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Found 12 results

  1. 'Wonga Bonga' Sopwith Camel F.1 1:32 Wingnut Wings. The Sopwith Camel hardly needs any introduction, as one of the most successful fighters of the First World War and the mount of may aces. This is the superb Wingnuts Wings kit 32074 Sopwith F.1 Camel "Clerget", Reviewd here which comes with five different finishing options. It is a difficult choice as they are all so good and I ended up buying another kit as I couldn't decide on just one! In the end I went for this one as it had a natural metal cowl area, varnished ply cockpit area, and the fin with the Sopwith factory markings on, plus the name Wonga Bonga' on the side. The 'Wonga' refers to the Gotha bombers that apparently made that engine sound 'wonga-wonga-wonga' etc, and the 'Bonga' is the Camel itself, knocking the Gothas out of the sky. It was based at RNAS Manston from July to August 1917. It is a lovely kit, to the usual exceedingly high standard that Wingnut Wings set. I would not say that it is one of the easier kits to build, the cabane struts are vulnerable to being knocked off during the build, so care is necessary. Fortunately I kept all four of mine intact, and the danger is passed once the top wing is on. A few 'In progress' pictures to give some idea of how much interior detail is included. The cabane struts are moulded integrally with the fuselage side frames. The rigging is stretched sprue. Wooden areas are Griffin Alkyd oil paints over Tamiya 'Deck tan'. This is my second WnW Camel build, and I like this kit so much I still have three more in the stash! Thanks for looking John
  2. It seems like an age since I last completed anything, and after receiving the first batch of review kits from new(ish) company AMK - Avantgarde Model Kits, I thought I'd give one of their latest offerings a trip round the block after kicking the tyres in the review here. The build was pleasant and uneventful, with some very nice fit and detail to be had straight out of the box. Apart from the nose wheel attachment being a little weak and feeble, all of the minor problems i had were self-induced, and I thoroughly enjoyed the build. Painting was done mostly with Gunze Sangyo paints, and as I was left with splinters from scratching my head over the East German scheme I'd chosen, I opted for H302 and H406 over H418 in the end, with a random yellow doing the job for the nose and wing accents. The decals went on well, although the carrier film wasn't the thinnest, so if you're using the kit decals, remember to overcoat them with some gloss clear varnish and sand back where you can in order to minimise or hide the edge of the film. Enough waffle... pictures! The build thread can be found here if you're interested. What's next? If I told you, I'd have to kill you
  3. After my review (available here) of this fairly new kit that I first saw at last year's Telford, it's now readily available, and although the price tag isn't for the casual browser, it is a superbly designed multi-media kit. It has a large monocoque moulding of the fuselage and wings that have faired over openings for cockpit, wheel bays, intakes, exhausts and a small grille aft of the cockpit. These need attacking with a motor tool unless you have the patience to chain-drill it all out, which I don't. I've been waiting for a nice sunny dry day when I had a bit of energy and some time to myself, a combination which is hard to find at the moment. Today I managed it, and took the battery powered Dremel out with a selection of bits and started hacking. A lot of dust was created in the process, and the orifices were tidied up with sanding sticks and diamond files of various profiles. I wore a respirator for the whole job, as although I was outside the dust from fibreglass is quite nasty, and even though I was quite careful, I still managed to get a few fibres stuck in between my fingers. The whole area was washed down afterwards, as was the airframe, just to wheedle out any dust that had accumulated during the process. A couple of slips were made with the Dremel, but these have all now been made good with some CA and sanded back flush. Now for a couple of pics: I've been breaking out the resin parts from their casting blocks and preparing those for use over the last week, and that's now pretty much done. You might see the big lines of glue/resin inside the cockpit area, and I think I'm going to have to take the Dremel to those before I can fit the cockpit in, as a quick test-fit revealed that they were in the way. I'm suspecting that the Dremel might see some more action in this area you know
  4. I reviewed this one and went straight on to building it, mainly because I fancied it (in a non-biblical way), so off I went. It's pretty much OOB apart from a few alterations I made to the wing-mounted landing light and due to a few of my own screw-ups, and of course you have to bear in mind that it's a short-ish run kit, which always needs more care and attention to fit and finish than a mainstream kit. It's my first try at an all-over natural metal/silver finish, and I'm reasonably pleased with how it has come out The exhaust staining is perhaps a bit over-done, but I think it adds a bit of drama to the scheme, and the red spinner also helps to lift it a bit too. I chose to paint the gear legs green as an accent, although many examples have silver legs, but green ones are seen. What else? Paints were Gunze, with Alclad white Aluminium as the main shade, which needed straining due to this weird degradation that seems to occur with their metallics, which renders then gritty in the bottle after a few years in stock. Anyway - on to the pics: I'm sure I've probably forgotten a few things, but I'm certain the world won't stop spinning as a result, and as I'm not competitionally inclined, I don't care now I've called time on it You can see the build thread here, and thanks for watching I'll be appearing in an Me.262 ST Group Build here next if you fancy heckling as I go along
