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  1. Zetor 15 "Czechoslovak Tractor" (MV127) 1:72 Planet Models by Special Hobby Following WWII industrial plants worldwide turned in some cases to making civilian vehicles. The Zetor 15 was the first farm tractor to be produced at Zbrojovka plant in Brno after WW2. The Zetors were delivered both to civil users and the military, in Czechoslovakia and abroad as well. The Czechoslovak army for example used Zetor 15 tractors for towing the military aircraft such as the MiG15 on airfields. Amongst many unique features to be brought into tractor manufacturing they unitised parts across the range and introduced the first roll over protected cab for a tractor. The company is still in existence to this day and still making tractors after UTC Holding rescued the then failing State owned company from bankruptcy in 2002. The Kit This is a new tool kit for 2021 from Planet Models, part of the Special Hobby group of companies. It is a resin kit with a number of small parts which will need careful handling in their removal from the casting blocks. There is also a small PE Fret and a small decal sheet. A small length of wire (not included) will also be needed to finish the model. The main chassis is a single part to which the seat and controls are added along with the cooling fan on the front the exhaust. The engine cover/fuel and oil tanks is added to the radiator and all of this is added to the front of the tractor. The front steering axle is then built followed by the rear frame. The large rear mud guards go on and then the wheels. Markings There are two different styles of factory markings on the small decal sheet. Conclusion This will probably be used by most modellers for an aircraft diorama, but it will make a good stand alone build for anyone who likes tractors. Recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  2. Planet Models is to release 1/48th General Aircraft Hotspur glider kits. - ref. PLT211 - General Aircraft GAL-48 Hotspur Mk.II - released - link - ref. PLT213 - General Aircraft GAL-48B Twin Hotspur Mk.I Source: http://www.specialhobby.net/2017/04/plt211-gal-48-hotspur-mkii-plt213-gal.html V.P.
  3. 15cm TbtsK C/36 WWII German Destroyer Gun (MV125) 1:72 Planet Models by Special Hobby Battleships need guns to make them the offensive weapons that they are, and during rearmament, Germany was searching for a larger weapon for their torpedo boats and destroyers. The gun chosen was the 15 cm TbtsK naval gun, which was capable of lobbing a 100lb shell almost 24 miles at a medium elevation. It was a little too much for some existing ships, but when mounted in new builds it was a useful tool. The gun was typically mounted either singly or in pairs, the former being the C/36 that is the subject of this kit. The Kit This kit arrives in a white cardboard box with a large sticker showing off the subject from the front, and four smaller views with and without the splinter shroud below. Inside are three bags of parts and the instruction booklet. Two bags contain resin parts and the final bag holds the Photo-Etch (PE) sheet, with the turret shroud loose in the box, but protected by a number of packing peanuts. Construction begins with the breech, which is exceptionally well detailed, fitting a toothed wheel at the base, and then adding the working floor, aiming and elevation gear to the sides, and a set of two triangular supports for the foot-plates. The turret shroud has the majority of its apertures flashed over, and the trailing edge needs the moulding attachment points sanding away, after which the various doors and hatches are installed along with their supports, as seen below. The shroud is then slid over the innards and glued in place. The cylindrical base attaches to the underside, and the big barrel tube can then be super glued into the breech through the front to complete the job. A number of scrap diagrams show how the model should look once built, so you have one last chance to check your work before you get too far. The back two pages of the instructions are covered with adverts for recent releases, and the Life Raft sets that we also have in for review are amongst them, often being found lashed to the sides of the turret on the real thing. Conclusion There seems to be a rash of various turrets and suchlike from ships of various eras in various scales, and this one adds a slightly left of field option that is presented in serious detail. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  4. GAL.48 Hotspur Mk.II (211) 1:48 Planet Models by Special Hobby General Aircraft Limited were approached by the British government to create a new troop-carrying glider after the German Fallschirmjager’s successes with them in the early war. The Hotspur was the result, but it was soon realised that its 8 troop limit was insufficient for their needs going forward, and the initial Mark.I suffered from some teething troubles that were addressed by the more competent Mk.II after only 18 Mk.Is were made. Changes to the wing were made to improve flight characteristics, and the fuselage was stiffened to reduce the likelihood of it breaking up during a hard landing. Other improvements included a braking ‘chute that prevented it from careening through field and glen after its 91mph landing (a terrifying prospect if landing downhill), a better canopy for visibility, and side doors to aid fast deployment of the troops. Because of the type’s limitations however, the glider was generally used in training because of its forgiving handling characteristics that helped learner pilots, although it did have a high sink-rate that was either a boon or a curse, depending on whether anyone was shooting at you. In the run-up to D-Day, it was suggested that the gliders could be used to carry crew and equipment over to the makeshift RAF airfields in France, and Spitfire Mk.IXs were considered for the towing task. Experiments showed that it was just about practical, but the caveats were that the Spits had a habit of overheating due to the low speed, and would have been vulnerable to enemy fighters whilst towing at a stately 160mph maximum. Some bright spark even thought of increasing the passenger numbers by creating a twin-fuselage “Zwilling” with a straight 12ft centre wing section between the two fuselages. That one got as far as prototyping, but it would be an easy conversion if you had two kits to hand. once hostilities ceased, the Hotspur was retired rapidly as the training need had evaporated overnight, but fortunately a few airframes found their way to museums, where they remain today. The Kit This is a new tool resin kit from Special