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About JakeEaton

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  • Birthday 10/17/1988

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  1. Thanks for the kind words chaps. Really enjoyed making this as I’ve never made a film prop before and the feedback across the board has been very enthusiastic.
  2. ...and of it moving. (open in a new tab if video doesn’t load) ..and the remote activating it. (open in a new tab if video doesn’t load) That's that sorted then! Next project!!
  3. Hello chaps, While waiting for my parts to be anodised I got cracking on some finishing touches. In the film Gary Oldman's character uses a little remote to activate and expand the weapon. I thought I’d use this as a second way of activating my replica from afar... The prop is a vintage handheld video game like this... ...only sprayed black with a yellow screen. The only one I could find on eBay was selling for £75 so I downloaded a 3D model from thingiverse created by a guy who had bought, measured, modelled and s
  4. It’s just under 10kg so not a single handed weapon. There’s a reason why he uses two hands to hold it in the film!
  5. 3D printed a cover for the Arduino and circuitry.. ..plus I rewired the whole gun to neaten it up and hide some of the cabling. I also upgraded the battery and I’ve set it up so I can power it off the mains if for example I want to have it turned on for displays. I upgraded the drive and lifting arm shafts and spur gears to steel ones too... ...these will ensure long term durability. No chance of slipping or stripping. I got the red light (finally) wired in. The amount of people that ask for that is insane!
  6. Paint time. I neatened up some of the edges and sorted out some problem areas before spraying the white primer coat.. Tan colour.. Speckled and finished! Rocket tip sprayed yellow gloss.. Rocket complete! I vapour blasted the rocket body too.. I've also started experimenting with the lower lining.. It's tool box liner over a layer of 3mm black PVA foam. After that I stripped the whole gun down to start ageing the frame an
  7. Lots of smaller jobs now. The rocket needs its aluminium fins attaching... ..I used a slitting saw on my mill to get a nice thin groove. The fins were then set in a jig to make sure they're square and glued internally with 2-part epoxy glue. I included tabs on the bottom of the fins to aid in gluing. Nice and strong! In place on the gun.. Not much room for inaccuracy here but it just fit right in there. I also had to finally fix down the top shell. I made some angled tabs and fi
  8. Progress has slowed a bit of late mainly due to these parts.. ...they are all being anodised different colours; blue, yellow, gold and black! So I have been tinkering with other parts, namely the lower lining. This is just toolbox, anti-slip stuff off of eBay laid over some black 3mm PVA foam. Painting continues with the rocket tip!! And where we're at.. I’ve also been spending my lunch breaks turning all my AutoCAD drawings into a 3D model.. ...The a
  9. Slapped a bit of paint on it. Tan base layer with a medium brown, dark brown and yellow camo pattern finished with a light speckle of the tan colour and a dark red/brown colour.
  10. Got a couple of layers of white primer down as a base coat, neatened up the edges and tidied the gaps between moving panels with body filler and sandpaper... ..next task is to start laying the tan base coat down, then camo, then a light stipple to blend the colours.
  11. Hello chaps, Firstly I’d like to apologise for the complete lack of updates on my Sea Harrier build over the last decade. I’ve noticed all my old pictures have since been taken down so I’ll try to get them reinstated. A very friendly fellow Britmodeller has since sold me a new FRS1 kit so the build will resume soon... ...until then please check out my latest project to see what’s stalling me on my Sea Harrier. I think it’s pretty cool so hope you guys do too..
  12. I made some brackets from angled aluminium.. ..and glued this to the frame using 2-part epoxy. This stuff is STRONG. Keying up both surfaces with rough sandpaper is vital. Where I’m at..
  13. Metal frame and wires can be a bad combo so rubber grommets were used where cables ran through parts.. Learning from earlier in the build I also included ports for the Arduino programming lead.. ..this saves me from having to take the frame apart to update the Arduino code. Got it all functioning again.. ..lovely seeing all those parts I’ve designed running like clockwork. Next job was to fit the 1mm trim. ..a combination of bending and rolling to get the required profile.
  14. Kicking off 2020 with style. I had these parts cut from 3mm + 1mm aluminium. They also include the rocket fins and other important parts. Bent in the old bender.. Taken apart.. ..takes about an hour to strip it down to this degree now. Got to ream out all the important metal holes for housing bearings etc. The 3mm all together!!
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