  5. I reviewed this puppy a couple of days ago here thanks to @dora(of the Wings variety, not the explorer), and wanted to have a go at putting it together, as with it being a short(ish) run type of moulding, it would be useful to our members to see how it goes together. This type of moulding needs a little more care in construction than your average big-box, stack-em-high type of kit, and preparation of parts is bound to take longer, with test-fitting and fettling an essential part of the model building process. We know all that of course, but it bears repeating just in case some of us aren't familiar with the term I started with the cockpit as per instructions, and have built up a number of assemblies, scraping seams on all the parts, which transforms them and makes construction much easier. There's a shade of mould-slip on a few parts, but nothing too difficult to sort out with just a soupçon of modelling skill and patience. The nose gear bay builds up under the cockpit, so that was done too, as they'll both be interior green, as will the main gear bays etc. Those have just come out of the ultrasonic bath to remove any lingering mould release, which is more likely on short-run kits. Apologies to those that I'm teaching to suck eggs, but not everyone's familiar Anyhoo, while those bits are drying off so I can photograph them, I thought I'd show you a little off-piste non-OOB modelling I've been doing on the leading edge landing light in the port wing. There's a clear part included in the kit, but I wasn't too happy with it, so initially I cut and shaped a piece of 4mm clear acrylic sheet with a view to drilling a shallow hole to represent the light. After a bit of retrospective research on what it actually looked like, I realised the lamp is large and mounted on a flat bulkhead in a square sided enclosure. Back to the drawing board. Version 3 involved squaring off the curved edges of the aperture, building up a little 3-sided box with a recess for a 3mm self-adhesive cabochon (a what?) that's often used in dress-making for rhinestones and sparkly bits, but also looks very like a scale light that some companies sell to modellers at inflated prices I bought a few sheets off eBay in various sizes for a couple of quid for a few hundred of the little blighters. Money-saving tip of the day I also drilled a few holes in the side walls, just like the real thing. That's about the only deviation I'm planning apart from any losses or breakages, which I'll come to later! That's where we're at right now, and that little assembly will be painted up after being glued into the closed up wing (post painting of the wheel bays & their insertion). The cabochons in the foreground will be glued into the recess you can see, as I don't want to rely on the adhesive, in case it falls off later on and rattles around. I was tossing around the idea of using a clear piece of acetate or @woody37's idea of using a piece of sellotape, but as I've got to make good the curved edge, I'll use the acetate block and mask the shape of the outer cover so it looks proper. That would be tricky with tape, and could look a bit of a mess. The cockpit went together ok, apart from the control column pinging out of my tweezers, hitting my shoulder and totally disappearing. I've nabbed one from an Eduard P-39, and will cross that bridge when/if I come to it later I also lost the handle on a lever on the right of the cockpit floor, so I made up a new one from a piece of rod that I sanded to a handle-shape & glued on. I think the nose gear bay sides need a bit of fettling before I close up the fuselage, as they're holding it a little wide, and contributing to a fit issue I've discovered/made for myself on the wing root. I'll talk more about that later on when I've glued the fuselage and wings into their separate assemblies. You might remember that the intake on the spine of the aircraft was an insert, but beware - there are two in the box! Guess how I found out? Yep - fettled and glued the wrong one in! I pulled it off the next day and glued the correct one into each half of the fuselage, and for avoidance of doubt it's the one with the hole in the rear face that you put a bit of mesh over. That's fitted fairly well after a bit of fettling, and I will smooth it out properly during the fuselage closing process. The main gear bays fit inside the wings with a bit of sanding down of the mould edge flairs, but I wanted to be absolutely certain they weren't going to baulk the closure of the wings later on, so I scribbled on their backs with marker pen, then dry assembled the wings. Where the marker had transferred to the top wing I scraped off a bit of styrene with the side of a curved blade until fit was nice and loose. It's more of a precaution than anything, as I hate having to adjust parts after I've spent ages painting them. While I was test fitting the fuselage halves together, I decided to test-fit the nose insert, which has the two cannon ports in the top. Fit straight off the sprue was pretty bad in fairness, but was a bit better once I'd removed any moulding artifacts and flash. It's still going to need a blob of filler here and there, but it's far from unbuildable! I'll get that squared away once the fuselage is glued together, while I work on that wing root. I'm not 100% sure what's going on there, but once the parts aren't slopping around due to being taped together, I'll be able to get a better handle on it and formulate some sort of plan for dealing with it. Happy days! I'll take a few snaps of the cockpit, wheel bays & such once they're dry.
