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  1. I'll be building this once I get around to starting it, trying to up the number of 80/90s Japanese saloon cars in the GB! I've previously built the rally version but will be doing this in homage to a car I once owned (unfortunately mine was the GTI version which had all the 4WD/4WS bits but not the turbo or bonnet vents). I'm not sure if I'll sand out the bonnet vents, since I won't be able to find exact replicas for wheels etc. I might just do it in the colour my car was (a dark red I think they described as Bordeaux) - though the actual VR4s from around 89/90 I've only ever seen photos of in white or black.
  2. Sources: http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10183968 & http://www.platz-hobby.com/products/4026.html 1/72nd Mitsubishi F-1 by Platz (http://www.platz-hobby.com) - ref. AC-9 Review in your favourite forum: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234951934-mitsubishi-f-1-172-platz/ V.P
  3. A6M2 Zero Model 21 Folding Wingtips PRINT (648731) 1:48 Eduard In case it has escaped your notice, Eduard have released a brand-new tooling of the Mitsubishi Zero in 1:48, and it’s a complete peach of a kit. You can see our review here, and my (presently stalled) build here. We’ve reviews a bunch of update sets already here, some of which I've used on my build, but now we have another from their new PRINT range, which is directly 3D printed and highly detailed. As usual with Eduard's smaller sets, they arrive in a flat resealable package, with a white backing card protecting the contents and the instructions that are sandwiched between. The parts are further protected in a crystal-clear plastic box that should be capable of resisting all but the most punishing of impacts. The set includes a pair of new 3D printed wingtips with moulded-in internal ribbing visible from the break-point, plus another pair of 3D printed rib-ends for the inner-wing that have a large tab to hold them in position. You also have the choice of a simpler join that utilises the ribs from the supplied Photo-Etch (PE) sheet, which has a different cut-point, with both of them shown in scrap diagrams that have the sections to be removed marked in red so there's no confusion. You reuse the clear wingtip lights from the kit of course, and there is a painting guide for the interior parts to ensure you get things right. You can see very fine layer marks on the smooth sections of the wingtip skin, but in my experience those disappear after a layer or two of paint, with any stubborn marks responding to a light sanding by vanishing diligently. Most impressive. If this new range of PRINT sets keeps going in this manner, we should see a lot more of them, and they should sell like hot cakes. Now I'm hungry. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  4. Hello model universe, This is part one of my Mitsubishi A6M3 Zero. In this first part I created the cockpit section. I decided to make a nice video build thread, so everyone can see how I attack things. In my opinion better than pictures. I hope it's allowed on this forum. So grab a cup of tee and let's start! https://youtu.be/g3MFMRjaRgE Thanks for joining!
  5. After reviewing this puppy here the other day, I thought I’d give it a go at actually completing a model for once. It’s a nice-looking kit and I like the Zero, and I also like Eduard’s kits, especially their recent ones. I started following the instructions (I know, weird eh?), and prepped the fuselage halves with the instruments and boxes, stripping off the moulded-in detail that’s replaced by the PE parts from the sheet to give it a bit more finesse. A lot of the PE is pre-painted so can’t be put on just yet, so I moved onto the rudder pedals, and here I made my first mistake. If you glance at the instructions, you might think that you just have to remove the pedals by nipping them off. That’s not the case, as I found out when I offered up the new PE pedals. I’ll fix the damaged part later, but pinched another set of pedals from the other set of sprues, nipping off the front of the pedal then sanding and scraping the arms back and attaching the new pedals. I’m also using the 3D Printed Brassin seat, which you can see here along with the resin wheels and the bronze gear legs. That was work of a few seconds, and I attached the brackets to the frame, offering up the seat to ensure they were in the correct place. The adjuster has the semi-circular track nipped off and replaced by PE, with the front face curved to match the sides. After annealing it in a flame, I found it fitted one of my rolling “pins” perfectly and once that was done I secured it with a tiny amount of CA applied by blade. The cockpit floor has an equipment box moulded into it, which has some of the detail removed and replaced by four T-shaped controls later. They’re pre-painted too, so I drilled some 0.3mm locating holes in the top and left them off for now. The clear panel in the floor fits well, and even includes two pieces of kabuki tape for each side. GS-Hypo cement secured that in place, then I