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Everything posted by Spiny

  1. Seconded. When I think of the size of these, it makes the detailing especially incredible. All praise you receive is fully deserved.
  2. I'm trying to get through this year without buying any kits (don't laugh anybody!), but this is one of those which is sorely tempting me. I'll be interested to see what you make of it, from first impressions it looks like it should make a very good representation.
  3. Thanks everyone. Matthew - that sounds like a good tip with the magnets. I'm hoping that this one will settle ok once I have the engine cover fitted properly, otherwise that tip is likely to be used. I suspect at sometime in the future there will be a kit where that will be needed - I've been quite lucky so far. And I'm looking forward to your purple machine - I've seen you produce great results from kits very inferior to this one so it should be a good one for us to watch (and I'm sure you'll enjoy this kit too).
  4. Definitely a relief to get it sorted - you can probably imagine my reaction when it shattered. Good old Amazon for it. This is the one I bought, but I'm sure others are available. You'll also want to buy a cheap UV torch if you haven't got one already, unless you're content to go for a slow cure on the windowsill and let the sun do itswork. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B076RHF9NG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1 To apply, I just use a cocktail stick, exactly the same process as with Clearfix when it comes to application. Then, once you have the part in place and have made sure you haven't got any resin sitting when you don't want it (like on the windscreen of the Stratos I did), shine the UV torch on itfor 30s to a minute and it should be solid enough. I only got this end of September, so I'm not sure if it will be harder to work with under the summer sun.
  5. I'm not sure you need a clear coat on that - the shine on that is better than my finished paints.
  6. With the rotten weather this weekend, I got a decent go on the table (in between leaks ). First up was getting those front lights sorted out - a little bit fiddly but nothing that some curved tweezers couldn't sort out. A bit of tube glue to tack in place, then once that had set some Tamiya Extra Thin to secure them, and all was ready (apart from the indicator/sidelight lenses which will come later. After that it was the turn of the back end, and it took most of the weekend to get the small reflectors in the middle of the reversing lights painted with enough layers to look ok. Fortunately, the rest of the red and orange glass came as coloured plastic so that was easy. Or so I thought... but there was a valuable lesson learned - when removing a part from the sprue, always cut the bit nearest the fat bit first if it's held on my many joints, especially if it's clear plastic which tends to be a bit more brittle The rear lights have a chromed reflector piece which needs fitting first, then it's the turn of the glass. Following trials with the Stratos, I went with the infra-red setting clear resin, which I ran around the edge of the recess before installing the 'glass'. Fortunately, with a little trimming, I was able to get the red surround glass fitted and looking something like ok - you can't tell on the real thing so please believe me when I say this picture shows it as bad as it gets. The fit around the lenses is tight - you could possibly get away with just clicking them in place, but I'd rather have a bit more security than that. Good job I went with the resin - I had a bit of transfer via my finger onto the paint when I was trying to press the orange and clear lenses into place, but unlike normal glue could wipe it down before using the IR torch to set it. I'm liking this stuff more and more. Anyway, after this weekend, this is where I am. The number plate decal will wait until the body is on the chassis just in case...
  7. As Jeroen said, white cars can be a real pain to photograph, but your pics look pretty good to me and are certainly enough to show how well this one ended up - good job with both model and photographs. It's odd, when the 360 first came out I thought it was a bit of a minger, but as the years have passed the looks have grown on me.
  8. I've got the Vallejo filler myself and to be honest aren't all that impressed by it. Personally, i try to give it longer than 10 hours to fully set, but I still find it susceptible to pulling out of whatever hole you're trying to fill and don't even think of trying to wet sand it (!). It also seems to have a tendency to shrink back with primer, so for all but the smallest holes you're probably going to be filling, priming and repeating. I won't be getting any more of this - just haven't got myself another filler yet so probably creating more work for myself. But rest assured, you can get there in the end.
  9. Good job on the model, very nicely detailed too. I wouldn't worry too much about the gap between the top and the main body - every single one of these I've seen (including the one I did when I was in my teens) has that gap and as you say, it's not going anywhere unless you permanently glue it shut and hide all that work on the engine.
  10. Good job there, it's a good kit and you've done well with it. Definitely the right sort of colour for the car too - communist drab is just the thing for it. Only one question - aren't you going to show us any photos of the engine?
  11. Very carefully! Basically, I used a 5/0 brush to paint the grille with a 10/0 brush for the bits around the headlights using semi-gloss black paint. For something like this, unless your eyes are very good, a magnifying headset is very handy. All the chrome was kit chrome apart from the window surrounds and where I touched up attachment points. I guess if you wanted to do a wire aftermarket grille effect you could use a black wash over it then rub the wash off the high points, but the standard grille is black.
  12. Damn you! I'm planning to have the S2000 build later in the year, and I can already tell it's going to look so basic compared to this. Hurry up and finish so mine doesn't get compared to this Seriously though, this is looking like a great start and I get the feeling it's going to look awesome when complete.
  13. First of all, good choice of kit. I did one last year (see sig in link if you want to see that one) and there's not a lot wrong with it, and an awful lot right. I'll try and answer as many of your questions below as I can.
  14. Can't help with the aerial, but I would definitely recommend the Molotow Liquid Chrome for the headlights. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Molotow-Liquid-Chrome-Pump-Marker/dp/B01E7EFSVU Personally, I find that the finish from the 1mm pen is better than the 2mm pen I also have, but that may just be me. If you get one, make sure you give it a good shake before use. Also, be aware that while it dries reasonably quickly, it takes a long time to fully harden (best to leave for a week at least if you can) and will still not be super tough. It might not quite match kit chrome for shininess, but it isn't far off and is a lot better than normal silver paint.
  15. Unfortunately so - two headlights, reflector, black trim and body-coloured top on each. The keen eyed amongst you may have noticed that the top in the photo above didn't quite line up with the rest of the light - turned out that at some stage since last summer the left and right top pieces had got transposed. So I've parted the top from the rest of the unit and fitted the correct piece - looks better now and will fit properly when I come to add it to the body.
  16. This was one of those weekend where you feel you've made more progress than you probably have done. Happily, last week's woes with the radiators appear to have been fixes, which means that I can report a completed engine bay with all bits in place The grille in the foreground is the one I damaged so I'm quite pleased that it doesn't look too bad, even on camera. Of course, with that finished I had to get the chassis made up since 'all' that's left is the body. Hard to believe looking at this that it will be covered over by the wedgy Countach body - hope the fitting isn't too tricky when the time comes... First job is the headlights. This is one I made up (5 parts in this one little unit) and, after some consideration I've decided to go with the headlights raised. That decision was reaffirmed when I tried to fit it in the down position - it does go but is a very tight fit due to the painting. The first one has been made up, and for some reason when I saw this pic I thought of Jonny 5 That's all for this week, feels like it's been quite a productive one.
  17. Spiny

