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Iain Ogilvie

1:350 HMS Hood

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Cheers Deacon - you can't see the glue smudge on the other side of the hull in those pix - easily fixed! ;)

Having read my Anatomy of the Ship book last night I know a new nautical term. Hawsers - them thingies where the anchors live!

Now - assume the tubes that form these are straight lines internally - no curved? I want to drill these out and provide the tubed hawser effect - any pointers appreciated.

<wanders off to trawl the Interweb>

Iain

Hi Iain The Hawser tubes would have been straight,as they would have housed the stock(?)of the anchor.

cheers phil

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Thanks Phil - helps hugely!

Have been fettling the hull today - decks now blended seamlessly with hull at the edges.

Cutting away the degausing cables as these will be replaced with photo-etch - not a slow job and I was trying to avoid damaging the gutters over the scuttles (or port holes) - trying to get terminology right!

I think I'm about to say 'sod it' and sand it all back - then find some way of re-instating those gutters.

re2005064.JPG

re2005065.JPG

Both images tacken one hand through magnifier - sorry about quality!

More soon...

Iain

Edited by Iain (32SIG)

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S*d it - have sanded all the detail off (except the watertight doors).

Cables are now ex-cables and the joint with the base plate filled so that I can sand smooth later in the week.

Iain

Edited by Iain (32SIG)

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Nope - but I have now - brilliant - much appreciated Phil :)

Last night I spent another hour, or so, prepping the hull. All degaussing cables gone, base plate faired in and the plating a little less prominent. More sanding - then those hawser tubes.

At the weekend I'll pick up some MDF for a base plinth and get the router out if the weather OK.

Iain

Edited by Iain (32SIG)

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OK - Colourcoats ordered - at least the colour will be right! Even managed to fight the urge to include the Combrig WW1 Tiger in the order :)

It's the weekend - off to fettle the Hull for an hour, or two. Aim to be ready to paint the hull next weekend.

Iain

Edited by Iain (32SIG)

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OK - this is where we are - and a question:

re2005069.JPG

Deck edges all flush and de-gausing cables gone. Base plate faired in.

re2005068.JPG

Now - anchor chain - worth removing moulded detail and using Lion Roar chain?

As I'm doing her at anchor I'll need a couple of lengths of chain externally anyway?

Would the ship use all anchors - or just two (one of the bow one's and the stern if in sheltered anchorage?

If so - any particular order?

re2005066.JPG

re2005067.JPG

More progress over weekend.

Iain

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Hi Iain,

When at anchor a ship will only have one down,also the vessel faces bow first to the incoming tide or current,when the tide changes the ship swings round to face the new direction,if she had two anchors down ,then she wouldn`t be able to do this.

Hope this helps

Cheers Phil

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I'd go for the LR chain and get rid of the moulded stuff. Real chain does make quite a difference. IMHO

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Problem is that all replacement chain has the wrong type of links. It always distracts from the final result IMHO.

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Fascinating stuff this, I have quite a few 1:350 ships up in the loft, bought them in anticipation of my retirement.

Cheers

Den

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Hi Denstore - that's my concern - am assuming the links should be closer to this - flatter oval with internal cross piece (although this one's a Kreigsmarine one - from Tirpitz)

p_tirpitz9.jpg

Is there anything aftermarket wise that's closer?

Going to be a bu**er to replicate :o

Iain

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I use 2mm black chain from Cornwall Model Boats. Ok the links aren't perfectly the correct shape, but I still feel they are better than the moulded chains, they certainly look ok on my Graff Spee. But hey, each to their own.

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I've found chain with the cross piece, but I think it is much to large for ships like Hood. The smallest I've found might be ok for behemoths like Yamato or Iowa. It's one of the things I really could pay a bit extra for.

Probably it is something that you either notice immediately or not at all....

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To imitate a chain I once used the following technique - I took two pieces of thin copper wire and twisted them together tightly. After that the resulting plait was gently flattened with a hammer - looks fine even in 700 scale

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Still pondering on chain.

In mean time I've started opening out the hawser tubes - with the aim of filling with Milliput and forming a tube in each.

My latest question though - White Ensign include hawser tube covers on the etch fret - would these have been used all the time? Would they all be in place at anchor?

re2005081.JPG

re2005082.JPG

Iain

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Cortecene and teak paints have arrived very promptly from WEM - and have tracked down some tins of AP 507B at Cammett - so hopefully have the main colours to hand by the weekend. :)

Iain

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Mutter, mutter, mutter...

Websites and stock levels. :angrysoapbox.sml:

The search for a tin, or two, of AP507B continues - firstly WEM website shows on-stock - but isn't - now repeated by Cammett. Just had my parcel arrive from them and my airbrush cleaners are present - but the paint 'out of stock'.

I think someone mentioned Dorking Models - will try and give them a call this arvo...

Iain

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I think I might have a spare tin of AP507B should you need it.

Also found these stud link chains at Cornwall Model Boats that seem to be pretty close to the battleship chains. HERE

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Thanks Shar2 - am a little way off paint at present - so going to keep trying :)

Chain - that's BRILLIANT - exactly what I was looking for! I'd even contemplated adding the central bars to standard chain - link by link - but suspect that would have driven me more crazy than I already am!

Will place order :)

Iain

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I have bought some of their chain, and in my opinion it's a bit to large to use with a ship like Hood. My guess is that at least 20 links per inch is needed to make it look in scale.

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Just been measuring - WEM etch gives 28 links/inch - kit 24 - so agreed denstore...

They do a 28 pitch chain that would need links squishing slightly and a cross bar added to each - I guess anything is doable??

Iain

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