Lightning 1:32 (Trumpet)

[silverburn]

Hi again all,

Straight off the 1/48 eurofighter onto this one...

This is also an xmas present contender for my father-in-law. Bird "F" was his in 19th Squadron.

And first thing you notice...it's MASSIVE. Check out XE531 for comparison (1/32 hunter).

...and it's flexible. I can see why others have strengthened the fuselage!

Edited December 1, 2009 by silverburn

[AAbshier]

Hi again all,

Straight off the 1/48 eurofighter onto this one...

This is also an xmas present contender for my father-in-law. Bird "F" was his in 19th Squadron.

You're a braver man than I, Gunga Din. It builds well if you don't make major changes like I did; the F3 has been giving me fits! I'm guessing that you already know that Bill Clark has been working on the F6 for some time; check down thread and you can see the changes and mods he's made. At the very least you're going to need to move the intake trunk and radar tower forward; see my build for how it's done (Bill didn't do that, but he's using FOD covers). OOB, it will look like a Lightning F6, it's just us super-boffins that have felt compelled to make changes.

...and it's flexible. I can see why others have strengthened the fuselage!

Email me your snail mail address and I can send you photocopies of the templates for the bulkheads I made to stiffen up the fuselage near the wing joins. I'd also reccommend additional strengthening back near the exhausts, where the vertical fin meets the fuselage.

Andy

[silverburn]

Simple update...

All the easy stuff is done. Only real problems are:

- The undercarriage doors were a royal pain in the...errr....finger. This will be a "ceiling" model, so it will be in-flight. I had to repeatedly shave a sliver of the door entrances off, until the door fitted. And then I pushed one through too much, and the superglue set, with a slight ridge. Nothing a bit of putty and sanding didn't fix, but I sorely didn't want to do any sanding; I wanted to preserve the rivets and recess everywhere.

- The air intake being too short, but I suspect that's not news to many watching this (or to me)...I suspect many are now nodding their heads sagely...or just crying...

In other news - I have been reliably informed that the lower gun slots on the F2 (which this will be....though I won't be rivet counting) were only opened when the bird was missile-less. And since my father-in-law was on intercept duty, that was never. The RAF's ingenious solution to this policy was simply to fit slightly smaller aluminium plates over the gun barrels. Who needs hi-tech eh?

Anyway, here's today's pic. I can barely get the thing onto an A2-sized cutting board...it's BIG!

[AnonymousAA72]

In other news - I have been reliably informed that the lower gun slots on the F2 (which this will be....though I won't be rivet counting) were only opened when the bird was missile-less. And since my father-in-law was on intercept duty, that was never. The RAF's ingenious solution to this policy was simply to fit slightly smaller aluminium plates over the gun barrels. Who needs hi-tech eh?

Another Lightning? Welcome aboard Euan!! I can't recall seeing a photo of a four cannoned F2A (i.e whats in the kit) I daresay someone will find one and post it - however a four cannon fit seemed to be a feature on quite a few F2's - and as you no doubt know ALL F2A's were converted from F2's...

Just to put a slight spanner in the works.....Some F2's certainly did have Firestreaks AND uncovered lower cannon ports...F2 XN790

Thats not to say that the lower cannons were actually installed as I seem to recall that the missile pack that included the pylons was different to that use when the cannons WERE in place......

[silverburn]

Just to put a slight spanner in the works.....Some F2's certainly did have Firestreaks AND uncovered lower cannon ports...F2 XN790

Thats not to say that the lower cannons were actually installed as I seem to recall that the missile pack that included the pylons was different to that use when the cannons WERE in place......

No doubt - I've got a photo of my father-in-law climbing into his "L" (firestreaks in place), and the lowers are covered (as they're meant to be)...so that's the way I'm going. XN790 probably belonged to those cowboys from 72nd flying "all out" (as he likes to re-call )

PS forgot the photo! here it is:

Oh and a minor diversion...this is the "portfolio" since I started modelling 2-3 months ago!:

[AnonymousAA72]

This is also an xmas present contender for my father-in-law. Bird "F" was his in 19th Squadron.

