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  1. Hello everybody! Which book or booklet can you recommend as the best reference of the Fw-190? I've recently noted again that my library has a significant gap when it comes to Kurt Tank's famous creation. "Best", of course, is a debatable and highly subjective category. What I am looking for is a publications that tells the different versions apart and contains a lot of (WWII-era) photographic material. I am less interested in pilots' stories, surviving examples in museums or profile drawings (if not backed up by photos). Also, the radial-engined versions and the fighter-bombers in particular are of greater interest to me than the Doras/Ta-152. What would be your recommendation? Thanks in advance! Ole
  2. Fw-190A-7 | 1/72 | Hasegawa II./JG I "Oesau", Dortmund Field, Germany, January 1944 Finished this on 8/31/2021. After a prolonged absence from the bench I decided I should get back in the groove with a "simple" build -- low part count, high quality kit, straightforward paint scheme. This Hasegawa Fw-190A-7 checked all the boxes. I wasn't too excited about the kit originally because the box art made the paint scheme seem much less interesting that it turned out to be! The decals were damaged; the waxed paper covering had stuck to them and they were slightly yellow. Therefore all the national markings were out of the spares box, and the cowl black and white stripes were painted. I used the number 3, the unit crest on the cowl and the stencils from the original sheet, I just carefully cleaned the paper off with water before soaking the decal. Worked fine. Not much to say about the kit except that it was practically painless to put together. I only had one trouble spot on the cowl where the gun insert went and that may have been my fault! Practically OOB, except for some tape seatbelts and lead wire break lines. Oh, and I had to fabricate the step out of styrene since Hasagawa molded it retracted. WIP is here. Finishing: seams filled with CA. Paint: Mr Color RLM 74/45/56, Mr Color White/Mr. Surfacer black on cowl, Tamiya Red for spinner and stripe, Hataka RLM 70 propeller. I hope you like it. Comments, questions and constructive criticism always accepted!
  3. I hit a slump back in April and didn't have the enthusiasm for a lot of my interests, this one included. Getting back into it, I found the current double Japanese build lacks the right paint color. So I took others' advice and am going to try a "quick" build to shake the cobwebs out. Here's what I chose; low part count, (hopefully) good fit, and I have the paint for it! Last night I painted the cockpit and assembled it. When I went to put the decals on the IP, I had a nasty surprise. Even though the paper covering the decals was waxed, it stuck to the decals terribly: I did a test on the Hasagawa logo decal and I was able to clean the paper off with water. Trouble is, I'll need to clean them as I apply them, because obviously as the decal starts getting wet it starts coming off. Since they looked a little yellow anyway, I decided to find replacements in my spares, and remembered that I didn't use the decals in my Airfix Fw-190F-8. Perfect! The national insignias on the sides were wrong though, but I was able to find those as well. The stencils on the Hasegawa sheet look OK, which is a relief, but I will need to paint the red band on the fuselage and the black and white stripes on the cowl, which is OK, because anymore I'd rather paint those kinds of things. Anyway, back to the cockpit: I got the fuselage buttoned up, which went very well and very little filling/sanding. I had to put an insert in the top of the cowl and it sunk in one corner: The shiny part in the corner is where it sunk. Luckily, I could see exactly where to fill, so that was fixed in short order. This morning I got the wings together and on, again with very good fit. I spent two hours masking the canopy -- it was very difficult to get around that rear view mirror. Plus the canopy was scratched up badly, and I had to buff them out. So here's where I'm at now: Here's the part I fixed on the cowl: luckily the seams at the wing roots were good: Now I have some sanding on the wing leading edges and get the cockpit finished so I can glue the canopy on.
  4. Dear fellow Britmodellers, here's my latest, the 1/72 Eduard Fw-190 A8, with metal gun barrels and pitot tube from Master, representing "Black 4" of JG300. Decals are from Eagle Strike (72002) "Home Defense Focke Wulf". The model was painted according to original photograph: https://www.jg300.de/fw-190a-8-schwarze-4.html Photographs by Wolfgang Rabel. I painted with Gunze acrylics and weathered with artist oils. The RV band is airbrushed for a more realistic appearance. There should be a DF loop under the fuselage; this part went missing when I took the model to the photo shoot. (The loop was discovered after the pictures had been taken and added to the model.) I know you've all seen plenty of Eduard Fw-190s on these pages already, so thanks for your interest!
  5. The Fw-190 is an AMT / ERTL kit at 1/48. I also used metal figures and the academy cubelwagen. For the base, I used styrofoam-dow, toothpicks, epoxy putty, static grass, painting (hagiography) powders and soil.
