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Hello, this will be my 2. attempt to build this model. This time i will use a wooden deck (genuine 1:350 deck from ARTWOX), a new challenge!, I used only a few parts from the ICM Koenig kit. the hull, main decks, gun turrets, boats and casemates. All the rest has been printed by shapeways. I have to print all the little tiny deck details in 3D and glue them on the wooden deck. Does anybody have experience with not pre-cutted genuine decks? I use the hull and the turrets of a Koenig 1:350 ICM Kit, turning the main aft deck upside down, to avoid removing all the molded on deck details. The 2 superstructures will be 3D printed. Regards Andreas

This is a very late refugee from the long-finished What-If III Groupbuild, but only just finished today. The build and very long, but I hope entertaining, backstory thread is HERE It was built from the Heller 1/400 Richelieu kit with Atlantic Models photoetch for the Frog/Novo 1/415 HMS Tiger, plus lots of scrap PE, scrap parts, and scratchbuilding. It depicts the RN Battleship HMS Bellerophon in 1982, just before she led the Falklands task Force as flagship. Hope it meets with Your Whifferness' approval All the best, Al Also if you haven't seen it already, you must check out @ArnoldAmbrose's companion piece, a superb rebuild of Airfix's HMS Tiger as HMS Minotaur in 1/600 here:

Hi, I've just joined the Britmodeller clan and this is my first ready for inspection posting, although it's not my first model, I've been building quietly for about 10 years - not including time doing so with my Dad when I was younger. I tend to build out of the box (adding detail kits OOB as well) and I'm more than happy to take some artistic license with colour details and rigging for effect. I'd say that overall I'm better at the construction side and not so good at painting (I never was), but I've improved somewhat on both fronts over the years. 10 years ago I built a first attempt at HMS Hood and couldn't figure out how to attach the three photo-etch parts that came with the kit - a full detail-up set was my idea of a nightmare - now I won't build a ship without one - funny how that goes. Here is my latest work, Trumpeter's 1/350 Richelieu with the Flyhawk detail kit and Artwox wooden deck. It went together pretty well for the most part, especially for an older Trumpy offering. The etch kit instructions were pretty hard to follow, seems that the paperwork is definitely where the etch sets show their differences.

I almost finished the Bismarck at 1/200 from Trumpeter, it's a big job, started in january 2019. It's was my first plastic ship model tu build since 1975.. Here are some pictures of the assembly progress. For the occasion, I bought two PE improvement kits, MK1 and Eduard. I took the best of the 2 kits. I bought the wooden deck to USA. I have used the probable scheme of the 24 may 1941: Began by the Arado 196 A3 plane. It's small.. I cut the wing. I want to park one in the one hangar. Not the good color, i used later for other one RML72 , RML73 and RML65 The Bismarck was equipped with reconnaissance aircraft, patrol missions and artillery spotting. Four Arado Ar 196 seaplanes were embarked on board the Bismarck, but a maximum number of six could be embarked if necessary. They were very robust, single-engine, heavily armed double float planes. Two aircraft were stored in the double hangar of 120 m² located under the main mast and the other two in single hangars of 60 m² each on both sides of the chimney in the middle of the ship. To save space, their wings could be folded. These aircraft belonged to the 1st Squadron ( 1.Staffel ) of the reconnaissance group 196 ( Bordfliegergruppe 196 ) which had been formed before the war in 1937, and the pilots and technicians were members of the Luftwaffe . The aircraft were launched on a double telescopic catapult, 32 meters long, which could be extended beyond the sides of the ship to a length of 48 meters. This catapult was located in the middle of the ship (section X-XI) between the main mast and the funnel and could be deployed on both sides. After completing a mission, the aircraft would land near one side of the ship and then be craned aboard by one of the large 12-ton cranes. This was always a dangerous manoeuvre, as the sea conditions had to be sufficiently mild to board the vessel. Once out of the water, two more small cranes located under the searchlight platform were used to return the aircraft to its hangar. In the early morning of 27 May 1941, on board Bismarck , they attempted to launch an Arado Ar 196 carrying the ship's war log. Unfortunately, the catapult was damaged and the plane could not be launched. Ar196 A-3 CHARACTERISTICS: - Type: two-seater reconnaissance seaplane. - Dimensions: wingspan 12.4 metres, length 11 metres, height 4.4 metres. - Weight: Empty 2,335 kg, loaded 3,300 kg. - Armament: 2 x 20 mm MG FF (in the wings). 1 x 7.92 mm MG (front). 2 x 7.92 mm MG (twins). 2 x 50 kg bombs of the SC50, SD50 or LC50F types (under the wings). 1) - Engine BMW 132K, 9 cylinders, 960 hp. - Max. speed: 320 km / h. - Range: 497 nm. - Crew: 2 men. 1) On board the Bismarck, there was a stock of 40 SC50 / SD50 and 54 times LC50F bombs, all stored on the upper deck, in section IX (box 91.3-95.55), port side.

