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Everything posted by Badder

  1. I will be facing the same dilemma in the future as I too have a Tiger I and Tiger II in the stash. I have the Tamiya zimmerit 'decal' set for the Tiger I, but I haven't yet seen anyone else use it. (I expect they have, but I haven't actually searched the forum for it) So, seeing your putty method gives me some idea of the results I can expect if I try likewise. I'm not knowledgeable on the scale accuracy of zimmerit, but I'd say your 'spacing' looks about right to me. (When I get to that stage, I will count the columns across the front armour on a real Tiger to check the accuracy on that count) I'd say that your zimmerit looks more realistic that the PE stuff, with a nice bit of variation and 'bad' application here and there. The only area I'd personally not be happy with is at the rear of the hull where it gets a bit messy for my liking. I will question the lack of zimmerit on the glacis though. I seem to remember some argument over whether it was zimmerited or not, and that the final consensus was that it was. But my memory isn't what it once was. Overall though, I'd say you've done a good job, and I will have to try the putty method out myself. Rearguards, Badder
  2. First things first, I decided not to fix the hedgerow to the 'firewood', but to a length of machined wood instead. This machined baton will fit along the top rear edge of the firewood baton, forming a flat surface for the hedgerow to 'grow' along. But before fixing the clump to the baton, I decided to add some more plants around its base. I came up with the idea of making something akin to cow parsley, and for the two clumps of cow parsley I again used fishing line, only lightly singed at the ends, which I dunked in medium CA and then Woodland Scenics Soft Flake Snow. The results are okay, I think. These clumps of 'cow parsley' were then glued around the clump using medium CA sprinkled with Dil Tops. Another 'fishing line' plant was added to the rear. The clump was then fixed to the baton using PVA. Next I fixed a section of metal gauze along the rest of the baton. I screwed it down to hold it securely, then applied plaster of paris over the top. The gauze serves two purposes: to improve the bond strength between plaster and wood, and to act as the earth for further applications of static grass (I attach the crocodile clip to an exposed corner of the gauze) For the grass I will use Woodland Scenics Static Grass (light green) and Peco Scene Static Grass (straw) I made myself a static grass applicator last year, from an electrified bug-zapper - the tennis racket style one. For something costing less than 8 quid, including batteries, and taking only an hour or so to make, it was well worth it. The majority of the grass will be applied using this applicator, either for mass coverage, or in patches. As the first clump was already glued directly onto the baton it required that I made patches of grass to fit around it. Here I used a mix of both brands of grass, roughly 9/1 in favour of the Pico Scene grass Fascinating, the colour differences between the grass in the photo above and below... which are of the same grass and taken within seconds of each other. The patches were placed upon medium CA in the first instance so that I could position and then hold down the patches with a wooden stylus. Once set, I trickled thin CA around the edges allowing capillary action to secure the patches absolutely. Some more tufts of longer grass, and some scatter will finish off this particular clump for now. TFL Badder
