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I’m excited to announce the start of this Zoukei-Mura F-4D 1/48 Phantom as part of a buddy build with some modelers on Instagram. I chose the ZKM Phantom after reading tons of great reviews. Along with the kit, I also have the following accessories: Quinta Studio 3D Interior decals Reskit AIM-9B Sidewinders Reskit AIM-7E Sparrows Reskit Exhaust Nozzle Reskit FOD set Mini Craft Collection M.B. Mk-H7 ejection seats I plan on doing the SEA camo pictured on the box art. Jumping straight into the build this weekend by painting up these fantastically detailed ejection seats from Mini Craft Collections: It was quite challenging painting the ejection handles in their yellow/black striping. I redid them about 4 times each and ended up just having to be satisfied enough with them not being super crisp. Once in the cockpit, it would be near impossible to really see how detailed those handles are without zooming in a great deal.

Horten Ho.229B (Superwings Series No.24) 1:32 Zoukei-Mura The Horten brothers were a pair of visionary siblings that designed a series of flying wing gliders in pre-WWII, during the period when Germany was prohibited by the terms of the Versailles Treaty from having an air force. Each design improved upon the last, and once the Luftwaffe broke cover in the Nazi regime’s expansionist phase before WWII, development began in earnest. The requirement in 1943 for a light bomber capable of the 3x1000 by the RLM, which was for an aircraft capable of carrying 1,000kg over 1,000km at 1,000kph set the wheels in motion that resulted in the Horten.IX, which is better known as the Ho.229, and is sometimes referred to as the Go.229 due to the fact that the Gothaer factory had been chosen for manufacturing of production examples. The flying wing had a low drag form, and the addition of two semi-embedded jet engines gave it the potential to fulfil the requirement, although it suffered a little from lateral instability due to its sleek shape. The first prototype flew un-powered and with fixed landing gear in 1944, with results that bore plenty of promise before crashing at the end of the flight due to a pilot error. Gotha altered the design in practical ways to ease production and increase longevity, as well as adding an ejector seat that was probably as much of a danger to the pilot as being shot down was. Another prototype was lost due to an engine fire, but this did not deter the RLM from striving to reach production, despite the worsening situation for Germany in Europe. A two-seat variant was considered for training and night fighter operations, but it never progressed further than a tubular framework rendering of the fuselage at the time the war ended, so details are limited and informed speculation plays a large part. The third prototype (V3) was an enlarged single-seater, and it was this that fell into the hands of the advancing US troops, and subsequently the Operation Paperclip team, who transported it to America with a host of other advanced designs that had been captured. It remains there to this day, in the restoration area of the Smithsonian's NASM, and you can see some stunning photos and interesting text on their mini-site. Hopefully one day we’ll see it restored, or at least see a replica that is true to the original design. The Kit It’s incredible to think that the original Ho.229A kit from Zoukei Mura (ZM) was released in 2014, and I’m still grateful that a pal of mine stood in to the queue at Scale Model World that year so I didn’t miss out while I was stuck queuing to get in. It’s eleven years since then, and much has happened in the modelling world and beyond, and yet here we are again with another 1:32 kit of the enigmatic and graceful Horten flying wing. This boxing includes all the parts of the original 2014 release, so from the box you can build either a single- or two-seater Ho.229 from the same box. That means that if you missed out on the original, you can remedy that without issue, other than wanting a second kit to build the unused option. The kit arrives in a similar-sized box that has the same footprint as the original, but is 2cm deeper to accommodate the additional sprues that have been added. The format is the same as the original, with a technical feel to the package that goes beyond a typical model kit and hints at model engineering, which is furthered by the skeletal internal structure that is typically present on ZM kits. The box art shows a two-seater night fighter in grey mottle fresh from a victory over a Lancaster bomber, the latter descending in flames as the Horten peels off to stalk its next target. Although this sort of incident would have been common in the skies of Germany toward the end of WWII, fortunately for the RAF and USAAF bomber crews, the 229 was too late to take part. Detail is exceptional as we expect from ZM, who specialise in making the modelling process a special event for anyone building their kits. The box is a top-opener, with a captive flap on the lower tray to further stiffen the box, and inside is a C-shaped divider that separates it into two identically-sized compartments that keep the sprues apart and prevents chaffing along with the individual clear film wrapping of the sprues. We mention this because many of the exterior