HMS Dreadnought 1/350 Revell (05171) HMS Dreadnought was an 18,110-ton battleship built at Portsmouth Dockyard. She represented one of the most notable design transformations of the armoured warship era. Her "all-big-gun" main battery of ten twelve-inch guns, steam turbine powe rplant and 21-knot maximum speed so thoroughly eclipsed earlier types that subsequent battleships were commonly known as "dreadnoughts", and the previous ones disparaged as "pre-dreadnoughts". The swiftness of her construction was equally remarkable. Laid down in October 1905, she was launched in February 1906, after only four months on the ways. Dreadnought was commissioned for trials a year after her keel was laid and was completed in December 1906. The new battleship served as Flagship of the Home Fleet in 1907-1912 and remained part of that fleet thereafter. Dreadnought served with the 4th Battle Squadron in the North Sea during the first two years of World War I. On 18 March 1915, while so employed, she rammed and sank the German Submarine U-29. From May 1916, Dreadnought was flagship of the 3rd Battle Squadron, based on the Thames to counter the threat of bombardment by German battlecruisers. Placed in reserve in 1919, the once revolutionary warship was sold for scrapping in 1922. Like other ships, the name has continued on in RN History with the first of the Royal Naiy's Nuclear submarines to bear the name, this will be followed by the lead vessel for the next class of Trident Submarines. The Kit Here Revell have re-boxed the Zvezda kit from 2011 . There are 4 main sprues, a small clear sprue and a base for the completed model. The model is full hull in the box but can be cut down if waterline is needed. First up the main hull is completed from the two sides with 3 internal stiffening bulkheads. Underneath two large hull strakes go on along with the two mounts for the stand. At the aft end the supports for the four propeller shafts, and the shafts them selves go on; followed by the props. The two rudder finish off work here. Once the hull is complete we move to the main deck. After various deck fittings are added work moves to the main gun turrets. There are 5 twin turrets to be built up. Each turret also has a pair of 12 pounder guns added to the roof these were for defence against torpedo boats. The two rear turrets X & Y, and the two side turret P & Q can now be added to the main deck, rings under the deck lock the turrets in place. The main deck can then be fitted to the hull. Along each side the arms for the anti submarine nets can be fitted, although these were removed early on in WWI. Now the raised fore deck can be built up including adding A Turret. At the front the anchor windlasses are added with another 14 12 pounder guns. On top of this the bridge deck is added, and to the rear of this the forward funnel. A pair of searchlights go behind the funnel, with another pair of 12 pounders directly in front of the bridge. The base of the main mast then goes in, and in front of it the bridge. The rear funnel then goes on. The rear mast gets built up and added between X and Y turrets. To finish off all of the ships boats are built up and added to stowage locations and davits where necessary. The top of the main mast is then constructed, along with the top of the rear mast. Decals One tiny sheet gives the ships name and Union Flags only. Conclusion This is a good looking kit of an important Royal Navy ship, Highly Recommended. Currently, Revell are unable to ship to the UK from their online shop due to recent changes in import regulations. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or

Hello, here a view at the workbench: I am waiting for the 2 Cranes and the boat davits printed by shapeways The tiny coal winches are allready fitted. Thanks for looking! cheers Andreas

