo with the Traffic: the Nomadic carried first and second class passengers while the second carried third class passengers and luggage. In 1927, the White Star Line sold it to the Cherbourg Transshipment Company, which used it for the same purpose and with the same name. In 1934, it was sold again, this time to the Cherbourg Towing and Salvage Company, which renamed it Ingénieur Minard. During the Second World War, the ship manages to escape to Great Britain where it is used by the Royal Navy. It was then returned to the port of Cherbourg, where it was used as a ferry for the Queen Mary and the Queen Elizabeth. Retired from service in 1968, she was sold to a private individual six years later. The latter transformed it into a floating restaurant on the Seine. Twenty-five years later, destined for the scrapyard, it was saved by the action of associations which led to its return to Belfast to be restored to its original state. The Nomadic is the last remaining vessel of the White Star Line that is still (almost) afloat. http://aftitanic.free.fr/wsl/nomadic_1911.html https://titanicbelfast.com/Explore/Nomadic-Belfast.aspx The plan of Bateau Modèles N°105 will help me to model, although it has a small error in the positioning of the hawsers on the side view but not on the front view, nothing serious, the base is good and probably, at first sight, taken from the original plan. Some modifications have been made over the decades on this ship. My version will be that of the first two photos, just before the installation of a bridge shelter in Cherbourg to shelter the sailors, the wheelhouse and the chadburn. http://rms-titanic.fr/otb/index_nomadic.html 3D drawing Emil Besirevic. The goal of this Nomadic project is to put on board my future Titanic 1/200 from Trumpeter and the ferry as it was during its stopover in Cherbourg in 1912. I started 3D drawing a few days ago: 8 hours 3D printing tonight of the first hull prototype. It's very successful in terms of shape and details, much better than on the T2 tanker, but the resin is broken at the end of printing, a lack of support probably, and a lack of experience on my part with this much faster printer that stresses the part a little more when it tears at the bottom of the tank. My transparent film at the bottom of the tray is pierced in two places and I don't have a spare for the moment, spare FEP films were supplied with my first Anycubic printer, but not with this one, they are not available on their website (!?). So I ordered from the "aftermarket" which will probably do the trick. The main thing is that the model is very clean by itself, and that the printer works perfectly, I will certainly reduce the speed of the stepper motor to avoid this kind of misadventure. That's the game, we learn every day with 3D printing! Holy And mistakes are paid cash... Hull hollowing: Height 180 mm. That is to say half of the ship. Anycubic Mono X printer. It looks like it hit an iceberg, but from the wrong side! 😂 This is the best hull surface quality I've been able to print.
  6. "Take her to sea, Mr. Murdoch. Let's stretch her legs." Captain E. Smith. My favourite quote, and scene, from the 1997 film set aboard the RMS Titanic which was the largest ship afloat on 15 April 1912. She was a beautiful greyhound of her time and her incredibly sad fate still captures our imagination today. This is the Revell 1/570th scale kit of the RMS Titanic, it was first released in 1970 and my parsimonious wife snagged it for £10.50 from M&S on Boxing Day, 2012. It isn't a detailed kit but I have enjoyed building it as one of my 'Covid-19' projects with very few scale modelling resources to hand at the start. The hull and superstructure were mostly airbrushed using the acrylic paints supplied with the kit. The decks, funnels and details were all hand painted. She was finished with a coat of acrylic satin varnish. I really enjoyed putting this kit together, only my third 'floaty thing' since I was 10 years old! My wife likes it but is demanding a 1/570 scale pair of binoculars for the crows nest as well as a scale polystyrene iceberg 😙 IMGP3938size by Ghostbase, on Flickr IMGP3937size by Ghostbase, on Flickr IMGP3932size by Ghostbase, on Flickr IMGP3942size by Ghostbase, on Flickr IMGP3940size by Michael Baldock, on Flickr
  7. RMS Carpathia In 1912 Harold Thomas Cottam was the RMS Carpathia's wireless operator. Early in the morning of 15th of April, whilst Carpathia was Eastbound in the North Atlantic, he was about to retire to bed following a long but entirely routine shift. Instead of going to bed however, purely on an impulse, he decided to send a courtesy message to Titanic regarding some undelivered commercial messages that he intended to relay on his next shift. Instead of receiving a polite nod of thanks from Titanic - he received this... 