NOT "19th Sqn" By the way Euan - but "No 19 Sqn" - to be pedantic!!!

Any heres a pic of XN724/"F" of 19 Sqn......

XN724/"F"

[AnonymousAA72]

No doubt - I've got a photo of my father-in-law climbing into his "L" (firestreaks in place), and the lowers are covered (as they're meant to be)...so that's the way I'm going. XN790 probably belonged to those cowboys from 72nd flying "all out" (as he likes to re-call )

PS forgot the photo! here it is:

Oh and a minor diversion...this is the "portfolio" since I started modelling 2-3 months ago!:

"....72nd?" Thats a scale!! Do you mean "92 Sqn?"

And just to put the record straight...heres a 19 Sqn machine flying XN776 flying "all out"!!!!!!

XN776 of 19 Sqn

[silverburn]

I stand corrected on both counts; I must have been thinking of 1/72 when I wrote 72 instead of 92!

A 19th flying "all out"? He won't like that...

This was his one btw...XN724. Bottoms closed...

Edited November 20, 2009 by silverburn

[silverburn]

More progress.

Working mainly on the pit and strengthening.

The Pit:

I'll be honest - this is merely "ok", and I'm not at all happy with it. My dry-brushing wasn't that great, and the seat is actually broken (bottom half of one side missing from kit), so it sits slightly squint. My glueing wasn't great either, nor was my general finishing. A poor show. 3 out of 10. Anyway, it's in, and that's that.

Strengthening:

Now this worked out a little better.

From reading the problems other have had with mid-fuselage flexing, and poor wing attachment, I decided to see what I can do. Bill's forwarding the templates for 2 bulkheads to strengthen it, so I decided to tackle the wing issue in the meantime. A dry fit shows these are gonna be pretty bouncy at the best of times. So I scratch built (there's that word again! I must be a modeller now! ) some strengthening spars. Dead simple. Observe....

With the wings in-situ, I drilled 1 hole either side of the kits tabs, and right through to the wings, on both sides. Thus:

Don't do too far obviously....

Then I got some steel bar from local model shop, and cut to a suitable length for each. I measured mine approximately, so that the bars hit the wing edges on both sides (means I won't need to glue them). I dryfitted one side, then the other.

And viola! (Yes, I know you can see the squint seat from this angle...)

Dead strong too; almost no give in the wings at all, and I've only dry fitted too. Will be better still once super-glued. I'm chuffed!

Edited November 24, 2009 by silverburn

[hazza]

Looks nice, and that is miles better than any pit i could do !

[silverburn]

Lots done today...

...and the significant news is the technique used to "paint" the bodywork.

Essentially I saw it here, and was so impressed, I thought I'd give it a go...and wow, the results are pretty damned impressive in my opinion! Poor man's method it may be, but it's certainly effective!

Here's how it works...

Spray with black. I've done this on separate parts, because I didn't want to be rubbing on a complete model, and end up breaking bits.

Using a finger, use a tiny amount, and very lightly rub a coat on:

Repeat until you have the level of silver/weathering required! Fantastically controllable...have some areas "like new", and others "dirty". Use a dry cloth to buff certain areas if you want them properly shiny. Perfect for the lightning, which gets dirty on the belly, and under the wings.

Stick them together, and bingo, you get this! Believe me, the photo's don't do the effect justice...I have a fantastically dirty lightning! Too dirty in fact...another coat tomorrow I recon.

The only snag I have is how to seal it...It will need a laquer, but what one can I use that will not "dull" the silver effect? I've tried Montana Gold and Humbrol Gloss laquers, and that ruined it...so now I'm stuck! Any deas, chaps?

[AnonymousAA72]

Good grief!!! "Rub N'Buff"! I've not seen that used in a long, long time!! Ted Taylor used to SPRAY that on his models - suitable thinned down of course!!!

May be worth trying to seal it with Kleer? Seems to work with almost everything else?

