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Everything posted by dromia

  1. Gay to me means happy, carefree and cheery.
  2. Are you reviews based on building the kit or just interpreting from the trees, transfers and the instructions?
  3. I would be tempted to seek a refund from the retailer as they are providing a product that is not fit for purpose.
  4. I have a stock of those that I use to make replacement bands for my flex-i-files.
  5. By the way I an a confirmed Flexi-file user.
  6. I put it down to a marketing trick to make their pads seem finer. See here: Grit tables. Column 2 is the pads usually used in plastic modelling. Column 5 is the US grit standards that we are more commonly used to. Column 6 is the european grit standards that can be had here on occasion. I'm not saying the pads don't work but they are expensive for what they are and seem a tad disingenuous to me. There are cheaper alternatives of at least equal efficacy.
  7. The Micro mesh grit numbering system is of their own creation and bare no relation to the european or american standard grit numbers that we commonly use.
  8. You might find the contributions to this thread about me moving on to my Custom Micron informative. https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235070771-iwata-custom-micron-cm-b-v2/&tab=comments#comment-3656062
  9. Haven't used this set but the ones I have are first rate. From David Parkins web site https://www.djparkins.com/product.php?productid=17806&cat=251&page=1
  10. Yes I am a MAC valve advocate and user but don't like them on the airbrush where they are clumsy, restricting and a spilt paint magnet with the exposed threads being a chew on to clean. My MAC valve is fitted to the quick connect on the air hose like this Air volume control quick connect. so that I have the benefits of the valve on all my airbrushes. A help in appreciating its uses is to remember that it does not control the pressure the regulator on your compressor does that, the MAC valve controls the volume of air going into the airbrush, regardless of the MAC valve setting the air will always be at the pressure set on the regulator.
  11. I am a confirmed Iwata user my current main use airbrush Is a Custom Micron CM-B(2). Which I am completely happy with. I will not use water based paints, my paints of choice are enamel with some cellulose brands. I had a Harder and Steinbeck for a year or so but could not get on with it at all. I worked OK but I found it clumsy, awkward and agricultural to use. When looking for a fine spray airbrush the choice was between the Iwata CM-B or the Procon Boy PS 771, I chose the Iwata because it was more compact and didn't have that awkward MAC valve up front. However the Procon Boy parts , needle and nozzle, fit my CM-B with only a very slight, not noticeable unless using a eye glass degradation at the edge of the spray, so the Procon Boy airbrushes seem to be as near as damn it Iwatas. There fore I would suggest that you consider the Mr Hobby Procon boy range, Iwata quality at less cost.
  12. Forgot to say I undercoat my chromes with a smooth and glossy black finish with Mr Colour GX2 Ueno black being my undercoat of choice
  13. In my experience BMF seems to have a shelf life, sheets that have been stored for while, say over nine months, either in the stockist inventory or in your own stock it losses its adhesion. Bit of a lottery really as you never know how long it has been around before your purchase. Stuart Semple's mirror chrome is very good but is very expensive as you seem to be paying for the packaging and the "trendy arty" presentation. Modo chrome (Malaysia) and Gaia Notes (Japan) both do excellent chromes and seem to be celebrated by the Gunpla devotees, both are hard to get in the UK and can prove expensive if bought alone from abroad but if compared to the Stuart Semple's product then not that expensive.
  14. 2"-3". Any further and it dusts.
  15. I find it needs spraying at high pressure in my experience, I go at 30-35psi in my Mr Hobby .5 airbrush. I am a devoted enamels and cellulose paint user but I am happy to swap 'tween MrSurfacer and Stynlrez for priming as Stynlrez when down behaves as well as an enamel or cellulose primer. Interestingly I have a bottle of the UMP branded Stynlrez and that appears to have gone "off" it has lost it sticking ability, won't feather when sanded and just peels away like all the rest of those pathetic water-based "acrylics". The real Stynlrez which is as old as the UMP stuff still works as advertised as does the One Shot I have but that is newer about a year old.
  16. Moving to "acrylics" will still need the same respiratory protection as you use with enamels. Water based "acrylics" may not smell as bad as enamels or be as toxic but they do create aerial particles that means an extraction fan and a particulate mask are still needed. Combine that with the weaknesses of "acrylic" as a paint compared to enamels as has been described above and for me at least there is no gain in using "acrylics" and much to be gained by using enamels especially with the advent of good odourless enamel thinners like those sold by Colourcoats, I use Naphtha for cleaning and some thinning which is cheap when bought by the gallon this again has little smell so they don't disturb the domestic harmony. I started using Aeromaster "acrylics" when they first appeared in the 90s and felt then that they had some merit but left the hobby shortly afterwards. On getting back into it again a few years ago I went with "acrylics" for the first year but was so disappointed with their performance that I reverted to my enamels and have never looked back. They can be made to work as many "acrylic" painted examples on here testify but the faff on to get something almost as good as enamels to me just wasn't worth the effort or expense. I do however use from time to time Stynlrez primer, if all "acrylics" were like this then that would be a step change for them. Stynlrez is sold re-labeled by UMP as the Ultimate primer and by AK as One Shot.
  17. I have ordered one of each, been longing for a flea kit for years and the Aeroclub kit is very elusive and sells for funny money when they do appear. There is a photo etch example which I wouldn't touch being photo etch adverse. I have ordered these with a little trepidation as cyanoacrylates are the work of the devil and will not be used by me so quick cure epoxy will be my route, the construction seems simple enough, famous last words, but the site says that the resin is brittle so getting pieces free from their tress could be fraught.
  18. Aye I have the same image which I don't find very helpful in relation to the items on the sheet. Peering at the photo there would seem to be a lot of redundant transfers on the sheet.
  19. I have the the Kits-World (yes I know their 3D transfers are just as bad as their 2D ones) ejection seat set for the Phantom. Par for the course with this company there are no placement instructions for the items on the sheet. Some like the handles are obvious but the belts are a nightmare, I have gone goggle eyed trying to compare that which is on the seat in photographs with the items on the transfer sheet and am still none the wiser as to what bit goes where. I am using them on Tamiya's 1/48 scale F-4B. Anyone solved this Gordian knot of a problem. I know there are other routes that are easier but the kit ejection seats have come up nice and some seat belts would set them off and the Kits-World is what I have to hand. Finding good decipherable images of how seat belts fit is a real issue I find, which is why I usually end up with resin seats with the belts moulded. I have had success with the HGW belts in 1/32 scale but they are too fiddly for me in 1/48 but I like the look of the separate belts. I used the Quinta belts on a recent build they looked well when fitted but did not like being fitted and had a propensity to break. How ever I feel that I could solve that problem with some trial and error hence my trying a Kits-World set.
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