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Found 1,169 results

  1. UH-1D update sets, seatbelts & masks 1:48 Eduard - For Kitty Hawk Kit The Kitty Hawks kit is a good one. Eduard are now along with a few update sets to detail the kit. Interior Set (49861) This set is for the interior, mainly the cockpit. There is one nickel platted coloured fret and one plain one. The colour fret is dominated buy the large instrument panel, plus the centre console and overhead panel. The brass fret contains parts for the cockpit overhead windows, inside grab handles, door gun sights, door gun feed chutes and brackets inside the rear. If wanted the instrument panel set is available as a Zoom set which contains just the coloured fret. Full Set Zoom Set Cargo Interior (48935) This set provides the rear cabin or cargo area. There is one large part for the floor area and anther for the overhead,also additional smaller parts to replace lost lost when removing the floor area in the kit. Seatbelts (FE862) This set provides a full sets of seatbelts. These are the newer Steel type. Not only are the belts provided for the pilots but the rear seats as well. In addition new parts are provided for the kit seats. Masks (EX564) This set provides all the masks for the glazing in the yellow tape. Some of the bigger and more complex curved areas will require the centre parts to be masked in addition to the masks supplied. Review samples courtesy of
  2. P-51D PE update sets & masks 1:48 Eduard - For Airfix Kit The new Airfix kit is a good one. Eduard are now along with a few update sets to detail the kit. Interior Set (49861) This set is for the interior, mainly the cockpit. There is one nickel platted coloured fret and one plain one. The colour fret is dominated buy the mulit part instrument panel. Also included here are side consoles additional cocpit parts and gunsight parts. The brass fret contains parts for the canopy framing, radio area, various access panels, seat parts and the armoured head reat. . If wanted the coloured fret is available as a Zoom set which contains just the coloured fret. Full Set Zoom Set Exterior (48930) This set provides parts for the radiator, inside rear of the radiator bay, insdie the gear wells, the rear wheel bay doors, vents on the engine cowling, parts for the gear legs and main gear doors and new fins (4 sets) for bombs to be carried. Seatbelts (FE854) This set provides a full sets of seatbelts. These are the newer Steel type. Masks (EX560) This set provides all the masks for the glazing and wheels in the yellow tape. Review samples courtesy of
  3. Hs 123 update set & masks 1:48 Eduard - For Gaspatch models Kit The Gaspatch kit is an excellent one. Eduard are now along with an update sets to further detail the kit. Update Set & Seatbelts (49860) This set is for the interior and exterior. There is one nickel platted coloured fret and one steel one for the seatbelts. The colour fret is dominated buy the large instrument panel. Also on this fret are parts for the engine, cockpit, pilot entry door, rudder pedals, and the cowling straps. There is also a template for marking the aerial positions on the tail. If wanted the zoom set has just the steel seatbelts. Set & Belts Zoom belt Set Masks (EX563) This set provides all the masks for the glazing and wheels in the yellow tape. Review samples courtesy of
  4. Bf 109G-4 Update set 1:48 Eduard - For Eduard Kit Update Set (48933) This set is for the Eduard Bf 109G-4 exterior. The set arrives on one brass fret and provides details for a fuselage opening, inside the wheel wells, the radiator flaps, the main gear doors & legs, along with a tank strap for the centre line fuel tank. Review sample courtesy of
  5. Super Seasprite BIG ED Set 1:48 Eduard - For Kitty Hawk Kit The Kitty Hawk Superseasprite has been out for a short time now and Eduard are now along with a few update sets to detail the kit. The BIG ED set brings together the 4 sets available but with a saving for buying them as a job lot. Interior Set (49834) This set though not marked is for the interior. There is one nickel platted coloured fret and one plain one. The colour fret is dominated buy the large two part instrument panel, centre console and overhead console. Also on this fret is a control box for the dash and other cockpit fittings such as levers. The brass fret contains sides & tops for the seats, a new floor pan, pedals, and the bulkhead through to the main cabin. Seatbelts (FE837) This set provides two full sets of seatbelts for the pilots seats. These are the newer Steel type. Cargo Interior (49847) This set is for the rear of the helo. There is one nickel platted coloured fret and one plain one. The coloured fret provides a full set of seatbelts for the rear seat, also the instrument panels for the rear. A prominent feature is the red webbing seats for the rear compartment, and the cargo net for the rear bulkhead. Some rod will be required to make the webbing seats. The brass fret has the rear cabin floor, side for the rear seat, and all the equipment racks. Masks (EX554) This set provides all the masks for the wheels and glazing in the yellow tape. BIG ED Review sample courtesy of