[silverburn]

Good grief!!! "Rub N'Buff"! I've not seen that used in a long, long time!! Ted Taylor used to SPRAY that on his models - suitable thinned down of course!!!

May be worth trying to seal it with Kleer? Seems to work with almost everything else?

I might just do that! Picked some up at B&Q this morning ("new formula" though...dunno what that means). Wotcha recon - will brushing on work ok? Will it "streak" if I do? I'll do a test on a belly fin.

[Ant]

Be careful with the new formula Klear - it's not the same as the old stuff, and from what I've read, is not as forgiving or easy to use. If you can, try to get hold of an old bottle. Some supermarkets still have it.

As for rub 'n' buff - I've been experimenting with it recently too, and you can get some really impressive metal finishes with it. I've been brushing it on and then buffing it with a duster.

[Martian]

I might just do that! Picked some up at B&Q this morning ("new formula" though...dunno what that means). Wotcha recon - will brushing on work ok? Will it "streak" if I do? I'll do a test on a belly fin.

No spray the stuff I always get a better finish when I do.

Martin

[silverburn]

No spray the stuff I always get a better finish when I do.

Martin

ahah, therein lies the snag...no airbrush! I got the klear for dipping my glass to be honest.

[Ant]

The old klear could be brushed on very easily. I'm not so sure about the new stuff. Someone here was doing some experiments on the stuff. I'll have a hunt around and see if I can find the thread.

[AAbshier]

Hmmm, guess you didn't need my bulkhead templates! Nice work on the structures--you build way faster than I do. Of course, most people do, actually.

I like the Rub n' Buff effect. You might try out the Klear on a scrap section (say, the overwing tanks you're not using) before committing it to the model.

Andy

[silverburn]

Hmmm, guess you didn't need my bulkhead templates! Nice work on the structures--you build way faster than I do. Of course, most people do, actually.

I like the Rub n' Buff effect. You might try out the Klear on a scrap section (say, the overwing tanks you're not using) before committing it to the model.

Andy

No I will probably still need them - I quite fancy doing one of these for myself now! If it's easier, I can print them here, if it's easier?

[woody37]

Wow,

That Rub n Buff looks amazing, never seen that before and your piccies make me wanna buy some.

Where can you get it from ?

Update.... just bought some off Ebay. Now need to make a silver model !!!!

Thanks for sharing

Edited November 29, 2009 by woody37

[silverburn]

I've glued it all together, so that's it - we're committed to the finish now.

Oh, and I've given the "new Klear" a go...

I sampled it on one of the tanks, and did a conventional Laquer job on the other. They both knock back the "texture" of the buff, but the Klear retained a more accurate reflective surface, if you know what I mean. Both passed the "rubbing" test (did any R&B end up on my fingers afterwards), which I guess is the crucial bit. It's not perfect, but I think I'll be struggling to find the perfect product combination within my means and timescales.

So, the Klear is on. It was brushed on neat with a big brush; seemed ok. Laid it on quite generously, and cleaned off any drips. left to dry for 2 hours, and Decals started.

Speaking of Decals...they're wrong! Or at least wrong for my timeframe...XN790 was in the "kit" green, but the actual XN790 I'm doing in in bare Aluminium, with the "3 tone" roundels & flashes! I'm managed to blag some roundels from another (finished) kit, But I'm struggling to find the '90' in XN790 (in both sizes) and the 3 tone flashes. I might have to get them printed, to ensure the font & size are correct.

Nose-ring fitted (taking an eternity to dry) and rest of decals tomorrow, and a few paint touches (ie gun ports). What do you recon - will Klear seal in the decals ok?

[silverburn]

Another evening's work, and we have good news and bad. And by bad, I mean a disaster!

Good:

The rub & buff has survived mostly ok, but I've lost a lot of the metal texture you got with it. Still, it's ok, and it's a small price to pay for being able to "seal" the model with a laquer/Klear. Having said that, the more I see of it, I realise it's still a bit too dirty, and the metal effect has dulled with more sealer.

