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Everything posted by Spiny

  1. I've used Tamiya and Revell tapes on gloss finishes without any issues (so far), just don't cover any decals with them as that's the layer which is likely to lift. It's also best to leave the masking tape on for the shortest time you can to give it least chance for the adhesive to really bond to the paint. So in a situation such as this, I'd probably be applying the masking tape, then straight away the Chrome, then remove the masking tape as close to one after the other as possible. Also, make sure you give the paint plenty of time to fully cure (I leave at least two weeks, preferably longer) and if you can mask when it's cooler that's even better (strength of adhesive again). If you really want to test it, I would definitely recommend the plastic spoon method (apply your paints to the spoon to make sure there's no adverse reaction), then put some tape on there before your model.
  2. Excellent work here. And, while it might not seem that much on an achievement at first glance, doing all those modifications and still getting the bonnet to fit snugly is very much an achievement.
  3. That looks good to me, I would definitely think that there's no reason on quality grounds not to do more in 1/24 or 1/25 scale. As for the trim, you can get a decent straight edge for the trim if you mask along it and then cover with the Molotow Chrome (oddly enough, 2mm might be easier to get a good finish if you use the tape as the nib runs better along raised edges). And if you do go over slightly, you can remove it with a bit of IPA (that's IsoPropanyl Alcohol, not India Pale Ale).
  4. Noooooo. It's only June and you're already using the C-word!
  5. I could be wrong, but this "2022 Release" looks as though the Revell 427 may be coming back very soon? At least, I think it's probably going to be the same one, happy to be corrected if someone knows differently https://www.jadlamracingmodels.com/revell-07708-65-shelby-cobra-427-1-24-car-model-kit/
  6. Fortunately for both you and Andy, I've always felt that the classic/cliched silver is the colour which best suits the 300SL, so this will be following the recommended colour scheme in the instructions (I also prefer the red leather to tartan cloth). However, now you mention it brown would be something different... Too true, one of the perils of doing the spraying in an unheated en-bloc garage at the bottom of the garden is that winter is definitely not good for painting. As for what the follow up car is, there are three VERY different options on the table, and I suspect which one I go for will be determined by which one I can get hold of all the paints for.
  7. Another bit that's good to know. To tell the truth, my first reason for putting the window in now was that I didn't trust myself not to drop it in the van while I was fitting it in the tailgate, it was only as I was polishing that I noticed the slight bend in the tailgate. But if fitting the window now helps with fitting, that's a good thing in my book.
  8. Lovely work on this. I can't get over that something so good to look at came together so quickly. At this rate you'll be running out of shelving space to display your models, and it must be said they all very much deserve to be on display.
  9. That looks as though it has the potential to become a decal nightmare. Well done for avoiding that particular scenario and ending up with such a good end result.
  10. It does feel as though we've had a load of very nicely built and modified Mercedes 300SLs on here, especially from Crazy Crank. So time for me to redress the balance with a not-so-well built and barely modified version of Tamiya's kit. First impressions of the kit are that there is a lot in here compared to your standard 1/24 car. I've not done a sprue shot before, but here's what you get: Nice to see plenty of bracing for the body, but it did mean quite a bit of cutting and filing to get all of it off. Once that's all cut off the bodyshell doesn't feel anything like as stiff as it did so definitely a good move on Tamiya's part putting that in. I gave it a guide coat a few weeks ago just to show the mould lines (there is a prominent one on the top of each wing running front to back plus some smaller, but more annoying ones, front and rear. It looks as though I've got them all sanded off now, so it sits here awaiting the start of the proper painting process. The bonnet has also had a start made to it. First job is to remove the ejector marks on the underside. There's quite a few, including some in the middle part. For these, I chose to sand them out rather than fill them as I've heard that clearance under the bonnet is minimal at best, so I figured it was worth grabbing myself a little bit more space, even if it is just a fraction of a millimetre. I've also sanded the inside of the bonnet bulges as far as I dare for the same reason, and I'm going to give the underside of the bonnet minimal coats - it doesn't matter if this part of the car looks very slightly different to the rest. And the other bit which I've started painting is the interior tub. Lots of masking here, some such as for the interior you can see, and some such as inside the wheel arches is less visible. Again, quite a lot of ejector pin marks and these were also sanded flat. Unfortunately, because this part is moulded in the silvery plastic, the ejector pin mark stays visible long after it's sanded flat, so you just have to hope you have them when primer is applied. And in case anyone is wondering, the barbecue skewer is just there to hold it up for painting. So that's a start. The hope is that I can get this painted well before winter as I'd like to get another bodyshell done too before the weather turns. Thanks for looking.
  11. Thanks for the heads up, in that case I'll hold off on the trim. But as there looks to be a slight bow to the top of the rear tailgate I think I will put the glass in there before fitting the part onto the body, even if it's just to keep the tailgate straight while I fiddle around. Must admit that the instructions for this one do seem to be in the most nonsensical order of any build I've done so far. I remember watching the programme on Hornby and them going to someone outside the company to get the instructions done, so it could wel be that whoever wrote these instructions for Revell hadn't actually built the kit.
