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Spiny

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Everything posted by Spiny

  1. Judging by the state of my barely-started panel van I think getting this done within 5 weeks is going to be a challenge, but I'm sure you'll give it a good go. Looks as though you've made a good start here and, bearing in mind how well the 1/16 turned out and the amount you've learned since then I expect this will look great when done. That said, the old Peugeot (assuming you mean properly old and not just a 20-year old Peugeot Boxer conversion) sounds much more interesting to me than a VW camper
  2. If you do go down the bleach route, one thing I've noticed is that if it doesn't seem to do anything after a few hours it's worth putting the container into a tub of hot water as heat seems to speed up the reaction. I can't speak for the other methods Matt has recommended, but would second his advice to take care with whichever method you use - if it's stripping chrome finish you can bet it's not going to be too good for you either!
  3. That's very good work with the foil, especially to get it to even stick, let alone be so accurate on those small parts. It's looking as though this is going to end up as a good-looking model.
  4. Judging by what I'm seeing of the Revell kit that could be a good move - I'm sure it will turn out well as it looks as though it goes together, but there is a daunting amount of painting (not to mention filling) work to do on the thing - I can see half my summer being spent just spraying various body parts. Yours however is looking very good - as Jeroen said that's an excellent finish to the paint.
  5. How long did you leave it in the bleach? And what temperature was it? The reason I ask is that I've found that bleach is very dependant on temperature - I've had it almost compeltely fail to touch chrome overnight yet strip it compeltely within the hour when I put the same bleach container into a bowl of hot (nto boiling, you don't want to damage the plastic) water.
  6. Never mind the cabinet, it looks "quite nice" on screen too. Good job.
  7. Well I for one can't see the 'imperfect' bits. To me it looks just as high a standard as we've come to expect from your builds.
  8. Got to agree that's a lovely build, the paint in particular stands out for me, both for its quality and for the sheer 80s-ness of it. Well done.
  9. One of those weekends this time where you seem to spend ages not achieving very much. But here goes... First job was assembling all the rear axle parts I painted last weekend. Happily this was one job which went very smoothly. Unfortunately things then took a distinct turn for the worse when I moved onto the shock absorbers. The right hand side one was fine, but I managed to snap the left hand side getting it off the sprue. Then to make matters worse, I snapped it again while filing off the attachment stub on the damper itself That set me back a bit as I had to fix the three pieces back together, firstly the two parts of the lever action arranged on inverted masking tape then a bit of Tamiya Extra Thin applied to the break. Once that had set, I could then use the chassis as a jig to hold the now-two parts in place before gluing together with more Tamiya Extra Thin. The part was then painted with the paint providing a bit more strength - one of those examples of structural paintwork. And just now I got that bit installed on the chassis - it's the one in the foreground. The only other bits added were the other rear damper, gear selector linkage and front ARB, all on the next pic if you look carefully! Other than that, I've tried out sanding the tread on the first wheel by fixing to the front of an electric drill and turning against 400 grit sandpaper - much easier than doing that by hand! I've also got three wheels painted now, just one more to go. And the exhaust has been assembled, glued together and the join on the silencer has had filler applied. Next week that'll get sanded down and I'm hoping there will be much more visible progress as believe it or not the chassis is almost done. This is a much simpler kit than the XJS was! Thanks for looking.
  10. Apologies for continuing the thread hijack, but @Ted you did ask about paint! To answer the question above, no I haven't tried putting TS-13 over the Revell, mainly becuase I suspect that the 'hotter' Tamiya paint would react with the Revell. Anyway, a quick rundown of pluses and minuses from my experience. Tamiya Pros: Best shine, hardest finish Cons: Most likely to eat decals (hottest), different smell makes me thing it's likely to react with more water-based paints Revell Pros: Polishes to a good shine, good finish straight out of the spray can, never had it attack decals Cons: Can soften if handled with bare hands, hard to find for sale at the moment (and I'm not even sure if it made it to North America in the first place!) Humbrol Pros: Doesn't eat decals, can be polishes to a decent shine Cons: Not yet got a good finish straight out of the can, seems more likely to cloud if sprayed in high humidity Whichever I've used, to get a really good shine I'e had to polish the paint - usually starting at 6000 grit (sometimes 4000), then 8000 and 12,000 grit before polishing compounds. The polishing really can make a different as this bonnet with one side polished and one side not shows:
  11. My instinct would be to leave it unfilled - it seems to look as though it's designed to look like a clamp to hold the cylinder in place to it would be natural to have that gap if that is the case. But I could easily be wrong.