added the detail bits to the floor in the suggested order. The same removal of the front detail was needed on the cockpit sides, and again on the instrument panel, then the guns were mounted onto that weird-shaped replica of the ammo feeds. You can quite easily get those the wrong way round if you’re a nitwit, so take care. They fit well one way, and while they’re setting up, align them so they’re both pointing in the same direction. The fuselage halves have a little bay for the arrestor hook, which fits really well and can be glued into one half of the fuselage for painting before you close it up. The same can be done with the landing gear bays, and these fit really nicely into the lower wing with a bit of care. The inserts with the blisters fits incredibly well, with a bit of flash, and I mean a tiny fraction of a millimetre around the edge of the hole making the fit absolutely perfect. I also made up the elevators with a very slight droop in the flying surfaces, then made up the two banks of pistons of the Sakae engine as separate sub-assemblies for painting, and possibly adding some wiring if I have time. I was really looking forward to making up the cowling on that jig, and I wasn’t disappointed. Each part was test-fitted just to be sure, but there was very little prep-work needed, just a bit of care with the application of the glue. The finished cowling is superb, to say the least I put all the resin/bronze components of the landing gear set through the sanding/chopping up process, and made up the drop-tank, which also fits together really neatly, but has a seam running through the filler cap depression. I reamed that out a bit and punched out a 1.9mm circle of 0.1mm styrene sheet, putting it in with some CA so it didn’t melt, and using a pointy bit of Blutak to hold it steady during gluing. It's all waiting to be primed now, which is the next task after cleaning my airbrush Couldn’t resist doing a tape-up after all that fun with knives and glue: I’ve got a bit of research to do on colours, but some of you chaps have already got a thread going on the subject, so I’ll ask any questions there rather than muddy this thread
  6. Stencil Decals for A6M2 Zero (D48098) 1:48 Eduard Decals Eduard’s stencil range has been growing steadily recently, providing sharp, detailed stencilling for numerous types, some of which are lacking from the originating manufacturer’s box. The latter can come in handy for your average modeller, as sometimes the kit doesn’t include a complete set of stencils for expediency or whatever reason. Some folks, myself included, think that the inclusion of a full suite of stencils adds extra realism to a model, although there is of course the time element and the extra carrier film edges to hide. Eduard have been busy of late and have released this comprehensive set we have to review to coincide with their release of a fantastic new-tool Zero in this scale, which you can see our review of here. It arrives in a clear foil re-sealable envelope with a card stiffener, a cover page with instructions printed on both sides, plus the decals with new “cheap toilet paper” protecting the delicate printed surface. This set arrives on one rectangular sheet, although it is stated as being patterned exclusively for the Eduard kit, you would be able to use most if not all of the decals on another brand of kit just as well, and over the course of four profiles and some scrap diagrams, the locations of all the stencils are shown clearly on shaded line drawings. There’s another reason to grab a set of these stencils too now, as Eduard’s printers have been using a new type of carrier film from earlier this year (2021) that can be peeled away a few hours after application to leave you with carrier-film free stencils that won’t need any hiding with coats of gloss varnish then careful sanding back and repeating as necessary. I’ve not used them myself yet, so do a bit of searching for yourself to see how it's done. There’s a thread on Britmodeller somewhere, IIRC. The decals are printed in-house by Eduard and have good register, sharpness and colour density, with a glossy carrier film printed reasonably close to the edges of the printed areas. As you can remove it later anyway, that last part really doesn’t matter anymore! Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  7. Oops I did'nt notice. A review in you favourite forum: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234970145-mitsubishi-t-2-blue-impulse-172-platz/ Improvement set review in your favourite forum: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234970149-mitsubishi-t-2-interior-set-172-platz/ --------------------------------------------------- After the F-1 (http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234946745-172-mitsubishi-f-1-by-platz-released/?hl=platz) Platz has released a 1/72nd Mitsubishi T-2 "Blue Impulse" kit - ref.AC-13 Sources: http://www.platz-hobby.com/products/4317.html http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10270998 http://www.aeroscale.co.uk/modules.php?op=modload&name=News&file=article&sid=18236 V.P.