  6. F-111C Aardvark RAAF Academy upgrade boxing 1/48 -Cutting Edge seamless Tripple Plow I intakes - Eduard seatbelts - Eduard detail for the nozzle shrouds (for the HB kit actually) - Montex masks - Academy BRU rack with Mk-82 bombs (from the E model kit ) Eduard Mk.82 bombs here: work in progress I made the swing wings work, against the general opinion here that model kits should not be toys.... that is alright, but the F-111 looks fantastic with wings spread , in comabt postion and swept back, especially the long wing C, G and FB models ... so... I have top say, that due to the long time it took me to build, inproper storage and repeated swinging, the inner pylons do not move any longer the outer ones do, but coold do with a bit more movement on their own.... I have to align them, especially when moving the wing totally back ... whatever, the wing moves nicely and the pylons do not wobble around, so I am quite content! frontal view Some silvering unfortunately, depending on light...I guess more clear coats befor decaling would have helped :~) some rear angle: incl bomb load in bomb tail-configuration "+" cockpit windows are quite big, so visibility to the inside is astonishingly good! and yes she is big! in her new home: and some flying sunset: hope you like it! thanks for comments!! cheers, Werner
  7. Spanish Airforce F-104G / C.8 104 Esquadron Torrejon / Madrid 1/48 another GB, another try! The Mirage GB just finished, the Flanker started long time ago... ingredients: Decal detail: found an interesting photo of a Spanish C.8. it carries I guess Expal build MK-83 GP bombs probably BR-500s http://www.916-starfighter.de/Large/Stars/wS731.htm are the wing pylons provided by DACO correct for bomb loads? convering the white wings; top side only or bottom also in white?? Thanks, Werner
  8. Hello guys, here is my latest finished kit - Eduard´s nice Fokker Dr.I 1/48. The kit was built as a birthday gift As usualy there was at least a bit of scratchbuilding, even though most of it is not visible on the finished kit - removed internal structure on the cockpit sides, made new one from evergreen stripss - added details to the cockpit floor - completely reworked bulk behind the seat - the seat holders were left from the original part, rest is home made from evergreen strips and tabs - created new fuel tank to the front section - thinned the front fuselage top part - added padding around the cockpit from lead wire and rubber band from cable - added details to the machine guns - added details and wires to the engine Sadly one of the machine guns got broken before the photos were taken and carpet monster swallowed the tail struts and there was no time to make new one.. And finished model here I m not happy with the propeller both back and front side were made by same process, but on the front side, the differences between dark and light wood almost disapeared Well, thats it for now thanks a lot for looking and have a great day guys
  9. Fw.190A-4 Photo-Etch, Masks & Decals (for Eduard) 1:48 Eduard Launched to coincide with the release of their new Fw.190A-4 kit, which we reviewed here, Eduard have created a host of sets that can be used to improve on the already impressive level of detail found in the box. There are so many sets that we will break them down between Photo-Etch (PE) and resin Brassin sets, and once posted, we'll cross link them for completeness. As usual with Eduard's Photo-Etch (PE) and Mask sets, they arrive in a flat resealable package, with a white backing card protecting the contents and the instructions that are sandwiched between. The decals are in a ziplok type bag, stiffened by a cover sheet and a piece of white card to keep them safe. Fw.190A-4 Upgrade Set (48937) This PE sheet is bare brass, and builds upon the detail of the kit and included PE that comes with the ProfiPACK boxing. It contains a canopy latch for the cockpit; ammo chute details; additional gear bay sidewall skins; new dual-layer gear leg covers with brake hoses and tie-down loops; bomb shackle details; gear bay retraction jack parts (including additional hosing); gun port surrounds; cockpit armour support, raised strip on the canopy and a frame that attaches to the outside of the windscreen. Seatbelts STEEL (FE863) In case you don't already know, they are Photo-Etch (PE) steel, and because of their strength they can be etched from thinner material, which improves realism and flexibility in one sitting. Coupled with the new painting method that adds perceived extra depth to the buckles and other furniture by shading, they are more realistic looking and will drape better than regular brass PE. Fw.190A Landing Flaps (48936) Eduard landing flaps use an ingenious technique to achieve excellent true-to-scale flaps using few parts, and requiring the modeller to simply remove the retracted flaps from the lower wing, plus scrape the upper wings to accommodate the thickness of the completed bays. Each half of the flap (bay and flap itself) is constructed in the same manner, by twisting and folding over the attached ribs to create a 3D shape. The bay glues to the inside of the upper wing and the flap attaches to the rear wall of the new bay. Repeat this for the other side, and you're almost done. The bays have a "dimpled" panel, which is laminated to the bay after pressing the details through with the tip of a ball-point pen, and in this instance the flaps fold up simply into a roughly triangular profile, with a strip running through the middle, the location for which is shown on a scrap diagram. Masks (EX565) Supplied on a sheet of yellow kabuki tape, these pre-cut masks supply you with a full set of masks for the canopy, with compound curved handled by using frame hugging masks, while the highly curved gaps are in-filled with either liquid mask or offcuts from the background tape. In addition you get a set of hub/tyre masks for the wheels, allowing you to cut the demarcation perfectly with little effort. Fw.190A Stencils (D48029) If you have a kit with no stencils from Eduard or another manufacturer, have stuffed up your existing set (we're only human afterall), or are looking for spares in case you do, this set of the stencils included with the kit will be of interest. It is printed to Eduard's usual high standard in Czechia (the new name for the Czech Republic if you didn't know) and comes with a colour diagram that shows where each one should go on the airframe. Brassin Resin Sets for Engine & Gun Bays These additional sets can be found in a separate review here to save your scrolling finger. Review sample courtesy of
