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Badder

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Everything posted by Badder

  1. Well, that was interesting. I've made in-roads into the new ramp; cutting away a section of the cobbles, the top layer of 'foam board', sanding the plaster down and removing a section of the wire gauze. The PVA sandwiched between the two layers of foam board was still wet. I guess the lack of air in there prolongs the drying process. I'm not sure how far the ramp has to extend towards the doors yet and I've only roughed out the width, but I do have enough mat to complete the cobbles if I cut it up and make a mosaic from the pieces. It won't be ideal though, so I am keeping my fingers crossed that I can get that other piece later today. TFL Badder
  2. ATTENTION! ANYONE WHO HAS FOLLOWED ONE OF MY DIORAMA WIPs WILL KNOW THAT THEY TEND TO EVOLVE OVER TIME! THEREFORE IT WILL COME AS NO SURPRISE THAT THE ENTIRE THEME OF THIS DIORAMA HAS CHANGED, AS OF TODAY, 24/01/17. WHISLT THE CONSTRUCTION OF THE MINIART BUILDING (WITH MOULDS AND CASTINGS) CONTINUES AS PREDICTED THE SETTING FOR THE DIO IS NO LONGER A WINTER ONE, AND THE FEATURED VEHICHLE IS NO LONGER A STuG III. SO, THE 'WINTER TREE' FEATURED IN THIS THREAD WILL NO LONGER APPEAR IN THIS DIO. APART FROM THAT AND THE PROLOGUE/THEME PARAGRAPHS, THE THREAD CAN BE READ AS IS, AND ALL OTHER CONTENT IS STILL RELEVENT. FOR THOSE WHO ARE UPSET ENOUGH TO WANT TO KNOW WHY, THE REASONS ARE LISTED ON PAGE 9, MY SINCERE APOLOGIES BADDER ATTENTION AGAIN! 28/01/17 I DECIDED TO DOUBLE THE SIZE OF THE BASE, SO NOW THERE'S ROOM FOR ANOTHER BUILDING. For the fourth time of trying... grrrr.... at interrupternet. Where's the Autosave function gone? PROLOGUE Having just completed my StuG III I now find myself with three finished AFV's sitting on the shelf with no bases. Now, when I joined BM I was determined not to move onto a new project until I had completed the current one, and that was to include a diorama for each. I am now three dioramas behind, or four if I count my dismantled Viller Bocage diorama which is waiting for a re-build. So, how better to remedy the situation that to build a diorama for the AFV most fresh in my mind? THEME: It was about 1975 when I first started building models, inspired as I was by my elder cousin's Tamiya SAS Jeep, Tamiya Sd.Kfz 222 armoured car and Tamiya Pink Panther Landrover (you can see a theme developing here). And I positively drooled over the Tamiya Catalogues, or more precisely the Francois Verlinden dioramas featured therein. So, upon my return to model-making 35yrs later I had in my head those wonderful Verlinden dioramas. I could recall them all, in fairly good detail and one related to a StuG IV. It was photographed laid up in an ambush position, observing the lowland fields from within the ruins of a farm building. I want to pay homage to that diorama, although mine will be set in winter, in the Ardennes during the Battle of the Bulge. Oh, and of course, mine is a Dragon StuG III, but that's another story. Anyway, a quick look at the title will tell you that there's going to be a bit more to this diorama than was evident in Francois Verlinden's and anyone who saw my entry to the Vignette GB will guess that this one is also going to feature a pig, only one that is somewhat larger and more ferocious. The 'ambushers' will in fact become the 'ambushed' or 'hambushed' hopefully, with humourous consequences. Aaaah the luxury of having time to plan a diorama rather than rush a vignette and make compromises! So, that's the theme and title sorted. MATERIALS: I will add to this list as each material comes to be used. I believe I have all the materials I require, but I may run out of some along the way. For now though, I will be starting on the base and basic structures with: MDF board roughly 80cm x 60cm Pine battens. Balsa wood. 2mm. Privet Hedge 'Branch' MiniArt 'Ruined Village House'. MinArt 'Ardennes Building' Plasticard sheets of varying thickness. Semi-transparent 'white' Plastic Milk Container. Thin card. Graph paper. Grass mat. Corrugated cardboard. High density polystyrene sheet. Bryant and May extra long safety matches. Bar-be-quick giant safety matches. Toothpicks. Balsa 'stick' from a spent firework rocket. Diamond patterned rubber mat (the kind you might find lining the tray in the dashboard of a commercial vehicle for example) Coffee stirring sticks. WIRES, FISHING LINES. 