So I've finished some small painting here, and there, and I had some ok success converting my 2 tone flashes into 3. The rest of the news is...

Bad:

- Klear isn't a great sealer here...when masking off the dorsal fins to paint the edge, the tamiya tape pulled away the "no step" decals. I've since sealed it with Montana Gold Gloss Laquer, which I was reluctant to do, given it dulls down the finish, while adding too much shine. The matt simple made it dull...so I'll take the "shiney dull" as the lesser of two evils...

- The chrome I was using (Montana gold) was RUBBISH. I sprayed it 2 days ago, and it still wasn't dry...I found out by putting a huge thumb print in it. Soaked in thinner, sanded, re-primed, and I tried again with Humbrol Silver...it's not as good (ie shiny), but frankly it was at least usable!

- Decals; I don't know how, but after sealing them down, I noticed the front port side one was ripped! Gutted...no replacements either, but since I'll be ordering some new decals anyway (I need the numbers 9 & 0 in large and small font), it's at least saveable. That and some of my belly ones are squint - pure laziness/clumsiness on my behalf, I have to confess...

- I broke a rear tail fin. Nothing super glue wouldn't fix, but one to bear in mind.

- The Canopy refuses to slot into position cleanly. I'll need to be careful here, when I close it up permanently... Also had to re-spray the rear glass, as I'd not made the black thick enough for the decals.

Getting near the end. Stuff left to do:

- Glue the nose ring in place (it'll be a tigher fit that you see in the pics)

- replace blu-tac with glue on sticky-outy bits

- Chip and age the firestreaks. Somehow. Might practice on the other kit missiles first. They stick out like a sore thumb compared to the rest of the kit, which looks old enough to be about 2 days away from retirement...

- glue canopy

- touch up some rub & buff bits which have been rubbed off from holding (leading wing edges). Daylight helped find those...

- Add missing decals (numbers 9 & 0), and replace ripped pit side one.

- Port & starboard lights

Anyway, here we are. Experimenting with a different photo spot, to try and get a more natural light; brings out the metal finish better.

The dark section in the tailfin is due to the underlying plastic; not sure what I could have done to fix it, to be honest:

Yes, I know lightnings are supposed to have the anti-glare black curved over the nose-ring...but the pics I've got show the black run straight through the nose-ring. Handy, since I was dreading painting the curved one...

Spot my squint belly decals in this one:

And the well and truly knackered one in this one:

*** EDIT - Wife now in labour...may be a few days bfore this is finished! ***

Edited December 1, 2009 by silverburn

[crookedmouth]

I've had a few go like that. Fair to say though, even with the "disasters", it looks fine to me.

Hope the labour goes well!

[Mike]

Yup... good luck with the bay-bay, and hope the labour's not too long & painful

[Ajed1]

Ant wrote

Be careful with the new formula Klear - it's not the same as the old stuff, and from what I've read, is not as forgiving or easy to use. If you can, try to get hold of an old bottle. Some supermarkets still have it.

silverburn wrote

I've glued it all together, so that's it - we're committed to the finish now.

Oh, and I've given the "new Klear" a go...

I sampled it on one of the tanks, and did a conventional Laquer job on the other. They both knock back the "texture" of the buff, but the Klear retained a more accurate reflective surface, if you know what I mean. Both passed the "rubbing" test (did any R&B end up on my fingers afterwards), which I guess is the crucial bit. It's not perfect, but I think I'll be struggling to find the perfect product combination within my means and timescales.

So, the Klear is on. It was brushed on neat with a big brush; seemed ok. Laid it on quite generously, and cleaned off any drips. left to dry for 2 hours, and Decals started.

But then followed it up with this

Bad:

- Klear isn't a great sealer here...when masking off the dorsal fins to paint the edge, the tamiya tape pulled away the "no step" decals

Damn and blast -- The only Klear I managed to find and purchase was the new one -- so where does one get the old type from?

Does anyone sell it on line?

Hope the baby arrives swiftly and without any trouble silverburn.

Ajed1

Who Dares Wins