  10. Focke-Wulf Fw.190A Update Sets (for Eduard) 1:48 Eduard Brassin Launched to coincide with the release of their new Fw.190A-4 kit, which we reviewed here, Eduard have created a host of sets that can be used to improve on the already impressive level of detail found in the box. There are so many sets that we will break them down between Photo-Etch (PE) and resin Brassin sets, and once posted, we'll cross link them for completeness. As usual with Eduard's larger resin sets, they arrive in the familiar Brassin rectangular box, with the resin parts safely cocooned on dark grey foam inserts, and the instructions wrapped around them. The smaller set is supplied in their clear clamshell box with similar protection afforded by grey foam, and the instructions doubling as the header card. Some of the sets are specific to the A-4 variant, while others can be used across the whole range of A model 190s, which will be indicated in the sub headings. Fw.190A Wingroot Gun Bays (648356) This set permits the modeller to depict the wing root gun bays open, which first requires the removal of a portion of the upper wing from the kit parts, as indicated in red on the instructions. The lower wing is then fitted with blanking plates for the cartridge chutes and new resin barrels before attention turns to the new bay inserts. These have the gun breeches added along with a short length of 0.2mm wire from your own stock, arranged as per the scrap drawings, which helpfully have an arrow indicating the direction of flight. The bays are then inserted into the prepared aperture in the upper wing, and a PE bay lip is attached to the plastic to finish it off neatly. A small section of the lip that locates the wing spar will need removing, after which the wing halves can be mated and later in the build/painting the bay doors can be added to the lip that is moulded into the bays for a good strong joint. Fw.190A-4 Cockpit (648351) Consisting of resin, PE, decals and a small sheet of clear acetate film, the largest part of which is the cockpit tub with the aft decking and side consoles already moulded in. The separate seat is prepared with its cushion and a set of pre-painted PE seatbelts, and fitted to the tub after the removal of some moulding flash that is indicated in red. Resin control column, resin and PE rudder pedals, and the instrument panel are made up next, with the latter having the choice of using the PE panel with pre-printed dials, or a detailed resin part over which you apply a decal of the instruments. Your choice! The panel fits on ledges at the front of the side consoles, and the resin gunsight with PE and acetate parts slides into a groove in the upper panel. The cowling fits over the top, and it too has cut-outs that need clearing of flash beforehand. To fit the new cockpit inside the fuselage a pair of plastic wedges are removed from the inside, to be replaced with a detailed PE and resin trim wheel. The assemblies should then fit neatly within, alongside the kit bulkhead, assuming you aren't taking advantage of any of the other sets I'll be mentioning in this review. The set includes the opening mechanism and the pilot's head armour, which has a warning decal added to it after painting. The interior roll-over frame is resin, and has delicate PE bracing wires linking to the rear, all of which fits inside the canopy after painting. The canopy then installs as normal. Fw.190A-4 Engine (648352) Inside this unassuming box rests resin and PE parts to construct a complete engine for the deadly little Fw.190, which is so detailed due to Eduard's advanced prototyping and casting facilities. Incredibly, much of the detail is amalgamated into large parts to keep down the number of castings, starting with the two cylinder banks, onto which the exhaust collector pipework is attached. A PE wiring loom and resin ancillary plate are added to the rear, the remainder of the exhaust tubing and clustered outlet pipes surround this, followed by a complex assembly of flat and tubular frames that make up the engine mount. Another wiring loom is fitted to the front of the engine before the reduction housing and prop-shaft are inserted, after which the engine can be mounted to the fuselage. Red areas mark the parts of the fuselage cowling that should be removed, and four holes should be drilled in the plastic bulkhead to accommodate the engine mount parts, which clips within the fuselage halves and locates the assembly firmly within. The nose-ring mates to the remaining fuselage panels, and is joined by a replacement top panel with hoses added for extra detail. The missing panels are all supplied as thin resin parts, with exceptional detail, which is augmented by adding PE fasteners to the edges. They are shown posed open to the correct positions, and you can then choose to fit the kit prop, or leave it off and replace it with a shaft with splined ends if you wish. Colours are called out during construction in Gunze codes, which will help immensely with the complex task. Fw.190A-4 Engine & Fuselage Guns (648355) This set takes the engine