  6. After reviewing this little chap from Mirage Hobby the other day here, I decided to use it as a quick fun build as a break from the upgrading of the forum software The build progressed quickly in between sessions on the site, and apart from altering the seams along the hull edges so that they were on the sides, rather than the tops, there were a few seams to fill, all of which were fairly drama-free. It helped to have some references, and I still have a few rivets here & there to reinstate, plus an L-pprofile strengthening plate to add to the front mudguards, and a few little touch-ups here & there. The tracks were a bit tricky, and with only three links left over, you need to keep the carpet monster away from them at all costs. The vinyl tracks were actually easy to do, as you just cut them to length and join them with a drop of CA. I also stuck them to the wheels to get the characteristic sag you see on the photos, which worked quite well. The main tracks were of course link & length in styrene, so the sag was added by wedging them in position and softening the links with a bit of liquid glue, enough to lock-in the sag. One thing worth of mention is that throughout the model the sprue gates were very short, making for a small gap between parts and their runners. This made it difficult to use side-cutters, which tended to deform the parts, so I used a CMK razor saw blade for the most part, held between my fingers for better control of the pressure used. it led to much less damage, and was a surprisingly easy way of getting the parts free The side seams were designed to fit with the side plates added outside the deck, but on the real thing this is reversed, so when I had glued them together, I filled the seams and scribed in some new ones on the sides, and even though most of them are now hidden by fenders & such, I'm glad I did it. The exhaust shroud was thinned down extensively, as it is little more than steel sheeting, so it was generally thinned by sanding the inside, then the edges were bevelled to give a greater impression of thinness. The cart needed similar seam-filling work on the apron around the top plus some sizeable ejector pin marks needing removing, and the mudguards were also blended into the side fairings for a bit of extra finesse. There doesn't seem to be any texture to the main surfaces, partly because the steel is quite thin, but I added a little texture to the exhaust silencer and drilled out the exhaust pipe, which will get a bit of a rusted up look during painting. Here she is with a bit of primer squirted on last night:
  7. Making a plywood fuselage on plastic! Albatros D.Va (OAW) 1:32 Wingnut Wings Wingnut Wings released this kit last summer, as the third in their line of Albatros kits. A review can be found Here Having built the WNW Albatros D.V before, I want to try to improve my build technique on this one. The main thing I noticed on my first build was that all the interior components were a tight fit, and closing the fuselage around it was a bit of a struggle. The tolerances are so tight on these kits that any paint on mating surfaces will reduce the accuracy of the fit. With that in mind I took the simple step of lining all the bulkhead locations inside the fuselage halves with thin strips of Tamiya tape, before spraying with Halfords primer. The woodwork was done with a sprayed coat of Tamiya 'Deck tan', followed by a coat of Johnsons Kleer. The wood grain was done with Griffin Alkyd tube oils paints. Blends of mostly Raw Sienna with a dash or 2 of Burnt Umber and/or Light Red. I mix them 'on the fly' in an old Pringles lid.I shade at a time is done, they only take a bout 4 hours to dry so there is none of this 'waiting 1 week' for the tube oils to dry. I then redid the stringers in Deck tan, and went over them with near Raw Sienna. The idea was to create a series of different looking wood effects. One done, the tapes were pulled out of the bulkhead locations. All the bulkheads were scraped on their mating surfaces, and they all fitted like a dream. The fuselage closes up nicely around them with no pressure needed. Main components ready for assembly; Other interior fittings; The fuselage just pressed together in a 'dry' fit. The seam is virtually non existent, and the best I have yet achieved. I'll be masking off the bulkhead loactaions on all future builds, it has made a big difference! I'm going to include a couple of MDC's 'Wings Cockpit' resin figures, the 'Groundcrew man assisting Pilot' These are beautifully cast, but need priming and painting. Test filling the pilot revealed that he will have to go in before the fuselage halves are glued. And he will hide most of my interior painting and detailing. Oh well! The ground crew man sits astride the fuselage, helping the pilot secure his straps and flying helmet' Test fit; Finally, I am going to try Uschi van Der Rosten's Woodgrain decals on the fuselage. Thanks for looking John