  12. Not a lot to criticise here, it looks good to me (And I didn';t notice the bonnet clips until Keith mentioned above). It's weird how your memory plays tricks, I was sure these were a darker blue. Then when I Googled I realised my memory had put the dark blue from the Kaliber cars onto these
  13. One tip someone on here gave which I use if using automotive paint is to swap the nozzle for one from an old can of model paint. The main probelm I have with that is remembering to do it! Also be aware that automotive metallics tend to have larger flakes than model paints and so can look a bit out of scale. I'd tend to agree with Tamiya TS-13 as the best clear, but am a bit wary if using many decals as you need to put some mist coats down as it can attack the decals. For that reason, if a kit has a lot of decals I tend to prefer Humbrol or Revell clear as, although less robust, they tend to be gentler when sprayed.
  14. After all those battles what you've got on the car looks good. It's just a shame about those you're showing on the backing paper which appear to have self-destructed. Hopefully that's something you can fix by paint?
  15. I don't think I would even dream of building up a a suspension like like this, let alone be able to pull it off so well
  16. All it needs is lots of magnification, a very fine brush, holding your breath until you almost pass out and most important of all a cocktail stick to clean up at the end where you've painted bits you shouldn't have...
  17. Today I''ll see all your classics and supercars and raise you.... er.... a pink Nissan Micra CC
  18. Looks a good start. Am I viewing the photos correctly in that you have a one-piece body on the Hasegawa kit?
  19. Thanks everyone, glad to know that the time spent on the wheels is looking as though it's worthwhile What about a Tamiya Ultra-Fine brush? I don't think the cocktail stick is fine enough for anything other than scraping off where I overlapped with the paint!
  20. Fully agree, there's been some good work on this. I know this will make me sound stupid, but until you started building this I hadn't twigged that this model was the current shape Fiesta
  21. Having a full size one isn't to be sniffed at - not really the right time of year for it at the moment but I hope you enjoy using it in the sunnier months. Good job you mentioned the side indicator too as I was planning on fitting that, your comment about it being for the US got me checking Google Images and that will be omitted now. I do remember a build on here which mentioned that you can put the floor above the clips on the body to get a realistic ride height for the chrome bumper version, I'm guessing it was yours in which case you can be assured that quite a bit of what you did stuck in my mind As for the build, I managed to scupper any chance of making good progress this week. Last week I mentioned that the instructions have lots (and lots) of flat black, and the same is true for the rear suspension. But I wanted to see how accurate that was, and Googling found three different colour schemes for the drum brake housing - all black, black with a circular silver bit and black with a silver cross. Initially I was going to do the second one, but my painting was rubbish and the silver circle looked as though it had been painted by a blind pony, so I changed to the silver cross which at least allowed me to follow some edges on the part. The upshot is that I've only just got the drum housing painted, so assembly will have to wait until next weekend, but here's the parts painted and ready to stick together: On the theme of moving away from things being all the same black, I mentioned last week that I was going to paint the engine and transmission which are all moulded into the chassis, and just called out as flat black. That did get completed this weekend, so here it is waiting for parts to be stuck to it: And finally, those Rostyle wheels. I've almost got the first two finished now (the second one just needs the nuts painting) but the first one is completed and has the tyre added now. I do need to sand down the tread still, but thought I'd let the paint get fully hardened first. As the male part of the join for the wheel is on the hub I'm thinking this could be a good opportunity to dry putting in the drill and turning the wheel against sandpaper - much less effort than sanding the tyre down manually. But here's how the first turned out - the second one looks as though it may end up marginally better. And that's it for this week. Thanks for looking.
  22. Yes, I think is was by quite a bit too (maybe as much as 2") to meet the US bumper regulations, same change which brought in the rubber bumpers.
  23. This seems to have come together in a rush, but the end result looks great. I have to say that the figure looks much better now you've painted her up too.
  24. Damn you! That sent me looking to see if Marina SunTor's were still around and one came up for sale. And now I want one, although the stash rule (of not having enough space) is saving me there...
  25. Not that I've found. I just add some of the thinner (or water) to the pot, then some more when it starts to get thicker again. No problems so far except for with 302 Satin Black which has eventually clumped (that's on two separate pots) - no other colours have been affected like that so I guess it's something to do with that specific paint formulation.
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