rob Lyttle

This is the profile I've got with various bits added under the chassis. That's probably a bit too much engine block judging by the position of the exhaust exit, but I think I'll leave well enough alone. I had a creative moment just now and fabricated a bonnet strap "anchor" .. With a little hole in the side to take the wire pin, it fits like this and reaches up between the exhaust pipes Then the protruding wire will get snipped off. I'd better think about a strap replacement to fix onto it. This is the 1st effort at making a rear leafspring... There are little pieces of Ali tube incorporated in the ends with the plastic wrapped around, and a best guess at the height of the axle hole above the spring. The ends will have wires to fit onto, wires fixed into the chassis members. Measurements and position are a bit critical with all this and I'm working on a wing and a prayer 😎 But I'll give it a try.

Taking another look at the instructions (a pdf file...) I realised that I need a cutout along the floor pan to give me a tunnel for the drive shaft to the differential. I started with a row of pilot holes... ...and then cut away at the plastic, shaving it back to expose the tunnel. Quite thin stock plastic is used for the floor so pretty easy going Then I started making up some kind of gearbox and the bottom of the engine block. The gearbox has an end plate now which goes up into the tunnel and has a piece of stretched sprue protruding-- this will accept the end of a length of Ali tube as the shaft. It's all a bit sketchy and not particularly true to what's under the car, but it's better to have something built rather than flat plastic. A supercharger is added up front under the fairing and a strip to one side reaching under that tube opening, so I'll be able to add some sort of SU carburettor item onto that. It certainly brings you up close and personal to the layout and structure of the subject matter when you have to build it yourself!🙉

After some considerable cutting and filing and trial and error, I have one of these... I think I've got the arched front piece about right and it fits to the shape of the bodywork . There's no engine sump or anything underneath, but the front is sheeted with thin, flexible styrene and the supercharger is fitted with only a touch of filler. There's a shielded opening beside the supercharger which houses an SU carburettor and I made a long hole which recieved a piece of squeezed plastic tube. One step at a time with this 😇 I've tried the fit of the radiator piece-- it has to attach to the front of the bonnet and just butt up against the back of the supercharger box. Seems OK 👍 Some blue paint was tried to see how it looks with the rest of the bodywork, but of course it's all thoroughly wrecked again. Never mind, clearly the paintwork is a minor issue to be sorted later. So there's something, some kind of framework to attach other things to, by way of a start. 😎

Let's call this Plan B😎 I'm cutting and glueing various bits of stock styrene in various thickness and I've taken a speculative best guess at the curved chassis members up front. It's rudimentary at the moment but I think I'm on the right track. Also trying my hand at making some leaf springs. I'll take some pictures when I've got something worthwhile...

Looking forward to seeing this go together and a decor solution. The original "anodised aluminum" finish is a tricky conundrum to figure out with paint, I'll be interested to see what you come up with, what ever way you choose to go with this 👍

After some prevarication I think I'd like to put this into the group build.... I got this as part of an auction bundle of car kits and would very much like to get it done. But there's a problem. I made a rudimentary start back in December, assembly of the main bodywork parts, then quickly realised that several key components were missing. I have no instructions but I found the required document on Scalemates.com, no problem. But study of the drawings showed that I have no chassis parts, rear axle or suspension, or front axle arrangements. It was like someone had built up the chassis assembly and then put it on a shelf while the rest of the kit stayed in its box. And I got the box! I think I have the wherewithal to try a scratch built solution and the added impetus of being in a group build might just be the motivation to see it through (or fail gallantly 🤩) Here's what I've got... And this is the basic shell with the petrol tank attached to the rear... That's well under the 25% threshold, I'd say, although if the hosts say otherwise I shall reconsider my choice, of course 😉 It'd be great to get my little MG sorted out

I'm calling this Ventura, done ✔️ Antennas and pitot scratch built in soldered brass wire, straight aerial in styrene. It's been an excellent adventure in plastic bashing, and trying at times. But like someone said earlier in the build, it's hardly recognisable compared to what I started with. Turret gone, ventral position faired over, cabin windows and seating installed on a floor, cockpit roof, and a makeover on the flaps. 👍 The main gripe would be the cowlings- the rings are too small and eccentric moulding makes it worse. Maybe down to Donetsk Toy Factory production or intrinsic to the kit but let's face it, if you had a genuine Frog kit you wouldn't be building it! I'll get something in the gallery by way of conclusion. Thanks for your company along the merry way with this ❤️