  3. ATTENTION! ANYONE WHO HAS FOLLOWED ONE OF MY DIORAMA WIPs WILL KNOW THAT THEY TEND TO EVOLVE OVER TIME! THEREFORE IT WILL COME AS NO SURPRISE THAT THE ENTIRE THEME OF THIS DIORAMA HAS CHANGED, AS OF TODAY, 24/01/17. WHISLT THE CONSTRUCTION OF THE MINIART BUILDING (WITH MOULDS AND CASTINGS) CONTINUES AS PREDICTED THE SETTING FOR THE DIO IS NO LONGER A WINTER ONE, AND THE FEATURED VEHICHLE IS NO LONGER A STuG III. SO, THE 'WINTER TREE' FEATURED IN THIS THREAD WILL NO LONGER APPEAR IN THIS DIO. APART FROM THAT AND THE PROLOGUE/THEME PARAGRAPHS, THE THREAD CAN BE READ AS IS, AND ALL OTHER CONTENT IS STILL RELEVENT. FOR THOSE WHO ARE UPSET ENOUGH TO WANT TO KNOW WHY, THE REASONS ARE LISTED ON PAGE 9, MY SINCERE APOLOGIES BADDER ATTENTION AGAIN! 28/01/17 I DECIDED TO DOUBLE THE SIZE OF THE BASE, SO NOW THERE'S ROOM FOR ANOTHER BUILDING. For the fourth time of trying... grrrr.... at interrupternet. Where's the Autosave function gone? PROLOGUE Having just completed my StuG III I now find myself with three finished AFV's sitting on the shelf with no bases. Now, when I joined BM I was determined not to move onto a new project until I had completed the current one, and that was to include a diorama for each. I am now three dioramas behind, or four if I count my dismantled Viller Bocage diorama which is waiting for a re-build. So, how better to remedy the situation that to build a diorama for the AFV most fresh in my mind? THEME: It was about 1975 when I first started building models, inspired as I was by my elder cousin's Tamiya SAS Jeep, Tamiya Sd.Kfz 222 armoured car and Tamiya Pink Panther Landrover (you can see a theme developing here). And I positively drooled over the Tamiya Catalogues, or more precisely the Francois Verlinden dioramas featured therein. So, upon my return to model-making 35yrs later I had in my head those wonderful Verlinden dioramas. I could recall them all, in fairly good detail and one related to a StuG IV. It was photographed laid up in an ambush position, observing the lowland fields from within the ruins of a farm building. I want to pay homage to that diorama, although mine will be set in winter, in the Ardennes during the Battle of the Bulge. Oh, and of course, mine is a Dragon StuG III, but that's another story. Anyway, a quick look at the title will tell you that there's going to be a bit more to this diorama than was evident in Francois Verlinden's and anyone who saw my entry to the Vignette GB will guess that this one is also going to feature a pig, only one that is somewhat larger and more ferocious. The 'ambushers' will in fact become the 'ambushed' or 'hambushed' hopefully, with humourous consequences. Aaaah the luxury of having time to plan a diorama rather than rush a vignette and make compromises! So, that's the theme and title sorted. MATERIALS: I will add to this list as each material comes to be used. I believe I have all the materials I require, but I may run out of some along the way. For now though, I will be starting on the base and basic structures with: MDF board roughly 80cm x 60cm Pine battons. Balsa wood. 2mm. Privet Hedge 'Branch' MiniArt 'Ruined Village House'. MinArt 'Ardennes Building' Plasticard sheets of varying thickness. Corrugated cardboard. Bryant and May extra long safety matches. Balsa 'stick' from a spent firework rocket. Diamond patterned rubber mat. Coffee stirring sticks. 'Brass' picture hanging wire. Maxima Nylon Monofilament Fishing line in spools of 100m.... 12lb, 10lb, 6lb breaking strains. PVA glue CA glue, thin, medium and thick. Liquid Poly. Squadron Products Green Putty. Plaster of Paris. Polyfilla. Liquid Latex. Sellotape. Semi-transparent 'white' Plastic Milk Container. Thin card. Graph paper. Grass mat. Humbrol Enamels. Humbrol Weathering Powders. Humbrol Washes. Tamiya Acrylics. Japanese 'Grit Paints' MIG Pigments. Daler and Rowney Acrylic Artists Inks. Winsor and Newton's Galeria gloss, satin and matt varnishes. SCATTERS/EFFECTS: Plaster of Paris dust (that is Plaster of Paris which has set solid and then been scraped away to form dust) As such, it acts much more like weathering powder than it does 'talcum powder'. Bart's Dill Tops. Bart's Chervil. Bart's Basil. Non-standard tools: 'Snowflake' paper punch from Hobbycraft for manufacturing 'ivy leaves'. That's it for now. If anyone follows this thread, I hope you find at least a few nuggets of helpful information. I will also welcome any advice/tips/criticisms. Thanks, Badder
  4. Ba-3 armored car