  6. I have a set of decals for Maj. Hajo Herrmann's FW-190A-6. The most readily available kits in 1/72 are the Hobby Boss Easy Assembly, the Academy and the MasterCraft. Some searching on this site led me to some posts that basically said "don't bother" with either the Academy and MasterCraft kits because they are too terrible. After looking at some pictures I've found of those kits, I tend to agree. I don't know anything about the accuracy of the hobby boss. Their lack of cockpit annoys me, but in general the few I've made have been fairly accurate and detailed (although, not always the case! so buyer beware!). That led me to considering getting an Eduard A-5 and converting it. After studying Eduard's instructions for the A-5 and A-8, I have a feel for what extra parts on the parts trees are for what models and I think it can be done. After reading IPMS Stockholm's Modeller's Guide to Focke-Wulf Fw 190 Variants, I think all I would need to do to convert an A-5 to an A-6 is: Put longer guns in the outboard wing positions, put a FuG 16 loop antenna on the bottom of the fuselage. However, IPMS says that the lower wing was re-designed to accommodate a heavier cannon mount and larger ammo box. So.... maybe this isn't straight forward? There was a discussion over at tapatalk about this same topic (except with Eduard's 1/48 offerings) and frankly I was entirely confused about the discussion about the different wing types. So, I guess the fundamental question is: Should I bother with trying to cross-kit Eduard kits to make an A-6 or is the Hobby boss reasonably accurate?
  7. The story so far... I started this almost a month ago. Ten of the days since then were spent off the grid in the Cascade Mountains, so I actually haven't been working on this for that long. After some wonderful experiences with Airfix's new tool offerings (especially the P-40C and Typhoon), I purchased their FW-190A-8. I only found out later that it seems to be universally disliked because of the engineering/fit of the cowling assembly and cockpit. That fact and the plain paint scheme (and the purchase of a couple Eduard A-5's) really soured me on the kit and it was pushed to the back of the closet. Recently I got to thinking that it would be nice to do an A-8, and maybe I should look for a late war scheme for it, since between the cabinet and the stash I will have a ton of RLM 74/75/65 builds. I found just a scheme in Aeromasters "Defense of the Reich Pt. III" decal set. So, I once again was really excited to try and tackle this kit! The scheme I picked is in the bottom of this photo (which is unfortunately very dark) and is RLM 81/82/76. ...and here it is in black and white: Having read enough criticisms of this kit, I kind of knew what to expect and before I did anything, shaved about a mm off both sides of the cockpit floor. A lot of dry fitting was needed to ensure that the width was correct. Somehow I missed taking pictures of the cockpit tub, but I added some Eduard steel photoetch seatbelts. I then did more dry fitting to work out a plan to get the parts to fit together right, taped the fuselage halves together and carefully applied glue along the seams from the inside (as much as possible) using my "glue looper" and CA. Then came the dreaded pieces on the top of the cowl -- the machine gun cover humps and the channels in front of the machine guns. They are very slightly wider than the fuselage, although I'm not sure if it's from bad design or because I didn't glue the fuselage halves together "Just right". At any rate, I knew I would have to do some filling and sanding. But first, I needed to have an accident and break off one of the guns that is molded on to the piece! So, a quick repair and then very careful gluing and I was done with the fuselage. Airfix's instructions have you complete the entire build, and as a last step assemble the propeller, oil cooler and engine as an assembly that is then inserted into the front of the fuselage. It seems this is to allow a spinning propeller, which is always a bonus, but given the overlap in some of the other pieces, I thought I'd better dry fit this first. Well, right off the bat it wouldn't fit because the opening seemed to be too small (again, maybe that's my fault), but even worse, the oil cooler sticks out from the rest of the cowling! (It's supposed to! See Dogsbody's reply below. Oops.) So, I decided "to heck with a spinning propeller" and glued the assembly in so I could sand it flush and worry about attaching the prop later: Those pictures show the overall poor fit of the pieces and the overlap at the front of the cowl. A lot of superglue was used to fill, and a lot of sanding was done! But I was happy with it and continued on with painting. This was the first time I used Hataka's late war Luftwaffe paint set. I have been tremendously happy with all of their paints that I've used so far so I was surprised when this happened: It came out Green and Purple. No "Brown violet" about it. It was purple. I shook the heck of that brown violet a 2nd time, thinking it wasn't mixed enough and painted a test and it came out the same. It looks like something the Joker from Batman would fly! So I started this thread to get some opinions from folks that know more than I: I received a lot of very helpful advice and there was some great discussion. Overall I learned a lot from it. Unfortunately, the evidence from late war RLM colors is scant at best and so I had to make a bit of a guess. I was able to get the colors more to my liking by dusting it with Hataka's RLM 79b (medium brown). I then worked out a paint ratio to match and did the mottling: Up till this point, I had not been able to find any photographs of this paint scheme on the internet. @SafetyDad found a couple photos of it in a book and it turns out that