Jump to content
This site uses cookies! Learn More

This site uses cookies!

You can find a list of those cookies here: mysite.com/cookies

By continuing to use this site, you agree to allow us to store cookies on your computer. :)


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

531 Excellent


  • Rank
    Established Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

764 profile views
  1. Yay I managed to un balls it up. First attempt was sanding using 7500 grit paper, trying on an out of the way area underneath. Problem was the coat was so thin it was impossible to do without exposing primer on edges etc so I stopped before ruining it. Second attempt, I sprayed relatively thick gloss coat, this smoothed the surface but you could still see the grains underneath (kinda like a clear resin counter with textured bits underneath) Then as a last attempt I decided I would blow an extremely diluted white semi gloss, with very light dusting over the top of the clear gloss. This has made it look a lot smoother and also made it look a lot more like Alu dope. Also got the red tail on. Can't wait to see it shaded soon.
  2. I had the pressure too low on the airbrush. God damn it, I've ruined it!
  3. Yikes, the paint is worse than I thought when looking closely. Any ideas how to fix this?
  4. I sprayed the aluminium on. I have to say I'm a little disappointed in myself, my airbrushing practice was bad and it's not come out great. oh well its done now and it should look OK when I do the shading as above.
  5. I'm half tempted to release them as a product, if people think the effect is good. I've always wanted to make a modelling related product, I think this could be a good one?
  6. Before proceeding with the model I decided to have a technical session. I like AK Xtreme metal but I wanted to experiment with how to get a realistic completed finish. I'm now aware the Claudes were Alu doped over duraluminium so I will skip the gloss stage to produce a more matt finish, otherwise it would look too much like natural metal finish. In terms of shading and panel lining. - I dislike using oil washes due to drying time and fingerprinting risk. - I don't like acrylic washes as they produce blotches and 'tide marks', sink too heavily into recesses and dry too quickly to work with. -I loathe pre shading and think a lot of people ruin perfectly good models by doing it. (It's also rediculous on 1/144). Once it's done it's done. So I got out the paint mules and decided to come up with another method. Introducing the Volumetric Shading Wash. Simply paint on with a brush, it self levels, shades and does panel lines at same time. It's helpful being an industrial chemist for such tinkering.
  7. Oh wow, that will fill that gap nicely as I don't think there is a modern kit of the Ki-43 (other than stripping F-toys ones) ?
  8. Things happen fast with such a high quality kit, this feels nothing like meddling around with short run ww1 kits. In primer now, you can really see how beautifuly fine the detail is on it. I'm going to give the primer a good chance to dry, followed by Tamiya X1 gloss, followed by AK extreme aluminium to give myself a good metal finish in this scale.
  9. The kit is fantastic, I've never seen such a good fit of parts in my life. It makes a Swiss watch look shoddy.
  10. Seat and seatbelts in position.
  11. Started on the sweet A5M4 as flown by Saburo Sakai. Made a good start on the cockpit. The kit comes with no cockpit detail, apart from a basic seat. - I have used a Brengun PE Japanese seat instead. -Added internal structure, radios and side control boxes. Still need to add instrument panel and control stick. Even though i'm fully able to, ill refrain from doing pipework etc inside because let's be honest what I've already done will be barely visible.
  12. After finishing the Nieuport I said I would do something other than a ww1 subject. I must truly be stuck on ww1 because I've just started two more. I Fancied the all-white craft of Herman Goering but also really wanted to try some of the lozenge camo. I couldn't decide so I thought why not build two at the same. Not sure which one to do along side Goering's but I can choose that later. First job: The upper wings had considerably too much chord, about 1.5mm which is a huge amount in this scale. So I sanded this off to correct dimensions. Also the wings have recessed rib lines which I of course replaced with stretched sprue, yep every single rib! Once sanded to shape it should look great.
  13. Wow, amazing SPAD and superb vignette. I do love the camo patterns seen on these.
  14. It's finished. I am extremely happy with it, it has taken about 55-60 hours of work which is insane for a single 1/144 aircraft.
  15. One of my favourites, I will be following with interest. Are you using any references for interior? I found them to be non existent and I wonder how they decided what the cockpit looked like. I have the drawing of this already printed in 1/144 scale for scratch building, which will be a hilariously small 4cm span.
  • Create New...