Hobby’s resin division, Planet Models. It has had a long gestation that has been further extended by the vagaries of the pandemic, but at last it is with us. It arrives in a small white box with a large sticker on the lid to tell us what’s inside. On opening the captive lid we find several heat-sealed and channelled bags within, containing all the resin parts, using trapped air to protect the parts, and the rest of the box filled with packing peanuts to further protect the contents. The largest parts are the fuselage halves and the two wings, followed by the elevator fins, and twenty-two smaller parts in the same grey resin on twelve casting blocks. Two vacform canopies, 13 clear resin window plugs, two white metal gear legs and a decal sheet round out the package, with the instruction booklet supplied on three sheets of A4 printed on both sides, and with colour profiles on the rear pages. Resin usually comes still attached to its pour block, which is where the liquid resin is poured into the mould as well as acting as an overflow, and as bubble-catcher for more rustic manufacturers that don’t have access to pressure casting methods. The blocks will have to be removed before you can assemble or paint the parts, so there will be a little extra time needed to prepare the model for construction. With resin, you should take the precaution of wearing a mask when cutting or sanding it, as the tiny particles are harmful to your health if breathed in. Washing the parts in warm water will also improve the adhesion of paint, as there may still be some moulding release agent on the parts when you receive them. Take care not to use water that is too hot, as this may cause deformation to more delicate parts, but this technique can conversely be used to fix warped parts, using cold water to “freeze” the changes in the shape. Construction begins with cleaning up the parts, such as the fuselage, which has a few areas where casting blocks have been, and clearing away any flash from the windows and join lines. After that, the cockpit is made up from a narrow floor with seats and twin control columns, the ribbed sides of the fuselages with additional bracing and equipment added, plus a twin frame that makes up the cockpit sills, to which two simple instrument panels are fitted, along with some dial decals to improve detail. The fuselage has a number of windows dotted around, and these are all clear resin parts that are inserted from inside, so they need fitting and sanding flush if necessary before you join the fuselage halves around the cockpit floor, then you add the sills in the opening and the canopy over the top of that. Many people are a bit phobic about vacform canopies, but with some blutak pushed inside it to hold it rigid and by using a sharp blade, they are relatively easy to cut out as long as you make regular light strokes. With the fuselage closed up, there is bound to be a little sanding and possibly some filling, so please remember the precautions mentioned above. The white metal landing gear has a tiny “spat” cover that plugs up the socket for the strut when it isn’t in use, but when fitted, it hangs over the front of the leg, which is outfitted with a pair of small resin wheels, with four supplied in total. The wings and elevators all fit using the traditional slot and tab method, and epoxy may be a slightly more forgiving option for these joints, as it gives you some curing time to ensure you get the correct dihedral on the main planes, and fit the elevators perpendicular to the tail fin. Once all those parts are cured and made good, you can fit the long skids into the holes under the fuselage. On my example those were a little obscured by flash and moulding debris, so if this happens to you, use the skid parts as a pattern if you’re having trouble finding some of them. That’s it! It was a simple glider, so it should be a simple kit. Nice though. Markings You get two decal options in the box, both of which are for training units. You can build one of the following from the box: BT551/L No.2 Glider Training Unit, Weston-on-the-Green, Oxfordshire, England, 1942 BT744/B1 No.1 Service Flying Training School, RAF Netheravon, England, 1942 The decals have good sharpness, register and colour density, although the yellow around the roundels do look like they could be a little translucent. There has been a lot of speculation about the colour schemes around the web, and that includes Britmodeller, so have a look at the thread [url= https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235019681-148-general-aircraft-gal-48-hotspur-mkii-gal-48b-twin-hotspur-mki-resin-kits-by-planet-models-hotspur-mkii-released/&do=findComment&comment=4108029]here[/url] to see what people have to say on the matter. Conclusion It’s been a long time coming, so troop glider fans will be very pleased that it has finally landed, and that it’s a 1:48 Hotspur. Detail is good, the resin is well-crafted, and once clean-up is completed, it should go together much like an injection moulded kit. Take care of the seams with super glue or epoxy, and make sure you have plenty of masking tape handy if you plan to depict the yellow/black striped decal option. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  5. Planet Models is to release 1/48th de Havilland DH.94 Moth Minor, tourer/trainer & coupe, resin kits. Source: https://www.specialhobby.net/2021/05/nova-stavebnice-serie-planet-models.html V.P.
  6. It seems I've been running my own private KUTA build for some reason, with the J-22 that stalled during the summer, the (also Swedish) Tunnan, and my long-standing Tactical Pod Regult builds all seeing some action over Christmas and the New Year. It's been nice doing some modelling again, but BOY have I gotten rusty! This is the excellent Planet Models 1:48 FFVS J-22A fighter, which most folks including me have probably never even heard of! It kind of looks like a Swedish take on the Fw.190 after a fashion. It's pretty much out of the box except for the gunsight, which was a bit simplified, and some struts to hold the canopy open. painted with Lifecolor, Mr Color, a bit of Alclad (mostly primers), some of the new AMMO Bare Metal series, and whatever else I could lay my hands on, Ultimate Washes, the superb AKAN Flat varnish, and some old Mig filters too on occasion. Thanks to @petr@SpecialHobby for the review sample, and to Sten from Flying Colours Aerodecals for the additional decals I needed. Pictures... here they are: Thanks for watching, and if you've enjoyed it, please remember to hit like and subscribe... oh hang on, that's YouTube You can find the Work in Progress (WIP) thread here if you're bored.