the a/c was an F-8, not an A-8 like the Aeromaster sheet said! Once I started searching for an F-8, I found lots of interpretations of this aircraft's paint scheme and I even found that Revell made a 1/48 version of it 7 or 8 years ago. I also found that the common interpretation is in RLM 74/75/76. Given the discussion on my paint thread above, I think it's really anybody's guess what the colors really were, but one thing was certain from the book photos: the pattern that Aeromaster has you paint doesn't match the real aircraft at all. What a disappointment. The whole reason why I chose these decals was for that specific scheme. I did some soul searching for a couple of days and decided to just keep going with it because I like the scheme so much. It bugs me that it's not historically accurate, but I guess you can't win them all. I decided to convert this into an F-8, so at least that part of the build would be accurate. I found spare parts in my Eduard A-5 kits in the stash for the centerline bomb rack and bomb as well as the correct support strut for the armored headrest. Airfix provides a blown canopy as an extra, which was nice. So all I had to order was the ETC50 bomb racks for under the wings. I found them in resin on ebay and ordered them. The first step was to remove the shell ejection ports and surrounding blisters: I used a Dremel with a grinding wheel. I put Tamiya tape around the blister which protected the paint quite well from little nicks from the wheel: I then sanded these smooth. Next, I had to cut the outer cannons off, which left some areas that needed filling and sanding (apologies for the backlit photos. I was not thinking): Once these were filled and sanded, I glued the ETC50 racks and the centerline bomb rack on: Then came the delicate art of touching the paint up and making it match the old paint job. The resin ETC50 racks are exquisitely detailed, which is a shame because the bombs will cover all that detail up: You might notice the left-most sway brace is broken. I've snapped 4 off these off so far and have been able to successfully glue them back on. They are so thin, it's incredible. Unfortunately, I lost one last night. Ugh. So late last night and this morning I gloss coated the model in preparation for decals. I need to do some painting on the various detail parts (bombs, landing gears, etc.). And so the saga ends for now....
  8. Hello fellow modelers, This project had started from the April, but due to my limited time the progress was very slow and I didn't managed to post earlier. The kit I chose was Eduard's Fw 190 D-9 Late #8189 profi pack. I started assembling the first parts (cockpit, some gun bay parts, gears etc.) and then I continued with the priming. Afterwards I painted the cockpit and cockpits sidewalls with AK true metal silver, I used this layer as a base for the chipping. Then I painted using mostly AK's 3rd gen colors. Unfortunately I didn't have RLM 66 for the cockpit interior so I mixed it using reference pictures, for the mix I used Pale grey and black (1:3 ratio approx.). I painted the cockpit details using a 10/0 brush with 50-50 water diluted paint, I used the photo-edged parts and actual pictures as reference. Ι don't like the "flat photo-edged parts, for some details I cut the decals and I applied them in the correct position. For the weathering I used for the first time AK's waterpencils, I really liked the final result. Also I used Winsor & Newton Wintor and Abteilung oil paints.
  9. Hello friends, A small little tabletop that still makes me happy, when I finished it after a long time. Model is from eduard 1/48 scale. Cheers Andy
  10. Dear fellow Britmodellers, here's my latest, the 1/72 KORA Fw-190 F9 Panzerblitz. This version was the last variant of the famous "Butcher Bird", armed with unguided anti-tank aerial rockets. These rockets were similar to the R4M Orkan air-to-air rocket used by the Messerschmitt Me 262. The kit contains the well-known Eduard sprues (for the A-8 version), some resin and photo-etch add-ons plus a decal sheet for 4 marking options. I painted with Gunze/Mr.Hobby acrylics, according to instructions, as I could not find an original photograph of this particular aircraft. The pitot tube is a metal item from Master. All photographs by Wolfgang Rabel. Thank you for your interest and comments, best greetings from Vienna Roman
  11. This is Otaki's 1/48 FW-190A-8 that I originally started as just a 'paint mule' to try out a paint mix. One thing lead to another and, well, here you are. I added details to the cockpit, belts from aluminum tape and solder, and a scratch built gunsight. Bulged canopy is a spare from Hobbyboss, with scratchbuilt headrest and bulkheads. For the gear, I added a strip to the landing gear doors to widen them, shortened the legs and added brakelines, spare wheels from and Eduard kit, cut out the make believe gear well and added a spare 'dimpled' panel from Eduard's, and scratch built the rest of the well. Tailwheel is an Eduard's spare. Outboard lower canon breaches are spare bombs with plasticard shell chutes, and canon's are brass tube. Drop tank and mount are also Eduard's spares. Decals are spare Hobbyboss, old letraset applied to clear decal paper (to get close to the proper style, I had to use the top half of a '2' and the bottom half of a capitol 'L'), and the werke numbers are actually decal sheet item numbers made into decals by painting them with Microscale liquid decal film. Paints are Tamiya acrylics RLM 74 is XF 24:3, XF 27:1, and the RLM 75 is XF 75:8, XF 07:1 - the whole reason for the build! Applied over Tamiya Titanium silver and haispray, and then chipped with water and a toothpick. Hope you like. Just for comparison, here's Eduard's FW-190A-5, and the Otaki kit from the 1970's ... … and the 'Wulf' pack!