'Brass' picture hanging wire. Maxima Nylon Monofilament Fishing line in spools of 100m.... 12lb, 10lb, 6lb, 2lb breaking strains. Drennan Braided Fishing Line 6lb breaking strain. Green. Drennan Micro Braid Hooklength Line 5lb breaking strain, silver and black spiralled thread. PVA glue CA glue, thin, medium and thick. Liquid Poly. Squadron Products Green Putty. Plaster of Paris. Polyfilla. Liquid Latex. Sellotape. Miliput. Humbrol Enamels. Humbrol Weathering Powders. Humbrol Washes. Tamiya Acrylics. Japanese 'Grit Paints' MIG Pigments. Daler and Rowney Acrylic Artists Inks. Winsor and Newton Watercolours. Winsor and Newton Galeria gloss, satin and matt varnishes. SCATTERS/EFFECTS: Plaster of Paris dust (that is Plaster of Paris which has set solid and then been scraped away to form dust) As such, it acts much more like weathering powder than it does 'talcum powder'. Bart's Dill Tops. Bart's Chervil. Bart's Basil. Peco Scene Static Grass. Woodland Scenics Static Grass in Light, Medium and Dark Green, Straw Yellow. Woodland Scenics 'Yellow Grass' (scatter) Woodland Scenics 'Field Grass', in Dark, Mid and Light Green, and 'Harvest Gold'. Woodland Scenics 'Underbrush' in Dark and Light Green. Cat litter. RP leaf punches: Maple, oak, lime, beech, in scales 1/16, 1/24th, 1/35th 1/48th Non-standard tools: 'Snowflake' paper punch from Hobbycraft for manufacturing 'ivy leaves'. 'Chain of 3 snowflakes' paperpunch 'Lace-doily' pattern paperpunch That's it for now. If anyone follows this thread, I hope you find at least a few nuggets of helpful information. I will also welcome any advice/tips/criticisms. Thanks, Badder THE FOLLOWING LIST OF 'CHAPTERS' IS CURRENTLY UNDER CONSTRUCTION, BUT WILL GIVE PAGE NUMBERS AND CONTENTS. I'VE TRIED TO BREAK THE THREAD UP INTO CHAPTERS EACH CONTAINING A SPECIFIC 'THEME' SO THAT READERS CAN 'ZOOM IN' ON THOSE THAT INTEREST THEM, AND SKIP THOSE THAT DON'T. PLEASE NOTE THAT THE LIST WON'T BE CORRECT UNTIL IT HAS BEEN COMPLETED AND CHECKED. CHATPER ONE. PAGES 1-3 MiniArt 'Ruined Village House'. Making moulds and of kit parts. Casting copies of kit parts in plaster of Paris. How to quickly and easily remove vacu-formed parts from their backing. Using kit parts and casts to construct a larger ruined building. Joining hollow plastic vacu-formed parts to plaster parts using CA-doused cardboard and paper to increase the contact areas and strengthen the model. CHAPTER TWO. Pages 3-4 Painting, weathering, adding moss (herbs) and other details to the building. CHAPTER THREE. Page 4 Making a 'winter tree' from real twigs. Making 'ivy' using Silver Birch 'catkins' and paper leaves made with a 'snowflake' paper punch. Snow effects using CA and Bicarbonate of Soda. CHAPTER FOUR. Pages 4-5 More work on painting and weathering the building. CHAPTER FIVE. Pages 5-7 Making a fireplace and chimney stack from plaster parts cast from Tamiya's Brick Wall Set and the Miniart building. CHAPTER SIX. Pages 7- Painting and weathering of fireplace and chimney. Soot and burnt hearth. Moss using 'Grit Paint'. Using paper to emulate old plaster. CHAPTER SEVEN. Pages 7-8 A quick and easy method of making corrugated iron from corrugated cardboard, with the assistance of Thin CA. CHAPTER EIGHT. CHAPTER NINE. CHAPTER TEN. CHAPTER ELEVEN. CHATPER TWELVE. CHAPTER THIRTEEN. CHAPTER FOURTEEN. CHAPTER FIFTEEN. CHAPTER SIXTEEN. CHAPTER SEVENTEEN. CHAPTER EIGHTEEN. CHAPTER NINETEEN. CHAPTER TWENTY.
