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Badder

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Everything posted by Badder

  1. FERDINAND/ELEFANT

    Looks good. More pics of the Elefant please! Rearguards, Badder
  2. Yep, I'm going for: TAMIYA'S 1/35th SHERMAN M4A3E8 with my first serious attempt at Photo-Etch. And why not go for a diorama while I'm at it? EASY PEASY!!!! EDIT: Now that work has started, I have decided to model my Easy 8 on a photo supplied by @Sgt.Squarehead. That photo shows a Sherman with additional armour plate added to the front of the tank. I thought that was something my limited skills could handle. Subsequent closer inspections shows that the uppermost armour 'plate' is actually an entire glacis, cut from another (presumably destroyed) Sherman and 'plonked' on top to give this one a new 'face'. Hence the title change, with reference and a special thanks to Mssrs John Travolta and Nicholas Cage. Don't worry, it won't be a Sherman shooting rounds up the rear end of a Tiger I, nor a Sherman sat disabled at a crossroads with 200 crack SS troops failing to overcome it for many, many, hours. What it will be is a winter camo Sherman, in a winter setting, somewhere near Bastogne, January 1945. Although there is no reference to 'winter camouflage' in the painting diagrams, there MUST have been some Shermans wearing it. I received the Eduard PE set for this Sherman today, and have bought a soldering iron. My previous attempt at PE was a complete disaster. ME+PE+CA = brass-plated fingers. For the diorama I am going to use the building I started making for my 'Ever Evolving Diorama' - the one made from the MiniArt Ruined Village House kit and the plaster casts which I took from it. TFL Rearguards, Badder
  3. Land Rover Leightweight

    Smart little kit, done well. The licence plates will really make it 'zing' when they are on. Rearguards Badder
  4. M7 Priest

    Welcome to the nuthouse! Better late than never, but then you are lucky to be working in a smaller scale! Reaguards, Badder
  5. MERRY X MAS

    Looking good Ozzy! I love a nice crowd on a Sherman! I didn't know him, but sorry to hear about Mr Grove. No doubt he was a great ambassador for our hobby, as all model shop owners are. ps, great to see a work surface approaching a level half as messy as mine! Rearguards Badder
  6. ONLY 9 PAGES OF THE EVER EVOLVIN' DIO PHOTOS TO REPLACE!

  7. 'FACE OFF' More Top Tips p12

    First things first, I've extended the mud/staining upwards on one side of the added frontal armour. It seemed to me that the mud stopped fairly abruptly at the join with the bolted plate and didn't look right. Now onto the stowage. As well as the figures, the Tamiya kit comes with 3 ammo crates for the .50cal and 2 for the .45cal bow MG. I've given the crates coats of the required colours and coats of gloss in readiness for the decals. Each crate has 4 decals. Some are tiny, so I expect to ruin some! MiniArt's kit comes with nothing but the figures (unless I lost a decal sheet which I was not aware it had) The details are better than those of the Tamiya kit, but the poses are a bit lame, with no 'action' poses. With 11 figures in total, I'm hoping I can cannibalise some of them and make something more interesting. I will only make 4-6 figures, so I should have enough decals to do them all justice. BTW, I now have a powerful desktop lamp, just like the wife's, thanks to an early birthday present from the in-laws. TFL Badder TFL Pics later.
  8. 'FACE OFF' More Top Tips p12

    I have a choice of figures for the crew.... I may try a bit of cannibalism to get a pose I am particularly wanting. There's a few ammo boxes with the Tamiya kit, which is handy. The troublesome guitar wire aerial: I tried drilling a hole in the tip of the aerial mount, but that proved too difficult for me. I then tried melting a hole instead. That wasn't very successful either. So I removed the tip of the mount, leaving the wider collar to play with instead. Eventually I got a satisfactory hole melted into it and fixed the guitar wire in place. The tip of the mount can now be re-built around the base of the aerial. A tip for anyone using guitar wire as an aerial: Mine was slightly curved and had a bit of a kink in it. I straightened it by clamping each end in a pair of pliers, pulled it tight and then heated the entire length over a candle. I didn't relax the tension on the wire until I had removed it from the heat source and had let it cool fully. TFL Badder
  9. 'FACE OFF' More Top Tips p12