  12. Dear fellow Britmodellers, my last finished build in 2018 is the 1/72 Hasegawa Fw-190D with the larger Ta-152 tail. The replacement tail is a resin item from Airwaves (SC72-117). Metal gun barrels from Master. Decals come from Eagle Cals (EC#58), representing a machine of III./JG 2, in 1945. Photo etch parts from Eduard. All photographs by Wolfgang Rabel. The model was painted with Gunze/Mr.Hobby acrylics. Thank you very much for your interest, best greetings from Vienna!
  13. Hi, I would like to show you some photos of one of my latest works. It's a Fw-190A-8 from Eduard in 1/72 scale, profipack edition. What a wonderful kit to build. The camouflage was done freehand with Gunze paints. For the weathering I used AK Interactive products and some artist's oils. The rigging was made with Uschi VdR superfine elastic thread. I'm sorry for the cellphone quality of the photos. I hope you like it! João Moura
  14. Dear fellow Britmodellers, here's my 1/72 KORA Focke Wulf Fw-190 F9 "Panzerblitz". The kit features Eduard's plastic sprues for an A-8 (some modification on the lower wings is required), a bag of resin bombs and rockets, three small photo-etch frets and a decal sheet. The bombs and rockets are not better than the plastic parts from the Eduard F8 kit. I had a left-over weapons sprue from a F8, so they were duly replaced. A small photo-etch frame supplies seat belts and pedals, but no instrument panel. Instrument panels are provided as black/white paper print-outs only. The second frame holds the ventilators - both 12 and 14 blade are provided. The rocket rails are supplied as a photo-etch assembly on the third frame. I struggled to get everything folded straight and in line, so the rails were substituted with the Eduard plastic part as well. In the end I only used the photo-etch part for the small fairing just ahead of the rocket racks. The four decal options are very interesting, the decals themselves of very good quality. They are printed on a continuous carrier film and have to be cut out individually. I noticed that this kit was not very well received within the BM community (have a look here): I understand that the price tags of some distributors may put some modelers off. I had the chance to grab a couple of the KORA boxings at Eastern European model shows, directly from the manufacturer, sold for a price marginally above the regular Eduard kit. If you really want to have a Fw-190 F9 (and can't wait until Eduard release their version) this is the only game in town. The only other contender is the Hasegawa kit, which is already hard to find. According to my research, only a few Schlachtgeschwader used Panzerblitz weapon systems operationally in spring 1945: SG 1, SG 3, SG.10 and SG 77. My model represents a machine of one of those units. I painted with Gunze/Mr.Hobby acrylics and weathered with artist's oils. All photographs by Wolfgang Rabel. Thanks for your interest, best greetings from Vienna! Roman
  15. Well known Hasegawa's FW-190 still very good and available. Meanwhile we got fantastic Eduard issue, but this one is still good choice for a stress-free build. It was finished one year ago, using Gunze colors, and Tamiya varnish. Now I see on the pictures I forgot to paint antenna wire. Decals from the box, only etched seat belts added. Loop antenna on the belly should be replaced by copper wire or etched one since this one from the kit is too thick.
  16. A recent scratch build project that i have completed, Focke-Wulf 190 T-1. This is a fictional design of a Fw-190 D-9 fitted with a turboprop engine and tricycle landing gear. For the paint scheme i used a Tricolour scheme from a Fw-190 A-8 With the colours of Yellow 15 from a Fw-190 D-9, the scheme was weathered using a graphite pencil and various washes. I was happy with the overall build of the model but was not as pleased with the paint schemes finish as i had to brush paint rather than using a airbrush due to my airbrush being out of commission. Thanks to anyone who took the time to look over my build, look forward to hearing any feedback.