  8. A6M2 Zero Upgrade Sets (For Eduard) 1:48 Eduard We’ve just reviewed Eduard’s brand-new kit of this iconic Japanese fighter here, and the first batch of resin updates here. The range has been further widened to improve on the kit detail in the usual modular manner, and now with a choice of medium for the cockpit panels. Get what you want for the areas you want to be more of a focal point. As usual with Eduard's Photo-Etch (PE), SPACE, Löök and Mask sets, they arrive in a flat resealable package that has type specific branding, with a white backing card protecting the contents and the instructions that are sandwiched between. SPACE 3D Printed Cockpit Decals (3DL48050) The Eduard SPACE sets use new 3D printing techniques that lay down successive layers of different colour resin, creating highly realistic almost full complete panels that are supplied on a decal sheet. They can depict metallic shades, plus glossy, satin and matt colours too, which really ups the detail on everything they print. In addition, a small sheet of nickel-plated and pre-painted PE is included for the aspects of the set that lend themselves better to this medium, such as seatbelts and rudder pedals. The decals provide all the instrument panel and various boxes in interior green and with fantastic glossy instrument dials that have colourful faces where appropriate. The PE is pre-painted and includes additional parts for the cockpit, some of which duplicates the ProfiPACK PE, but also includes a set of four seatbelts that are arranged in their unusual “off-the-shoulder” style, much like a modern car seatbelt but with buckles rather than a clip. Löök Pre-Painted Resin Set (644128) This set contains a combination of pre-printed resin and PE parts to quickly and efficiently detail up your cockpit. There are two resin parts that make up the instrument panel and side console next to the pilot, with glossy faced dials already painted for you on interior green coated black resin. Two other literal black boxes are included for the sidewalls too, and these are also pre-painted for your ease. Additionally, the PE sheet contains a set of four-piece three-point belts for the pilot, and a double-bezel pair of instruments to fit in the top-centre of the instrument panel. Seatbelts STEEL (FE1238) These belts are Photo-Etch (PE) steel, and because of their strength they can be etched from thinner material, which improves realism and flexibility in one sitting. Coupled with the new painting method that adds additional perceived depth to the buckles and other furniture by using shading, they are more realistic looking and will drape better than regular brass PE. The four parts fit together to provide a set of three-point belts in a style akin to a modern car belt, but with buckles. Masks Tface (EX821) Supplied on a larger sheet of yellow kabuki tape, these pre-cut masks supply you with everything to cover the exterior of the canopy, but also give you another set of masks tailored to fit the interior of the glazing so that you can paint the canopy interior with confidence and give your model that extra bit of realism. You also get a set of wheel masks to cut the demarcation between tyre and hub with ease. Review sample courtesy of
  9. Tora Tora Tora! (11155) A6M2 Zero Type 21 Dual Combo 1:48 Eduard The Zero was the direct successor to the diminutive A5M from the same company, Mitsubishi, and came into service with the Japanese Navy in 1940, where it was extremely well received. It was a fast, highly manoeuvrable aircraft with powerful armament for the time, and it had good fuel economy due to the light-weight construction that would contribute to its downfall later in the war. The engineers used an extremely light duralumin variant, and lightened everything they could to shave weight from the airframe, including perforating the pilot’s seat, with no armour or self-sealing fuel tanks to protect the pilot or aircraft from incoming fire. While the Zero was the fastest kid on the block this wasn’t such an issue, but as the Allies improved their aircraft, they began to fall into their sights more frequently with the inevitable outcome that a great many experienced Japanese aviators were shot down and killed, leaving inexperienced novices to fall prey to the by-then experienced Allied flyers. One such battle was referred to the Marianas Turkey Shoot due to the horrible losses suffered by the Japanese. Toward the end of the war there were improvements made to the type, but many were converted to fly as Kamikaze aircraft, to hurl themselves in an act of futility against the advancing US forces in an attempt to sink their carriers and battleships. Its most infamous use was as the fighters and fleet patrol aircraft during the Pearl Harbour raid that drew America into WWII on 7th December 1941, with a fleet of Type 21s that are otherwise known as the A6M2b taking off first from their carriers due to their relatively short take-off requirements. The rest as they say, is history. The Kit This is a brand-new tooling from Eduard, and it has been given the same duty of care that they lavished on the Bf.109G, the Spitfire and Mustang, making a highly-detailed, totally modern model kit that will doubtless blow many of the ageing competition out of the water in this scale. This is the initial release that uses the attack codename Tora Tora Tora! as the strapline, which incidentally means Tiger Tiger Tiger. I learned something today, but I probably learned it before, as I’m starting to remember. It arrives in a well-stocked top-opening box with a pair of Zeroes on the cover, and some profiles of the decal options on the side. Inside are double sprues in resealable bags, with a total of eight sprues (four per kit), two clear sprues, two pre-painted Photo-Etch (PE) sheets, a sheet of kabuki tape masks for the external glazing (not pictured), three decal sheets and a rather thick instruction booklet with twelve pages of profiles for the marking options. If you’ve been watching the pre-launch of this kit you’ll know that it has exceptional detail on the sprues, and if it goes together like their recent P-51 kit, it will