    Hi Stix, Yesterday I overdosed on chocolates and so had sky-high blood sugar - which is never a good idea! Loads of insulin did solve that problem, but I had terrible heartburn and acid reflux all night and didn't sleep well. However, I did feel better today and it's been a good day all round, thanks for asking. Thanks for liking my worn whitewash! I'm fairly pleased with how it looks. Messy, but realistically messy, I hope! After the work above I tried tidying up a few bits and pieces. I re-drilled the barrel of the .50cal, getting it properly central. Unfortunately I had to take 1mm off the length of the barrel to square it up after a bit of a boo-boo with a hot needle. I thought about replacing it with the .50cal from my Sherman 105mm, but when I compared them, they were actually the same length, so that was fortunate! I also made and fixed the aerial in place. That wasn't so easy either. I used a guitar string instead of my usual carbon fibre pole-float stem, thinking I could heat that up and just stick it into the mount. I had problems getting that central. It took me a length of time I am not prepared to confess, but I got it done eventually. I have to replace the very top of the mount though as I cut that off, leaving a 'collar' with a greater diameter in which to stick the aerial. Replacing the top of the mount should be easy. I will just slip a fine nylon cylinder down the aerial and onto the collar. This cylinder will be a 'rubber' used in angling to hold pole floats on the line. Then I have to re-drill the bow MG barrel, because that's off centre... ho hum! Once that's done I will crack on with the stowage. I believe I have the US Tank Crew set, with the ammo boxes etc. I will have to check. Bit of a problem if I haven't! Perhaps some craftily shaped tarps will 'cover things up'. Rearguards Badder
  10. Unfortunately, HostingPics, my image host, is shutting down. I have a 'few months' in which to retrieve and replace my photos. I am in that process now, but obviously with so many pages and photos to edit, it may be that at some point the links will be 'dead'. Bear with me, because I do intend to replace them before or after that happens. Pics replaced up to and including page 28. ATTENTION! ANYONE WHO HAS FOLLOWED ONE OF MY DIORAMA WIPs WILL KNOW THAT THEY TEND TO EVOLVE OVER TIME! THEREFORE IT WILL COME AS NO SURPRISE THAT THE ENTIRE THEME OF THIS DIORAMA HAS CHANGED, AS OF TODAY, 24/01/17. WHISLT THE CONSTRUCTION OF THE MINIART BUILDING (WITH MOULDS AND CASTINGS) CONTINUES AS PREDICTED THE SETTING FOR THE DIO IS NO LONGER A WINTER ONE, AND THE FEATURED VEHICHLE IS NO LONGER A STuG III. SO, THE 'WINTER TREE' FEATURED IN THIS THREAD WILL NO LONGER APPEAR IN THIS DIO. APART FROM THAT AND THE PROLOGUE/THEME PARAGRAPHS, THE THREAD CAN BE READ AS IS, AND ALL OTHER CONTENT IS STILL RELEVENT. FOR THOSE WHO ARE UPSET ENOUGH TO WANT TO KNOW WHY, THE REASONS ARE LISTED ON PAGE 9, MY SINCERE APOLOGIES BADDER ATTENTION AGAIN! 28/01/17 I DECIDED TO DOUBLE THE SIZE OF THE BASE, SO NOW THERE'S ROOM FOR ANOTHER BUILDING. For the fourth time of trying... grrrr.... at interrupternet. Where's the Autosave function gone? PROLOGUE Having just completed my StuG III I now find myself with three finished AFV's sitting on the shelf with no bases. Now, when I joined BM I was determined not to move onto a new project until I had completed the current one, and that was to include a diorama for each. I am now three dioramas behind, or four if I count my dismantled Viller Bocage diorama which is waiting for a re-build. So, how better to remedy the situation that to build a diorama for the AFV most fresh in my mind? THEME: It was about 1975 when I first started building models, inspired as I was by my elder cousin's Tamiya SAS Jeep, Tamiya Sd.Kfz 222 