  7. I think I'm pretty lucky. I earned by glider and power pilot wings through the most excellent Royal Canadian Air Cadet program. Went on to get my commercial, multi-engine and instructors rating all before 20 years of age. I had two airline jobs lined up in 1981 but due to a recession at that time they never came to be. No worries, I ended up having a great career at Honda Canada, where I had multiple jobs that took me coast to coast and even to Japan. I have a terricfic wife and two grown successful sons. I retired at a not too old age some years ago and in 2018 I couldn't resist the "Flying Bug" anymore, renewed my license and joined a small flying museum 15 minutes from the house. Edenvale Classic Aircraft Foundation (www.classicaircraft.ca and on FaceBook) has a small group of volunteers and we look after a number of RCAF artifacts and four flying aircraft. We have a 1943 DH82a RAF Tiger Moth and a 1943 Fleet PT-26 Cornell both of which we use for public rides. We also have a 1947 (1963 rebuilt) Fleet Canuck and a 1947 Auster A.O.P. VII ex RCAF and these are used for pilot training. I am lucky enough to have flown them all and will be doing my check out on the Tiger Moth this summer. Lucky guy for sure! Any way this brings me to this subject, the 1/48 Planet Models Fairchild PT-26 Cornell. This is the only option (I believe) for a kit of our Cornell. I have decided to model it after our own since I have all the reference I need and I really want to have one on the shelf. I have a Silver Wings 1/32 Tiger Moth to do after that check out. The kit is resin and requires some skills to bring together. Typically the parts have a few issues such as slightly warped fuselage halves, some parts are a bit crude and details that do not match our aircraft. In addition to building with superglue I will be correcting some details and (gasp) scratchbuilding the two cockpit interiors. I have not done very much scratch work and this will push my comfort level. It will also give me practice for another Tiger Moth, this one a Matchbox, that I am building for one of our members who restored our museum Tiger. First off her is our handsome pilot and model builder with our Fleet PT-26 (Fleet built PT-26s under license in Fort Erie Ontario). She was RCAF FV720 built in late 1943, delivered to RCAF in Sept 1944 to No. 1 Air Traning Command in Brandon Manitoba, she was actually kept in Reserve and sold in 1946. More history is available if anyone wants to know. The kit in its flimsy box Which provided all of the parts safely EXCEPT for the one-piece wing which is no longer "at one with itself". Oh well it will be fixed. Here is a typical part, the right wing tip. Some flash but very few pinholes or short molds. Overall the quality of casting, outline and detail is very good. THE NOTCH in the wing tip is supposed to be there but it is a hand-hold and so I will need to add the outer portion, essentially a bar that continues the wing outline. Like this... Well time to start dry-fitting and see how it is going to come together. Thanks for looking.
  8. I really like these early Luftwaffe flying boats, so when this one appeared on evil bay I couldn't resist it. Really nicely moulded parts. Having never built a Planet kit before I'm looking forward to this one. Cheers Pat
  9. As promised in the build thread HERE A few more pictures of the complete model are provided: And, a comparison with it's rader-dome-nosed brethren: Except for the gnarly landing gear, this was a fun a fairly easy to build kit. I recommend Planet Models kits wholeheartedly, but some, like this one, have a few challenges. Thanks for looking, Ed
  10. Hello again. Due to impending holidays, chances of visitors, and general laziness, I have determined to try, at least for the rest of this year, to do some simple, quick to resolve models -- I hope! With that in mind, first up is the excellent Planet Models XF-91 Thundercepter V-Tail version. Having done the radome-equipped, standard tail version a few years ago, I felt this model would meet the criteria, and be another example of a resin model build to encourage others to take the plunge! The Thundercepter was designed with inverse taper wings, to help combat the early jet phenomena of "pitch-up". You can discover all that conversation elsewhere on-line, so I won't cover it here. A secondary reason for building this aircraft was to explore the use of dual engines-- a regular jet for normal cruise, and a rocket assist when high speed was needed. In the end, as jet aircraft engines progressed, this need was deemed unnecessary, as well as the logistics surrounding having to ship, store and load dual fuels for each aircraft. Thus only two aircraft were ever built, both being used for testing. I'd like to imagine that a lot of the research that led to our modern dual-tail aircraft was due to this V-Tailed aircraft. Anyway, the box looks like this: The aircraft itself has very few major parts, but there are a lot of small pieces for the landing gear retraction links, etc. I will not do a kit review here, as it has been done elsewhere on-line. The first step on most resin models is to complete the "innards" before closing the fuselage. In this case, the innards consist of one large cockpit/front gear well piece, the ejection seat and backrest, control sick and instrument panel with foot pedals. I glued them all together and painted them appropriately. Then the cockpit assembly was glued to the right fuse half with CA, followed by a liberal dose of 560 canopy cement, which is kind of like heavy duty white glue, for insurance. You may refer to several of my previous builds on this subject, so I won't rant here... Care must be taken to assure that the intake splitter is truly vertical, and that the landing gear well lines up with the front gear door opening. Then some weight is added under the cockpit area, using the afore-mentioned CA + extra glue method: Above right, sorry for the blurry photo. Next, despite sanding the fuse halves flat with sandpaper on a flat surface, some filling will be required along the fuselage seams, but not a lot: When all that sanding is sorted, the v-tail is next added, and some filling done there as well: Planet models has thoughtfully provided a dotted line molded into the aircraft on each side to show the center-line of the wing. This