be a joy to build. The full exterior skin is riveted and has engraved panel lines, including some lapped panels where appropriate, all done with incredible fidelity and finesse. The decals are also similarly well done, and the instructions are up to Eduard’s usual level of quality, showing where the various PE enhancements should go, as well as calling out detail painting in their preferred Gunze Sangyo codes. Construction begins with the fuselage, which is painted and detailed internally with PE and styrene parts within the cockpit area to bolster the already excellent ribbing detail that is moulded-in. Some of the styrene parts are upgraded with PE fronts to further improve the look. The cockpit interior is then started with the styrene rudder pedals clipped off the part and replaced by new PE pedals. The pilot’s ventilated seat is laced with four pre-painted belts and attached to the fuselage frame by a pair of brackets and is joined by an adjuster with a curved PE bracket, the styrene version of which is first removed from the original part. The cockpit floor is well-detailed with rivets and is a shallow V-shape, with a small insert filling a gap in the underside, an instrument box detailed with PE toggle-switches, then the pilot’s control column and linkages are all installed on the topside along with the rudders. The sides of the cockpit contain various equipment boxes, which are all stripped of styrene detail to be replaced by PE parts, and they are then brought together with the rear frame, seat, floor and sides to create the cockpit assembly, which is then further detailed with more PE and optional decals, has the layered PE instrument panel built up and inserted into the front of the assembly, which then has the two nose-mounted machineguns added to a shaped part that slots into holes at the front of the cockpit. Behind the pilot a trio of tanks that are glued vertically to the back of the frame, then the completed assembly is put to the side briefly while the fuselage is glued together, adding the rudder, an insert under the tail, and a section of the cowling in front of the nose as you go. Once the glue has dried, the cockpit can be inserted into the fuselage from below, using the gap in the fuselage where the wings will later sit. Like many WWII fighters, the lower wing half is a single part, which is stiffened by a short spar that stretches between the ends of the wheel bays and also forms the back walls. Two holes in the centres of the wings are filled with inserts to obtain the correct blister layout, and the rest of the wheel bay walls are added before the two upper wing panels are laid over the top with bay roof inserts and glued in place. On the inside of the wings there are engraved lines where the folding tips can be cut loose, but for this boxing they are ignored. A pair of clear wingtip lights and styrene ailerons are added, and a scrap diagram shows how the trailing wing root should look once glued, to ensure you don’t make a rod for your back down the line. The “tail” of the wing assembly is ribbed inside, and is fitted out with some small parts, although it’s a mystery to me at this stage where it can be seen from without the aid of an endoscope. The elevator fins are separate from their flying surfaces, and while the fins are two parts each, the thin trailing surfaces are single parts with lots of rib detail moulded-in. These and the wings are added to the fuselage along with some tiny fairings for the aileron actuators, a head cushion for the pilot (isn’t he lucky?), and an intake grille under the nose. The model is looking like a Zero now, but has no nose (I won’t do the joke), which is next to be made up. Both banks of pistons of the Nakajima Sakae radial engine are present, plus a fan of rods front and back, with a two-part reduction gear bell-housing at the front, which has a tiny decal added to it once painted. This fits on a stepped ring that glues to the tapered front of the fuselage, then a bit of fancy styrene engineering takes place. The cowling is built up around a cylindrical jig that you should remain unglued unless you enjoy swearing. The intake lip is fitted to the narrow end of the jig, then two almost semi-cylindrical cowling halves are added, locating in slots in the aft lip of the jig, and gluing to the lip at the front. The intake trunk is inserted into the gap in the underside, and this too has its own groove in the lip, and when the glue is dry, the assembly can be slipped off the jig, and the final section that contains the gun troughs can be added along with another pair of small inserts at the bottom-rear where the exhaust stacks are glued. The finished cowling can then be slid over the engine and secured in place with more glue. The Zero’s wide-track gear made for easy deck-handling, and each of the main legs is made from a single strut with a captive bay door and a three-part wheel/hub combo with no sag engineered in. If you want weighted tyres, you can either sand off the bottom of the kit tyres, or get the Brassin resin wheels that we’ll be reviewing shortly, which have additional detail to sweeten the deal, and include a new tail-wheel strut into the bargain. The struts have their styrene scissor-links removed and replaced by PE parts, then the legs are inserted into the wells, and joined by the inner doors along the centreline, the tail-wheel with two-part strut and tiny wheel, plus a choice of deployed or stowed arrestor hook. There are also a pair of tiny decals for the inside of the main gear bays, which adds a little extra visual interest. Finally, there is a tiny additional bay door at the base of each gear leg, with a scrap diagram showing the correct angle to fit it. With the model still on its back, the fuel tank is built-up from three parts and is glued to the underside, with horn balances added to the ailerons, and a crew-step under the port edge of the wing-root fairing. Another scrap diagram shows the correct orientation of the horn balances. The three-bladed prop is moulded as a single part, with a front and rear spinner half, which slides onto the axle at the front of the engine. On