'Come at once. We have struck a berg. It's a CQD OM.' CQD = 'All Stations - Distress!' Carpathia's Captain - Arthur Rostron - was immediately alerted and, despite the extraordinary improbability of the events that were unfolding, he quickly grasped the situation and realised that he was within range to help. He turned Carpathia toward the Titanic's last stated position and ran her at speeds exceeding the ship’s nominal maximum through hazardous waters known - self evidently - to contain dangerous icebergs. Carpathia arrived at the scene of the disaster approximately four hours later - just before sunrise. Heartbreakingly she was too late for the 1503 souls that died that night. She was however able to recover 705 survivors and following a harrowing journey deliver them safely to New York city. Of the several ships associated with the Titanic disaster Carpathia was really the only one with her reputation enhanced in any way. For this reason it is perhaps a little surprising that she is not modelled more frequently. After all she is the hero in the most famous episode in maritime history. Right now however, as some of you will know, I'm in the middle of scratch-building an Avro 504k in 1/32 scale and I'm greatly enjoying the challenge, Here's the WIP if you are interested. So why am I sitting here writing about Carpathia? Well, the Avro project is going well but is progressing very slowly and is about to enter, yet another difficult phase involving cockpits and struts and rigging and what-not... I was hoping to have the Avro ready for the Western Australian Model Expo in May 2019 but, frankly that's looking very unlikely. So I've decided to have a crack at a quicker build that, for the time being, will take priority - RMS Carpathia, Scratch built in 1/500 scale. Here's a book on the subject - just to prove I can read 🙂 And here are the plans - enlarged from 1/1200 scale from John Bowen's excellent publication 'More Miniature Merchant Ships'. And here is the first cut in the entire project. And the wood selected for the hull - superb stuff this - maybe even as good as bass wood for carving... When doing fuselages and hulls and other symmetrical things I like to temporarily glue two even halves together at the start of the project. This creates a natural centre line to work from but I'm still be able to split the two halves apart later on if need be. For example when it comes to fitting the masts and other centreline accruements. If you follow the thread you'll see what I mean. I've decided to cut the sheer first. The sheer - nautical term that! It means the lovely curve along the top of the hull. I'm using a bench sander for this job as the thickness of the wood is just a whisker too great for my little bandsaw. Besides - belt sanders are fun! 🙂 It leaves this effect. A nice even curve running the entire length of the hull and a smooth top surface onto which to stick... This! Note how the join in the wood allows us to get the plan's centreline dead in the middle of the job. And now we can cut this... (using a bandsaw of course) 😎 and use the bench sander to sand the correct rake on the stem of the ship's bow. Fire up the bandsaw again to start shaping the Carpathia's beautiful 'counter-stern' - which I fear is going to be one of the tricky bits in this build. A bench sander is essential for this kind of work - perhaps even as important as a bandsaw! 😧 After about two hours work we have this roughed out initial shape of the Carpathia's hull. Not a bad return on a minimal time investment I reckon. I'm going to try to complete this model quickly. I don't want to mess around too much. 2019 is shaping up to be a hectic year for me so on the brief occasions I'll get out into my 'factory' I'm aiming to get a fair bit done. This is a labour of love - but it's not going to be the work of a perfectionist! Hope to see all my old maritime mates back showing an interest in this one! Very Best Regards, Bandsaw Steve.
  8. RMS Carpathia - 1/500 Scale - Scratchbuilt I present for your viewing pleasure my recently completed model of RMS Carpathia. She is depicted as she may have appeared on the night of the 15 April 1912, the night that she sped to the rescue of the beleaguered survivors of the Titanic disaster. The model is constructed from wood, brass, plastic-sheet and various other bits and pieces. It is completely scratchbuilt except for the lifeboats that are 3D printed. The WIP thread that tracks the process of the construction of the model and the sea-scape can be found here: I am quite pleased with the result - especially as the project took less than 4 months from start to finish. The model will be on display at next weekend's WASMEx scale model exhibition at Cannington community hall in Perth Western Australia. Thanks to everyone in the Britmodeller community for showing interest in this project. All comments, criticisms and queries most welcome. Best Regards, Bandsaw Steve 👍
  9. This has taken months and I am feeling pleased to have completed it. My first go at any sort of rigging - achieved thanks to the helpful tips from guys on this forum. It's very satisfying when it all comes together at the end.
  10. Hi, I am trying to build the Revell Titanic and it has simple rigging on it. I have got to a part where I have to thread two pieces of he supplied cord through one 0.5mm hole. I am really struggling to do this and am wondering if anyone has any tips. I ave to thread two cords through one hole in the deck in order to support the masts :-) Apologies if there is already something on the forum about this but I cannot find it. Thanks A frustrated modeller!