  8. Wing Gundam EW Build Review Colonies Liberation Organisation Mobile Suit XXXG-01W 1:144 Real Grade (RG) Bandai Shane sent this new release over for review, which you can find here if you're interested - there's a load of multi-coloured sprue pics before I set to cutting the bits off. It's number 20 from the Real Grade grade range, and is the latest in a growing range of highly detailed Mecha kits that must number in their hundreds if you cover all grades and scales I've built a trio of Bandai's Star Wars kits, which are equivalent to the High Grade (HG) kits, so although I've not built a Gundam before, I'm familiar with the style of assembly, and in awe of their engineering ingenuity. This is my first Gundam, so I'm going to take it easy on the build, doing little or no pre-painting of parts before assembly. I'm easily confused these days anyway, so I don't want to try to run before I can walk in the genre, so I'll limit my "painting" to a little light weathering and maybe some detail painting after construction. Let the battle commence! First up are the leggies, which have the RG skeleton at their core. In case you didn't read the review, they're co-moulded on the sprue so that the ABS and Styrene parts don't adhere to each other, leaving you with a part that is mobile. The pic below shows the left leg in the relaxed straight position, while the right leg is in (almost) fully extended kneeling/leaping position, which shows the huge range of movement they have built-in. Sure, you might not want to play with them even though you can, but it gives you a massive range of dynamic poses that you can show off the finished article. I've not yet put any of the armour parts on yet so you can see the skeleton, but that's the next step. I'm also not sure how much of the skellington will be visible after (I suspect very little), so I've only cleaned up the sprue gate marks, and left the moulding seams. On the subject of sprue gates, there are quite a few, as there were two injection processes, one for each plastic type, but the factory have made a neat job of removing the first injection sprues, leaving only a little pip to clean up. I might be wasting my time cleaning them anyway, but this is all new territory, so I won't lose any sleep over it. I shall hopefully learn from any mistakes I make on the way Having just had to mark all the points of movement, it's quite incredible that this is all fitted into a part that is barely 7cm tall when stood up. Hats off the designers at Bandai Sorry about the dust all over the parts... didn't notice until later
  9. I reviewed this kit here and the Upgrade set here at the beginning of September, and thought that as this is my first P-47 kit of any manufacturer, I'd crack on with it. Life's been doing its best to stop me, but I've managed to get the cockpit and wheel bays almost ready, so thought I'd better start a thread. The kit has a Brassin resin cockpit. which is rather nice, and augmented by pre-painted and raw PE for the instrument panel and levers. It is pretty straight forward to paint and put together, but make sure you get the fore and aft bulkheads square to the floor, as it will make the side walls easier to get in once you're done painting. Pre-painted PE belts are included, and a little bit of the paint came off on some of the sharp folds, but that's a first for me, so perhaps there wasn't such good adhesion with my set. I've been experimenting with Gunze Sangyo Mr Color paints for this build, as I felt like a change, and had heard good things about them. Sure enough, they're very nice to spray, but I suffer from a lack of breadth of colours, which I'll have to rectify soon. The extra upgrade set includes a bunch of parts for the gear bays, which replace a lot of the moulded in detail, and those are quite easy to fit whilst the wings are separate from the fuselage, although you'll have to make sure you don't bend the skins when adding them to the fuselage later. So far I've managed to avoid it, but you never know with my clumsy mitts. I've just finished constructing the PE deck behind the pilot, which requires a little sanding of the fuselage top (indicated in red) before it will sit flat on the fuselage. The extra effort is worth it though, as the detail is much crisper once done. I also removed the moulded in exhaust flaps on the underside of the nose, which were replaced by a new set from the Upgrade set, and here I was cautious cutting away, as you can quite easily go to large and end up with a bit of repair to do. They do look much better hollow with scale thickness to the walls, so again very much worth the effort. The wings were a piece of cake to put together, needing very little in the way of anything before they were glued together. The forward cannon inserts were pretty poor though, so I aligned the top as well as I could, then glued thin strip into the gaps, using CA as filler and some coarse sanding sticks before I polished it to a nice shine. I chose to remove the short cannon stub moulded into the inserts, and decided to pick up some of the excellent Master barrels that are available for this (or any other) P-47 kit. I've drilled out all the holes for a snug fit, and will insert them once I'm ready. The detail and curved muzzles are worth the effort if you're going to the trouble of adding all that PE. Other than those I'm sticking to OOB... Promise! A bit more detail painting, then a coat of flat varnish, and I think I'll be in a position to close up the fuselage.