the topside, the gun-sight installs on the coaming, with a PE Direction-Finding (D/F) loop behind the pilot’s head, installed before you address the canopy. The windscreen is fitted first, and you have a choice of closed canopy that is made of two parts and an aerial, or in the open option that has the fixed rear, a slightly larger sliding canopy that fits over the rear, and the same aerial. Inside the sliding portion are a pair of small PE detail parts, and if you spring for additional Tface masks, it may be best to apply the masks before the PE parts. A clear light is added to the very rear of the fuselage, four little upstands are fitted into sockets in the mid-wing, the gun muzzles are inserted into the leading edge with a pitot probe on the port side, plus two tiny PE gear-down indicators over their respective bays. Markings 12 markings options is excellent, even though you’ve got two models to cover, all of which took part in the raid as either fighter or patrol aircraft, and all wearing the same basic scheme. From the box you can build two of the following: Lt.Cdr. Shigeru Itaya, Akagi Fighter Squadron, first attack wave c/n probably 2236, PO2c Akira Yamamoto, Kaga Fighter Squadron, first attack wave Lt. Masaji Suganami, Sōryū Fighter Squadron, first attack wave PO1c Kazuo Muranaka, Hiryú Fighter Squadron, first attack wave Lt. Tadashi Kaneko, Shōkaku Fighter Squadron, first attack wave Lt. Masao Satō, Zuikaku Fighter Squadron, first attack wave PO1c Tetsuzō Iwamoto, Zuikako Fighter Squadron, patrol during the first attack wave Lt. Saburō Shindō, Akagi Fighter Squadron, second attack wave PO1c Yoshikazu Nagahama, Kaga Fighter Squadron, second attack wave c/n 3277, Lt. Fusata Iida, Sōryū Fighter Squadron, second attack wave c/n 2266, PO1c Shigenori Nishikaichi, Hiryū Fighter Squadron, second attack wave PO1c Yukuo Hanzawa, Shōkaku Fighter Squadron, patrol during the second attack wave Decals are by Eduard, which is a guarantee of good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin gloss carrier film cut close to the printed areas. There is a separate page dedicated to the stencil locations that are shown on a set of grey profiles to avoid cluttering the colour profiles. Upgrade Sets Conclusion This is a great piece of news for anyone interested in WWII Japanese naval aviation, and brings Eduard’s renowned level of skill and detail to the subject, kicking it up to the maximum. Watch out for some additional aftermarket sets from Eduard for those that aren’t satisfied with excellent detail and want incredible detail. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  10. Third build of the year - trying to maintain an average of one per month, so far so good This is a kit from the 60s I believe, so lots of rivets and other raised detail. I was looking for a quick build as part of my project to build all planes from one of my favorite games, Hellcats over the Pacific. About halfway through now. Even though it is an older kit it is still typical Hasegawa: Sparse interior detail, excellent fit. I didn't use much filler. Masking the windows drove me almost crazy, I tried using Eduard's G4M2 masking set but it doesn't fit this kit. Took me two days to do the masking and a good two hours to remove it all. Reasonably happy with the weathering. Might be overdone a bit but it helps to mask the lost raised detail on the spine and bottom of the fuselage and other areas where you just can't get around obliterating it when dealing with the seams. Also, it adds character. I used Tamiya primer, Humbrol Polished Aluminium, black preshading, then Tamiya IJN Grey and Green. Then weathered the lot with a sharpened match and some 1500 grit. I wanted to build a Guadalcanal-related plane, as per the game's setting. Decals came from DP Casper's set Forgotten Operations: I-gó Sakusen. I love these campaign-based sets. Now I need to start incorporating the whole Hellcats collection into a diorama... thinking of playing the game and making some screenshots, then creating a backdrop out of that. It also struck me how big the Betty is: Here next to a B-25 I'm building with my son. Much bigger aircraft.
  11. Hi, After Mitsubishi Ki-21 Sally and Nakajima Ki-49 Helen, which I posted some week ago, I would like to show two other heavy Japaneese bombers, both are Mitsubishi: G4M1 in allies code "Betty" and Ki-67 Hiryu ("Peggy"). First is from old Hasegawa mould and second from LS. Both are very archive, Betty I made just after returning to hobby in 1992 and Peggy I made still in the schooldays, about 1977. This LS kit has movable flaps and even you may rectract the u/c... Markings of Betty are from 705 Kokutai, JNAF - New Guinea July 1943 (Rabaul) and Peggy is 3 Kokutai, 14 Sentai JAAF, 1945. Betty: And Ki-67 - "Peggy": Comments welcome Regards Jerzy-Wojtek
  12. So alongside the predictable Draken build I'm doing, I'm also going to be building this in the GB... The 1991 Rally Sweden winner, as well as being the winning car, it had a Swedish crew - Kenneth Eriksson and Staffan Parmander. It's a fairly simple kit, with a limited part count, no engine, etc. It does come with some material to make seatbelts from, some rubbery plastic sheet to make the mudflaps, a metal rod for the antenna and a small PE fret. I've also bought some aftermarket PE set that also comes with some seat belt material too. The decals look pretty good, though that's to be hoped for as other than the decals the exterior of the car is mostly white, other than the blue rear corners/boot which has to be painted onto the body - hopefully the line of the decal covers it, I hope the blue/white crossover doesn't show through the decals! The instructions look clear (well there aren't many parts), the English information panel is full of translation mistakes and misprints (though I kind of enjoy that). The only niggles are the clear parts aren't great, the tyres have a seam and the bonnet has a 2 nasty imprints that will need sanding out - I imagine that's because they based the shell on the road car version/other versions which have 2 large air-intakes louvers there - hopefully that'll sand out nicely.