helps immensely when positioning the wings onto the fuselage eventually. But, I had learned from the earlier model that I'd built, that this was no picnic -- so I marked and drilled the wings and fuse, drilled tiny holes, and used short lengths of wire to correctly locate the wings later on. This serves two purposes; one, to allow me to paint the wing before assembly if desired, and two, the wing on the aircraft has variable incidence, so the seam from wing to fuse will not need to be filled, resulting in use of less cement, thus the wire will add a little additional support: Above right, the same procedure is used for the fuel tanks, as adding them later with only glue is a real bear, at least for me. The wire pins just make life a lot easier. Next, the vacuformed canopy is carefully cut out, and glued to the fuselage with G-S watch cement: My usual process is to smooth the excess watch cement with 91 percent alcohol, but for some reason, this time around, I could not see the clear glue well enough to see whether is was filling everything smoothly. So, above right, I taped off the glass area of the canopy, and added some 3M spot putty, just to make sure everything was going "smoothly". As I have stated before, I go to great lengths to prevent "steps" where jet canopies join a fuselage, unless the real aircraft also had them. Well, time for putty to dry, and for me to plot my next evil deed, so more next time. Ed
  11. Originally designed as a half scale model of a planned jet airliner it became apparent during the design phase that the layout was unsuitable and but it continued as research a/c for investigating the characteristics of swept wings. Three were built. The first used a Vampire front fuselage and was used for low speed research. It crashed after spinning at low altitude. The second was used for high speed work but crashed whist practising for an attempt on the world speed record. The third, modelled here, had a modified fuselage having a more pointed nose and a lowered, more streamlined, canopy. It first flew in July 1947 and in September 1948 became the first British a/c to exceed the speed of sound, although completely out of control at the time! It was passed to the RAE in November 1949 for further research but crashed in September 1950 for reasons unknown but believed to be pilot incapacitation due to lack of oxygen. I once heard Eric Brown describe it as the most dangerous aircraft that he had flown. This resin kit was produced by Planet models and went together fairly easily. There are three basic components, the upper and lower halves of the wing/fuselage and the rudder, all nicely moulded and free from pinholes. The most notable problem being the fit of the upper front fuselage – it doesn’t and requires filler to correct a large gap between the front portions ahead of the canopy. I realised later that I should have spent some time thinning the rear sections of the wing to produce a sharper trailing edge. The kit is supplied with two vacform canopies. Unfortunately there is a flaw in that the frame which runs down the centre of the forward section is not quite in the centre. I had to trim the top of the pilot's seat to stop it fouling the canopy.. Not a big deal as it is hardly visible. One final problem appeared whilst fitting the u/c. The a/c sits slightly nose up and the model does not. It is partly due to the mainwheels being oversize, compared to Barrie Hygates drawing, and something else which I could not work out. I ended up shortening the legs to get it to look right. In fact the original legs looked far too long to retract into the wells whereas the shorter legs look to be about the right length. The finish is Alclad Airframe Aluminium over gloss black enamel followed by a light coat of Alclad Aluminium to reduce the shine. John Whilst putting it in the display cabinet I was reminded that I had seen that wing planform before... I had always thought of the 108 as being small but, as a half-scale model of the proposed DH 106 it had a span of 39ft (about 12m) Compare it with its American equivalent the Northrop X-4
  12. Planet Models is to release a 1/48th resin kit of the CAC CA-25 Winjeel - ref. PLT259 In association with Red Roo Models - ref. RRK48002 About the Winjeel: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CAC_Winjeel Source: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234938325-148-plt259-cac-winjeel/ V.P.
  13. CAC CA-25 Winjeel (259) 1:48 Planet Models by Special Hobby Winjeel is the name for “young eagle” used in Victoria by the original Australians, and the aircraft was designed and build in the Commonwealth Aircraft Corporation in that area during the 1950s. It was designed as a trainer aircraft to fly in the Royal Australian Air Force (RAAF), replacing the previous Wirraway and Tiger Moths, although it required some redesign to make it a little less stable so that spin-recovery training could be undertaken. In an effort to phase out the prop trainers, the powers that be tried to replace it with an imported Macchi jet trainer, which failed and led to an extension of the Winjeel’s service life until the mid-70s with a few serving until the 90s as a Forward Air Controller (FAC) after which time it was replaced by the Pilatus PC-9 turbo-prop. The Kit This is a Planet Models reboxing of the 2016 resin kit by Red Roo with amended decals, and should give some relief to those that have been in the market for one. It arrives in a smallish top-opening box with the parts inside heat-sealed partitioned bags to reduce the chances of chaffing or breakage of the small parts during shipping or moving around once you own it. A few of the exhaust collector pipes had broken off in my sample, but these were easily glued back with small quantities of super glue There are three main bags of parts, with the larger fuselage and heavier full-span wings kept separate from the smaller parts for obvious reasons. The two vacformed canopies are again in another bag with the Photo-Etch (PE), a pre-printed acetate sheet, clear resin parts and white metal parts, plus of course the decal sheet. The instruction booklet is A5 and has colour profiles on the rear pages for painting and markings. Resin usually comes still attached to its pour block, which is where the liquid resin is poured into the mould and acts as an overflow and