Dr. Quack

Absolutely! It's the learning curve, and we're all on it.... Keep up the good work.

Hi @SHAY. Just to add to the previous posters.... A gloss coat provides a smooth surface which makes it reflective / glossy and allows a thin oil wash to flow easily along grooves and right angles - perfect for highlighting panel lines and for creating shadows to pick out details such as cockpits and interiors. A satin or matt coat is a bit rougher so it scatters light more (less glossy) and being rough it 'grabs' the oil causing it to smudge and smear a bit - very useful for weathering and creating oil streaks etc. Try applying a little thinned oil paint at a panel line then stippling it around with a brush moistened with thinner - you can create different effects such as grime and wear around individual panels. If you dab a small oil spot then drag over it with a flat brush moistened with thinners, you can replicate oil smears and stains - brush in the direction of airflow over the airframe. Oils are a very useful and versatile way of weathering - the trick is to use the right varnish coat for the effect you want to achieve, and make sure that the varnish has fully cured. If you feel you've overdone it a bit, you can usually remedy things using a cotton bud and thinners to wipe away your errors. I found this YouTube video build very instructive when I first tried it. The description of oil techniques is near the end - the build is a Phantom FGR.2 but the same methods apply to any model. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABABT2Nf4dI Have fun with it! Q

That's the one! @Dave Swindell I'm absolutely sure you're right, but I just can't get the knack and more than one of my models has died trying. Dammit! That's what I meant - post corrected - thanks for spotting.

Hi @Aidan.H, I've also had trouble sanding curves and I've tried various methods for avoiding the flattening effect. Sanding sponges are definitely more forgiving than sanding sticks, and abrasive paper or cloth can also work well. Whatever you use, avoid using too much pressure. Best to sand very lightly with each abrasive in grit sequence. Lately I've become something of a convert to the Flexifile which is basically a U shaped frame with a band of abrasive tape held between the arms. Great for convex curves like aircraft fuselage spines. It comes with a range of sanding grits and I find they are long lasting in use. Google "Flex-I-File" for a clearer idea of what I mean. I picked mine up at a show very reasonably. Not sure if that answers your question....hope it helps. Regards, Q

I entirely agree Chris - for pre painted PE, and for very small PE parts I often use PVA glue or Micro Kristal Klear applied with a cocktail stick. Shep's PE is fine bare metal so I guess CA would still work well. Niall

Hi Shep, Looks like a great project - can't wait to see your progress... I'll try to answer your questions as best I can - just from my own experience. I expect others on the Forum may have alternative suggestions. 1. Resin and PE can be cleaned with white spirit, though I've found that it can sometimes leave a residue after drying. Many people use IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol) and some just gently wash in a mild solution of washing-up liquid then rinsing with clean water. 2. Resin and PE definitely need to be primed before painting. Everybody has their own favourite, Mr. Surfacer should be fine. 3. PE can be removed with fine scissors, however the action of the blades crossing against each other may cause the PE part to twist and distort - those PE exhaust parts look VERY fine and delicate! PE can usually be cut from the frame using a sharp new blade - a curved blade is often best as it can be rocked / rolled over the attachment point. Your blade will probably get blunt quite quickly. I would definitely recommend placing the PE part on a hard surface like a tile or a slate when cutting - don't place it directly on a cutting mat as the mat will yield slightly under pressure and your delicate PE part will twist and distort. 4. CA glue is good for resin and PE. Epoxy works too, but tends to be rather thick and stringy - difficult to handle when trying to bond fine parts like your PE. 5, Resin can be attached to plastic using CA glue or epoxy if you like. Normal plastic cements like Tamiya Extra Thin are useless for resin and PE. If you show your progress in a Work In Progress thread then you can ask for advice and help as you progress through your build. I have been given some great advice that way over the years.# Hope that helps. I look forward to seeing some pictures soon.... Best wishes, Q

I found Revell very helpful when I contacted them about a replacement part....sent from Germany at a fair price. I'm sure they'll help if the kit is still in production. https://www.revell-service.de/en/spare-parts-service/

Quite magnificent - an unusual scheme for one of my favourite subjects. superbly researched and built - as ever. I hope you bring it to the January club meet - I'm itching to see it in the flesh... Q

A very impressive addition to the competition tables and a truly worthy winner. Nice to see the top surface as well. Congratulations on a well deserved medal. Q

A fine result Ali - your perseverance has definitely paid off. 👍 A classic aircraft in a classic scheme. Q

Welcome to the fold. Your models look extremely good - well constructed and finished, and thoughtfully weathered. I look forward to seeing more In due course. Q A fellow retired medic...

Nice start - I do love a Tornado - especially a pink one. I built one in 1/48 scale - Link here.... I am a complete convert to MRP paints - totally Idiot proof (ie Quack-proof). they spray beautifully and leave a very resilient hard finish, and I've never had problems with silvering after applying transfers direct to the paint surface - no gloss coat required - heretical, I know. But to get to the point: when trying out paint for my Desert Pink Tonka I tried MRP 185 (Modern RAF Desert Pink) but found it quite dark compared to reference pics. I tried lightening it but it ended up looking grey and muddy. In the end I used MRP 339 which is marketed as a colour for British WWII AFVs - it looks much better to my eye, and I intend using it again when I eventually get round to building the Airfix Buccaneer S2B. Will follow your build with interest - have fun with it ! Q

Welcome David. I spent some happy times in Kenora, and loved the climate despite the temperature extremes. Didn't feel cold until I got off the plane back in damp Scotland! What kind of projects do you do? Q

A magnificent project Alistair. Leuchars has a special place in my heart - I'll watch with interest. Q

Oi !!! How dare you make such insinuations??!! 😡 oh wait ...you mean ask professionally..... Looking very nice FB - love the scheme. Q