Sorry guys, the TR3 doesn't fit the date parameters for this group at all. Always strikes me as a golden age car because I like it, but much too late. I did pick up a Matchbox Mercedes SSKL at the Poole show yesterday though.....🤩

It's the Entex kit in 1.24 .This.... I think others have used the mould before, or after, I can't remember the Scalemates information. Very toy-like in some respects but looks like a good overall shape

Now then, esteemed Transport people 😃 I've been trying to clear up some Frog builds on that Group and considering my options for an entry on here One of the Frog jobs is Lockheed Ventura re-purposed as a Bolivian civil airliner....you can't get much more Transporty than that, can you.?? But you can't share one build between two groups so there you go. I can stick a photo or two in the inspiration gallery 😃 But I'm thinking and pondering what next? I'd thought about a Triumph TR3 car which needs doing, but just recently I've been looking in a Matchbox box containing a Norduin Norseman float plane. An absolute workhorse,totally at home in the Canadian outback, the lakes, the Mountains the far-flung wilderness of the Canadian interior. 1936 is given as the year of first production 👍 I'm feeling almost ready to try my luck with another Floatplane project. Should I just start in with a WIP if and when I get going??

Alright 👍 Looking great and will look fantastic with the yellow wing on top

Looking great so far 👍 There's a couple of real tricky little u/c door pieces that include the sides of an oil tank or something-- they kind of twist and click into place up between the legs. Have you done them yet?? The original maker's instructions (is it Minicraft??)*** give some written advice and on how to fit them, but Academy just show the (same)drawings and omit all the verbal guidance in the interest of "multinational fairness" Maybe you've breezed it already without even noticing the trickiness of the operation. If you've still to do it...... stay cool 😎 Edit, *** Accurate Miniatures .💡

"...I get knocked down But I get up again...!" ⬆️🌈😇 🎼🎵🎵🎶 I've just been catching up on this epic journal, Chris. I'm mentally regrouping too after some Frog kit bashing in the Frog Group Build. It can all get a bit trying.. .🤪 And it can be too much time spent with a project. The plane looks enviably great 👍. You could take a break from it I suppose but I think you're back on the case now. Pin wash .....? Does grubby finger marks count as a pin wash??😅 If so, I'm sorted thanks

Ha, thanks Chris. It's something I like to have a go at if an appropriate opportunity presents itself. Always a bit high-risk messing around on the transparencies, but satisfying when it works out. Here's the Dhc Twin Otter I did... I started doing them when I realised I couldn't paint the mock wipers they sometimes raise on the clear plastic in a satisfactory way. I've even used stretched black sprue in the past for the blades so that paint of any kind was no longer required

So I FINALLY got round to editing and printing some decals for this, along with various other projects-in-waiting. I'm afraid it's one of those things that gets postponed "for another day" while the plastic gets bashed into shape. There's been some tidying on the paintwork and a few sundries fixed. I managed to tailfin stripes with white letters and it went according to plan with the white base paint showing through the clear decals. My tailfin "B206" lettering turned out to be too big when applied, so I'll revise those down a bit and try again Windscreen wipers are done and not too messy- they improve the look of the cockpit... ...and the flaps tidied up OK. Don't know about the accuracy of what I've made, all you can do is have a look at some pictures and take your best shot with plastic! Now I've got a pair of them😎 There are a couple of things I could revisit on airframe #1 but maybe better off leaving as it is and move on So I'm finally just about there with the Beagles. Maybe some wheel chocks and lift the gloss finish a little. Then I'll try some gallery shots It's a cute little plane and a welcome reissued oldie from Airfix. A lot of fun for next to nothing! Thanks for your company (and patience...) along the way 😇

Well, thanks for the cheer, Jeff 😃 Probably have been messing with it for too long. It's been an adventure in plastic bashing alright and I don't suppose any other Frog Venturas end up in this style. Antennas are breaking up on the sprues so let's see what can be done in the finishing 👍