armoured car and Tamiya Pink Panther Landrover (you can see a theme developing here). And I positively drooled over the Tamiya Catalogues, or more precisely the Francois Verlinden dioramas featured therein. So, upon my return to model-making 35yrs later I had in my head those wonderful Verlinden dioramas. I could recall them all, in fairly good detail and one related to a StuG IV. It was photographed laid up in an ambush position, observing the lowland fields from within the ruins of a farm building. I want to pay homage to that diorama, although mine will be set in winter, in the Ardennes during the Battle of the Bulge. Oh, and of course, mine is a Dragon StuG III, but that's another story. Anyway, a quick look at the title will tell you that there's going to be a bit more to this diorama than was evident in Francois Verlinden's and anyone who saw my entry to the Vignette GB will guess that this one is also going to feature a pig, only one that is somewhat larger and more ferocious. The 'ambushers' will in fact become the 'ambushed' or 'hambushed' hopefully, with humourous consequences. Aaaah the luxury of having time to plan a diorama rather than rush a vignette and make compromises! So, that's the theme and title sorted. MATERIALS: I will add to this list as each material comes to be used. I believe I have all the materials I require, but I may run out of some along the way. For now though, I will be starting on the base and basic structures with: MDF board roughly 80cm x 60cm Pine battens. Balsa wood. 2mm. Privet Hedge 'Branch' MiniArt 'Ruined Village House'. MinArt 'Ardennes Building' Plasticard sheets of varying thickness. Semi-transparent 'white' Plastic Milk Container. Thin card. Graph paper. Grass mat. Corrugated cardboard. High density polystyrene sheet. Bryant and May extra long safety matches. Bar-be-quick giant safety matches. Toothpicks. Balsa 'stick' from a spent firework rocket. Diamond patterned rubber mat (the kind you might find lining the tray in the dashboard of a commercial vehicle for example) Coffee stirring sticks. WIRES, FISHING LINES. 'Brass' picture hanging wire. Maxima Nylon Monofilament Fishing line in spools of 100m.... 12lb, 10lb, 6lb, 2lb breaking strains. Drennan Braided Fishing Line 6lb breaking strain. Green. Drennan Micro Braid Hooklength Line 5lb breaking strain, silver and black spiralled thread. PVA glue CA glue, thin, medium and thick. Liquid Poly. Squadron Products Green Putty. Plaster of Paris. Polyfilla. Liquid Latex. Sellotape. Miliput. Humbrol Enamels. Humbrol Weathering Powders. Humbrol Washes. Tamiya Acrylics. Japanese 'Grit Paints' MIG Pigments. Daler and Rowney Acrylic Artists Inks. Winsor and Newton Watercolours. Winsor and Newton Galeria gloss, satin and matt varnishes. SCATTERS/EFFECTS: Plaster of Paris dust (that is Plaster of Paris which has set solid and then been scraped away to form dust) As such, it acts much more like weathering powder than it does 'talcum powder'. Bart's Dill Tops. Bart's Chervil. Bart's Basil. Peco Scene Static Grass. Woodland Scenics Static Grass in Light, Medium and Dark Green, Straw Yellow. Woodland Scenics 'Yellow Grass' (scatter) Woodland Scenics 'Field Grass', in Dark, Mid and Light Green, and 'Harvest Gold'. Woodland Scenics 'Underbrush' in Dark and Light Green. Cat litter. RP leaf punches: Maple, oak, lime, beech, in scales 1/16, 1/24th, 1/35th 1/48th Non-standard tools: 'Snowflake' paper punch from Hobbycraft for manufacturing 'ivy leaves'. 