  13. This will be my entry. Hope I can finishing this on time. This is a full resin kit. I've done some before so I think I can rule with this without major problems....
  14. Here is my LS 1:144 Mitsubishi F-1 30-8269, of the 8th Hikotai “Panther Pack”, JASDF, at Misawa, Japan, in the 1980s, which I completed in 2000. Built mostly OOB, I just added some cockpit details. It was completely painted by brush and only the varnish was airbrushed. Thanks for looking Miguel
  15. Thanks Meissner - https://www.72news.eu/2018/10/rising-models-ki-18-experimental-fighter.html Rising Models (link) is to release limited edition 1/72nd : - ref. RM03 - Mitsubishi Ki-18 Japanese Army Experimental Fighter Including A5M1 AviModels plastic kit (link) with resin convertion parts Source: http://www.rising.risingdecals.com/index.php/1-72-plastic-kits/210-rm-03-ki-18-prototype - ref. RM04 - Mitsubishi Ki-33 Japanese Army Experimental Fighter Including A5M1 AviModels plastic kit (link) with resin convertion parts Source: http://www.rising.risingdecals.com/index.php/1-72-plastic-kits/211-rm-04-ki-33-second-prototype-a5m1 V.P.
  16. Finally, something that isn´t German in my collection, Tamiya´s 1:48 J2M3 "Raiden." The decals worked well after soaking them in hot water for a moment, however, the Hinomarus over the wings didn´t totally conform to the raised details of the ailerons. The model was brushpainted with Revell 40 Black Green for the upper surfaces, and Revell Satin 371 Light Grey for the undersides (which was a pain to paint).
  17. After the 1/48th kit (link) Finemolds is to release in July 2018 a 1/72nd Mitsubishi Ka-14 "9-shi"- ref. FP33 Source: http://www.finemolds.co.jp/iroiro/2018SHS_new.html Source: https://hlj.com/shizuoka-hobby-show-2018-sneak-peek V.P.
  18. For this Model - I used the Hasegawa Mitsubishi Raiden J2M3 1/48 Model kit 09667 “ 302nd Flying Group “ and used the following Aftermarket parts used in the construction: 2 Eduard PE sets - 48 201 and FE117 - both are essential to buy as they each have etch parts that the other doesn’t offer N1K2-J etch set to supply extra handles and switches Eduard Express Mask EX 095 and Squadron Vac Canopy 9587 Fukuya Brass pitot tube ( and the metal end is hollow - so more accurate ) Airmaster Brass 20mm Cannon Barrels (these are highly recommended as they have hollow ends - and are far more accurate and realistic ) Moskit Exhausts ( extremely rare - now - and out of production for over 15 years ) The essential super-detail modifications which I made was adding copper wire (taken from a piece of ordinary insulated wire) to construct the 2 Radio Electrical cables, and at the sides of the cockpit, which I found were necessary due to a close study of the cockpit drawings and photos kindly supplied by the Japanese Aviation expert, Mr Jim Long. The kit pitot tube was replaced by the Fukuya Brass Pitot tube and the Eduard express mask Ex 48 095 was used to mask the canopy frames. I used the out-of-print 1/48 Decals by Aeromaster “ Empire Defenders Part 4 “ which was the J2M3 belonging to the 332 Naval Air Group based at Naruo Airbase in 1945. I used Modellers putty to construct the triangular Leather Headrest which the actual aircraft was fitted with, and was delighted with the result. After I applied the Copper wire at the fuselage sides (fitted to part J6), I then fitted an extra smaller receiver box (scatch built) fitted behind the kit supplied radio (part J14) which the real aircraft was equipped with. Please note the radio electrical cable emerged in 2 places on the right side of the aircraft (see photos) and went around the radio. I used 4 extra handles and switches to the rear of part J8 as the actual aircraft was fitted with 4 extra control handles that are not on the Hasegawa parts - or offered by Eduard used the technique of pre-shading to avoid the purely green boring look to green painted Japanese aircraft and used black Humbrol paint to achieve a weathered look to the Model using my Aztek to apply engine exhaust and cannon barrel staining to the wings and fuselage. ][/url] I love the unusual look of this Japanese aircraft. My only gripe with the model kit is why they don’t supply the kit with a canopy that can be opened, as the Squadron canopy must be purchased to allow you to do this - the same gripe as for the Hasegawa Ki.61/ Ki.100 Tony’s canopy.