  3. So, that'll be the end of British Aerospace will it? No more British designed/built robots exploring the planets? No more borrowing French rockets to launch our satellites into space? No more working with the ESA? Will Britain tumble down the rankings of 'Space Science and Technologies'?
  4. 1:144 Junk Speeder Scratchbuild

    Indeed. I first realised this in 1977, aged 12, while collecting the Topps bubble gum Star Wars Collectible Cards. Still, I'd rather fly something with radar, computer aids, heads up display, canopies/cockpits and airtight hull than a rocking chair strapped to the side of a rocket. Rearguards, Badder
  5. Ahhhh! Thanks @bhouse Nope, that didn't seem to work @bhouse But that did. And I don't think I did anything different.
  6. BTW, can someone please tell me how you do that quoting a member's tag/name and it highlights it in black and notifies the person that they've been mentioned in a post? TY Badder.
  7. I've just had a cracking idea.... A Universal Carrier has reversed up the new ramp to the double doors. The wicket door (which I deliberately left dry-fitted in case I decided to open it fully at a later stage) is wide open, exposing an interior. The interior is packed with stores of food, water, milk and the odd bottle of wine, which the grateful farmer is handing over to the UC crew for distribution amongst the platoon. Yes, I could have used the same 'set piece' with the building facing the mill race, but that would just 'clog' the view from the left hand side of the diorama. By turning the building to face front, I can now, as I said a few posts ago, have two photogenic and interesting scenes instead of one. I like it. And I do have to thank @PlaStix and his 'liking' of those earlier photos, because if I hadn't returned to them to have a look and remind myself of that view over the mill race, I would surely have gone on to leave the building as it was, and wouldn't have come up with any of this! TFL Badder
  8. I've just realised that I do in fact have some more diamond rubber mat: the stuff I used as a floor for the first building I built! A quick recce and I believe there's enough to cover all of the platform. I know what I'll be doing tonight! TFL Badder
  9. Here's the front of the building now facing the front of the dio again. As you can see, there is a large area of 'uncobbledness' now exposed. I will wait until tomorrow to see if I can get that diamond rubber mat before I try option two, which is to skim the area with plaster and carve the diamonds by hand. Also, you'll see that I've mocked up another ramp to access the platform and the double doors. If I were to slope the ramp so that it meets ground level at the edge of the dio, it would be rather steep and therefore illogical and unrealistic. But I don't want to make the slope shallow and chop it off at the edge leaving that black-painted 'cliff' I so dislike. So, what I'm going to have to do is increase the length of the ramp inwards, maybe half way up to the doors, and that means chopping into the platform, 'counter-sinking' the ramp. But that's fine. Better to do that than try to cut, lift, rotate and re-bed the whole platform! But the result of all this messing about is that I can now add a vehicle and/or figures in front of the building, whereas before there was just the end of a building and no room for a 'set piece'. I'm thinking someone drove their Universal Carrier up there and parked up, much to the annoyance of the farmer or his wife. Meanwhile, there are a few areas where the building now sits on cobbles - those being the woodshed, porch and rear wall of the building. I could trim these strips off and maybe use them to fill in the gap out front. TFL Badder
  10. Guess what? Having done all that work on the 'platform' for the building in its new orientation, I've had a long think and have decided to revert back to the building facing front! I HAVE TO ADMIT I HAVE ALSO HAD A LONG HARD THINK ABOUT WHY IT WAS THAT I CHANGED IT IN THE FIRST PLACE! AND I CAN'T FOR THE LIFE OF ME REMEMBER WHY! Here's why I'm changing it back though. I REALLY liked the photogenic view referred to by PlaStix earlier, when the building WAS facing front. It wasn't such a good view when the building was re-orientated. But there was another negative brought about by the re-orientation, and that was a lack of space at the front of the dio. With the re-orientation of the building there is NO room for a vehicle here, and therefore I've lost a photogenic view. So, NOT ideal. Better to return to the original orientation now rather than later. I could try to cut, lift and rotate the whole platform/building then bed it in again with plaster, but that would mean a lot of work. Far easier would be to leave the platform as it is, rotate just the building and then adapt the platform to make sense of the building's orientation. A bit of a boo-boo today.... I managed to find some more diamond rubber mat... but then left it behind. I'm not sure it'll be there tomorrow, but if it is that'll be very handy to fill the gaps I am now left with. TFL Badder
  11. 1:144 Junk Speeder Scratchbuild

    Great stuff. I would not like to ride the 'out-rigger' though, with the whole starboard view blocked by those engines. Well scary! Rearguards, Badder