set detailed above, and replaces the kit's blank internal bulkhead with a super-detailed alternative, to which the guns, ammo cans and additional plumbing are attached. You will also need some 0.3mm wire to complete the attachment of the gun breeches to the deck. The separate panel that covers the bay is also replaced by an exquisite resin part, with a set of PE fasteners installed around the sides of the bay for added detail. This complete set will allow the modeller to portray some maintenance and re-arming underway, and coupled with the wing gun-bay set with further enhance the candid look of the finished model. Fw.190A-4 Fuselage Guns (648354) If you just want to open up the gun bays, this set allows that by using the appropriate bulkhead parts from the full set (648355) alongside new parts that depict the rear of the engine in a slightly simplified manner, which will be dimly seen past the gun barrels. If you were to buy this set and the engine set separately (for whatever reason), you would end up with a few spare parts in the shape of the aforementioned engine rear plus its mount. Photo-Etch, Masks & Decals These additional sets can be found in a separate review here to save your scrolling finger. Review sample courtesy of
  11. F-14A with Late Wheels BIGSIN Set (SIN64832 for Tamiya) 1:48 Eduard Brassin Tamiya's überkit of the mighty and much-loved F-14 Tomcat is superb, and Eduard have now brought out a number of Brassin sets to further enhance the detail in the rear, where injection moulding can't offer the level of detail and finesse that resin can. Especially Eduard resin, which is amongst the best quality currently available. This collection of sets arrives in a flat black themed box reserved for the BIGSIN sets, and under the layers of protective foam and the instructions, you will find three ziplok bags of resin and one containing the Photo-Etch (PE) parts for two of the component sets, which are further protected by a piece of white card. F-14A Exhaust Nozzles The trunking is quite long on the Tomcat, so is made up of two parts. The shorter section contains the rear face of the engine, into which you place the delicate PE rendition of the afterburner ring, which is made up of four parts, and will need care in correctly assembling it, to which end a number of diagrams are provided to help. The main trunking is a tube with ribbed interior, and attachment rings for the forward end, and the exhaust petals that fit at the rear. The F-14 is usually seen with one nozzle compressed to its smallest aperture and the other relaxed, which is the way it is depicted here using two different mouldings. The finished assemblies slide inside the fuselage, and have a handy "top" inscription on each trunk to assist with alignment. Sympathetic painting will be the key to showing off these parts to their best effect, so spend some time researching the colours typically seen within the trunk and on the nozzles. F-14A Cockpit Set (648312) This set includes thirty one pieces of grey resin, one of clear, two sheets of Photo-Etch (PE) brass, one of which is pre-painted and nickel-plated, plus a small sheet of decals for stencils etc. The instruction booklet covers three sheets of A4 on both sides, and is printed in colour to assist you in placement of parts. The first thing to note is that Eduard don't just produce a set and let you loose with a sanding stick, scalpel and Dremel to make it fit. They give careful consideration to how they can design the set with minimal interruption to the build of the kit, which shows in the later sections where the set is integrated with the kit fuselage. Building commences with the seats though, which are models in themselves. Each one is made from four highly detailed resin parts, plus a number of PE parts from a constructional point of view, and a further set of crew belts, which are all pre-painted so will take little work. Each seat also has a number of stencils applied once painting is completed to give that extra boost to realism. The work is duplicated for both seats of course, including the important ejection initiation pull-loops on the headbox and between the pilot's knees, as well as the anti-flail leg-restraints that pull taut moments before the rocket motor propels the crew member out of the cockpit on a column of flame and fury. The cockpit tubs are large and open, due to the need for room for equipment and good visibility from the large canopy, and here each one is built up separately in the same basic manner. A rear bulkhead is added to the main tub along with sidewalls and equipment specific to the jobs of the pilot and RIO. The detail on the bulkheads and instrument panels is mind-blowing, and scrap diagrams show how to paint them accurately, as always using Gunze colour codes. More decals are used to provide instrument faces in this old-fashioned (compared to the MFD cockpits of today) instrumented cockpit. Rudder pedals, control columns and stowage compartments are added to the assemblies, and once the pilot's instrument panel is painted and installed along with PE parts, the RIO's coaming with realistic material effect over the instrument backs is added before the two assemblies are brought together in the fuselage. Two kit parts are adapted to fit the cockpit, with only one raised section and a brace needing removal. Two pieces of styrene strip 1x0.75x3mm are added under the rear of the pilot's cockpit and four on the RIO's to locate them correctly on the cockpit tray, and that should be about it. Close up the nose, and add the adapted kit sill area, insert the seats you prepared earlier, and finally the pilot's coaming, with clear resin HUD lens. Wheels Early (648304) & Wheels Late (648290) Four resin wheels are supplied, two main wheels with separate hubs, and two nose wheels with their hubs moulded in. Detail is superb both on the tyres and their hubs, with plenty of brake detail on the back side, and the hub pattern is as crisp as you could want. The sidewalls have the marker's marks in raised relief, and the contact surface has circumferential tread cast in. A set of hub masks are included for good measure, pre-cut from a sheet of yellow kabuki tape. Review sample courtesy of
