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lesthegringo

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  1. Take a look at this link https://www.instructables.com/12v-to-3v-Voltage-Regulator/ Les
  2. I got the AnyCubic Mono X, and am very happy with it for the stuff I have been printing, after a few teething issues and experiments with a few resin types. I have no hesitation in recommending it, though for small very detailed parts like the ones above it is obvious the Phrozen Sonic Mini 4K is a very good printer. Les
  3. Thanks - and definitely nice prints! Les
  4. Agree with this, UV resins also give you the chance to apply and clean up excess before comitting to curing it, plus you can push the clear parts fully into place and cure; very helpful when the canopy part is curved slightly differently to the locating part. Les
  5. I have some superb Mineshima ones, they do square, v-shaped, round and flat ones that are super sharp and great quality. Of course, not cheap.... Les
  6. Yes, this is my method too, rolling the curved blade over a glass sheet is the best way I've found to reduce dstortion, plus it's less likely to result in the part pinging off to distant lands. As for the primer, there are some photo-etch frets that use a type of stainless steel, and the metal primer does nothing. I suggest testing on a corner of the fret first to make sure you don't waste time and expensive primer, if it scratches off with your nail after drying it's not going to help. Cheers Les
  7. Thanks guys for the feedback - and nice little model! Once thing I have concluded is that the black AnyCubic basic resin is actually quite translucent, and is definitely a bit more touchy than the Elegoo ABS-Like grey resin I have also been trialling. I've managed to make some lovely buttons and knobs for my A-10C flight sim cockpit including some beautifully rendered knurled knobs, plus some really nice bits for my Ferrari 312T4 driving sim dash and a steering wheel boss with a nice Ferrari emblem. The Elegoo stuff is a lot easier to get good prints with, however cleanup with local cellulose type thinners is less than optimal due to the strong smell and rather aggressive nature of the thinners Cheers Les
  8. I've used them, beware that they are very thin, easily torn and are super sensitive to setting solutions. It appears that they are designed to be used over a base brown wood colour, to just give the grain effect. I also found that the HGW adhesive was very weak, and I had issues with flaking when dry. However properly applied they look good Cheers Les
  9. My mix is that water washable 'school glue' mixed with a bit of poster paint and a few drops of washing up liquid. It means it's easy to see where you put it, the washing up liquid means it will wet a bit better. It can also be cut using a sharp knife, and can be disolved using water after if it doesn't just peel off. I don’t recommend this for anywhere where it can wick into crevices though, it's best use is smoother surfaces without tight creases (like where flaps meet the wings). However it is my go to for the inside of canopies so that they can be painted before fitting Les
  10. I've been using Elegoo's ABS like resin (the grey one) very successfully since I started about two months ago. I was using AnyCubic's basic black resin just before that, but the Elegoo stuff seems less finecky However I have been told on these forums that Elegoo's water washable stuff is good, so I am going to try that, not least because of the strong smell of the other resins, plus the need for IPA to do post print clean up (IPA is not freely available here). I have a bottle on order and will report back once I've done a couple of prints Les
  11. *sigh* I fall for it every time, I see that this topic has been updated and go rushing to go and see, only to be disappointed to see that there is no real progress! Oh well, eventually we will see something from one of the newer manufacturers, and I have come to realise that for me, this is the number 1 on my wish list. When it finally materialises I will be waiting with my build mat and Tamiya Extra thin! Les
  12. I believe on the Zvezda Mi-24 thread it was discussed complete with diagrams / photos that really explained it well Les
  13. Nice one, it will take a bit of practice but you will get there. If I may say, my (admittedly very limited) experience with Resin 3D printers like the Photon Mono X I bought shows that for the sort of thing you are doing they are much more suitable. And for me, the real surprise that I paid a quarter of the price for the Photon than I did for my Lulzbot Mini. The march of progress is incredible! Let us know if there is any help you need Les
  14. Guys, received a good build plate from AnyCubic, and it is a complete build plate, so that is fantastic support from them. I have checked the flatness and there is a marked difference between the original and the new one, so hopefully this helps. I will try and use 22 grit wet or dry on a flat surface to try and improve the original as a back up I have been using the old build plate to print parts using the ends where the distortion is less, and I have to say the definition, finish and quality is truly incredible. You have to play with details to get things looking right, as the details can be so fine that you have to exaggerate them, and there is also quite a game with supports with respect to positioning and size, plus the orientation and also design features to help with warping. Nonetheless I am very happy with it and the scope is really limited to my imagination. My A10-C sim cockpit now has a full suite of correctly shaped knobs, complete with knurled finish where appropriate, and the texture finish has to be seen to be believed! I can very much recommend the Mono X! Les
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