  19. Following now with yet more Mitsubishi Ki-15 (this time the I variant, externally differentiated by its Townend ring instead of the full cowl of the II). Still to be determined is if I will go for the mostly seen variant of J-BAAI, or the twin J-BAAL. Or may be both? In any case, in the previous post I used for the II variant the LS/ARII kit. Now I will be using the Mania release later on re-issued by Hasegawa. There is one difference between the Mania and Hasegawa kits. in the Mania sprues the fuselage side windows are flashed over, whilst in the Hasegawa release three windows are opened and the fourth is flashed over. The instructions and decal sets are different too. Both instruction sheets are much better than many contemporary examples. Comparing this kit with the ARII one: I like very much both kits, and again, they are both much better than a bunch of currently released kits. The panel lines are gorgeous, neither trenches nor faint suggestions. The detail on the interior of the Mania/Hasegawa kit is quite better, but alas, the wheel is one piece with the pant, which I find childish and more difficult to paint, whilst on the ARII kit the wheels are separated from the pant. The recent reissue of ARII has two canopies, which is good, since the masking is laborious and can lead to mistakes. And while we are on the subject, I find strange that no aftermarket vendor has come up with masks for these two kits. which are good, have a fair price and are easily obtainable. Mysteries of the kit industry. Somewhat vintage Mania kit: Decals and instructions: Nice canopy: A nice interior: Good surface detail: Fused wheel/pant, a bit of a let down: Again nice surface detail: A prop that will have its spinner: A somewhat credible engine with its exhaust plumbing: The fuselage inside: Bulkhead detail: The more modern Hasegawa issue of the same molds: Same mold, windows flashed over (Mania) and not (Hasegawa): Very nice Yahu Models aftermarket inst. panel: Parts separation a breeze, thanks to sprue gates that don't have the size of a finger: Fine locating pins and holes, a delicate touch: Started interior assembly: Decisions, decisions...to separate those elevators? to get rid of those childish pants-cum-wheel parts?
  20. This is one of the several civil versions of the Ki-15 (I and II) that flew for Japanese newspapers in the late 30s, in this case for Domei News. This somewhat old kit now re-released by Arii is very nice and only needs a few touches to render a nice model. As explained in the building article (posted here as work in progress): there used to be aftermarket decals for this one, but are now OOP, so I had to make my own, helped by the fact that the images needed are very simple and black. The hinomaru were taken from a kit´s stock decal sheet. This worked out as a relatively easy assembly with very few touches as a break from more complex and demanding endeavors, also showing how easy is to take a nice, affordable, available old kit and turn it into something not often seen on shelves and much less in model shows or meetings, where military types tend to be predominant. I found some of the info regarding this build some time ago on the Arawasi website: http://arawasi-wildeagles.blogspot.com/2013/01/mitsubishi-ki-15-ii-domei.html Enjoy this 30s nice civil plane:
  21. After the excesses and debauchery of scratchbuilding, conversions, modifying or detailing models, it´s good to take a break and build something simpler and with a tranquil color scheme (hey, just one color!). Some time ago I bought some kits from the ARII brand of the Mitsubishi Ki-15 (I and II) in order to build the civil versions used as couriers by Japanese newspapers. Now I just started work on the Ki-15 II kit, in order to render one of the newspaper couriers: J-BACL (Domei Press), J-BACK (Osaka Mainichi Shimbun), J-BACR (also Domei Press), or J-BAAO (Asahi Shimbun). All had variations on the side windows, antennas and small marks. Here a Wikipedia photo of J-BACL: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/b/b2/Mitsubishi_Karigane_II_J-BACL_owned_by_Domei_Press_%28burnt_1938%29.jpg Rising Decals issued some time ago the J-BIRDS II sheet which has the J-BACL registration (and other civil planes) but is now OOP and unavailable. So if you have to make your own decals anyway, you can go for either of the above. The "new" (not) ARII kit (that seems to be a re-pop of older brands) is very pleasant, with features you wish much modern kits would have. The engraved panel lines are restrained, the surface detail is nice, the breakdown practical. The parts are thin, and not the heavy duty chunks you get even today from certain manufacturers. The transparencies are ok, and the instructions clear