  11. Masts for the RMS Titanic and Olympic 1:350 Master Models Master models continue to build up their range of 1:350 scale accessory sets. They are well up to the standard we’ve come to expect from Master Models, but be aware, these items are very sharp, and once fitted to the model could catch someone’s face/eyes if there look too closely. [350-100] This set is designed for the Titanic and Olympic, doesn’t matter which manufacturer they are from. It consists of the foremast and main mast, gooseneck fittings for the foremast derrick, jackstaff and ensign staff. There is also a small etched sheet which contains a new crows nest and navigation light holder, for the foremast. You will need to add some reinforcement under the deck for the masts to sit in but this shouldn’t be a problem for most modellers. Once rigged, and the instructions show clearly how the masts are rigged, they will look much better than the plastic items in the kit which are quite oversized. Conclusion This is a nice easy way to give your big liners that little bit of finesse that makes a nice model look great. The masts are much more to scale than plastic can ever be moulded. With the addition of the other parts it will give that quality look to you r finished model. Review sample courtesy of Piotr at
  12. Greetings all, My first ever visit to this bit of the forum - having found some arm-bands just in case I was inspired, by the wonderful Titanic builds I had seen on here recently, to have a go at a ship model - only my second ever,and the first was some 45+ years ago ('Royal Sovereign' if I remember rightly, where I was the willing helper whilst my late step-father did most of the work). It follows, therefore, that expectations as to build quality, should not be that high! From researching the Titanic, and her lesser-known sister ships Olympic and Britannic, I found that the Britannic had been fitted out as a hospital ship during WW1, whilst the Olympic was a troop ship. I had an idea to do a 'what if' type representation of the Titanic, supposing that had the ship survived to the outbreak of war, she would almost certainly have been pressed into some kind of service. Having primed everything with my traditional Halfords car body spray, I then painted the bottom of the hull with a red oxide primer colour: I then had a small but significant change of plan - I decided that I would make it into some kind of simple sea-scape, which of course necessitated that I cut the bottom of the hull off! From this, you will have correctly determined that planning is not my strong point I then decided to completely respray everything with white! I then painted the deck sections with a thinned down tan colour: Obviously with a small scale kit such as this, the build phase was fairly straightforward: Prior to fitting any of the more delicate bits, I decided to try and paint the green stripe and red crosses, in the manner of the various photos of Britannic. I did so by hand, which is probably fairly obvious! The photos of Britannic showed that there were crosses mounted on the deck rails adjacent to the first and fourth funnels on either side. I made some from some pieces of styrene strip: I then made up and painted the four funnels: The funnels, and the cranes were then fitted: Finally, the masts and the additional red crosses I made earlier. You can't see them very well, but I also applied the decals: So that's where I am as of this evening. I hope to try and fit some cables etc, and maybe a bit of weathering - but that's for another time! Thanks for watching
  13. Finally, after 4 1/2 months of joy, pain, money, hair pulling and rows with she who must be obeyed I have finally finished my first model! Pretty happy with how this turned out. More than a few errors but nothing that stands out unless your nose is touching plastic! The kit was ok but nothing special. Lots of flash and quite a few badly fitting parts as well as accuracy issues but not an absolute dog either. Few scratchbuilt parts including the masts, additional and revised rigging, extra detailing on the forecastle deck and bridge. Hopefully i've addressed a few of the accuracy issues but many remain. Still, it looks a lot like the Titanic. And i'm glad of that because the ship was a beauty! The WIP: Some pictures of the model... Generated from my Apple iPad using tools.rackonly.com Generated from my Apple iPad using tools.rackonly.com Generated from my Apple iPad using tools.rackonly.com Generated from my Apple iPad using tools.rackonly.com Generated from my Apple iPad using tools.rackonly.com Generated from my Apple iPad using tools.rackonly.com Finished Titanic by MikeGBlues, on Flickr Finished Titanic by MikeGBlues, on Flickr Finished Titanic by MikeGBlues, on Flickr Finished Titanic by MikeGBlues, on Flickr Finished Titanic by MikeGBlues, on Flickr Finished Titanic by MikeGBlues, on Flickr Finished Titanic by MikeGBlues, on Flickr Finished Titanic by MikeGBlues, on Flickr Finished Titanic by MikeGBlues, on Flickr Finished Titanic by MikeGBlues, on Flickr Finished Titanic by MikeGBlues, on Flickr Finished Titanic by MikeGBlues, on Flickr Finished Titanic by MikeGBlues, on Flickr Finished Titanic by MikeGBlues, on Flickr Finished Titanic by MikeGBlues, on Flickr Finished Titanic by MikeGBlues, on Flickr Time for a break and then it's onto some aircraft...