skin parts are clear, that would be easily marred by poor packing and storage, so it is doubly important to keep everything crystal clear and undamaged, especially if you intend to depict your model with clear surfaces to show off the interior details. The instruction booklet is a weighty tome printed on heavy-stock matt paper with a red-brown theme reminiscent of primer red, and faux-official stamps giving the impression of authenticity to proceedings. There are ten clear sprues of varying sizes, which includes some stunning slide-moulded fairings for the nose and tail-nib, to single out just a few of the high points. There are also thirteen sprues in light grey styrene, most of which are half-box sized, and in a separate bag are two large decal sheets, one for each variant, and a sheet of pre-cut pale-green vinyl masks (not pictured). The final inclusion is a folded A3 sheet of glossy paper that has a full catalogue of their products printed in colour on both sides, covering both their 1:32 and 1:48 ranges. Construction begins with some choices, the largest of which is whether to build the original single-seat V3 variant, or the new two-seater B option, which is likely to be your first choice if you’ve got both variants, or have a thing for night fighters like I do. If you’re familiar with ZM instruction booklets, they can appear a little overwhelming on first look, but once you zoom in on each step, the complexity melts away and they’re very clear. They also give a lot of information to assist you with building and painting, there are names given to identify most major assemblies, and there are often photos of completed assemblies to help you get your model looking somewhere near to their example. The first few pages give background information on the type, then you must choose, with page numbers given to assist you with your chosen option throughout the build. If you’re prone to forgetting things like I often do, it may be sensible to put a line through any steps that aren’t required to help you focus. The build process begins unusually with the two Jumo 004 engines, which have a full suite of eight rows of compressor blades along the central shaft just like the real thing, trapping them, between the forward engine housing after adding the half-moon static blades within the shell first. Each pair is different, with much to be installed in strict order, and care will be imperative if you hope to install the turbine shaft, as the cut-outs in the static blades match the shape of the hubs. The intake bullet is a two-part assembly with the front compressor face added to the rear, which is then trapped between a pair of cowling parts split vertically, plus another pair split horizontally in front of those, forming the inner intake lip. The exhaust has two final phase rotors attached to a spacer, which is in turn glued to a set of stator blades, and finally the rear bullet is put in place. The engine shell is then completed by adding a ring to the back of the compressor phase, linking the exhaust assembly to the rear of the turbine shaft, and lastly enclosing the shaft and part of the exhaust assembly in more cowling that joins horizontally. The outer casing can then be painted up as per the photo instructions. A lot of ancillary equipment comes with a jet engine, and ZM have not skimped on parts here. There are a heap of parts utilised in completing the engine, and painting call-outs accompany them throughout. The final part of the first phase is to add the lower heat shields to the aft portion of the engine, which prevented the heat from damaging the combustible wooden skin. These are provided in crystal clear styrene, so that your work with the engines can be seen from the gear bays. As an option, you can cut some square sectioned parts from the sprue runners, and build them up into a trestle for one or both engines either to display them away from the aircraft, or to keep them safe while you finish off the build. An ingenious use of the otherwise wasted plastic of a sprue. Act two sees the building of the fuselage, which comprises a tubular framework that is very well depicted, starting with the longer two-seater variant. The lower frame is built up first after removing the foremost tubular-section, to act as the base on which the rest of the fuselage is built, and again you should paint this up as you go, due to the complexity of the finished article. The wing root formers are added to the extreme left & right of the fuselage frame, at which point it starts to look a bit like a Ho.229 for the first time. Various linkages and controls are added, reaching the forward fuselage to be integrated with the cockpit, which is built up later. The cannons and their ammunition feeds are added inboard of the wing joint, after which the engines are slotted into the lower fuselage assembly and held in place by the addition of the upper framework, so again – keep painting as you go along, or you'll regret it. Fitting this part properly is critical, and takes up two pages of the instructions, showing where it should locate several times from different angles. Another page is devoted to showing the finished article in picture form, which should give you the impression that if you err, you will struggle fitting the outer skin, so take care, test-fit and do it