enough. The interior is there, although it isn't outstanding, but as usual not much will be seen of it anyway. One issue: an unrealistic "flattened" engine (although in two rows). And two nit-picks: so-so wheels (not much will be seen of them anyway inside the wheel pants), and a not very good rendition of the fabric on the rudder (very easily corrected with just a few passes of fine sanding sponge). The fit seems good, but we'll be checking that as the build progresses. The parts: Nice surface detail: Some detail, just a tad chunky for the Pitot: Again nice surface detail and very good thin parts: ok transparencies: ok instructions: Engine pancake (why did they do that?) and a tad too simple wheels: Fabric detail could be lightly treated to some passes with fine grain sanding sponge: The two additional windows on the fuselage side are slightly blanked, to cater for multiple versions: For this version, one more window, ahead and up, needs to be opened: The idea is to keep this build nice and simple, contrary to what I always do. Some parts glued together. In general good fit, but I removed the locating pins for the nose parts: The interior color is applied: Inst. panel and engine painted: Third window opened: Once the interior is painted, the parts are glued to the fuselage sides: Then the halves are glued together and one of the nose parts is also attached to keep a better grip on the whole. I will also recommend to remove the locating pins here. They are tiny, and don't produce major misalignments, but may be a hair off: Once the fuselage glue had set, wing and horizontal tail were added. Good fit overall with minimal cleanup:
  22. A new Hasegawa 1/32nd mould (The red logo below "2015 New" is "完全新金型" = Completely New Mold ) from the famous Zero fighter late type: Mitsubishi A6M5c Type 52 - ref.ST34 (08884) Release expected in September 2015 Source: http://www.hasegawa-model.co.jp/hp/2015ajhs/2015ajhs_scale.html V.P.
  23. Hello Gentlemen, this is my next build on Britmodeller. FineMolds 1/48th scale Mitsubishi A5M4 "CLAUDE" Imperial Japanese Navy. The Mitsubishi A5M Japanese Navy Type 96 Carrier-based Fighter was the worlds first monoplane shipboard fighter to enter service and the direct ancestor of the Zero fighter. It was designed by Jiro Horikoshi who is the subject of the The Wind Rises which is an animated historical drama film. The model comes on three main sprues. Spure A contains the wing sections, B contains the engine & cockpit details with sprue D the fuselage halves. F is the transparency and P contains 2 poly caps , only one of which is required. The decal sheet has 3 colour schemes. No 1, 14th Naval Air Group, China, 1940, No 2, Aircraft carrier Kaga Naval Air Group, Japan, 1939, & No 3 Naval Third Carrier Division, 1942. There are 68 parts in total (2 of which are not used) 1 transparency & 2 poly caps. The box art. Construction stages 1 to 9 Construction stages 10 to 15 & paint chart. The three colour scheme options. Sprue A. The wing & undercarriage parts. If you look at the surface of the upper wing, you will notice the different shades of plastic. You can see it more with the naked eye. It shows the different panels very well. It will be interesting to see how they look on the finished model after the paint has been applied. Sprue B, The fuselage, engine & cockpit detail with the decal sheet. The transparency is in the decal bag along with the poly caps. I hope to start the kit in the next week or so. I will first remove all the major parts from the sprues and tape them together to get some idea of the fit. Thanks for looking, Joe.
  24. Today I've had some help from a friend - Stew Dapple has been the first person to sample our brand new, up to date and fully corrected WW2 Russian / VVS colours, meaning that the old WEM ACS range based on Eric Pilawskii's book is consigned to the past. The new Sovereign Hobbies Colourcoats ACS range is based on the latest understanding of the Russian colours and we trust our customers will be very pleased with them. The revamped Russian colours bring the camouflage range to: ACS01 - A.11 Blue ACS02 - AMT7 Blue ACS03 - A.11 Green ACS04 - A.11 / AMT Black ACS08 - AMT4 Olive Green ACS11 - AMT11 Blue Grey ACS12 - AMT12 Dark Grey ACS14 - AE9 Grey ACS15 - A.11 Light Brown ACS17 - 4BO Army Green ACS19 - MK7 White ACS20 - Yellow Grey ACS21 - A14 Steel Grey ACS22 - K.11 KR Red BUT WAIT! THAT'S NOT ALL! We have also revised our Japanese colour ACJ16 - the ash-grey shade used on Mitsubishi built A6M2 Zekes (Zeros). This has been matched to the research of Nick Millman, probably the most respected authority on Japanese WW2 colours in the world. ACJ16 - Mitsubishi Zero Grey-Green
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