  12. Thanks Brian, Much appreciated, again. The diamond cobbles.... It's good to know that real life is mirroring my work! The rubber mat was a good find indeed! Sadly, I've none left, but I may be able to source a bit more if I am lucky! Any photos you have would be greatly appreciated, not just by me, but by everyone I'm sure. Too late for this diorama in respect of a full layout, but certainly some details could be added. And I'd love to make a diorama based on real life rural architecture and scenery! Rearguards, Badder
  13. Hi Stix, I am okay thanks, a period of stressfulness over at last with the step daughter having finally found herself permanent residence and no longer using our house as a hotel! I hope all is well with you and yours. With regards to the photos you mentioned, the whole idea was to create a diorama with many interesting and photogenic viewpoints, not one with just the one dominant view. That particular photo was very pleasing to my eye as well, but the orientation of the building had to be changed in order to more easily create differences in ground level. So all the views have now altered. I'm not sure that they've all altered for the better and it may have been a mistake, but hey ho, it's too late now. I suppose I could add some more shrubbery to 'repair' that particular view again. Hopefully I won't knock anything over again. And the cats have now been barred from the room since I returned from work one day and found Connie asleep slap bang in the centre of the diorama! Grrrrr! Thanks again for your comments and continued support, Rearguards, Badder
  14. It's not easy, adding snow to a vehicle. You first have to decide how cold the temperatures are, and how deep the snow is. Both have an influence over where and how the snow and ice gathers on the vehicle. And if you go for a lot of accumulation you end up hiding all of your diligent building and careful painting. I don't envy you having to make those choices! When I did my 'winter StuG' I watched a lot of WWII footage of tanks on the Eastern Front for reference. I would be surprised if you haven't done the same, so I look forward to seeing which path you take. Rearguards, Badder
  15. The reason why I kept putting off building the ramp was because I wasn't looking forward to working the plaster to get it angled correctly, smoothly and level across the slope. It would require me to use a spirit level (I thought) and probably need a fair bit of sanding before gluing the rubber mat to it. But today I realised I was once again being stupid. I didn't need to use plaster at all. All I had to do was glue the bottom edge of the rubber 'flap' to the ground and then fit stonework either side. As long as the bottom edge of the slope was level, and the top was too, the ramp could in fact be hollow. Here's the result, again using the 'not foam-board' to make the stonework. The bottom edge of the ramp was CA'd into a level groove which I countersunk into the plaster ground. Before anyone asks, no I haven't forgotten about the drainpipe and where the water will go. I will be sinking a drain into the cobbles, the outlet pipe sticking out from the stonework at the side. TFL Badder
  16. Oh, well, it ISN'T foam board then! It's one hundred percent waterproof for a start. All the way through. The 'skin' is smooth, plastic-like and so thin it's probably formed by compression, spreading and squeezing the substance against a smooth mould while the inner is only slightly less dense. I really don't know how else I can describe it. Like I said earlier, I personally wouldn't call the inner foam-like. Reargaurds, Badder
  17. Thanks Brian. I've been informed that it's foam board and that it's available from Hobbycraft. I will be going there next weekend so I will have a look then just to confirm yay or nay. BTW, I once found some strange type of very thick sandpapery type cloth, similar to Emery cloth, only on a thicker backing and sheet form and no one could tell me what it was or who manufactured it. I was advised to phone and ask the British Abrasive Society. I phoned them and said 'Hello? Is that the British Abrasive Society?' After a pause a someone said: 'Yes, you %%$£&&^^"^"^"**()()!! stupid :????Z""?""$C$C$!!' Rearguards Badder
  18. Well, that diorama no longer exists so I could use that idea again. Only I don't want to. So I won't. Still thinking on it. Rearguards, Badder
  19. Thanks for dropping in John. You may be right with the 'never ending dio' I could do a 'building a HAS' type thing???? I jest. No progress today so far as I had to drive 90 miles to London to drop off a car full of my step daughter's belongings. THEN I had to lug it all up 4 flights of stairs while she, her ox of a boyfriend and my wife sat and had a cup of tea. Good job I was 'puffed out' or I'd have been able to swear a lot. Anywaaaaaaaayyyyyy.... home now and staring at the diorama trying to visualise the possibilities! Rearguards Badder
  20. Hi, I think most people would use tissue paper soaked in dilute PVA. That's tissue you might wrap things in, not the tissue you shove up your 'exhaust pipe'. However, I've tried various tissue papers and have yet found one that works for me. I usually end up with something that we might have chewed up at school and fired at teacher with a hollow biro pen. Others would use something like Miliput. At that scale though, I think the tissue paper would be the best bet. Hope that helps. Rearguards, Badder.