  12. Just a quick message to advise of the most recent bargains we have in stock @ MJW Models! We have these 1/48 kits just added - Eduard F-8E Crusader Ltd Ed, Bf108 Profipack, Bf109G-6 Late Profipack, SE.5a (hispano) Profipack, SE.5a Royal Class, P-39K/N Airacobra Weekend. Hobby Boss - Su-17UM3 Fitter, Su-27 Flanker B, F-14B Tomcat, Su-34 Fullback, MiG-17PFU Fresco E, F-84F Thunderstreak, Focke Wulf Ta152C-1/R14. Meng P-51D Mustang and F-35A Lightning II. And in 1/72 we've recently added the following kits - Eduard Fw190A-8/R2 Profipack, Spitfire F.Mk IXc Profipack, Hellcat Mk I/II Dual Profipack and Bf110D Weekend. Hobby Boss F-14B Tomcat and F-14D Super Tomcat. There's loads more bargains to view as well, on our homepage - many of which we only have 1 or 2 examples of in stock! Check them out now at http://www.mjwmodels.co.uk thanks Mike
  13. Yakovlev Yak 3 Eduard 1/48

    Hello to all, after the vintage race car Fiat 806 Corsa 1/12, my last build, and the american classic car Chevrolet Bel Air Convertible 1957 1/25, I am happy to present here a very different model: the nice Yakovlev Yak 3 Eduard at 1/48. The decision to build this kit comes from my indescriblable enthusiasm for the great Juan Manuel Villalba's "Guide du maquettisme aéronautique" (Histoire et collections ed.), in which, through others, the famous modeler dedicated several pages to a wonderful Yak 3 (everything this man touches turns to gold, imho). My build began in april 2016 and finished in july of the same year. I decided to follow the steps of the master, and came in contact with him (he is not only a great artist, he is also a delicious man, of an extreme kindness). He replied patiently to all the questions I had (and I had many...), and with the book and his hints, I learnt a lot. I would like so much to meet him, we are regularly in contact by mail, but pity, we live so far apart... To be honest, I must say in this build, most of the ideas were not mine but his ones (he would say the contrary, and that definitely, it is my personal work, he is so kind...). I was most of the time just trying to reproduce what he had done before me. I am not ashamed to say that, Woody Allen was also influenced by other directors, before finding his own style (I am a fan). Well, let's leave Juan (he is so modest, he would be embarrassed if I go on...) to see the pics: I will begin with a few photos, screen captures from videos found on YouTube, of the real aircraft, on a restored version: ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- and now the build. My pics will follow logically the steps of construction. Just a word about the kit: except the decal sheet, of quite poor quality, this Profipack Eduard kit is excellent. I have been so critical (rightly) about the Fiat and the Chevrolet, it is fair and important to say too when a kit is very good... Of course, if there are questions, I will reply with pleasure...
  14. Hi. It's time for a new build. As I've stated before I really like Eduards MiG-21's. So much that I'm starting another. This time it'll be a MiG-21bis from Ilmavoimat, The Finnish Airforce. This is what I've got to work with. A MiG-21bis overtree box. url=https://flic.kr/p/ZUmgid][/url]F001 by Bosse Persson, on Flickr And some extra details. F002 by Bosse Persson, on Flickr Cold War Studios resin nose. F003 by Bosse Persson, on Flickr F004 by Bosse Persson, on Flickr F005 by Bosse Persson, on Flickr A pitot from Master, a must have. I glued the ejectionsseat and a droptank together yesterday when I was waiting for some paint to dry. F006 by Bosse Persson, on Flickr The decals are leftovers from my first MiG-21bis. I did that in a Syrian livery. F007 by Bosse Persson, on Flickr Some canopy seal decals from Furball design. F008 by Bosse Persson, on Flickr I'll arm this MiG with 4 R60's infrared missiles and 2 R3R radar missiles, and a 490 liter droptank on the belly. 013 by Bosse Persson, on Flickr I plan to do a speedbuild with this MiG. The plan is to have it done on Finland’s Centenary on December 6th. To be continued..... /Bosse
  15. Hi, Here is my latest build. This is Eduard's rebox of the Hasegawa kit. A very enjoyable build. I used sprue A of the Daco set to get rid of these nasty rivets on the wings but had to fill those on the fuselage. Enjoy, or not Antoine
  16. I've just (almost) finished this kit. I loved every minute of it and will certainly build more. I used the Eduard 'weekend' 109G-6 ERLA boxing, combination of Barracuda decals and Eduard national markings and stencils. I took some photos just in case it gets destroyed during its visit to Telford... image027 by Matt Low, on Flickr image020 by Matt Low, on Flickr image028 by Matt Low, on Flickr image032 by Matt Low, on Flickr I've already spotted some touch ups required, but am pretty pleased with the result. Matt