    Welcome to 'our' forum. A fantastic first entry. Excellent in every respect. A strange looking AFV indeed. That turret looks more suited to a tank of a much later date. Rearguards, Badder
  5. Quite superb. Lovely weathering, and nice colour/tonal variations. Those tracks look very good to me, but must be extremely fragile! Are they made up of individual links? Rearguards, Badder
  6. I sprayed dilute PVA over the undergrowth and sprinkled on more Dil Tops. The whole sub-assembly will get many coats of matt acrylic varnish. The whole hedgerow will be constructed from sub-assemblies representing various mixes of plants. I won't bother showing any more unless they are significantly different in construction. TFL Badder
  7. I forgot that I now have a stash of Seafoam. So, I will be using small pieces for the hedgerow. Here's some fitted behind the clump. As you can see from the first photo showing the rear side, I simply CA'd it into a groove in the base of the clump and sprinkled Dil Tops over the still-wet CA. I find that herbs act as a medium for the CA, helping it to cure quickly while increasing the area of bonding. The front. TFL Badder
  8. For size comparison, shown with an old abandoned figure. The clump is standing in the plastic base used for containing profiteroles, which I used to 'foliate' the undergrowth. CA was dribbled into one section and Dil Tops into the adjacent one. As one section became unusable due to cross contamination, I moved onto another. These profiterole bases are ideal for this. My diabetes might disagree though! TFL Badder
  9. In breaks between building an armature for a tree, I knocked together a clump of undergrowth. Earlier, I showed some undergrowth which I reclaimed from my now non-existent vignette 'The enemy at the gate'. I bunched this together and added another bunch made exactly the same way, using my fishing line method. I then dunked and mashed the new, larger, clump in medium CA and then in Dil Tops. Once dry (it all dries very quickly) I 'dry-brushed' the foliage with a medium green. Basil and Dil tops will cover most of the ground beneath the undergrowth. Below, two reclaimed clumps from the vignette, plus a new bunch of fishing line, CA'd at their base and clumped together. CA was dribbled over the join at the base and Basil was sprinkled over. The Basil not only provides ground cover but also acts with the CA to bond the three clumps together. And here's the new, larger, clump. Some more scatter will be applied and some more dry-brushing will follow. TFL Badder
  10. So, work starts on a length of hedgerow. The hedgerow will consist of two small trees, some bushes, lots of undergrowth and an area of earth 'undercut' with exposed tree roots. As stated above, I will be making the hedgerow in its entirety, only fixing it to the base when the ground is ready. I will be constructing the hedgerow on a baton of wood, as I did for the hedgerow in my diorama 'Lost in France'. For that diorama, I used 90 percent natural materials: twigs, silver birch seeds and seed dividers, herbs, and various dried plant parts. The other 10 percent was astroturf, to represent rushes. This time I will be using mostly manmade materials as they are longer lasting and can be made with an eye to realism in scale. I will however, be using the astroturf again. I will be going that one stage further though, shaping each and every leaf 'blade' carefully to get a more realistic effect. Not very exciting, but here's the baton of wood. This wood was retrieved from our woodshed and just so happens to be of the required shape and length. In the past I'd have been happy to use this wood 'as is' but as this is going to be my 'Grande Diorama' I've given it a blast in the microwave to kill off any woodworm/fungus. The wife didn't know what I'd put in there, but became concerned when the thing started making loud popping noises. 'It's nothing dear, just the resin in the wood!' Ahem. It was EXTREMELY dry wood. I suspect there may have been some woodworm or beetle pupae in there after all!!! Anyway... Holes will be drilled along the baton and these will accept the 'trunks' of trees and bushes. But first... the trees and bushes. I'm going to use my 'fishing line' method for both trees and bushes, adapting the construction to suit. I won't be using real twigs/branches this time as the smaller trees will require the kind of dainty yet strong armatures that natural twigs cannot provide. Instead, I will be constructing the tree armatures from wire, putty, the garden twine and possibly latex. TFL Badder
  11. I've read all of the Discworld histories and the tour guides, and I've studied the discological maps and have read their beliefs about the Multiverse, yes. Nowhere do they say that 'round' planets do not exist, whether they are supported on the backs of pachyderms and cetaceans or not. Rearguards, Badder Yea, as the turtle moves, an arrow can never strike it.
  12. I have to correct you. Almost no one, ever, has believed the Earth to be flat. The ancient Greeks, Egyptians and Romans certainly knew it was 'round'. The earliest inhabitants of the Pacific islands, far more ancient, were even more aware. Any sea-faring peoples couldn't help but notice that when a boat/ship/canoe 'sailed' out to sea it would disappear over the horizon gradually, not fall off some edge, and returning crews would report finding no edge to fall off, just further horizons, curving away 'forever'. I would say that there have NEVER been any SERIOUS believers in a flat Earth, but I'm afraid that isn't true. I've seen some videos of current 'believers' in the USA who insist that the Earth IS flat and all these photos of films of a round Earth viewed from space are either hoaxes, or 'illusions' created by 'curves in the space time continuum'. Sounds to me like they like listening to the album 'The Magic Teapot' by Gong. And on the subject of music.... I had to give up drumming due to progressive chronic nerve damage to my hands/feet/limbs which affected my muscle control/memory and timing, not to mention the pain, and numbness.... etc etc. Still, I had a good few years and even got to support Budgie twice, and play the 2nd gig on the drummer's kit, so I count myself lucky! I can understand why you might be tempted to buy a bass, because they are sexy, (so long as they are played on a long strap) and so easy to play! And I'm surprised your blunt old fingertips are any good for making models!!! Rearguards, Badder
  13. I'm still holding off starting on the ground, wanting to get some more scenery 'set pieces' done first. One thing I want to show is a length of hedgerow. I am not sure where it will go yet, but it will edge a farm track, with a bit of earth banking, exposed tree roots and dense and varied undergrowth. It may surprise some of you to read that I am going to make the hedgerow first and fit it later when the ground has been modelled. And I've decided to make another tree or two. They won't be as big as the last one, and will be much more open with regards to their foliage. I'm imagining something like ash trees, or silver birch. Again I may not try to replicate actual species, just portray 'characters'. We shall see. With the hedgerow, large tree, building and section of dry-stone wall completed, I can finally down the layout. Work on the hedgerow will commence tomorrow. Rearguards Badder
  14. Tiger I tracks. One side reversed??

