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About lesthegringo

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  1. The front transparency has a little gap where it sits in the fuselage cutout for the part. It looks like they have moulded part of the fuselage with the windshield to make glueing easier, away from the transparent part, but that the cutout is slightly too long. Nothing major. Cheers Les
  2. Perhaps a bit nit-picky, but the fit of the windshield part is not fantastic, the gap at the rear is unusual for Eduard's normally high standards. I also see that the wingtip trailing edge has gone, that's normally my trick! Still, looks good generally for me to my inexpert eye Cheers Les
  3. I got the Amigo set, and they are amazing - on these aircraft the exhausts are so massive that they are really worth splashing out for cheers Les
  4. A few years ago I posted this on the ARC forums - we are inexorably going that way! http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/index.php?/topic/289520-ready-made-cockpits Cheers Les
  5. Having used both the CMK resin u/c bays and the Eduard photo etched set for the bays, I would go for the latter. The fit of the resin parts is pretty horrible unfortunately in my opinion. That I detest photo etch shows how much hassle it was that I recommend the PE stuff Once you've got it to fit ok it looks good, but expect to have to use filler and thinning techniques Cheers Les
  6. I'll get my vernier caliper on them, see if I can measure them with reasonable accuracy Les
  7. Ok, thanks - so Trumpeter got something right then! Cheers
  8. I see the Trumpeter kits call out Gunze 330, but I am wary of their callouts - is that a correct colour to use? I would have to go and get some, so before I go to the hassle of of visiting the 'local' stockist I want to be sure! Thanks Les
  9. Evilbay does a load of stuff like this, I got some 2mm diameter 1mm thick magnets (100 I think ) for a couple of quid delivered Cheers Les
  10. Hope that Aires GE exhaust nozzle fits better than the Aires P&W one I got! My Kinetic F-16MLU has ended up a shelf queen because of that! Looking good, though, and a different subject Cheers Les
  11. Looks great - now what we need is a build review. Hint hint...... Cheers Les
  12. I have the Tamiya scriber, and can agree with all the above - i.e. it is very aggressive, but multiple light passes is the way to go. However what I'd like to know is how to 'soften' the scribed line and remove the rather rough edge left by the blade Cheers Les
  13. I have some good quality, expensive airbrushes that are good for the finest details and where you need precision, in fact my DeVilbiss Aerograph 63 is nearly 30 years old (£177 back in 1989!) and is still going well, even if you have to thorouhly clean it every time. The Creos P770 is also brilliant...... but.... I have a number of those cheapo airbrushes you can get from Amazon or evilbay, and despite sometimes getting a panning by some people I find them to be perfectly good for most of the work, especially where I'm either having to use multiple colours for effects, or I need a quick session painting small parts that are different colours, like interiors. I can load, paint, put the airbrush on my multi brush holder, get another, load paint etc. If I'm limited to half an hour I can get a lot more done, then later I can clean the brushes as a job lot. Purists will have their opinion, and that's fine as I do believe that each should work how they prefer. Part of the reason they are criticised so much I think is down to the fact that they do need to be understood more than expensive units to get good results but once you learn their little foibles and how to troubleshoot them I think they can do a great job. However it is clear that their biggest Achilles heel is the nozzle sealing. That irritating intermittent paint flow problem, or even more bizzarre situation where paint only flows when the needle is being moved back and forth is almost always to do with the nozzle installation, either loose or not sealing. Of course, being made from the cheapest brass material, you can't be too aggressive with tightening. A lot of the units come with tiny o rings that go between the nozzle and the main body, and in some cases between the air cap and main body. While you can put wax or similar in there when the ring deteriorates, the aggressive thinners tend to leach these out. What I want to find are teflon or similar equivalents to the rubber ones. If I can find a source of good replacements, I could then treat them as a consumable. Nozzles and needles are freely available, but for some reason the seals are not. Of course, if someone is selling bags of 100 rubber seals, that would also do So if anyone out there can suggest where to find these, or even some completely left field alternative (for example my wife bought me a nail varnish rack for storing my paints) I would be really glad to hear of it! Cheers Les
  14. Thanks guys A couple of comments, the Tamiya primer was a new can, although clearly I can't comment on how long it was on the stockists shelf. Also, if you are priming small parts, 90% of the primer will be prepping the surface of my spray booth, rather than bits of model Scratchbuilder, you didn't mention a brand for your etch primer, is it something freely available? Venelin, I'm pretty sure the 1500 grey Mr surfacer is stocked in one of the local shops, the leveling thinner certainly is, so will look into that. However, my (fading) memory rings a little bell that it is prone to spider webbing and clogging spraygun tips, is this true and if so is there any way of reducing or avoiding it? Cheers Les
  15. Guys, I've been using Alclads white primer recently after some suggestions here to prevent paint peeling off resin parts. It definitely helped, and after taking the masking off the EE lighting that I'd started well before this (some models get put to one side for a while when I run out of impetus ) I certainly wish I'd primered that too. Great swathes of paint came off with the masking media, so I assume 1) I made a hash of prepping and cleaning the surface, and 2) a primer would have probably improved things. Possibly 3) the Airfix plastic needed extra care too, but others deal with it so I shouldn't blame it. The problem I'd had that stopped me using primers in the past is that they generally come in rattle cans, which tend to blast on the primer with no control or finesse. They are also wasteful, expensive, inconsistent, and with Tamiya primer even after ten minutes of vigorous shaking, it was spitting little flecks of dried primer, which then required me to sand back after priming. As (up to this point) I'd never really had any issues with paint peeling, I sort of put the primering thing into the 'can't be bothered wirh the extra hassle' box. However I did buy a bottle of the Alclad primer, presumably with the intent at the time to give it a whirl, and recent experience with it shows that a good primer that can be applied with an airbrush is the better way to go. Unfortunately I only have one bottle of Alclad primer, and locally I can't find a stockist. Getting any mail here is difficult let alone parcels from outside, so I need to find a good alternative that can be used with an airbrush. I am not into decanting spray can stuff, most ends up everywhere but the intended container plus they are expensive for what you get. I predominantly use Gunze lacquers, but also use humbrol, Modelmaster, Revell and Tamiya enamels, plus for specific uses gunze and tamiya acrylics. So, what bottle / can / jar based primers can you recommend, and are there any that are like the etch primers used on cars that bite slightly into the surface to give a bit more adhesion? Cheers Les
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