Hi all, This is my first ship model, a 1:350 scale HMS King George V. I've pretty much finished now but I'm not quite sure how to start the rigging. I've bought this infinity models lycra thread (linked at the bottom) but I'm not quite sure how to attach them Any tips would be appreciated. Cheers Luke https://www.scalemodelshop.co.uk/product/1-350-1-200-145ft-black-ship-rigging-medium-infini-model-ir-1101b?gclid=CjwKCAjw_sn8BRBrEiwAnUGJDjVAK61iW5KADrvvSen7vrTHArxa9Cec4ybUeSJOJppCC4Xnz_gP2hoCTMkQAvD_BwE) b

Hi all I’m almost done with my first ship build, the Tamiya 1:350 HMS King George V. It’s been a brilliant build so far, but due to my relative inexperience In the World of ship modelling I’m not really sure how to go on from here in terms of weathering and finishing the model. Could anyone give me any tips as to how to continue from here? Cheers Luke Rutter

Hi, I would like to proudly present my first completed ship! I've had two previous attempts at building a ship, but both have failed due to different reasons. My first try was Heller's Tirpitz in 1/400 but the detail & fit was horrible, it was also my first model so I had no idea how much work a battleship was. My second attempt at ships was Fujimi's lovely 1/700 IJN Fuso but I ordered the wrong wooden deck for it which I realized after it was glued, and I lost all motivation to move ahead with the build. After building a few decent aircraft I finally got the courage to go back to ships. I originally intended to build the Warspite OOB but ended up ordering Pontos wooden deck (which came with some PE) and Eduard RN railings. I started last christmas and have been working on the build a few hours per weekend. The kit itself was lovely, most of the detail was pretty good and everything went together smoothly. The whole model is brush painted using Vallejo model colors, weathering is mostly diluted acrylic paint and a few touches of Tamiya weathering master. Rigging is streched sprue (my first go at rigging) and only after it was done did I realize I probably should have painted it . In the end I'm pretty happy with what I've achieved apart from a few mistakes that bug me: I think the waterline is too low for WW2 warspite, the wooden deck has a small crack and the forward superstructure rigging is too thick. Hope you enjoy!

As my avatar suggests, ships and aircraft of the Royal navy is my thing, and I don't often let the lack of a kit get in the way! This one has been on my list for a very long time, in my opinion, one of the best looking ships ever built for the RN, just around 6 years too late to be useful. I've been researching and planning this build for years, must have just about every book with decent coverage of the ship, a few good plans and lots of photos and not forgetting the Samek 1/700 resin kit. The hull and superstructure are quite straightforward and many of the other fittings are common to the other ships of the time but the armament was always a challenge too far, all the turrets were unique to the ship as were the six-barrelled Bofors mounts. So the project always went back on the rainy day pile. and then along came Shapeways... In a new method for me, the hull is made from prototyping board (aka Tooling board/modelling board) it's about the same density and hardness as a softwood, but has no grain or layers. It can be sawed, sanded and dremelled easily, glues with epoxy or superglue and is very stable and rigid. I bought a block 50x250x500mm for £30 which has given me enough material for Vanguard, Blake and Norfolk's hulls. I didn't take any photos of the early stages (will do for the next one - but it's not very interesting) but if you imagine a plank 750x100x30mm, then the same plank cut down to the desired profile and hull lines, The finished piece is 709 mm long by 96mm wide. I got to this stage on both Vanguard and Blake's hull over about 20hours spread over a couple of weeks, and it felt a lot quicker and easier than my previous techniques, cutting card templates of hull lines at each frame to help the sanding process was a key step. It's difficult to see the hull lines in the primer, but I've completed the hawseholes for the anchors and after filling a couple of problem areas will add some plating, the armour and scuttles. I must be Shapeway's favourite customer at the moment - Main, Secondary and bofors mounts, hatches, boats, directors, ventilators, carley floats etc Oh and no skimping on this one, so Northstar accessories, wooden decks and brass tread plate. Hull plating and side armour next time...

Good afternoon. Does anyone know of any German pre-dreadnought battleships in 1/350? I don't mind if the kit is resin or plastic, I just want to know if there are any. Thank you.