    I've made just the one Tiger I so far. It was my first model in 35yrs, Tamiya's 1/35th Mid Production. Feeling like a 'newbie' I followed the instructions to the letter and so fitted the tracks as per their instructions, with both sets of tracks facing the same way. This means that when viewed from the front (or rear) the 'pattern' of the tracks appears the same on each side. However, I've just read this article http://www.alanhamby.com/suspension.shtml and have discovered that only the first 20 Tigers were fitted with 'left and right hand track links' and that subsequent Tigers used the same track links on each side, but then one of the tracks was reversed. To me, this sounds like it's actually incorrect to have both sets of tracks looking the same from the front (or rear) To clarify, when looking at the tracks they shouldn't look like this: W W but like this: W M Can someone confirm? Thanks, Badder
  15. Tiger I tracks. One side reversed??

    Yeah @ initial and handed. I was keeping it simple for any visiting 'aviation' people. Rearguards, Badder
  16. Tiger I tracks. One side reversed??

    Hi Jack, I've re-read the article and have sussed it out now. In the photo you show, the tracks are of the earlier type.... without the bolted-on 'ice cleats'. Nevertheless, if you removed the tracks from the left hand side, and turned them around 180 degrees, they would then fit on the right hand side without fouling the hull, and would have the overhang on the outside edge. However the pattern on the individual links will be facing the other way as well. In other words, those repeated 'A' shapes between the horizontal bars would be upside down on one set of tracks. So there would be a difference in the look of the tracks. When the 'ice cleats' were introduced they were bolted on to the existing 'bars' and were orientated to match between both set of tracks, so they would look the same on casual inspection. The inner 'A' shapes would still be inverted on one set though. The 'ice cleats' are the shiny zig-zag pattern on the horizontal bars in the photo below. Directly below each of them, in the recess are 'A' shapes. On the right hand set of tracks the ice cleats are pointing upwards as well, but the 'A' shapes in the recesses are not pointing upwards, they are upside down. So yes, although the tracks appear to be the same on both sides, they are not. One set is reversed, but the ice-cleats are fixed the same way on both sides. Please forgive the extremely dusty Tiger! Two years ago this was my first model for 35yrs and is pretty bad compared to what I can do nowadays. So it's been sitting in a dusty cupboard. Badder
  17. Panzer II

