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  1. Scratch building many parts is the key to good detail in 1/144. In theory there are no physical limits and a 1/144 model could be as detailed as any larger model, although very special techniques are needed. The biggest issue is paint thickness. I use minimal coats and use washes/dies to single paint coats to reduce thickness. Anything like pre-shading is a no-no and I use a 'reverse dry-brushing' technique using thinned oil paints to achieve this. Kit manudacturers are limited by this scale which is why I wouldn't simply build these kits out of box, they are not bad kits just limited by the scale. Of the ww1 kits I've seen, Brengun is fantastic but only produces 3 types, please so some more! I've got their Voisin Las bomber and its beautifully cast resin and precise PE parts.
  2. I've built the little Lewis Gun. It's meant to have a 'tray' under the magazine but after spending an hour trying to fold tiny bits of foil with needles I had to accept it the way it is.
  3. I was going to get a load done on the aircraft today but a disaster with the very thin cowling saw it drying with a repair this evening. Instead I moulded another of my standard size base and created a HMS Furious deck top. I spent a few hours rubbing it down and starting again until it looked OK
  4. I need to get some optivisor for my work. My eyes are good for 32 but I'm doing little operations practically blind then checking using the zoom on my phone. I can't actually make out any detail on the engine unless it's a few inches from my eye. I like the idea of detail going beyond the average person's eyesight so that no matter how close they look they can't see a lack of detail. Takes a hell of a lot more time to achieve that effect in larger scales.
  5. Cutting the tiny slots in the cowling is tricky business. Before anyone says the pair of rear ones are off centre, the pup has the rear pair of slots off to the right side slightly for ease of priming each cylinder before starting.
  6. Major plastic surgery last night. Wings had recessed rib lines, these had to be filled with stretched sprue, ultra thin cemented then rubbed down to produce raised rib lines. Tedious work but essential. The fuselage cockpit opening was the wrong shape. I am building N6453 (HMS Furious) which has the wedge shaped opening. A real challenge fixing this shape! Also can be seen internal rib detail I put in the cockpit. Top wing has also been modified with the centre opening for upwards angled machine gun on N6453.
  7. I'm building a 1/144 Sopwith Pup. This Valom kit requires some serious work to get to my standards so a few weeks of work to keep me busy. Starting with a Le Rhone 9c engine.
  8. I used a cocktail stick to drag out drops of polyuthane primer into seaweed shapes on a silicone rubber block. When dry you can peel the shapes off. The seaweed did originally stand upright but the hot moist weather caused it to go limp. I may explore slighted stiffer formulations for future vignettes. The rocks are made from air drying clay pressed onto the base then I used a few small stones to press into the surface to texturise it.
  9. It's finished, and on an underwater vignette. To be honest I know I can do better but I rushed this one out as I was getting bored with this model. I have a rule of only ever starting/working on one build at a time, so I quickly finished it so I can start something else. I just didn't get much satisfaction from this kit, can't say why, I'm glad it's done.
  10. There are some accuracy issues with this kit, such as wood cladding on the metal cones which I had to replace with smooth iron. I'm trying to make realistic wood and iron plate textures. I still have to apply rust and weathering and detail parts, it looks quite flat and cartoony until I do so.
  11. SUB-SAM

    1/48 "What If?" - Stealth Viper

    Enter it into a modelling competition.
  12. Wonderful, a real gem. An inspiration to us other 1/144 modellers that anything is possible despite the size.
  13. SUB-SAM

    Scratchbuilt 1/144 Avro Bison 1A

    Very interesting. I will look to learn from your experiences as I will be attempting some 1/144 scratching soon.
  14. SUB-SAM

    Rigging material

    I recommend using corrosion resistant wires such as nichrome or marine grade stainless. The problem with lycra, fishing line or other polymers will be degradation in UV light over time.
  15. SUB-SAM

    That little Fokker...

    The F2b kit is one of the better Valom kits. I have found that half the Valom kits have crap recessed rib lines and somewhat hand carved looking details, the other half (newer releases?) have properly formed wings and crisper details, the F2b is one of them. Generally the 1/144 WW1 range is a bit depressing, Valom are the best ones so far. I got excited seeing thre range of Sram resin kits that were about but looking at pictures of the kits they look poor finish and have nasty one piece fuselages. There's a few odds and sods resin kits from different manufacturers but I can see myself doing some scratch building. I should start another business doing ww1 kits... Also, can you smell the castor oil?