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lesthegringo

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  1. I've been making more detailed replacement parts on my resin 3D printer for my Tamiya 1/12th Ferrari 312T4, things like the vented brake discs, pedal assemblies, radiators. Not difficult and they look so much better than the kit parts as they have no seams and you can use photos to make them more accurate. I imagine this kit will generate more of these, and if I can do them, I can imagine the aftermarket will be quick to get them out there. Reading the blurb on the facebook page, the fact that they will include Carbon Fibre decals will be a good saving though, and while not to everyone's tastes (certainly not mine) so will the PE radiator faces
  2. Back then I think that the sponsorship for most races had it - while I understand that there were some exceptions, we all know what the cars really had most of the time. Trust me, I have no desire to smoke and having a correctly decalled car for the period won't make me want to start. Look at german aircraft from the WW2 era, while some avoid completely, check out Duxford for the aircraft there - the implications are far worse. Most kits have the ability to correctly show what the aircraft looked like. It will be what it will be I suppose - but if they are not supplied OEM, someone will sell them on the aftermarket. I don't want to kick up a storm, but I hope they treat us like adults who have a choice Cheers Les
  3. Will it have just politically correct decals or the actual ones to replicate the real cars? Oh, and while we are at it, ***cough cough Lotus 79..? please...? cough cough....**** Les
  4. I was going to stop buying new kits as moving with them is fraught, but this one is really testing my resolve..... if it was a Granby boxing I think I would have already capitulated Les
  5. I think I have the settings at 80% - I'll check. Maybe 30 seconds is a bit long for the base layers too, I might try a test halving that Cheers Les
  6. Hi all, I am using the water washable Eelegoo grey resin on my Mono X, and despite playing around with the settings quite a bit, I am geting reasonable prints, but with quite a large over print for the first mm or so, then after that the outer edges are left with half cured resin as a sort of gellid residue. As a result I am having to mechanically scrape off the gelly stuff, which can be pretty tenacious during the clean up phase, followed by tedious manual removal of the over printed layers. It is set to 0.075 layer height, with only 3 bottom layers, with base layer height is 30 secs with 1.7 for the subsequent layers. Can anyone advise on this? I produce mainly mechanical parts printing direct to the buildplate so that I guarantee a flatt(ish) back face so reducing the over print would be very helpful, even if I have to scrape off the goo. while I do get overprint (do they call it 'elephant foot'?) on other resins it is not as pronounced and I certainly don't get the half cured goo. The thing is, a) it is vastly less stinky, b) cleanup with water is so much less unpleasant and c) you can't buy 3D printer resins here so I am stuck with what I have Cheers Les
  7. Thanks Ray; a bit of experimentation is in order then. One thing about the oils is that as I almost exclusively use Mr Color Lacquers now, I can always remove it back to the paint if I screw up, although I will never say that I like to do it. One thing I jhave been meaning to do is to get some of the artists odourless thinners, I've been told it is less aggressive that the turpentine I get locally Cheers Les
  8. All, after following the advice given on this forum for producing a faded look (which I am happy is working but maybe I have not done quite enough yet) I am still letf with a model that is a bit too clean. Faded a little, but clean. Now exhausts and oil / hydraulic fluid stains I can do with oil paints, however there is a a sort of slightly drimy look to panels that I see on many photos that I want to reproduce. We are not talking about the mottling, blotchy effect that can be reproduced by preshading using stencils or freehand airbrush with a darker or lighter paint, I'm talking about the panel to panel grubby look. If anyone can suggest ways to do this I would love to see them, weathering techniques pop up plenty online but not this Cheers Les
  9. Thanks - will give it a go! Cheers Les
  10. Hi all, I have just 'finished' a four colour camo on a MiG-25, but want to knock it back a bit as it is too bright. While I don't want to go for a boneyard bleached out look, it could do with some fading if nothing else to make it appear less toy like. It will be weathered with stains ets further down the line, but I would like your advice of how to give it a subtle faded look without overdoing it. Also, I believe that the fading would also apply to the markings etc, but would like some confirmation on this as I know some forces to refresh them Cheers Les
  11. Thanks Dennis - I have found that as long as you are not being stupid about it and try and ship huge quantities of stuff, a couple of little jars of paint and a small bottle of thinners is tolerated, but of course it has to be sealed and in the check in baggage not the cabin. Generally I buy a kit, and put a couple of items in the box with it. Having said that, large quantities of paint or thinners would definitely be frowned upon When I lived in the UAE I used to buy from Lucky Model on line and that worked well, but unfortunately here in Qatar it doesn't seem to work so well. It takes a long time (up to three months) and is also expensive; you can double the cost of your purchase. Added to that Lucky Model seem to have more stuff on back order than they have in stock (at least for what I want) so even if I tried them I would be disappointed. As I don't need much I imagine it will not be an isseu for the small amount I need, assuming I find it of course Les
  12. Ah yes, Airfix EE Lightning for the 'just put it in there somewhere' approach to the undercariage parts. And you reminded me - the headrests on the MiG-25 are flat on the rear, non-visible side and concave on the visible side that the pitots head goes into. So guess where they put the sprue gate...? And of course the curvature is such that the sprue nippers cannot get in. As for thick sprue gates, the Kinetic F-16 has sprue gates thicker than the parts that they attach, and of course where they do most damage to the part when removing Or aftermarket resin / PE / whatever items designed specifically for a certain kit that do not actually fit that particular kit
  13. All, there are no model shops here in Qatar, but I have a forthcoming business trip to Berlin. Looking on line there are some shops there but I will only have chance to visit one due to time contraints. I want some supplies, preferably lacquer paints and thinners, if possible Gunze but Tamiya is fine too. I have enough models to keep me occupied for a good while, however you know what we are all like when it comes to impulse purchases, so if it is well stocked all the better. Nonetheless it is supplies that I most need so would appreciate any guidance as to which shop would have what I need Cheers Les
  14. Some years ago I posted a chat topic about how some kit manufacturers can come up with some startlingly stupid or ill conceived kit features - often on a model where the rest of the kit is a paragon of good fit and design. If I recall correctly the offenders I called out last time were the 1/48th Eduard F6-F drop tank, Academy F4 undercarriage and nose gear bay, and the Kittyhawk Su-22 nose cone. Well I have another couple of additions to that list. I am currently building the ICM / Revell MiG-25, which in many ways is a stellar kit. However how is it that they have managed to come up with what has got to be the most absurd undercarriage leg to wheel attachment imaginable. Instead of a straight, round peg it is a little conical spike. That wouldn't be so bad if the mating surface in the wheel was a conical hole, but no, it is a circular opening that is not conical. As a result there is no positivity to the join, plus it is weak. Considering the sheer size of the beast, it's worse than useless. But just to make sure that the maximum pain is givn by this technique, they also used it on the tailplane fixings....grrrrrr And I also have to point out the instrument panel, which is beautifully depicted by a clear styrene rear with proruding instrument bezel glass that goes through a perforated IP front panel. You then put the IP decal over the front of all this, effectively obscuring the IP 'glass', rendering that whole assembly method useless. Really? Les
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