  17. Focke-Wulf Fw.190A-4 ProfiPACK (82142) 1:48 Eduard Introduced in 1941 to combat the ever-improving Spitfire, the Fw.190 was intended to supplant the Bf.109 if it reached a plateau in development, or run alongside it as a stablemate. Its powerful twin-bank radial engine was installed with a close-fitting cowling and was initially edquipped with an oversized, ducted prop-spinner to keep the engine cool, which was discarded early in development in favour of a fan that ran on the prop's drive-shaft to push air through the cylinder heads, which also facilitated oil cooling. It was also given a wide-track landing gear, which reduced the likelihood of a nose-over, a problem afflicting both the 109 and Spitfire, due to their narrow track and poor forward visibility. When it first encountered Spitfires, it gave the Allied pilots a shock, as they were expecting 109s, not these agile little aircraft. It caused an frenzy of development at Supermarine, which was just part of the leapfrog games played on both sides throughout the conflict. The initial A-1 production version was equipped with a BMW 801 engine, and by the time the A-4 was signed off, it had two 7.92mm guns in the cowling, and a pair of 20mm MG151 cannons in the wing root, all of which were synchronised with the prop's motion, in turn mated to a more powerful version of the BMW engine. There were a number of equipment fits used to give the Würger (Shrike) additional weapons and capabilities, including a pressurised cockpit, rocket tubes and reconnaissance cameras. The A-4 also saw limited service as the F-1 in a ground-attack role, and was eventually replaced by the A-5, which moved the centre-of-gravity forward to accommodate the larger load it was capable of carrying. The Kit Since the initial tooling of the basic A series airframe in 2007, there have been numerous reboxings, additional parts and re-releases of other variants, although the A-4 doesn't seem to have been available in a boxing on its own until now. Eduard's 190 is a great kit, and has stood the test of time well over the last decade, and the moulds have seen additions that keep it current. The ProfiPACK boxing includes extras to improve on the already excellent detail, and arrives in the traditional orange-themed box, which is adorned with a painting of the iconic Butcher bird engaged with a Spitfire. Inside are five grey/blue sprues, one clear, a fret of Photo-Etch (PE) brass, a small sheet of kabuki tape masking material, two decal sheets and the instruction/painting guide in glossy colour printing. Due to the pick-n-mix nature of the sprues there will be a fair quantity of spares left after construction, which are marked on the diagrams with a pale blue overprinting. Construction starts in the cockpit, which is augmented with pre-painted PE side consoles and instrument panels, but also retained are the decals that can be applied to flat panels, as well as the engraved panels for those that prefer to paint their details manually. The tub includes the sharply pointed rear deck, to which you add the rear bulkheads, control column, seat, plastic or PE rudder pedals, pre-painted seatbelts and sundry other parts in styrene and PE. In order to close up the fuselage the cockpit assembly is inserted along with a bulkhead that closes up the front of the tub, two exhaust inserts in the cowling, and the engine assembly, which is only an approximation of the front row of cylinders, plus the reduction gear, as not much will be seen once the cowling is in place. The lower wings are full width, and have a spar fitted that runs to the ends of the gear bays, with detail on the face visible through the apertures. This is augmented by the wheel trays, various ribs and the cannon barrels that protrude through, with the upper wings added after painting of the bay roof detail that is etched into their underside. The completed wing assembly is then offered up to the fuselage, and the missing sections of the cowling with exhaust stubs, gun barrels and troughs are added to the top and bottom of the nose. The two-piece ring finishes the front cowling, and the flying surfaces are glued into to place, including separate rudder and ailerons, and fixed elevators. Two types of tyres are provided for the main gear, which have separate hubs, and fit onto the peg on the ends of the strut, with separate oleo-scissors and captive bay door parts. The retraction gear is installed on the inner side of the leg, and the centre doors fit to the central bar that splits the bays. The tail wheel slots into the rear, crew step, gun barrels and pitot probes are installed, then the three-bladed paddle prop is completed with spinner and fan behind it, with a peg at the rear fitting into a corresponding hole in the engine front. Different open and closed canopies are provided, and are outfitted with head armour before being added to the airframe along with the windscreen part. The last touch is to add the gear-down indicator pegs to the tops of the wings, which are made from tiny PE parts. If you are rigging the aerial wire to the tail, remember that if you pose the canopy open, the wire can appear relaxed, although many photos also show it taut, so check your references. Markings This ProfiPACK edition gives you five decal options, with plenty of variation between them, which should appeal to the widest of audiences, and don’t forget that you also have masks for the canopy and the wheel hubs to ease your painting job, which is always nice. From the box you can build one of the following: W. Nr. 746, flown by Oblt. S. Schnell, CO of 9./JG 2, Vannes-Meucon, France, January 1943 Flown by Maj. J. Trautloft, CO of JG 54, Soviet Union, early 1943 W. Nr. 749, flown by Oblt. E. Rudorffer, CO of 6./JG 2, Sidi Ahmed, Tunisia, December 1942 W. Nr. 760, flown