I got to admit this one is taxing me. I'm progressing it- through hell and high water - but everything I do just seems to increase the overall ropiness of the thing. Paintwork is looking tired with unintentionally weathered areas. I got the precious door worked up ready to install, and then lost it again, this time for good. I scratched a new one and got it on. The fit of the front cowling rings onto the main cowlings has exasperated me. They are too small and poor moulding accuracy has given them an off-centre tendency and the top intakes are a shambles. It's got to the point where I want it off the bench 🫣 But I'm decorating in an effort to "find some closure" as they say. 😇 I got the flaps sorted out and even got 5 saw cuts in the tops for the channels and fixed them on. Here's the action.... So all in all it's not the kind of model you'd put on the club display table. You know that saying about a man on a galloping horse wouldn't notice..... ? Well, maybe I'll take it to one of those equestrian 3day eventing meetings. One final push for the gallery then

Hmmmm...the pictures look to me to have a bit of a pink tint overall, and probably due to the green background messing with the colour balance. I may have another go and if they're any better I can always go back, delete and replace the pics. Might be the red stripes but I haven't noticed any rosy tints during the WIP. Lemme try out without the green base...😇

First of mine over the line and into the gallery. It's the Frog/Hasegawa MD RF-101C Voodoo recce jet. I've always loved the 101 series and built a few, but this kit ended up loitering....until NOW! Then I found out about Operation Sun Run, the USAF go at claiming some Speed Records. Namely LA to New York, and also the return bothways Record ,landing where the take-off was. 6 RF-101C took part along with a fleet of their new KC135 Boeing tankers and this was a serious workout for in-flight refuelling and planning. Apparently the tanker rendezvous took place at Mach0.9. Each Voodoo had a distinct colour scheme to aid identification. I've done airframe #3, which was actually one of the back-up planes. She filled up and turned for home after the first 2 successfully did the first refuelling rendezvous. The decoration is a mix of spares and self-print. It appears to me that Frog or probably Hasegawa have marked the wing tops to represent extending slats. To be honest I didn't clock it until it was too late-- they're etched out rather than raised. Nevertheless, a very enjoyable build, and I'm thinking I'd like to do another, #4 with Yellow marking looks good to me 😎 Here she is...

Well I finally got round to editing, printing and sealing a bunch of decals, including those required for the Voodoo. And things are shaping up quite well. With the decor done there are a couple of camera ports to glaze and that's basically it. Except for one thing. Looking through references it looks like I have the wrong airframe number! For the no3 aircraft I should have 60165 🙉 60166 was the no4 plane with fetching yellow stripes 💛 I've applied what I have and I think I can get used to it. But if and when I have another print session I do a corrected set of numbers and revisit the situation. I'll keep a look out for another Frog/Hase 101C kit because that no4 airframe looks GOOD!!Quite fancy doing another 😉 I'll get the windows on and take this one to the galleries

OK, finally have some decals designed and printed for this'un and a few others including the Frog Voodoo Sun Run build. Tricky enough doing the USAF Amarillo style letters and numbers for the Voodoo but I found an online solution 😀 So fingers crossed I can pull this off. Soon would be good 👍

Chris @stringbag,have a go at self-print. Scan at a high resolution and try to adjust the yellow or cream tone back. An ordinary printer will give you a test sheet or indeed an inkjet print on decal paper. And saved as a document or pdf file, a high street print shop can laser print for you. Almost certain that you would have to supply the LASER GRADE decal paper-they'll want to see that it is laser grade. They won't want fires breaking out in their excellent printer! You can copy and paste the image as many as you need before going to the printing process

I ought to add, I've had occasion to do a makeover on a couple of metal clad planes where I'd used something like decalfix under the decals. It was a heck of a job removing those ready for the new decoration. So I found that reassuring in it's own way, although trying at the time 😃

Yea, there is something about aluminium, would be interesting to hear a metalurgist's take on it 🤔 It has tested the paint makers in the real world over the decades Have you tried the "boiling with eggshells" routine with any foils?? I was a bit sceptical at first try, but it works for a dark metal result. Can't be done with sticky back foil though for obvious reasons. I've used kitchen foil upside-down on occasions for the duller effect, on wing centre panels etc on an F86 for example. Just laid over the top of my main foil covering with PVA white glue, worked fine.

And yet, modellers of all types are always on about applying decals onto a gloss paint base. Even for a matt finish final look, they'll gloss for the decals and then matt clear over that. I've had the occasional refusal on Ali foil but I came to the conclusion that issues were mostly down to variations in decal quality (or type?). I've used decal-fix in the past when in doubt but there's sticky residue which can leave marks. We love a challenge 🤪