Colleagues: I am starting a new WIP on the recently-released Trumpeter 1:200 BB63, Missouri. I am using the opportunity offered by the release of this model, the Pontos PE and Trumpeter aftermarket parts, to try to improve my modeling skills. I am not an expert in any sense, but I am an amateur in the best sense. I love modeling and am at a place in my day job, my income, and my blood pressure that I can relax a bit more and devote time to what has been a very long hobby. I Live in Colorado, work in IT networking in a global association, and am just impressed as all get-out by the quality builders, the civility, and the class of the people on this list. Their patience with me (I was posting photos of my WIP in the middle of someone else's WIP...what a newbie goober I am!) is impressive--people on the 'net today don't usually tolerate any mistakes. I have my hull built and am working out the armament builds with the Pontos PE, and i am going to Best Buy to pick up a better camera. I welcome all your feedback, and am looking forward to being corrected lots of times--I learn best that way. I will ask questions, share frustrations, and I know this will take a while....my deadline inside is a few months, but I know I would like it ready for seasonal competitions/displays in the summer of 2015. Best regards, Rick Bauer

Russian Navy Battleship Tsesarevich 1904 Trumpeter 1:350 History Tsesarevich was a pre-dreadnought battleship of the Imperial Russian Navy, built in France at the end of the 19th century. The ship's design formed the basis of the Russian-built Borodino-class battleships. She was based at Port Arthur, Manchuria after entering service and fought in the Russo-Japanese War of 1904–05. Tsesarevich was the flagship of Admiral Wilgelm Vitgeft in the Battle of the Yellow Sea and was interned in Tsingtau after the battle. At the end of the Russo-Japanese war, the ship was transferred to the Baltic in early 1906 and helped to suppress the Sveaborg Rebellion later that year. Around 1906, her fighting top was removed and her superstructure was cut down. The 75 mm guns in the superstructure were apparently removed as well. Tsesarevich made regular winter cruises to the Mediterranean before World War I and aided survivors of the Messina earthquake in December 1908. In 1909–10 the ship's machinery was overhauled and her amidships casemated 75 mm guns were removed and plated over four years later. Tsesarevich was not very active during the early part of World War I and she reportedly received two 37 mm anti-aircraft guns during the war. Because of her inactivity her bored sailors joined the general mutiny of the Baltic Fleet in early 1917. She was renamed Grazhdanin on 13 April 1917 after the February Revolution. The ship took part in the Battle of Moon Sound in October 1917. During the climatic part of the battle, Grazhdanin engaged the German minesweepers on 17 October with little effect while Slava engaged the German dreadnoughts König and Kronprinz. The latter fired at Grazhdanin and hit her twice, killing one and wounding four crewmen, although neither hit caused significant damage. The German dreadnoughts outranged Grazhdanin and she was forced to retreat and abandon Moon Sound in the face of German pressure. By December the ship was in Kronstadt where she came under the control of the Bolsheviks and she was hulked there in May 1918. Grazhdanin was scrapped beginning in 1924, although she was not officially stricken from the Navy List until 21 November 1925 The ship was ordered as part of the "Programme for the Needs of the Far East", authorised by Tsar Nicholas II in 1898 to defend Russia's newly acquired ice-free port of Port Arthur in Manchuria. Russian shipyards were already at full capacity so the Naval Ministry decided to order ships from abroad. Specifications were issued on 14 June 1898 and a few days later the chief designer of the French shipyard Forges et Chantiers de la Méditerranée proposed a design based on that of the French battleship Jauréguiberry. The Naval Technical Committee approved the design with a few changes to which the French readily agreed. The General Admiral, Grand Duke Alexei Alexandrovich selected the French design over a competing proposal from the Baltic Works. A contract was signed on 20 July 1898 at a cost of 30.28 million francs (11.355 million rubles) for delivery in 42 months. Tsesarevich 's most obvious design feature was her tumblehome hull. This had several advantages because it allowed greater freeboard since the narrow upper decks reduced the structural weight of the vessel's hull, it increased the field of fire of guns mounted on the sides, and it reduced the ship's roll in heavy seas. Its great disadvantage was that it reduced buoyancy and stability which contributed to excessive heel during turns. During the Battle of the Yellow Sea in August 1904, Imperial Japanese Navy observers thought the Tsesarevich was going to capsize when she suddenly turned out of the battleline. Tsesarevich was 118.5 metres (388 ft 9 in) long overall, had a beam of 23.2 metres (76 ft 1 in) and a draught of 7.92 metres (26 ft 0 in). The ship displaced 13,105 