  12. I'd agree, it's good to see some more everyday subjects built. And definitely a good move to get rid of those awful wheels judging by the box art.
  13. No problem, if even just one person finds it useful it was worth it. As for the build, I'm really not sure what Revell were on when they wrote the instructions because the order doesn't seem to make much sense. For example, at this stage I should be adding the main rear body panels and back doors. But then I would have to come back later to fix various windows and bits of trim. To my mind, it's going to be easier to fit those now before they're fixed onto the chassis, so I've been getting the trim ready. That's only been a number plate, handle and rear window trim though. Number plate was done with Tamiya Satin Black as it goes on a bit smoother that the Revell on large surfaces, but it doesn't cover as well so the Revell was used for the window trim. Edges were done with 1mm masking tape which personally I find much easier than the masking cut-outs you get on some kits. And as for the wheels... they're not meant to go on until later (in the instructions) but I can't for the life of me see why not. What I can see though is that if I put them on after the body panels it will be a real pain getting the rear wheels onto the axle stub while sliding them up behind the body panel - something will fall off if I try that. So I added the wheels this weekend instead. Initially I thought it was tripoding, but once I'd got all wheels on properly it sat 4-on-the-ground. The only problems are the wheels don't turn (not a big issue) and the wheels are a tad too large for the wheel wells so there is very little steering lock. Suddenly it's taking shape. However, most of my VW time this weekend has been spent polishing various panels. I've done the Tamiya Coarse rub over, just starting on the Fine. Hopefully I'll have a bit more to show you next weekend that this. Thanks for looking.
  14. I dread getting a model which doesn't go together well - yes I've had minor issues but nothing to make me want to give up. Glad you overcame that hurdle as it does look as though the end result will be worthwhile.
  15. Well I certainly wouldn't have guessed it was the first build back after a long break - good work on it. And your airbrushing skills definitely seem ahead of mine - if there's one tool I hate in this hobby it;s the airbrush...
  16. You talk about glacial pace, but I think your build rate (and result) is comparing favourably to mine at the moment.
  17. I've never really worried about the large flanges, just paint them matt black and it won't show up much.
  18. To tell the truth the white Lamborghini Gallardo I pass every day going into work doesn't wow me, although it does look nice and I wouldn't mind having it. And there are so many 911s around here they're not worth passing comment on. So I'll mention the Mk2 MR2 in red which didn't look too bad, but much nicer was the Lotus Elise coming the other way in Gold Leaf colours. However, my favourite of the day was this little beauty (Bedford HA) waiting to pull out onto the dual carriageway - doesn't it look small compared to the BMW I was passing? I saw one 3 years ago at Bicester Heritage, but can't remember the last time I saw one out in the wild.
  19. Looks nicely built - it would be good to hear a it more about it (for example, whose kit is it? any issues with building it? anything else of note?)
  20. Thank you, glad the beading is getting a good reaction as it felt like it slowed the seat down quite a bit and there were times I wondered if it was worth it. I think there's no way I could mask and spray to anywhere resembling a decent standard (my airbrush skills are not great) so this is very much hand painted: 1) Started with the white paint for the beading. I didn't worry too much about going over onto the seat material, just had to make sure I didn't cause too much of a paint build up and lose the texture. 2) The next bit is the bit which matters as I had to take a fine brush and brush the grey up to the beading. I can't imagine trying to do the beading with the white following the grey - I always find it much, much easier to paint up to an edge rather than over an edge. As it was such a fine brush, I only came a couple of mm out from the beading at this stage. 3) The rest of the seats were painted with a flat brush - easiest stage of the lot here. 4) Finally, using a very fine brush (Army Painter Psycho) I touched up any bits where grey paint had got on the white. Hope that explains how I did it, other people probably have quicker, easier and better methods but this one works for me. And I am pretty pleased with how it turned out in the end
  21. Looks as though it's shaping up nicely. Also, if there is something which has been fighting you, it's often amazing the morale boost you can get by dry fitting something from further along the process such as the body or wheels as you have done here.
  22. If it was me I would just show what the kit is like in the box and say I'll build it as near to her car as the kit allows if you still want me to. I know there are side skirts etc,. plus the incorrect number of doors, but I honestly think if you mask it so you can spray the bumpers satin black it will probably be close enough for the average person - just remember most people aren't anything like as much sticklers for detail as the average modeller. And if she's like some people I know she wouldn't even notice the different doors for a few months
  23. I have one of these nearing the head of the stash. For anyone thinking of buying it, it's one of those Tamiya kits where you open the box and think "is that all there is?". Then, the more you look at it you realise they've done a very good job of packaging the parts on the sprue - I think this one is going to be more than initially meets the eye. While I haven't started mine yet, if anyone likes the subject I would encourage you to jump straight in.
  24. Thank you, although it has to be said that so far the decals have been quite kind to me with the exception of the beige strip which wasn't too keen on following the bulge around the body - it has drifted off on the rear corner but responded well to decal solutions and everywhere else fell into place with the exception of around the sticking out bits which put up more of a fight. Trying to work out if I can get away with putting the wheels on permanently now (which will help at the back particularly where putting them on later will mean manouevring around the body panel) or whether there is some other eason why the instructions hold off putting them on until near the end.
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