  17. Completed my 1/72 Eduard Royal Class FW-190 in captured colors. Such a great little kit to build! Used aftermarket decals Quickboost cannons and MRP paint. Thanks for looking!
  18. Hi All, I spent almost 2+ months putting a little 1/72 scale Tamiya Fw-190 kit together pretty much out of the box and this is all I have to show for it.... Airbrushed with Gunze RLM shades, weathered with oil paints, enamel panel line washes, dry pigments and oil from my sweaty fingers... Not much done outside the box, I added some Eduard generic Luftwaffe seatbelts, drilled out the gun barrels, added some brake lines and an antenna wire. Check out the WIP thread, which honestly isn't amazingly helpful or informative but has some pretty pictures of the beautifully detailed but hidden Tamiya cockpit at least. Enjoy!
  19. Hi All, After a long hiatus from modelling in which we sold up and moved to a brand new house, I've finally gotten my workbench setup again. I'm going to start off slow and steady, with Tamiya's 1/72 scale FW190 a3 kit. It's a lovely bit of plastic as would be expected from Tamiya, the parts are clean and really well detailed, and so far seem to fit together really well. I've finished off the tiny but beautifully detailed cockpit, complete with some generic Eduard luftwaffe PE belts (which seemed a tad oversized to me) I used Gunze RLM66 (H416) for the base colour. When it came to the seatbelts I decided to flag using CA glue for sticking down the PE and tried using PVA wood glue instead, it worked really well and the slower drying time was very welcome. It'll be my glue of choice for this kind of thing going forward. I also learned that Tamiya X-22 gloss is really good for creating that instrument glass effect. I applied the viscous stuff straight from the jar with a sharpened toothpick and it dried into a nice hard glassy layer (unfortunately due to my home made diffusing filter over the lamp this isn't too visible in the photos).
  20. Dear fellow Britmodellers, here's my latest build, Eduard's Fw-190 F8 from the "Profipack" edition. I added Master metal gun barrels, decals from the box, representing an aircraft of Stab/Schlachtgeschwader 10. Elements of SG10 saw action during the closing weeks of the war in Eastern Austria. This particular aircraft had a monochrome camoflage (most likely Dark Green) applied in the field. An orginal photograph (that leaves many questions unanswered) is here: https://www.asisbiz.com/il2/Fw-190A/SG10/pages/Focke-Wulf-Fw-190F8-Stab-III.SG10-Green-(K+-Czechoslovakia-1945-01.html I painted with Gunze/Mr.Hobby acrylics, weathering with artist's olis and chalk pastels. Photographs by Wolfgang Rabel. Greetings from Vienna!
  21. Hello, here's my 1/72 Tamiya Fw-190 D. Photo etch parts (seat belts, antennas, dashboard) from Eduard. Pitot tube from Master Model. Decals from Model Alliance "Defending The Reich's Skies Pt.2". Painted with acrylics from the Gunze range. Small details picked out with Vallejo paints. Photographed by Wolfgang Rabel, IGM Cars & Bikes, Vienna. Thanks for looking!
  22. OK Guys, The Hasegawa 1/32 Fw-190 A5 will be my entrance for this GB. I have got some goodies with it as well. There are two resin gun pods from Eagle cals for under the wing. This is the rüstsats U12. With this I also have the decals from eagle cals with one of the schemes for Lt.Erich Hondt's Fw-190 A5/U12 from 2/.JG11. Here are some pictures of the model and goodies. the Box. And the goodies with it. Here are the underwing gondola's with it's manual. And the decalsheet that is needed for it. This is the scheme I will use. Now we need to wait for a week before it starts. I still need to finish two Ju-88's and a Yak 3. Luckely I managed to finish my Saab Draken yesterday. So that one is now out of the way. Cheers,
  23. Heelo, I have bought a correction set for Revell's 1/72 Fw-190A-8 (Quickboost set No. 72161) I have compared it to the kit forward cowling ring (which has received some criticism for its shape), and there is no discernible difference (?) Even the radius of the opening is almost the same (the difference is less than 0.5mm) Img Source: Quickboost So, given that there is no difference between the two (visible to the naked eye), my question is - what does this replacement actually correct?
  24. Hi folks, after few galleries I decided to start my first build report here. I am going to build Eduard's Weekend Fw-190 A-8 using Karaya correction and upgrade kit. Karaya kit is rich of parts, both PE and (mainly) resin: And work in progress...
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