tonnes (12,898 long tons). Her crew consisted of 28–29 officers and 750 enlisted men. The Model Having released the Tsesarevich in her 1917 guise last year, Trumpeter have now released a kit of her as she was when first completed. The kit comes a top opening box with a very nice artists impression of the ship, anchored at the head of the battle line. On opening, the modeller is confronted with the two hull halves, whose bow and stern sections are given extra foam protection, eight sprues of medium grey styrene, three sub-sprues, five sheets of etched brass, a length of brass chain and a small decal sheet. The sprues are clear of flash and other imperfections and there are fewer moulding pips than normally found on Trumpeters ship kits. The moulded on detail is very nicely done and it appears that the unusual tumblehome shape of the hull has been moulded with all the right curves, although as I don’t have any plans I can’t tell if it’s totally correct, but it certainly looks the part. With the amount of etch contained in the kit it really can be made straight out of the box without the need of any additional aftermarket sets, although this probably won’t deter the aftermarket companies from releasing them. Before construction proper can begin, the modeller needs to open up quite a few holes, both on the hull sides and the main decks. These are clearly marked in the instructions and on the parts themselves where the holes have been flashed over. The build begins with the construction of several sub-assemblies. These include the six secondary turrets, each made up of the two barrels which are slid unglued onto the trunnion which in turn is glued to the trunnion pivots which are glued to the turret base. The turret itself is then slid over the barrels and glued to the base before being finished off with the addition of a PE rail on the turret roof. The two main turrets are constructed in a similar fashion, but without a roof rail. Next up are the eleven maxim machine guns, made from two styrene parts, (the gun and shield), along with the PE base folded to shape. The six single 75mm guns are all styrene, and consist of the barrel, shield, swivel mount and base, whilst the twelve 47mm cannon come as a single piece barrel/mount requiring only the shield to be fitted. The modeller then has to assemble four cable reels, each with PE stands, PE drum ends and styrene drum, along with six two piece deck mounted bitts. There are another twelve 75mm guns in casemates along the hull and these are glued to three internal bases per side and slid through their firing ports from the inside. With these fitted the hull halves are joined together with the rudder sandwiched between the halves, along with two sturdy bulkheads. The side mounts for the twin 6” secondary turrets are fitted, one per side, near the top of the hull sides. The quarterdeck and bilge keels are also glued into their respective positions. The main deck is the attached along with the quarterdeck/main deck bulkhead, followed by the upper side pieces and lower bridge wings. The large windlass, made up of eight styrene and four PE parts is assembled and positioned at the rear of the foredeck. From the bow, the foredeck is then fitted out with the jack staff, cleats, bitts, ventilators and the splinter shields for the port and starboard 6” turrets. Moving admidships there are three deckhouses fitted, the front one being the base of the bridge. Before attaching the next level of the bridge structure, six supports and the base of the foremast need to be glued into position. With these in place the bridge piece, which has been fitted with the armoured control tower to the underside, can be slid over the mast section and glued into position, followed by the two 6” turrets and two capstains. The bridge is slowly built up with the upper section of the tower, the bridge itself and a further deck with additional deckhouses and deck supports. Four of the 75mm guns are fitted two per side, just aft of the bridge. One deck up an there is a complicated bit of bending required to fit the railing, which you will need to be careful not to knock off as you fit the six 47mm guns, binnacle and rangefinder to the deck. Moving aft the fore-funnel is assembled from two halves and fitted with two PE blocks to the rear, a PE vertical ladder for each side, plus a PE funnel cap, the completed funnel is then fitted to its position just aft of the bridge structure along with a pair of PE inclined ladders. Meanwhile back to the foredeck, and the fitting of the four anchors, plus a pair of booms, one port and one starboard between each pair of anchors. The foretop is then assembled with the main styrene part being fitted with PE angled supports on the underside, whilst on the topside four 47mm guns are fitted, along with PE window frames fore and after and finished off with the roof. This assembly is then attached to the top of the lower foremast section. Between the funnels there are two boat cradle decks, each made up of both styrene and PE parts and glued into their respective positions, one aft of the fore-funnel and one foreward of the aft funnel. On the foretop