  21. Well....... The Churchill kit comes with a commander figure looking at a map (Well, my OLD Churchill kit did, but it's possible the new Churchill doesn't - I haven't seen him pictured on the side of the box as previously) I will have to dig it out of my stash and check. However, my second diorama since returning to model-making 'Lost in France' used that idea: with the Churchill crew asking the farmer for directions. So I'm reluctant to use that idea again. I've had a brief look at the history of Cromwells used in the Normandy landings and found that they went into Villers Bocage where some were knocked out by Tigers. In this diorama this Cromwell could have suffered some damage, or a mechanical issue, which meant it could only travel very slowly. Struggling to keep up, they decide to return to safety, but get lost in the 'Bocage'. The crew eventually give up, find a friendly local and park the Cromwell beside the big tree, waiting for rescue. My diorama landscape isn't perhaps 'Bocagey' enough, but the scene could have occurred further into France/Belgium etc. I do like the idea of parking the tank up beside the tree. It DOES fill an otherwise 'wasted' space and add interest to that area. It also frees up some space along the track (which was reduced in size with the repositioning of the building and the addition of the cobbled areas) It also gives me the opportunity to add that 'set scene' I refer to now and then. Rearguards, Badder
  22. Thanks Pete, on all counts. Yes, I suppose the Cromwell could be 'lost', or is out of action for some other reason, and the Churchill, UC and infantry come across its crew who are 'taking a break'. I shall have a think about the various possibilities your suggestion opens up. Rearguards, Badder
  23. Model of a model club display 1/12

    Superb! Wonders if there could have been a diorama on the desk as well, and that diorama was a diorama of the desk with the models and the diorama on it, and on the desk of that diorama was a desk with the models and the diorama on it, and on the desk of that diorama was a desk with the models and the diorama on it, and on the desk.... I am getting sleepy. Rearguards, Badder
  24. I hate it when people start a sentence with the word 'so', so I started THIS one with the word 'I', and continued, adding nothing of any consequence. Looking at the photos above I realised that I hadn't added ruts/bare mud for when the farmer's cart turned right after coming down the ramp. Mainly, I wanted his usual direction of travel to be to his left, so that the remainder (and longest section of track on the diorama) would be less used and therefore more grassy. This more grassy area will be the direction from which the AFVs are coming. Once I'd added the extra ruts I decided to mark out the positions of the AFVs, since adding the cobbles around the building has obviously reduced the 'useable' area for those AFVs. My old Churchill VII came down from the bookshelf and was plonked in place. I scored lightly around the outside of the tank's tracks to define their width and thereby the width of any ruts they make. I then took the Cromwell's hull from its box and plonked that on the track as well, noting that the tank's tracks inner edge would be only a millimetre or so outboard of the hull itself. And then I read the instruction sheet and discovered that these Cromwells weren't deployed with Churchills. Silly me. IF ANYONE KNOWS ANY DIFFERENT, CAN YOU PLEASE LET ME KNOW? THANKS. SO, what to do now?i Well, I still have the Universal Carrier, which IS compatible. So why not two churchills and a UC, or one Churchill and two UC's? Or, forget about the Brit armour completely and drop in some German stuff? Oooooh I'm all in a quandary!!!! TFL Badder
  25. I've roughed-out the areas of grass, track and ruts using watercolour paints. That's another to add to the materials list! The colours will show through the PVA after grassing up. Again, there are a few areas where I've left the underlying metal gauze exposed to aid in the grassing up process. For now though, it's back the stonework and that ramp which I keep putting off! TFL Badder
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