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JakeEaton

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About JakeEaton

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    Established Member
  • Birthday 10/17/1988

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    http://www.jakecanmake.com
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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    England

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  1. Progress has slowed a bit of late mainly due to these parts.. ...they are all being anodised different colours; blue, yellow, gold and black! So I have been tinkering with other parts, namely the lower lining. This is just toolbox, anti-slip stuff off of eBay laid over some black 3mm PVA foam. Painting continues with the rocket tip!! And where we're at.. I’ve also been spending my lunch breaks turning all my AutoCAD drawings into a 3D model.. ...The aim is to have an entirely 3D printable version I can sell in kit format relatively cheaply and easily! The most accurate representation of the prop on planet Earth, even the Milky Way!!
  2. Slapped a bit of paint on it. Tan base layer with a medium brown, dark brown and yellow camo pattern finished with a light speckle of the tan colour and a dark red/brown colour.
  3. Got a couple of layers of white primer down as a base coat, neatened up the edges and tidied the gaps between moving panels with body filler and sandpaper... ..next task is to start laying the tan base coat down, then camo, then a light stipple to blend the colours.
  4. Hello chaps, Firstly I’d like to apologise for the complete lack of updates on my Sea Harrier build over the last decade. I’ve noticed all my old pictures have since been taken down so I’ll try to get them reinstated. A very friendly fellow Britmodeller has since sold me a new FRS1 kit so the build will resume soon... ...until then please check out my latest project to see what’s stalling me on my Sea Harrier. I think it’s pretty cool so hope you guys do too..
  5. I made some brackets from angled aluminium.. ..and glued this to the frame using 2-part epoxy. This stuff is STRONG. Keying up both surfaces with rough sandpaper is vital. Where I’m at..
  6. Metal frame and wires can be a bad combo so rubber grommets were used where cables ran through parts.. Learning from earlier in the build I also included ports for the Arduino programming lead.. ..this saves me from having to take the frame apart to update the Arduino code. Got it all functioning again.. ..lovely seeing all those parts I’ve designed running like clockwork. Next job was to fit the 1mm trim. ..a combination of bending and rolling to get the required profile. A lasercut jig provided a guide.
  7. Kicking off 2020 with style. I had these parts cut from 3mm + 1mm aluminium. They also include the rocket fins and other important parts. Bent in the old bender.. Taken apart.. ..takes about an hour to strip it down to this degree now. Got to ream out all the important metal holes for housing bearings etc. The 3mm all together!!
  8. I also finally got round to fixing on the lower hand grip. I used M3 studding cut and epoxied into holes drilled into the black resin. This thing is approaching about 10kg now so it’s good to have somewhere to hold it! This is where it currently stands. ..and a side-by-side comparison of where it stood about 6 months ago... January should see me replace all the white plastic frame parts with laser cut aluminium versions and then the whole thing will be stripped down, some parts will be sent off for anodising and others painted in the spray booth. Not long left to go now!! Thanks for looking!!
  9. Next was the scope lighting. I used a bunch of red and yellow LEDs, one blue LED and a plastic potentiometer knob. The blue screen is made from a 20x20mm chunk of 15MM opal acrylic with a bit of black rubber heat shrink wrapped around it. They were wired into the scope Arduino and programmed to light when the scope comes up. Pretty neat!!
  10. Another job was this annoying wobble.. I took care of this by tapping the top of the brass part out to an M10 thread, cutting down an M10 bolt and turning a small pin into it. The upper part had a 3mm hole drilled into it.. ...and voila!! No more damned wobble!!
  11. After a day spent making the trigger, I next had a list of smaller jobs that needed to be sorted. One was to organise and finish the metal conduit at the rear of the gun. That was quite an important milestone because for the first time I could hold the gun without bits draping off it.
  12. What better way to do that then design a working trigger mechanism!! This is effectively just a holder for a momentary push button and a spring. The whole thing was 3D printed on my Prusa i3... ..the spring and button added and voila! The assembly is 12mm wide so I machined out a groove in my resin hand grip... ..and that’s that! Working trigger to activate the moving parts.
  13. The next stage was to cram all those electronic gubbins into the gun while trying to minimise what is on display... ..that’s two DC converters stacked (one takes the 12V and boosts it to 17V for the scope raising motor, the other decreases it to 6V for the servos and arduinos), a motor controller and an Arduino. I finished the main electronics by finding a space for the battery, wiring in the yellow button which will now be the on/off button and finally wiring in the charging port for the 12V battery. Glad it worked!! I also replaced the scissor lift mechanism with a sturdier, more accurate 3D printed version. It’s much smoother and easier to manufacture whilst also being lightweight and strong. The next task was to make an activation button.
  14. Got the whole lot functioning together. I matched the animation to the film. Next I have to tidy up the cabling and start going through my snags list. Then it’s time to send off my drawings and get the frames cut in aluminium.
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