bubble-catcher for more rustic manufacturers that don’t have access to pressure casting methods. These will have to be removed before you can assemble or paint the parts, so there will be a little extra time needed to prepare the model for construction. With resin, you should take the precaution of wearing a mask when cutting or sanding it, as the tiny particles are harmful to your health if breathed in, which is the same with all small particles. Washing the parts in warm water will remove any sanding residue and also improve the adhesion of paint, as there may still be some mould release agent on the parts when you receive them. Take care not to use water that is too hot, as this may cause deformation to more delicate parts, and this technique can conversely be used to fix warped parts, followed by cold water to “freeze” the changes in the parts. Construction begins with the wings for a change, cutting out segments of the leading edge on each side to accommodate the clear landing lights, which you can drill out the back of to depict the lights inside. A number of small parts are fitted to the cockpit floor, which is also the top surface of the wing, then the fuselage halves are also detailed with resin and PE parts before it is closed up and mated with the wing in close succession. The elevators are placed on the flat at the rear of the fuselage with the tail fit inserted into the slot on the top, then there is a brief pause while the complete Pratt & Whitney R-985-AN-2 Wasp Junior nine-cylinder radial engine is made up around a central hub with separate cylinders, wiring loom, exhaust collector and an aft spacer part so that it sits correctly within the cowling. There are three seats within the cockpit, and they all have four-point seatbelts supplied on the PE fret, backed by a rectangular panel toward the rear of the cockpit, the majority of which is painted a bright grass green in some airframes. The front of the fuselage has two circular parts installed, followed by the engine and finally the cowling, which is cast as a single part with flashed-over cooling ports that will help show off your work on the engine when complete. The instrument panel is backed by a resin part, with a small lump on top that is only necessary for the FAC role, so should be removed if necessary for your choice of decal. There are two PE panels and acetate backers supplied, one for the trainer, the other for the FAC aircraft, so again choose your panel depending on your decal choice, or leave the resin panel and paint that if you prefer, and add the roll-over frame over the seats for those inevitable accidents. A tiny rudder actuator arm is fitted low-down on the fin and on all the trim-tabs, then four small clear resin lights are glued inside the cockpit, at the very tip of the tail and at each wingtip. Underneath the aircraft the white metal tail-wheel is installed in the rear, an intake and exhaust are glued under the nose with two PE parts joining them. The wheels are fixed, and the white metal struts are given PE scissor-links and brake lines, then glued to the underside of the wing into small depressions, adding wheels and pitot probe later. The canopy is vacform and beautifully clear as a result, doubled-up just in case you have an accident or want to cut it to open up the cockpit and make a slip-up. Careful cutting with some Blutak holding the canopy in shape, followed by careful sanding of the edges to ensure a good fit will see you with a spare to offer to others in the future if they have problems. The FAC version has a small aerial in front of the cockpit and blade antenna at the rear, plus a windscreen wiper and sensors in front of the windscreen, leaving just the two-blade prop to be slid into the bell-housing of the engine. Markings There are four markings options in the box, with four-view colour drawings of each option at the rear of the instruction booklet, allowing you to make one of the following: A85-404, No.1 Basic Flying Training School, RAAF Point Cook, 1964 A85-411, FAC Aircraft, No.76 Sqn. RAAF Williamtown, 1990 A85-415, FAC Aircraft, No.76 Sqn. RAAF Williamtown, 1990 A85-415, No.1 Basic Flying Training School, RAAF Point Cook, 1965 The decals are anonymously printed, but generally have good register, sharpness and colour density, except for a little bleed on one of the blue arrows, but that can easily be cut off before application. The glossy carrier film has been printed slightly high too, but it still covers the printed areas so shouldn’t be of issue. Conclusion A welcome re-release of a niche product made and flown by our Australian allies after WWII. Detail is good, casting blocks sensibly placed, and with the addition of PE, white metal, clear resin and two vacform canopies, that detail is improved even further. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  14. M1278 Heavy Guns Carrier "Joint Light Tactical Vehicle" (MV124) 1:72 Planet Models / CMK / Special Hobby It does not seem that long ago that the Jeep was replaced by the Humvee by the US Army, however that started to happened back in the 80s and now they are looking to partly replace these now, The Joint Light Tactical Vehicle or JLTV for short is a joint US Army/USMC programme to look at replacing some Humvees being used in the tactical role, something they were never designed for. Oshkosh was selected as the winner of the programme in 2015 with their L-ATV. These vehicles feature a high level of mobility and a much improved level of crew protection. The US Army & USMC have now declared initial operation capability with the vehicle with over 3000 on order, and planned up to 7000 for each service by 2023. The Army alone has plans to acquire 49000 over the lifetime of the programme across many variants such as weapons carriers, ambulances., recon vehicles and Command & Control vehicles. The US Air Force is also looking to procure this vehicle. To date there has been interest from the UK for over 2500 vehicles; and contracts placed from Lithuania, Slovenia and Montenegro. The Kit This is a new tool kit from Planet models under this brand from Special Hobby. The parts are all cast resin with the windows in clear resin. Smaller parts are provided on a PE fret. Additional parts are included in this kit for the Heavy Weapons Turret. The quality of the parts is all first class. There