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Glue Types & Applicators


FrankJ
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Glues
I use tamiya extra thin  and revell contacta also I make use of superglue.

I know tamiya e t melts plastic very quickly especially if the surface has been painted (Acrylics). It cheeses me off when I touch a tiny bit of plastic to hold rubber tubing in place. It just melted straight off ūüėĘ
The super glue brush tends to get messy and glue ends up where you don't want it.
What glues are you guys using? For example a instant super glue type with a neat applicator that can be applied with a single spot.

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I use The Glue Looper to apply CA. Multiple tip sizes are provided. They fit into a standard Exacto/Excel knife handle. Dribble some CA onto a scrap surface (I use a little bit of metal sheet, which can be cleaned), dip the loop into the CA and then apply to the model, Cleaning the applicator is readily done by burning the dried and hardened CA off with a small flame (I use our gas cooktop). I've seen other variations on this applicator theme.

 

You could also use a broken sewing needle eye. Hold the very tip of the eye in pliers and the rest of the needle with your hand in work gloves. Bend the needle and it should snap cleanly in the eye where it was held by the pliers. The resulting "Y" shape will also hold CA drops. You can mount the needle in a spare pin vise or stick it into a wooden dowel. IIRC, somebody sells a tool that appears to be little more than such a needle mounted in a handle. Clean dried CA as above.

 

I also use Tamiya Thin. Dragging the brush on the bottle edge removes excess glue, but it's still a broad tip. I haven't seen any real issues with that broad tip on with bare plastic--just don't touch the excess until thoroughly dry. If your paw does touch the plastic, leave it alone until it dries. You should be able to clean up most of the mess with a 6-cut file once it has thoroughly dried. I have also learned that if I accidentally dribble Tamiya Thin on plastic to just leave it alone. Once dry, it will disappear under primer and paint.

 

In any event, you might try a fine paint brush to apply Tamiya Thin with finer placement and control.

 

HTH

-- 

dnl

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I use Mek Pak which I find far superior to Tamiya extra thin.

 

Most plastic glueing is done with the thickest tube glue I can get, currently working my way through a 40 tube box of old Airfix polystyrene cement, a fine glue with some body to it unlike the currently available tube glues that are far too runny for my needs

 

Cyanoacrylate is the work of the devil and an adhesive abomination which I will not use. I use 5 minute epoxy for etch along with PVA wood glue. I also have UHU glue which is very useful and great for clear parts where Mek Pak is not appropriate such as landing/recognition lights.

 

For application I use old sable paint brushes, old airbrush needles, acupuncture needles and the ubiquitous cocktail sticks

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Hi, is it Frank?

 

I use exactly the same as you. Tamiya Extra Thin, Contacta (rarely gets used), thin CA, gel CA. I think the trick is how you apply it.

 

For CA, I squeeze a little out on a piece of glossy card cut from some disused packaging. I have plenty of these pre-cut cards on the work bench as I am always mixing CA/talc as a micro-filler and use my CA's regularly.  I apply the liquid CA with some 0.25 copper wire leaving the insulation on for a finger grip. Dip the wire into the small pool of CA and then apply where you want. Any build up of dried CA on the wire end I cut off. Sometimes I let the dried CA build a fraction if I want to hold a larger drop. I haven't found the need for a loop. Sometimes I just kink the end for larger volumes.  I use Loctite Super Attack "The Original". I really like its capillary action and lack of staining. Wicks in nicely. For gel CA I use a toothpick, sometimes sharpen the point, sometimes I also use a wire or a needle point. Currently using Loctite Super Attack "Power Flex" Gel.

 

CA Application

 

Often I will use a combination of Tamiya Extra Thin and CA. For example, the 1/48 Eduard Bf-110 has some very fine plastic undercarriage parts. I achieved initial hold with Gel CA then wicked in some Tamiya Extra Thin. 

 

If I am post gluing a painted piece with Tamiya Extra Thin I unload the Tamiya brush (as @dnl42 has said) to hold just enough and touch the joint. Let the capillary action do the rest. Usually this is all you need. I also always have a hairdryer at hand if I over do it and need to rapidly evaporate the excess. If your cap brush is too large use a fine paint brush. I am surprised by the lack of paint damage. I try to ensure there is limited paint on the joined surfaces.

 

General comment for CA and PE - always try to have the PE fully shaped for the location prior to fixing, seek to minimise tension and spring. 

 

If I have something fine that may get knocked or needs to take some tension I will usually drill and wire even tiniest pieces - good practice irrespective of the adhesive.

 

I will also use PVA glue for temporary holds such as canopy positioning for painting. Scary I know, but I use Tamiya Extra Thin and CA for fixing canopies.

 

I keep gravitating back to this core set of adhesives and they do the bulk of what I do - aircraft and AFV. Like many in the hobby I have a drawer full of other options sitting there partly used/unused. Yet, everyone has their own set of favourites that suits their technique. What you have does work for me.

 

Ray

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For superglues, I use a cut off sewing needle eye. It gives me a small vee that I can get a small drop of CA on. The needle is in an old pin vise. I just put a drop of CA on a broken Xacto blade and pick it up from there.

 

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27870158947_fd0e5bbe2d_b.jpg

 

 

For Tamiya Extra Thin, I use an old fine point sable brush to get small drops of cement onto/into the places I want it. I have a couple laying around to use after the bristles break or fall out.

 

 

 

 

Chris

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I apply ca (gorilla glue micro precise) with an acupuncture needle. It is possible to squeeze the bottle and bring the glue to the neck and pick up a small amount with the needle. Releasing the sides, allows the glue to withdraw into the bottle, minimising waste. 

 

I have been applying circles which are just over 1mm diameter using this method. 

 

Nigel 

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