'Chain of 3 snowflakes' paperpunch 'Lace-doily' pattern paperpunch That's it for now. If anyone follows this thread, I hope you find at least a few nuggets of helpful information. I will also welcome any advice/tips/criticisms. Thanks, Badder THE FOLLOWING LIST OF 'CHAPTERS' IS CURRENTLY UNDER CONSTRUCTION, BUT WILL GIVE PAGE NUMBERS AND CONTENTS. I'VE TRIED TO BREAK THE THREAD UP INTO CHAPTERS EACH CONTAINING A SPECIFIC 'THEME' SO THAT READERS CAN 'ZOOM IN' ON THOSE THAT INTEREST THEM, AND SKIP THOSE THAT DON'T. PLEASE NOTE THAT THE LIST WON'T BE CORRECT UNTIL IT HAS BEEN COMPLETED AND CHECKED. CHATPER ONE. PAGES 1-3 MiniArt 'Ruined Village House'. It should be noted that this building was made prior to the purchase of the MiniArt Ardennes building, which ultimately supplanted it. Making latex moulds of kit parts. Casting copies of kit parts in plaster of Paris. How to quickly and easily remove vacu-formed parts from their backing. Using kit parts and casts to construct a larger ruined building. Joining hollow plastic vacu-formed parts to plaster parts using CA-doused cardboard and paper to increase the contact areas and strengthen the model. Pages 3-4 Painting, weathering, adding moss (herbs) and other details to the building. NOT USED IN THE DIORAMA DUE TO CHANGE OF SCENARIO: Page 4 Making a 'winter tree' from real twigs. Making 'ivy' using Silver Birch 'catkins' and paper leaves made with a 'snowflake' paper punch. Snow effects using CA and Bicarbonate of Soda. Pages 4-5 More work on painting and weathering the building. Pages 5-7 Making a fireplace and chimney stack from plaster parts cast from Tamiya's Brick Wall Set and the Miniart building. Painting and weathering of fireplace and chimney. Soot and burnt hearth. Moss using 'Grit Paint'. Using paper to emulate old plaster. Pages 7-8 A quick and easy method of making corrugated iron from corrugated cardboard, with the assistance of Thin CA. Pages 8- More work on the building Tea leaves as wall 'creepers' CHAPTER TWO Pages 10- MINIART 'ARDENNES BUILDING Cutting, removing, fitting and reinforcing vacu-formed parts. Correcting mistakes in the kit with regards to fit. Making moulds of the kit's walls and roof, casting and constructing new walls and roofing to create a whole building. Page 22- Creating a heavily weathered whitewashed wall. Making 'ivy' leaves using Hobbycraft 'snowflake' paper punch. Fixing ivy to the walls. CHAPTER THREE Page 27- THE BIG TREE Scratch building a large tree using my nylon monofilament fishing line method. Real twig armature. Wire-cored Gardener's Twine used to create branches, each holding bunches of fishing line 'twigs'. Dipping bunches of 'twigs' in CA and herbs and attaching to the armature. CHAPTER FOUR Page 32- STARTING TO ADD COMPONENTS TO THE DIORAMA BASE. Constructing a hedgerow 'off the diorama'. Metal gauze embedded in plaster to aid static grass application.Sea Foam bushes and trees. Fishing line plants. Flowers made from paper punch 'off cuts'. Page 34- Fixing hedgerow to the base. Making a stream bed. (A Mill Race) Mill Race 'walls' from Plaster cast brickwork. Astroturf for marginal rushes. (Reedmace) How to make streamer weeds using cotton wool and CA. Sluice gate. 'Marigolds' and water plants made using paper punches. CHAPTER FIVE. Page 36- THE GRASSY BANK AND BARBED WIRE FENCE. Opposite bank with metal guaze embedded to aid static grass application. Applying static grass. Making a realistic barbed-wire fence using braided fishing line for the main wiring and nylon monofilament fishing line for barbs. Tamiya 'fence posts' from their Barricade Set. Flowering the bank. Gauzing and plastering the track area. Painting the track area. (undercoat) CHAPTER ELEVEN. CHATPER TWELVE. CHAPTER THIRTEEN. CHAPTER FOURTEEN. CHAPTER FIFTEEN. CHAPTER SIXTEEN. CHAPTER SEVENTEEN. CHAPTER EIGHTEEN. CHAPTER NINETEEN. CHAPTER TWENTY.
  11. Hi Major, The 'woman' is actually long-deceased English comedian called 'Dick Emery' in drag. It was he who invented the 'sandpaper' non-slip finish on surf boards an so they called them 'Emery Boards'. Rearguards, Badder
  12. Sexton 11 25 PDR