    Gloss over Acrylics

    Pretty much as above, always test the combination on something cheap prior to spraying the model, that way if there is any bad reaction you'll be able to try something else before messing up a model you've put a load of money and effort into. I bought a cheap pack of plastic teapoons just for this - much better to waste a 2p spoon than a body shell.
  18. That's a nice looking model you've done there. I have to say I don't envy you moving 300+ models - I'm not looking forward to the idea of moving less than 20!
  19. Looks like a lovely build, hope you're as proud of it as you should be. Only one very minor comment - it might be worth running some wax over that left-hand A-pillar to remove the fingerprint visible in the last pic. Other than that, all is well
  20. Being used as daily drivers today, I saw a B-reg Nissan Cherry and M-reg Cavalier. Also, today's place for work housed a collection of about 10 lovely 60's/70's Ferraris plus a couple of other rare beasts - an unexpected bonus that lot
  21. Can't offer any help programme-wise, but I reduced the size of mine down to 200x200 pixels, and then reduced the image quality (jpeg compression) down until the size was below 50k. I have Photoshop Elements so was able to use that, but appreciate that's no use if you haven't got it - more just trying to give an idea of process,
  22. That's what I'm finding too - quite a few occasions so far in this build where I've put the pieces together and could have left them as they are so I've been able to just run a bit of Extra Thin onto them without having to hold in position. I've heard a bit about the body being a paint too - let's just say I'm very glad that the sills are separate items! Hadn't heard about issues with the doors and lights before - definitely something I will bear in mind as the lights in particular are coming up very soon. Thanks for the advice, I must admit that my next step was to try the Extra Thin so good to hear it would have been a success, But happily, before I came on here, I took the radiator out of the freezer and tried putting a blade down the back of the grille. It took a bit of work, and at one stage I put the blade straight through the grille (fortunately no major damage) but eventually I got it free You can see where I put the blade through on the grille, but it looks worse on the camera. As Codger correctly pointed out, it's not a particularly visible part, and being symmetrical I'll turn the grille around when I refix it so that bit is towards the bottom and more out of sight still. Fingers crossed I may have got away with this one. If you are fancying a bit of exotica, from my experience so far the Aoshima Countach has lived up to all the praise I've read about it. It looks a bit daunting out of the box, but is really well engineered. From the builds I've seen of yours, I think you'll more than do it justice.
  23. It's a shame about the rain, but at least you saved the main body, and judging by the photos it was certainly worth saving from the rain. Even though it's black, it gives no hint at your earlier issues.
  24. Only one picture today as all the work has been on the engine. In essence, this weekend has been a continuation of last weekend, so I've finished painting (almost!) all the parts, and have stuck all the engine bits together to make half an engine - this is one of those kits which only has you model the bits on show. So this is where I stand at the moment: All it needs now is fitting into the engine bay along with a few peripherals. And that's where things have gone wrong - as usual with this one no blame to attach the kit and lots to the idiot building it. Basically, I misread the instructions and fitted the radiator mesh onto the back of the radiator, whereas what I should have done is fit it flush with the front (in my defence, the instructions aren't 100% clear on this), with the result that it doesn't fit where it should. So I have one side pod radiator sitting in the freezer at the moment hoping that might help dislodge it, but does anyone else have any tips for separating the two parts (fixed with tube clue). Any advice is appreciated (as ever), even if freezing it works this time there's always the next time I do something stupid.
  25. That looks very nice, but the engine bay in particular is superb.
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