by Fw. R. Eisele, 8./JG 2, Brest-Guipavas, France, January 1943 Flown by Oblt. W. Nowotny, CO of 1./JG 54, Staraya Russa, Soviet Union, March 1943 All the decals are printed in Czechia, have good registration, colour density and sharpness, with a thin matt carrier film cut close to the edge of the printing. Under magnification there is a little spidering on the edges of some of the black parts, but under the Mk.1 eyeball this isn't readily visible. The stencils are catered for on a separate sheet, with a page of the instructions devoted to their placement, away from the markings options to avoid clutter. As always with Eduard, the Swastikas are provided on one cut-off corner of the sheet, and in two parts on the body of the sheet to comply with local regulations regarding this contentious symbol. Conclusion The surface detail on the kit is excellent, with lines of finely engraved rivets adding to the visual appeal (yes, we know rivets aren't holes, but this technique works for most of us though!). Add the extra PE detail, and quite a fun set of decal options (I particularly like option E), and you have a winner on your hands. Out of the box you can build a cracking model, but Eduard also have released a host of additional parts for those that either want to cherry-pick from the range, or go bonkers and add just about all of it in an attempt to create a singularity from the heaviest 1:48 model in the world! I'll be reviewing those shortly, but in the meantime feast your eyes on the kit itself. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  18. Eduard is to release a new mould from the 1/48th Focke-Wulf Fw.190A. Source: http://www.detailscaleview.com/2015/11/new-products-from-novemberfest-2015.html 3D renders V.P.
  19. I won't make a big introduction this time, as this deadline will kill me. But I was thinking should I jump in or not? And here I am... I made one back in 2000 or something, as bort "43". Maybe I could dig a picture of it. Still not sure about bort number and weapons, but one thing is for sure: I HATE THIS NEW GREY CAMO !!! Basic Italeri mold + few scratches planned + Eduard PE + Pavla cockpit + AKAN paints I'm missing joysticks from Pavla - never got them Pictures are talking for themselves...
  20. Good morning, well, after a "little" break (house building, lost mojo.....) i´ll get back - here´s my latest model Saab Draken J35 XD in danish service Eduard Kit Eduard RBF tags Coastal display case Tamiya Colors i hope you folks like it, happy i´m back at the modelling bench! Cheers, Oliver
  21. Fokker D.VII sets. Eduard 1:32 Newly released from Eduard are three sets covering Wingnut Wings superb range of Fokker D.VII's. These kits are so good that we may well wonder what possible scope there is for any aftermarket products? Well, I think Eduard have found some very useful items that answer that question. 32914 Fokker D.VII 1:32 Presented on an 8 x 7 cm brass sheet there are 42 distinctly numbered. Many of them occur multiple times, such as 17 part 7's (hinge details), 15 part 11's (turnbuckles) and others only once but using multiple parts, such as the throttle unit. There is no colouring or pre-painting as all the items (save the bezels) will be fitted before the model is primed. A number of bezels for to place over the instruments once the decals have been applied. (The best way to attach these is with Johnsons Kleer or clear varnish). There is a very finely etched throttle quadrant consisting of five parts. This should build up into a very nice little unit that will be better than its injection molded counterpart in the kit. The engine gets wiring from the magnetos to the distribution tube, and leads from the tube to each individual spark plug. The magnetos also get a surrounding strap. There is some detailing for the carburetor unit, a circular plate around the crankshaft, and a pair of 3D etched data plates that go on the crankcase. These should look really good with kit decals applied on top. The fuselage gets some small fittings for the control cable exit points, and some brackets where the lower wing mounts. These details are already molded on the kit fuselage halves, so will need scraping off. The idea is that the etched replacements have much sharper detail. Similarly there are inspection covers and scuff plates for the wings, and again the moulded kit items will require scraping off before the etched items are attached. There are also some extremely fine hinge details to fit on aileron and elevator hinge points. I'd suggest that Johnsons Kleer or white glue will be the best medium for attaching these. They are so small that cyano may well grip and lock them in place before you have had a chance to move them properly into position. There is very little rigging on the Fokker D.VII, but what there is gets some extremely fine little turnbuckles. These are for the fixed wires on the tailplane & undercarriage, and the control wires to the ailerons and elevator. Fortunately there are a few spares provided. The propeller boss gets new plates, front and back. Again, these will require that the existing kit detail is scraped off. The wheels are given new valve covers, in real life a small canvas flap that could be untied to give access to the tyre valve. Fokker, Albatros, and OAW all built the D.VII and each one had a different style of valve cover. These look like the Fokker version, so before you scrape off the valve covers, check that you have the same shape one as the etched part. Finally, the two LMG 08/15 Spandau machine guns get cocking levers, sights, a couple of brackets and etched jackets and front plates. These last two items are already supplied in etched brass in Wingnut Wings own kits, so I was a little surprised to see them here. The Wingnuts MG's can be a little fiddly to assemble, but these ones look like they could be easier to do. You cut the muzzle from the barrel (kit part D13), assemble the etched jacket (part 1) & front plate (part 13), and then re-attach the muzzle to the front plate. 