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modelmaker

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  1. I love setting fire to things as much as anyone, but should you wish to use wire another useful source is to take a piece of Bowden cable (a small length of bicycle gear change cable for example) and carefully strip all the outer pieces off until you are left with the central core which is a straight thin length of high tensile steel, which is also very useful for a myriad of other uses in model making (perfect for making broken undercarriage leg splints for example).
  2. even if it wasn't any good it would have been worth it just to read your wonderfully worded presentation, I salute you sir! what are Euros by the way????
  3. Take a paracetamol plastic pack (after you've broken them out and presumably used them) and use the little plastic bubbles therein to put a small drop of super glue in. Mix in a small quantity of talcum powder to make a paste, never use shrinking filter again. Ready to use, to work with, sands nicely and is nigh on perfect. After many years you will find it is still attached to the model, and still hadn't shrunk. Please give it a try, you'll never go back to the green stuff. Not quite the answer to your question but hope it helps in the future PS talc works differently to bicarbonate of soda; bicarb sets as soon as it is in contact with super glue so you can add it to a drop of glue or seam and in effect replace missing pieces of plastic
  4. I was building a very old Revell Ju-88, complete with off set gondola, and in truth I always struggle to get dihedral correct, or just even, on these old kits. my idea was to go to Wilkinson, buy a tub of their very close Lego replica bricks, (all my kids old Lego went decades ago) thick and thin ones, and a base. you can, with bits of plastic for shims, lock the fuselage so the tail is vertical then adjust dihedral using blocks and shims etc below wings or wingtips as needed. you can also, on these old knacker kits (which I still enjoy making) use the idea in reverse to make sure undercarriage legs are vertical (or whatever required angle) and that wingtips are still level. when I can find the pictures I'll upload some, but you will hopefully get the idea, I think it works quite well
  5. dear 'Biggles', ny joy is almost unrestrained, by the miracle of the internet and the 'Web I now have a perfectly scanned PDF of Profile 219, and what an education it is, many many pictures that I've not seen before including, as you said, a colour 3-view of Meurer's aircraft. many many thanks, very thoughtful of you to suggest, regards JD
  6. you are correct, my Kindle auto corrected 'Meurer' without my noticing (always proof read JD). the marking and painting guide shows a series of jagged '75 blotches and I'd assumed these were just random kit instructions rather than an accurate representation, I will perhaps scan them when I get a moment; they certainly don't seem to conform to the accepted 'squiggle' pattern that are seen on the pic that Vonbraun has kindly supplied. they are just the usual B&W pictures on the instruction sheet. rather frustratingly I've got a lot of the Profile booklets, inherited from a friend who died a few years back, but they only go up to 212!!!! thanks to everyone so far, I see a couple of potential Profile options on Ebay, so I'll see what occurs, worth a couple of pounds (or Euros) will send some pictures when she's painted,
  7. I'm presently building the 1/72nd Dragon Uhu, a 219 A0, early1944, Venlo, Manfred Neuter. I wonder if anyone has any reliable info on a suitable camouflage scheme for such an aircraft? I have of course trawled the inter web for pictures of the real thing but there are times when you need the advice of the knowledgeable, and this is it. any ideas or pictures would be grateful appreciated, many thanks
  8. Just a thought but there is a Pentel correction fluid in a red bottle which you shake before use and which has a spot applicator which is very useful as a scratch filler
  9. Don't worry about it being too hard to work with, just a small amount of talc will make it like any other filler, except that when you're finished you can, amongst other things scribe it as well. Try it on a spare scrap kit and see. I've used little else for years, with the Mr Surfacer for its finishing off jobs.
  10. Put a small puddle of super glue on a flat surface, mix a small amount of calcium powder (make a fairly thin mixture) apply with a scalpel or similar applicator and either leave to dry out use accelerator. Re apply if you have a big gap to fill. In a matter of minutes (or even seconds) you can sand it down as required. It is easier to sand for the first couple of hours but will always sand just like plastic however long you'd left it. Perfect. You can build up parts by applying superglue to the plastic then applying bicarbonate of soda to the glue then sanding down Hope this helps.
  11. found one!
  12. get a piece of masking tape a little bit wider than the spinner is tall, if you get my meaning. start to wrap it slowly round the spinner and you soon notice it starts to 'climb' up towards the 'top' (pointy end) of the spinner. as it does so start (and continue) to trim it off at the top, pretending all the while that you think you can properly mask it (it looks a bit rough but don't worry). keep going round, all the while TRYING (but never really succeeding) in masking it nicely, just do it as best you can until it is wrapped all over and round. trim the tape off at the base and stand the spinner on a flat surface. take a fine liner pen, laid on the table pointing at the taped spinner at the height you wish one of the bands to be, then mark all round the taped spinner. just try one line to start with, then peel the tape off and lay it flat on a cutting mat. you will see, as if by magic, a reasonable representation of part of the circular curve that just got marked on the tape when on the spinner. work out approximatly what the radius is, then use a sharp compass cutter on a new, good piece of tape. this can now be re-applied to the spinner as a mask and will give a nearly perfect level line. using 2 slightly different radii you can make thin strips that can, with practice, be made to conform beautifully round spinners, although it takes a little practice. once you've tried it you'll soonsee how it works, and you can, by taping up roughly as before,draw a spiral spinner, then cut it out on a mat, then re-apply the spiral.. works nicely, I'll attach some pictures when I get a minute, hope this helps, it was someone elses idea, (naturally) who explained it far better than I but I hope it's of use JD
  13. When I was a kid in the 60s I had a Thunderbirds annual, which I wish I'd still got. There was an interesting item which explained how when the producers (presumably) got a new model from the model makers they would rub it in dirt, clean, repeat a few times until it looked realistic. Nowadays one of the many things I struggle with is making a model look realistic dirty! It wasn't so much applying powders but more just making them dirty I think. It's Worth watching Thunderbirds anyway, but they DO look good. I'd been thinking of trying this, thanks for the motivation
  14. I dropped one of the tail planes from a 1/72nd P40 once, it feel at my feet as I sat on my stool. I never ever saw it again.
  15. back in the 60s I also chucking'em together in a day and NEVER painted them although I always applied the transfers (when did we start calling them'decals'?).when I started work, (in the brief period between my first pay packet and then discovering girls and motorcycles) I bought a few times of Airfix paint but can still remember the disappointment of it not covering very well, it seemed very thin and water. Who knew you had to stir it?.....