  10. After finishing my Jug last week, I was looking round the workshop for a new project and decided that I'd be a good lad and finish off a few that had stalled close to the finish line as it were. The Gripen started as an OOB project, but I ended up adding a few other review items to the mix to spice it up, add some additional detail and generally showcase a few other bits and bobs. The list is fairly short, and included the resin AIM-9L Sidewinders and AIM-120Cs from Eduard, some brass AoA probes and pitot tubes from Master (48075 which doesn't seem to be listed on their site), and a NATO refueling probe tip, again from Master. paint was a mixture of Xtracrylic and Lifecolor, with a bit of Tamiya Smoke and NATO Brown used for the dirt. As usual with my stuff, it's not a show-winner, but I enjoyed the build, and am pretty satisfied with the 3' view Onto the pics: Hope you like, and the build thread can be found here if you have the patience
  11. We picked up one of these little resin kits from Ali at Telford on Saturday, and reviewed it here. It's a subject I wanted to do as I have a Supermarine Type 224, the original and unsuccessful Spitfire, in the cabinet already, and this would look nice by the side of it, showing what a knock-back and some re-design work can do to an idea. I do have the Paragon set, but as that's getting more rare by the day, I thought you guys would like to see how this full resin kit goes together, as it's a lot easier to come by, and saves you having to take the razor saw to a Tamiya Mk.1 Spit. The fact that Ali also asked me to do a review build might have some bearing on it too, maybe I always do what Ali asks, or he's mean to me Anyway - all frivolity aside, I started cutting the parts from their casting blocks as I was processing the photos I'd taken, and about an hour later I had a surprisingly small number of parts on my desk, and the spares for the other decal options still on their blocks in the supplied bag. So far so good Test fitting of the major parts showed good fit for the parts, and just a little fettling of the wing to fuselage was done to improve it further. The cowling is a tiny bit narrower than the fuselage, possibly due to mould shrinkage, but adding some slivers of styrene sheet under it and a spreader bar within the cowling, and it fits almost perfectly. I've primed inside the fuselage now, and noticed that there's a thinned out line around the cockpit access door on the port side in case you felt like opening it up. The tail feathers were a piece of cake to fit on, so I did it, not bothering to offset the rudder, as I just fancied cracking on. The wings are a single part, and the nav lights on the wingtips were solid, so out came the razor saw, cutting along the panel lines to remove a little triangle from the leading edge of the tips. I cut a couple of chunks of thick acrylic sheet and drilled a hole in each one, filling it with clear red or green Tamiya paint, before gluing them into the recesses with a generous helping of CA to plug any gaps. Careful to keep the bulb central on the wing, I then added more CA to further strengthen the joint. My Dremel's battery was low, so I hand sanded the block to the shape of the wing tip using progressively finer grades of stick, polishing it back to clear with a polishing sponge. I'll do the other one in a minute, once I've finished this post. Not pictured are the cockpit parts, which have been glued into assemblies to ease painting, the wheels and prop, which have been painted with Alclad Gloss Black primer, and the gear legs. The gear legs have two grooves in them that accomodate the lugs on the gear leg covers, but as I'm using the original "first flight" scheme as my subject, I cut some small pieces of 0.5mm styrene strip, glued them into the cleaned up grooves, and then sanded them to shape once cured. This gives a more realistic rounded profile to the legs for my chosen scheme. Apart from the painting, I can't see this taking very long at all
  12. I've managed to go all these years without having a P-47 in my stash, until this reboxing of the Academy kit came along from Eduard. It's got some nice resin bits, and some PE that give the kit a lift, which coupled with the additional upgrade set result in quite a comprehensive package. I treated myself to some aftermarket barrels from Master, and she was painted with Gunze Mr Color paints, with the exception of the white, which was Alclad White Primer, as it's the best white around if you ask me. I had quite a few screw ups along the way, most of which revolved around the decals and the paint, but managed to recover each time, and can confirm that they were all self-induced. it's the most complex paint scheme I've done yet, and I really enjoyed the challenge, although it did make me scratch my head every now and then. You can find the build thread here if you're interested Enough waffle - the pics! Now what?
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