right the first time. The single-seater sees you skipping ahead to page 29 of the booklet, and whilst the majority of the process looks very similar to the new version, there are different parts, the section removed for the two-seater is left intact, and the guns aren’t fitted on this V3 prototype. The cockpit section helpfully shows a photo of both options one above the other, showing the differences clearly along with the pages that you will need to refer to when building you choice. The two-seater has the rudder bar split into separate L-shaped parts, adding the rudder pedals to the ends of the lower brackets, fitting each one to its respective side-console, which is further detailed by fixing instruments, levers and so forth, detail-painting it as you go. You have a choice of a styrene instrument panel or a clear part, using the same decal or decals either on the faces of the instruments, or on the backside of the clear part to give the impression of dials under glass. The two side walls with their consoles are brought together on either side of the new floor, trapping the panel in place, then installing the control column, and the two-part rear-seater’s console after detail-painting it and applying more dial decals. The completed assembly is shown being lowered into position in the fuselage from several views, carefully aligning the pins and receptacles that hold it in position. ZM took a view that the two-seat cockpit would be a more deliberate affair to separate the crew from the heat and noise of the engines and guns, hence the style of assembly, which is substantially different from the single-seat cockpit of the V3 that is a simple contraption suspended between the framework of the fuselage, followed by another page of photos of the built and painted cockpit in place. The fuselage is covered in translucent outer panels to the framework. You will need to decide what to do about them around this stage, and choose whether to model it with a "ghost" skin, partially paint it, or go the whole hog and paint it completely. Of course, you could also go the extra mile and depict your 229 unpainted using some wood effect decals where appropriate, or do it yourself with oil paints used to depict the grain. The nose cone for the V3 is a work of styrene art, having been slide-moulded as one piece that incorporates the nose, engine intakes, forward cockpit sills and the outer fuselage leading edge. The two-seat nose cone is necessarily longer, and has a pair of trunk extensions cemented behind the intakes, fixing a thick piece of clear glazing in front of the pilot to protect him from incoming rounds during combat. It has a two-part underside terminating in the pen-nib fairing at the rear, deciding whether to deploy the four spoilers by using their moulded-in actuators, or cutting them off to fit flush with the outer skin. Scrap diagrams help by showing correct alignment of both options, then the upper fuselage is applied over the top along with a pair of clear engine covers that can be glued down or left loose to show off the engines, and could be adapted with tiny magnets if you wanted to avoid losing them over time. For the single-seater, the lower fuselage skin is made up of three main parts, which fit onto attachment points moulded into the bottom of the fuselage framework, so care and careful gluing is the order of the day, especially if you are leaving any of the panels unpainted, fitting the airbrakes and their actuating rams in the same way as the 2-seat. The V3 upper fuselage comprises a single large upper piece and different crystal-clear engine cowlings that allow you to show off one or both of your engines in the same way as the 2-seater. As usual with the wings of a ZM kit, there is a simplified version of the internal structure in the shape of ribs and stringers that give the wing stiffness and allow the suspension of ancillary equipment within the framework, and they are the same for both options. The main internal structure is a single moulding, to which is added a more detailed inner end-profile. A set of four fuel tanks are added into the mid and leading edge of the inner two-thirds of each wing, and a single piece depicting the actuating mechanism for the outer flying surfaces. At this point you'd be forgiven for thinking that you should add the skin to the wing, but instead you attach the wing structure to the fuselage using a quartet of pegs for each one, each of which is moulded to a small square of outer-skin. A couple of small interior detail parts glue directly to the lower wing interior before it is added, and then you fit the top wing, encasing the innards forever. All the control surfaces are poseable, with elevons along the trailing edge, the inner sections of which also act as flaps. On the top and bottom surface of the wing tips are the drag rudders, a set of two-section spoilers than allow lateral direction change. Each one plugs into a slot in the top and underside of the wing skins, and can be posed closed by cutting off the actuators and gluing them flush with the outer skin. Several scrap diagrams are there to help you get them sitting correctly, as well as a couple of photos of the finished article in the deployed position. Finishing the model depends on which option you have chosen, differing substantially