is the main chassis, main body, bonnet and rear body parts all as individual casts, the other main parts are the wheels. Ancillary parts are split between resin and PE depending on there size, plus for this boxing the heavy weapons turret. The vehicle appear quite detailed with a basic interior. Though in 1.72 you will not see much through the small windows (these are all clear resin and will need a polish to get the clarity up) . The instruction guide is not so much instructions but 4 exploded views showing where all the parts go. Given this and the small nature of some parts it is not recommended for the novice. CAD of this version from Special Hobby Markings No markings are provided in the kit. Conclusion It is good to see new kits of modern vehicles for the small scale modeller. Highly Recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  15. M1280 General Purpose "Joint Light Tactical Vehicle" (MV124) 1:72 Planet Models / Special Hobby It does not seem that long ago that the Jeep was replaced by the Humvee by the US Army, however that started to happened back in the 80s and now they are looking to partly replace these now, The Joint Light Tactical Vehicle or JLTV for short is a joint US Army/USMC programme to look at replacing some Humvees being used in the tactical role, something they were never designed for. Oshkosh was selected as the winner of the programme in 2015 with their L-ATV. These vehicles feature a high level of mobility and a much improved level of crew protection. The US Army & USMC have now declared initial operation capability with the vehicle with over 3000 on order, and planned up to 7000 for each service by 2023. The Army alone has plans to acquire 49000 over the lifetime of the programme across many variants such as weapons carriers, ambulances., recon vehicles and Command & Control vehicles. The US Air Force is also looking to procure this vehicle. To date there has been interest from the UK for over 2500 vehicles; and contracts placed from Lithuania, Slovenia and Montenegro. The Kit This is a new tool kit from Planet models under this brand from Special Hobby. The parts are all cast resin with the windows in clear resin. Smaller parts are provided on a PE fret. The quality of the parts is all first class. There is the main chassis, main body, bonnet and rear body parts all as individual casts, the other main parts are the wheels. Ancillary parts are split between resin and PE depending on there size. The vehicle appear quite detailed with a basic interior. Though in 1.72 you will not see much through the small windows. All the windows are cast resin which will need a polish to bring the clarity up. The instruction guide is not so much instructions but four exploded views showing where all the parts go. Given this and the small nature of some parts it is not recommended for the novice. Picture from Special Hobby Web site Markings No markings at all are provided in the kit, Conclusion It is good to see new kits of modern vehicles for the small scale modeller. Highly Recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  16. I built this Manchester MkI using various sources - the old-tool Airfix Lancaster, Planet Models as well as Paragon Designs. Decals came form the spares box. Regards, Rob
  17. Hi All, Not sure if I've followed formalities for a group build as I've never done one before but hopefully this thread will be allowed. After looking through the builds that are running, I thought I'd bight the bullet and build a subject that was in my float plane stash and start a subject that nobody else is covering. So, here I have my future build, a Saunders - Roe SR.A/1 Prototype Flying Boat Fighter. Some preamble: During the closing stages of WW2 the design of a jet-powered fighter flying-boat was conceived for use in the Pacific. Three prototypes were built and allocated serials TG 263, 267 and 271. The first flight was successfully made on 16th July 1947, the second and third machines were completed and joined the programme during 1948. Due to the lack of orders, the project was suspended but was revived for a short while after the outbreak of the Korean War but the increasing capability of land-based fighters forced the subjects cancellation. The aircraft made its final public appearance at the Festival of Britain by landing on the River Thames. Now the obligatory box shots Boxart. Fuselage sprue. Wing sprues. Other stuff. Decals look nice. Two vac-canopies, nice and clear. Instructions (side 1) containing some blurb, paint scheme and decal placement. Instructions (side 2) ... I've seen better. So their we have it. First job is to remove all the parts, clean it all up and pray . Also I'll need to find out the cockpit colour as nothing is mentioned about that. I plan to display the beastie on a sea base doing its stuff ,so I'll be putting test pilot 'Geoffrey Tyson' in the seat. Thanks for looking. Stuart
  18. Hiya Peeps, For those that don't know, the SR-A1 was a prototype flying boat fighter plane and was the first jet-propelled water based-aircraft in the world. The concept was a reaction to Japan's successful use of military floatplanes and the emergence of the turbojet engine. In 1947, the first prototype (TG263) made its maiden flight, with a further two built. Being outclassed by land-based fighters and lack of orders, the project was cancelled with the last flight in June 1951. Of the three that were built, two were lost due to accidents, one of them being flown by Eric Brown. Here I present my latest from the 'Flying Boats and Floatplanes' group build, a Saunders-Roe SR-A1 using the Planet Models resin kit. Built mainly OOB, with the exception of a scratch built cockpit and the addition of a scratch intake grill. Build here: Stuart