33176 Fokker D.VII seatbelts 1:32 All the Wingnut Wings Fokker D.VII kits come with a set of etched brass seatbelts, but they are unpainted, plain brass. It is up to the modeller to prime and paint them. I don't have a problem doing this, but given the choice, I would go for a set of pre-painted belts as I simply cannot hand paint them to anything like the same standard. Eduards set provides the standard four point harness in a buff colour, with stitching detail and metal parts picked out in black. Simple, and perfectly done.Very often German Aircraft of this period were photographed with the two shoulder straps hanging outside the cockpit, ready for the pilot to climb in and strap up for a quick getaway. If you want to depict your model like this, then these will be far better than anything you can hand paint. JX05 Fokker D.VII Masks 1:32. A simple little set of pre cut masks on kabuki tape. The outer 'hubs' of the Wingnut Wings kit come a separate parts, so that you get a nice easy demarcation when you paint the tyre and hubs separately. The inner faces though, are molded with the tyre and it takes a steady hand to get a neat paint demarcation. These masks will make that job so much easier. Likewise, the small windshield (masks are provided for both types) has a frame around it and requires a very steady hand, and any paint straying onto the glazed are will be very noticeable. This neat little set takes care of both those problems! Conclusion. These are some very useful sets. The main brass etched one which will certainly add some subtle details to the already excellent Wingnut Wings kits. I'm a little puzzled by the inclusion of gun barrels, but the throttle quadrant and engine additions are the 'stand out' items for me. The Wingnut Wings engine kits do not come with wiring but in this scale it is essential, and this set makes it simple to do. Add in all the nice little refinements like the bezels, inspection plates, and turnbuckles, and this becomes a very worthwhile set to enhance your D.VII with. Recommended. Review samples courtesy of
  22. Acthung Zerstörer !

    Hello All ... I dropped my F.3 Lightning Build last night. But I am presenting this build as well. I bought this for my B-day in August. I built it in the downtimes on the Phantom and Lightning builds. Its my First Bf 110 in any scale since 1990. My first 1/72 Twin engine since 1991. With that I present you eduards Bf.110D circa august 1940 B.o.B. The kit markings are for i believe its ZG-76 who flew for the early part of the blitz. Then after decimating losses would pull back and operate in Norway and other locations and roles. Im hoping this is up to snuff. As usual any comments, questions, and jokes. Dennis
  23. Mirage 2000P Fuerza Aera del Peru ( 1/48 ESCI kit version with the corrected production fin) FCM decals Neomega resin cockpit Eduard PE and masks Master pitot l'Arsenal fuselage pylons, wing pylons, SAMP 250 bombs Kinetic 1700L tanks Revell Matra Magic IIs WIP here you go! from the fantastic Mirage group build, still running till Oct 29th.... first a clean one for the purists: and fully loaded thanks for any comments and suggestions! Cheers, Werner
  24. Hello, this is my last finished model. Because of the university it took me a long time to finish it but I had fun in the process. This Eduard kit is excellent but it requires attention in the assembly because you can have problems of fitting later, even more if you use the aftermarket resin parts. Decals are great and the detailed level is high. I have included: Eduard PH parts to the cockpit and exteriors Eduard Masks Eduard Brassin fuselage guns Terrains Dark Earth from Ak interactive and WWS static grass (4mm and 2mm) for the base It was painted with the K4 paint set 2 for Luftwaffe Aircraft , and weathering and scratches were made with Gray and Blue Camouflage AK paneliner, K4 pigments sets and pencils. It represents the Fw 190A-5 Werk No. 2594 flown by Maj Hermann Graf CO of JGr Ost on Bordeaux, France, Spring 1943. .
  25. Good afternoon gents, Spruebros landed a 190A-4 on my front porch on Friday, so of course I started it. Actually, this is the very first time I've ever done that. Normally a new kit gets explored, but then put into the stash to await a later build date. Some of those "new kits" are actually still in the stash. Not the 190A-4! I started snipping parts from the sprues and built up everything I could that didn't need paint. The new tool 190 kit is a lot of fun. Things fit well and are engineered well. It feels a lot simpler than the Spitfire or 109, but still has plenty to enjoy. What engine!? Ahh... the fit of the wings/fuselage/gun bays!! So nice. Here is what I'm going for: Cockpit without weathering: The PE is not the blue-ish color from other eduard RLM 66 PE sheets, but it's more gray, but still doesn't match my go to RLM 66, Tamiya German Gray. So I painted over the PE to get the colors back. The kit also has nice molded IP and cockpit sills/consoles. I'm going to use those next time instead of PE. I cut a hole in the frame under the cowling so I can add the exhaust stacks in later. Cut away: And once the pit was done, then I just started glueing pieces together! Thanks for looking!