    Ah, okay, got you. Thanks, Badder
  18. Panzer II

    Not quite So the flag is made from putty which you covered with tissue and painted red? Then you drew and painted the white circle and swastika, made a print of that and stuck it on? Then you folded the flag up? Badder
  19. Porsche type 205/2 "Maus"

    Great to see this beast. Thanks. Of course, the Maus might have been a formidable opponent if it hadn't been for the extremely slow speed of the SdKfz 9921 ausf Z (240 Tonne Reinforced-Road-Laying Vehicle) that was designed to trundle along in front of it. And I wonder why they didn't camo paint the Maus to look like a farm building, or a small copse? Rearguards, Badder
  20. Panzer II

    Another stunner. Again, great weathering. I like your panzer grey as well. How did you make the flag? Rearguards, Badder
  21. Tiger 1 initial prod.

    Stunning weathering. Yes, it's extremely over-weathered considering its age, but I don't care. As for the guy with the whitewash, I have been planning on a diorama with the exact same thing going on. I just haven't decided whether to whitewash a Tiger I, a Tiger II or a Sherman. I'm thinking all 3 now!! As for the clean spare wheel on the back, Tigers didn't carry spare wheels like some tanks, so the 'spare' was obviously 'salvaged' from another... which was a lot cleaner! Problem solved! Are you considering placing the Tiger in a diorama? Rearguards, Badder
  22. A gurt big lovely monster. Fantastic. I hope you have a table large enough to display it? I read about the chain not taking paint very well, but then see that you've managed to paint it. I'm not sure what the problem was, but if you come across the same problem again give the chain a coat of matt acrylic varnish first. Rearguards, Badder
  23. Hi Chris, Apart from the aforementioned mistakes, I think your Panzer looks fine, and is better than 'bog standard'. I don't know why you think the desert scheme is any more difficult. It's the same as any other single-colour camo scheme, just in dark yellow. But I wouldn't worry too much about getting the perfect colour match, and personally I think a bit of artistic licence is to be encouraged. Photograph that with a red sunrise/sunset in the background and that'll look spot on. I like the rusty exhaust cover. Your stowage is great, and actually tied down, which is always good to see! I've used wax to smooth my tow cables, and it does work, but now I use dilute PVA instead. It's less messing about and you can paint it afterwards if required. Rearguards, Badder
  24. StuG IV the firs armour

    Hi Snitok Your English is a million times better than my Russian! Welcome to the world of armour. A StuG is a good start and yours would look good on your boss's shelf. If you decide to stay a while on the dark and dirty side, you will find plenty of WIPs showing how to age an AFV, from subtle, very light weathering, to filthy, beaten-up, rust-buckets. Whichever AFV you chose to make next, search for it in the forums and you're certain to find a WIP that you can follow and learn from. Rearguards, Badder
  25. Fantastic winter camo, wonderfully weathered. I particularly like the horizontal 'scuff' marks on the turret, suggesting that the gun was traversed while the tank was positioned amongst bushes or driving through a hedgerow. The dirt and grime on the running gear is spot on. The chipping is superb, chipped where it would get chipped/worn and not just placed in a slap-dash manner. If I may make a suggestion? You've dry-brushed some silver over the tools and MGs and whilst they don't look awful, have you ever thought of using a graphite stick (or something like a 6B pencil) You'll get a much better, more realistic effect. I sand the graphite stick/pencil into a sharp point, dip a brush into the 'scrapings' and dry-brush them over the metal. Then I use the sharpened point of the stick/pencil to further highlight specific details. The graphite can be removed easily if required, simply by washing off with water. And with that in mind it's best to graphite your tools MGs at the very end of the project. Even a sprayed varnish will remove the graphite. Rearguards, Badder