  19. I’m dragging three reluctant shelf queens along with the XIV in a race for quadruple Griffon engined glory! They’re all at the same stage and will get similar treatment (although the 46 will be clean as a whistle and semi-glossy), namely seal coat, filter, oil dots etc, before I move on to an FR. Mk 47. I love this (1996) kit!! first up - Planet Models Seafire f.mk 45 This was a pricey kit when I bought it (£45-odd iirc!) Must have been ten years ago, too - I remember warping the wings to the right angle and heating up a baby bottle for number 2 son in the warmer gizmo -worked a treat! That canopy masking’s been on there for a decade though. May have to re-glaze this one - but I can do that sort of thing these days, right? Of similar vintage, and inspired by Desmojen’s one on this very site, you’ve seen it all before, Mk 46. Bit more optimistic about the canopy mask on this one! I can’t help thinking the LM on the tail of this should have the black outline too. The hook wasn’t fitted to this plane. Number 3 - Contra-Prop Mk. 45 Aeroclub Mk 21 fuselage, Airfix 46 wings and prop. This mark was the longest of all of the Spitfire line - a two stage Griffon, contra-prop, broad rudder and hook, meant it was too long for the deck lifts on the Pretoria Castle, where Eric Brown did the deck landing trials. It still needed more rudder area as was unstable - it had sacrificed some area for the sting hook. Even with the contra-prop it was a bit of a pig to fly, so for the mk.46 the tail grew in height instead, borrowing the spiteful/seafang tail unit. What an awesome machine, I love it -Joe Smith and his team really knew how to wring out the spitfire airframe. You’d be pleased as these two if one was parked on your lawn, wouldn’t you? TTFN, Matt
  20. I bought this resin model from Ebay some years ago, it's an aeroplane that has interested me for sometime a 1930s design that lived on till the end of WW2. These aircraft used by the Luftwaffe for night harassment on the Eastern Front make a change from all the usual 109s and 190s I have built. Onto the kit all the basics are there in resin plus white metal undercarriage legs, injection moulded wing struts, vac formed windscreens and decal sheet. Unfortunately I should have checked the contents of the kit a little more carefully when I received it as some of the smaller detail parts were missing ( good old Ebay!!!!). I managed to get some reasonable idea of the layout of the cockpits from trawling the net. Incidentally it seems the French have an example of this aircraft preserved, it originally was liberated by the French Resistance! The kit detail in cockpits was basic 2 floors, 2 seats, crude instrument panels, two radio sets, moulded interior framework (removed) and a missing control column! I added as much detail as would be seen, the cockpit openings are not that large. Fuselage was glued together and sanded down. The wing was supplied in left and right halves which I joined using small metal tubes to add strength, the weight of the assembled wing meant that the interplane struts supplied in resin were not going to support it, they would have been better supplied in white metal. My solution for this was to fabricate struts in metal using some brass Strutz streamlined wire I've had for many years, this was quite a reasonable solution I'm pleased to say. The joining of wing to fuselage still caused me a lot of frustration and cussing but eventually came together quite well. I painted the wing and fuselage seperately also applying the decals before joining them together. I fabricated the exhausts using 2mm soldering wire as the exhausts supplied were not suitable for a night harassment aircraft. A note about the colour scheme and decals these came from an OWL decal sheet I bought after buying the kit, they were quite thick and a couple of the items broke apart when applying them however I managed to get them on successfully in the end! The aircraft is He46c of NSGr.1, Idriza airfield, Eastern Front early 1944. Not one of my best builds but I highly doubt we'll see an injection moulded kit of this aircraft, watch the Czech kit producers prove me wrong . It would be great to see some of these neglected second line aircraft in kit form (1/48 of course). Thanks for looking Cheers Andy
  21. This is my rendition of the Planet Models' Republic XF-91 Thunderceptor. This may look kind of generic at first glance but, a closer look will show it has reverse taper wings with both the chord and camber being larger at the tip then the root, with the wheels folding into the tips and a V tail (they called it a "butter fly" tail but to me it looks like donkey ears, so I'll go with V). This is my third Planet Models kit and while I was very happy with the first 2 this one was a bit of a disappointment. The castings looked very goo with no flash, but as soon as I started sanding I was in pin hole hell. The fuselage was also about a 1/2" (1.25cm) too long according to the drawings in the Ginter book and the length specification. I fixed this by removing a section just aft of the wings. Other dimensions were close enough for me not to worry about them. The decals were excellent. So on to the pictures: This is how much I had to remove Next up is an AP-2H gunship using the Hasegawa P2V-7 and the Blackbird conversion set. Enjoy.
  22. This is my 1/72 Planet Models Grumman XF10F-1 Jaguar. The Jaguar was the first attempt to build a practical swing wing fighter and while it was a good first try, wile most such things it was not a success. I used these 2 links, both members here, as inspiration http://tailhooktopics.blogspot.com/2012/06/xf10f-pictures.html and Including using the Obscureco F9F pather seat and cutting a hole in what would have been the wing butt joint and inserting the part of the wing that was to be cut off if the wings were to be mounted in the swept-forward position which is how I decided to display it. I would rate the Planet Models kit as above average for resin kits with nice molds, fit and very few pinholes. I also had the Anigrand kit, but compared to the drawing is the Ginter book it was way undersized so I didn't use it. The kit included 2 vacuformed canopies and since it usually takes my at least 2 tries to get a vac canopy right, that was a good thing. As it turned out I got it right on my first try. The decals were everything you could ask a decal to be. Very thin, but with enough body so the could be moved around and no silvering. So on to the pictures; These next 2 poses strike me as very bird like Next up will be the Hobbycraft F2h-3 Banshee. Enjoy.
  23. After the 1/72nd kit (http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234999169-172-miles-m35-libellula-resin-kit-by-planet-models-released), Planet Models is to release in 2018 a 1/48th Miles M.35 Libellula resin kit - ref. PLT?? Source: http://www.specialhobby.info/2017/02/plt267-miles-m35-libellula-in-172.html V.P.