roof there is a small gun station fitted out with three maxim machine guns with another section of foremast glued to the centre. Just aft of the rear funnel there is another winch unit, this one made up of seven parts. The front main 12” turret can now be fitted along with the two side mounted 6” turrets, whilst the foremast is fitted off with anotehr platform on which another section of mast is fitted along with a searchlight. The previously attached boat decks are fitted with PE cradles onto which the four large cutters are mounted, each cutter also having a two piece whale boat cradled on their thwarts. The aft boat deck is for the steam launches, with each of the four launches, two large and two smaller are each made up of the hull, deck, funnel, gun mount, gun, searchlight, ventilators and propeller, with the smaller ones also having a rear mounted maxim and a torpedo. With the boats fitted the rear funnel can be assembled, this consists of two funnel halves, PE vertical ladders, PE blocks, PE funnel cap and a PE derrick complete with hook. The completed funnel is then glued into position. At the centre of the foreward boat deck there is a searchlight tower made from a PE tower structure, PE railings, PE ladder and styrene searchlight. The aft superstructure supports are attached, along with the aft pair of 6” turrets, the aft mounted main 12” turret along with two decklights, inclined ladders, aft mounted anchor, spare anchor just aft of the rear boat deck, a pair of derricks each side, the boat booms, bitts, cleats and ensign staff. The after superstructure deck is fitted with a deckhouse and angled supports glued to the underside, before being fitted onto the previously attached supports between the two aft 6” turrets. The four piece steam launch derrick is assembled and fitted to the rear of the aft superstructure deck along with another deckhouse and further deck supports, onto which another deck is fitted. This upper deck is fitted with six 47mm guns and another complex railing which will require careful bending to shape. Both the foremast and mainmast are finished off with the addition of the mast tops and various length yards and platforms along with each having a pair of searchlights fitted. The foreward boat deck is then fitted with a pair of large davits complete with PE downfalls, whilst the two convoluted, (to cope with the weird tumblehome shape of the hull), PE accommodation ladders are assembled and glued one per side aft of the steam launch deck. Another pair of whale boats are attached to the derricks previously fitted to the ships sides. To finish the kit of it’s only a matter of fitting the two propeller shafts, propellers and assembling the stand supplied, complete with a nice plaque with the ships name on. Decals The small decal sheet contains two sizes of ships crest, the Russian and Ensign, in both flat and wavey form. For what it is, it is very nicely printed, although the blue cross on the wavey ensign appears to be quite a bit out of register. Conclusion I just love the look of these ships in which you can clearly see the French influences. They look so wrong that they’re right, if you know what I mean. This is a very interesting kit and will make a nice, different addition to any maritime collection. Without any plans I cannot say definitively how accurate it is, but it looks pretty good when compared with the published photographs, although the kit seems to be a little undergunned in the tertiary department as the details show that she actually was armed with a few more 47mm and additional 37mm cannon. Otherwise it is a very nice kit and can recommend it quite highly. Review sample courtesy of UK Distributors for

One of my builds for the Sci-Fi group build is the Nelson-class 'Space Battleship' by Kami de Korokoro. This is one of a number of resin spaceships in their 'Original SF Mechanics' series, which consists of WWII warships reimagined as spaceships à la Leiji Matsumoto, and the only one to be based off an actual battleship. I bought this kit on a whim from Hobby Link Japan two years ago, for 2600 yen. It comes packaged in a plastic bag with the artwork/header-cum-instructions inside as well. The main hull is a single piece, with the turrets, parts of the superstructure, and winglets to be attached on. The smaller parts, which include smaller turrets, radar dishes, aerials (with a keel included?), and two tiny fighters came in smaller ziploc bags. The instructions simply consist of a parts list and exploded views. Like the real-life Nelson battleships all the main gun turrets are carried forward (and an extra one is added to the underside). It can't be seen from the photo but the bow of the ship contains a Yamato-style cannon. The kit is straightforward in the way small resin kits are, that is only straightforward after proper cleaning-up of the parts. The casting is pretty rough, the main hull will need quite a bit of smoothing-down and I will probably need to scratchbuild some replacements. The kit is actually small, smaller than a 1/72 Spitfire. I will post a picture with this comparison once I finish the kit.

Pictures from Alan (phatness)