  14. Hi Folks, as promised in my introduction in the New Members section here is my build progress on the Revell 1:400 Titanic. The kit is this one: Comes with some nice extras such as postcards, photos as well as some basic paints and glue. When I first inspected the kit three years ago I noticed a large gap at the stern section. For whatever reason it had shrunk to just a couple of mm after a few years on top of a wardrobe and didn't present much of a hassle when gluing together. First things first, the hull (In black plastic, everything else white) and the stand where glued together and details such as the propellers, rudder and anchors were added: Stern by MikeGBlues, on Flickr Stern by MikeGBlues, on Flickr Stern by MikeGBlues, on Flickr Although not visible in any of my photos, I added some sprue to strengthen the inside of the hull. Probably not needed but......
  15. Will be moving onto fitting the Masts to my 1/400 Titanic in the next couple of weeks and I'm not overly optimistic the styrene Masts are going to work with the rigging. Way, way to much flex so no hope of doing nice, tight rigging. I'm thinking of cannibalising a couple of paint brushes that are close to the size and shape I need. Nothing a Dremel and some sandpaper won't take care of. However, how to fit? What would be be the best glue to join wood and plastic? CA? Should I place a small block under the deck for the mast to sit in or something else? Any way to strengthen the original kit Masts? I know some have soldered brass rods of various diameters, but that's beyond me at the moment. If if any of you used or made replacement Masts for your models how did you go about it? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
  16. revell titanic kit,hunter wood deck and rainbowE were used to build this model.How to post my photos?😓
  17. Hey guys! I'm starting my next project R.M.S Titanic by Revell in 1/1200 scale and I will post some pictures here during the progress. For starters:
  18. Academy have a great selection of new releases available to order now through our online store. This release includes ships, aircraft and military vehicles. Of particular note is the 1/700 RMS Titanic with LED Lighting Set and the 1/35 Israeli Magach 7C Gimel. For full details, please see our newsletter.
  19. Hi Everyone, I have for a long time been interested in the Olympic class ocean liners built by the White Star Line at the Harland & Wolff Shipyards in Belfast - Olympic, Titanic and Britannic. Now I have built a Revell model of the Titanic, maybe considering the Olympic. I was just wondering if anyone knows if it would be possible for me to get my hands on decals for the Britannic, the 3rd ship in the class ? I am considering making all 3 ships. I know that my Titanic model is larger than 1:700 scale as I believe it is around 50 cm in length. The current Revell Titanic and Olympic models are made in 1:700 scales. Can anyone suggest where I could get the decals for Britannic ? Thanks, Rick
  20. Hi all, I have been working hard on our house since the move but I have found the time to squeeze in a few small projects here and there. A failed attempt at a train (lost bits during the move), a couple of Battlestar Viper models that I enjoyed and then this…the RMS Titanic 1/700 from Revell. Overall I really enjoyed the build, not too many issues to sort. A bit fiddly in places and the transfers went all silver on me (against the black) – if anyone has any ideas on this please let me know! For your enjoyment. Thanks for looking. Leigh.
  21. Hi everyone Yet another of my 'lit' models. This time the Titanic. I had great fun building this one as there was plenty of head scratching when it came to getting the light to shine throughout the ship. By the time I had finished, the kit must have weighed half of its original weight. I used fibre optics for the mast lights but they didn't seem to come out too well in pictures (and my photography skills are way, way behind my modeling skills) and the navigation lights may be too bright for a ship from that era but that's something which can be remedied another time. Though it is not as good as others on here, the most important thing is that it was fun and enjoyable to build. Kevin
  22. Hi everyone For those that saw my post with the pictures of the finished product (Ready for Inspection - Maritime / Revell 1/400 scale Titanic with lights) I thought that the diagrams below may help them to see how fairly easy it is to do. Below are the pictures of how I cut away sections of the kit to allow light to flow from the hull and throughout the ship. The worst job was to drill out all of the portholes and the windows along the walls on the decks. I covered the whole of the inside of the hull with silver foil to reflect the light upwards and then just added about six 5mm led's. Kevin
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