  24. Ok the idea for this build is a bit of a mash up of a couple of builds I have wanted to do, but didn’t the time or the motivation for at the time. One has been running around in one form or another in my mind for quite a while now. I have come close a couple of times to starting it, (a Ho-229 was to be the base for one) and I sort of did with the Turbo-Prop Arado, but it still wasn’t quite what I had in mind. I have two similar projects on the go but they're on the back burner for a bit. The second was that I have a Planet Models Ju-388J nightfighter (Jumo 213 version) sitting in the stash that I have been dying to build and have never had the excuse to. So after seeing the Ju-88 STGB I finally had the idea of how to killer two birds with one stone and bring these two ideas together! So the plan is…… If the war had stretched into 1946 we would have seen some interesting aircraft and technologies in service, especially so with radar technology advancing as quick as is was. By the end of the war we were already seeing the next generation of radar systems which operated in the Centimetre band, like the RAF’s H2S and US H2X radars and the German FuG-240 (Berlin) & FuG-244 (Bremen) units. A few of the Ju-88’s were fitted with the FuG-240 and it was found they recovered their original speed which had been lost with the earlier radar units and their large antennas/antlers! It would have been only to be a matter of time before the use of the FuG-240 (and later versions) would have been more widespread, with it being fitted to newer aircraft models as they became available. With the venerable Ju-88 reaching it’s peak in the Ju-388 family this aircraft would have been a prime candidate for the new radar system. Well that’s the plan, chop the nose off a 388 and fit a new nose, simple really, but……….. I want it to be as believable as possible and not too whiffy which will make it a bit harder. So this will be the base, Planet Models Ju-388J-3 with Jumo 213 engines, of cause I reserve the right to add lots of other stuff as I go along, it wouldn’t a normal build if I didn’t throw in heaps of extras! The 388 is actually quite a nice model the only thing that may give me issues is the wings, they are very slightly warped and getting the dihedral right will be fun! The nose is just a resin cast of the long radome version, it looks a bit better in my opinion than the shorter version. Well best to start by cutting off the nose, luckily there is a very convenient panel line to follow for this. Strangely enough this happens to be almost perfectly round which will make life much easier as we go to fit the nose. Ok first fit, it doesn’t look all the great, I’ll need to move it forward a bit. That’s looking a bit better, so I’m going to have to add a bit to get the profiles right, I have a plan for that! First I’ll make a ring using plastic card, working with plastic will make this part so much easier! Next to fill the gap I’m going to use plastic strip like so. I just keep adding rings till I get the right diameter. Then add a disk at the back the size I require and the first part is done, only a small amount of filler required for shaping. Ignoring the joint gap for the moment I now have to decide how I want the new nose to sit, sort of inline with the horizontal axis or a bit dropped down? I like the inline one as it looks good, but I have to remember the flying attitude of the 388 (and 88 for that matter) was slightly nose up, they didn’t fly truly level! So I may need to have it slightly drooped down so the antenna face would be lined up to the vertical axis. Have a look at how the antennas were mounted on 88’s and you’ll see what I mean. Well I’ve made a start, there’s only a couple of hours work (I needed a brake from the Ta-152 as I was getting annoyed with it!) and the project is a goer. I’ve actually done the filling of the nose now as well and it’s looking good! This won’t be a full time project, just something to work on when my other builds frustrate me and I need a break from them. I can’t promise I’ll be finished by Xmas either as I’m bound to do other mods on this as I go along. This should be an interesting build!
  25. As soon as I'd finished reviewing this little resin gem from Planet Models, I couldn't resist the urge to build it, so I started preparing some parts for assembly, then painting. I'm building it as a bit of a sanity/mojo build, as I've not done a tap of modelling for a couple of months at least, and I was starting to forget how. I've not obsessed over detail too much, nor done much in the way of research. I've just pottered on regardless I got the cockpit base painted a couple of weeks ago, then had to take a break, but yesterday I took up my modelling tools again, and began detail painting of the 'pit, and some of the ancillaries such as the engine. The cockpit when finished slided inside th fuselage, so nothing much is seen of the area behind the X-shaped cross-braces, so I didn't even bother painting them... which makes the cockpit look a bit shabby now. Not my best work, but very little will be seen inside the fuselage, which suits me Yesterday I decided to close up the fuselage, which is sometimes a pause for thought with a resin model. I decided to use CA, as it gives an immediate bond that can be useful to work out the kinks of a potentially warped pair of fuselage parts. As it happens, these were pretty good, with just a small gap/misalignment between front and rear parts of the upper seam. I glued it in parts, using an old #11 blade to insert CA into the joints, starting with the top join forward of the canopy. Then the rear fuselage and tail were glued, being sure to get things lined up where it matters. The underside was done in the same manner, and before it was cured, I sanded any remaining gaps to choke up the small spaces with a mixture of resin dust and CA. A line of CA was then added to the top, and again, sanded while still fresh to get it all merged together. That all went surprisingly quickly, and a quick squirt of black primer showed just a few spots where there were flat-spots that needed rounding off. The wings were just push-fitted at this point, although the fit was very good, needing just a slight fettle before I could glue them in place. I had painted the two banks of pistons a generic metallic colour, and added the push-rods from short lengths of 0.5mm diameter styrene rod, which were painted black, then picked out in GW Chainmail along with the ring for contrast. I've got some tinned copper florists' wire in various diameters, and used the 0.3mm stuff to simulate the wiring harness, which isn't included in the kit. 14 lengths for the front bank, and another 14 for the rear bank, which although they looked nice & shiny (too shiny), were dulled down with a bit of matt varnish. I painted the bell-housing interior/exterior green as a best guess from some reference photos, and will pretty much leave it as is because so little will be seen that any weathering would probably go unseen Elevators were added, and these again fitted neatly, with different sized tabs & slots to ensure you get them in the right 'ole. I pushed the engine in place, and later had a quick go with the cowling on too, to give the full effect of the aircraft's shape (minus vacformed canopy at this stage). Very Fw.190 indeed. The white dot on the lip of the cowling is a piece of styrene rod glued into a solitary bubble that snuck through QC. It would have been invisible in the factory, so we'll let them off I'll be spraying a bit more black primer here & there to test seams & finishes, but at the moment there are a couple of pieces of clear acrylic sat in the notches I cut in the wing for the nav lights, as these were solid resin, so needed to go. Once cured, I'll sand them back to profile and polish them back to clarity, although I think they're usually coloured lenses. Tamiya clear red & green are already in the bulbs (a small drilled hole), so things should look ok with some more on the lens. Can I keep momentum up? Who knows, but I'm not starting anything else now until I have finished something. I have a PV-1 with Owl nightfighter conversion set that's asking me to build it at the moment, but whatever else comes along in the meantime might prove shinier I'm seriously tempted by the Fw.P.II that @petr@SpecialHobby kindly sent me too. Bless him!
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