    Coming together nicely. Those figures look the business, with realistic poses. Rearguards, Badder
  13. 1/35 M4A2 76mm "Wet" Sherman

    Lovely work Nigel. Rearguards, Badder
  14. Great work. I'm liking all the markings. Lovely textures. Nice stowage. I can see no figure though! Rearguards, Badder
  15. 'FACE OFF' More Top Tips p12

    Looking at the rear, I can see now I need to add more mud and grass. With this done (apart from needing some more mud and grass on and around the exhaust deflector) I will now be moving on to the stowage and the figures. TFL Badder
  16. 'FACE OFF' More Top Tips p12

    I've added mud/grass to the frontal armour, a bit beneath the sponsons, and more on the tracks. I then gave everything beneath the sponsons, and the overhanging armour plate a spray with gloss, and everything above the side fenders a spray with matt. Any further weathering, which won't be much, will be done with powders. TFL Badder
  17. Winter in Russia

    Hard to believe that's 1/72nd! A well thought out and well executed diorama! Fantastic groundwork! Brilliant! Lots of !!!!!! Reaguards Badder
  18. Good job Dave, Great to see a few dioramas being completed during the STGB. A nice early Sherman, but I have to admit to liking the Jeep even more! Rearguards Badder
  19. Bought these at the One Stop corner shop. £1 for 32 emery boards of varying grades. Bargain! Work will recommence on this diorama next week, in between building the diorama for my Sherman in the M3/M4 STGB. TFL Badder
  20. Stunning stuff Stix. The mud and latest weathering is wonderful. I feel I have to point out just one tiny 'error' which I only noticed just now, and it's best shown in the photo below. It concerns the streaking, and specifically that on the turret just below the periscope on the left where the sticky-up 'tab' thing is. The streak runs down from the 'tab' and then onto the ledge of the extra armour. At that point I would have thought the moisture would follow the curve of the joint between the turret and the extra armour, all the way down to the number 2, rather than cross the 'ledge' and then continue down the front. A small point, but it just doesn't look right to me. ps, after more photos of your .50cal, I think I'm going to replace mine. Mine looks like a half-chewed jelly baby compared to yours. Rearguards, Badder
  21. M4A3, CALLIOPE, 1/35

    Beautiful work Glynn. Rearguards, Badder
  22. 'FACE OFF' More Top Tips p12

    Thanks Wimbledon, I barely got anything done today due to falling asleep. But I've just got the .50cal painted up, glossed and ready for the decal before washes and a rub over with a graphite stick. That'll be done tomorrow along with the fitting of the bow MG. I'm also going to make an aerial. There just aren't enough aerials in this GB! And if anyone is kind enough to supply photos of the bow gunner's 'cockpit' I'll start on making that too. Rearguards, Badder
  23. 'FACE OFF' More Top Tips p12

    I am planning on adding some crew to the Sherman - probably the commander and maybe the driver, but the MG gunner will be absent. So, I am thinking I had better model some of the interior as seen through his hatch. Now, I don't want to go crazy scratch building his 'cockpit' in immaculate detail, but I do want it to look believable. I am thinking of making something in paper, with details painted and drawn on. So, does anyone have a few photos looking down inside the hatch? Cheers, Badder
  24. 'FACE OFF' More Top Tips p12

    IPA, that's about all it's good for! I will ponder the oils. And maybe test it out on the front armour plate first. Rearguards, Badder
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