for the two-seat night fighter with its extended nose and radar. First are the common parts, starting with the nose gear bay doors that are fitted on either side of the bay, hanging vertically to the ground, followed by the main gear doors, both captive to the main strut, the upper door held away from the leg by a support jack, the correct angle shown in scrap diagrams. A pair of small inner doors separate the bays with one V-shaped part, and drag chute compartment doors behind the gear bay are fitted, adding an antenna to a hole in front of the main bays. Finishing the cockpit involves building a pair of ejection seats that both consist of the main seat-pan with a choice of moulded-in belts or bare, surrounded by a two-part frame and an optional head rest, noting the detail-painting instructions in a scrap diagram to the side. The pilot’s panel has a clear gunsight installed in a central slot, then the seats are fitted in the two compartments in preparation for adding the canopy, which is a large clear part with a separate framework underneath, posing it open or closed by reference to the scrap diagrams nearby. Wingtip lights are inserted in triangular cut-outs in the wings, adding a pitot probe to the port side, D/F loop on the spine, gun barrels outboard of the engine intakes, and a clear landing light on the nose gear leg. The last step is to add the delicate antennae for the Fug.220 Lichtenstein radar, which are provided as four complete parts that minimise alignment issues, although you are still given plenty of scrap diagrams to ensure everything is neat and tidy, one of which shows the painting and decaling of the integrated dipoles, some of which are covered in red/white stripes, with decals on their supports. The V3’s final assembly differs by making just one seat, with the same choice of moulded-in belts or not, and optional headrest. The canopy is smaller, and consists of a short curved clear part with the aft fairing and central frame glued to the rear, or a simple one-part clear option if you don’t like having to glue clear parts to styrene. Both options are mounted over the styrene frame, which has a guide added beneath, and the windscreen is glued in after adding the gunsight. The seat is installed, posing the canopy open or closed with the help of the nearby diagrams, then fitting wingtip lights, D/F loop, pitot probe and gun barrels as per the two-seat option. Markings There are two new decal options on the sheet for the new two-seater, and the original decals have been replicated for those that wish to build the original V3 airframe that adheres more closely to the reality of what was built during the last days of WWII. From the box you can build the following: Ho.229B Red 12 Ho.229B Red 8 Ho.229A-0, White 14, ISS I./JV44, German Mainland, Oct.1945 Ho.229A-0 JG.301 German Mainland, Sept.1945 The decals have been designed by Radu Brinzan for Zoukei Mura, and they are printed anonymously to the highest standard. Sharpness, colour density and registration are excellent, and the matt carrier film is cut close to the printed areas except where necessary to prevent them from folding up on themselves during application. Conclusion There was a time when dreaming about a 1:32 mainstream injection-moulded kit of the Ho.229 was considered unlikely to come true, but it did. Now the range has widened again with a two-seat variant that has been tooled to the same high standards as the original boxing from Zoukei-Mura. Coupled with the option of building the original V3 option from the same box, this represents an excellent option for the larger-scale modeller. Very highly recommended. Available soon from your favourite stockist of high quality model kits worldwide Review sample courtesy of

Zoukei-Mura is to release a 1/32nd Kawasaki Ki-100-I Otsu Type 5 kit - ref. Sources: https://twitter.com/volks_hobbydept/status/1507608459570991105 https://www.facebook.com/groups/215551215532252/posts/1442858899468138/ https://twitter.com/volks_hobbydept/status/1507608459570991105?fbclid=IwAR1jz8Q_ps8hS-FIPZQ1U5p2M2TcozieHicUYWnL5a5KM-ICYc60dQbsH7U V.P.

Zoukei Mura is developing a series of 1/32nd Focke-Wulf Fw.190A & Fw.190D kits. Source: https://www.facebook.com/cybermodeller?hc_location=timeline V.P.

Focke Wulf Fw.190A-4 (Superwings Series #22) 1:32 Zoukei-Mura Introduced in 1941 to combat the ever-improving Spitfire, the Fw.190 was intended to supplant the Bf.109 if it reached a plateau in development, or run alongside it as a stablemate if not. Its powerful twin-bank radial engine was installed with a close-fitting cowling and was initially equipped with an oversized, ducted prop-spinner to keep the engine cool, which was discarded early in development in favour of a fan that ran on the prop's drive-shaft to push air through over and between the cylinder heads, which also facilitated oil cooling. It was also given a wide-track landing gear that reduced the likelihood of a nose-over, a problem afflicting both the Bf.109 and Spitfire, due to their narrow track and poor forward visibility. When it first encountered Spitfires, it gave the RAF pilots a shock, as they were expecting 109s, not these agile new aircraft. It caused a frenzy of development at Supermarine, which was just part of the leapfrog game played by both sides throughout the conflict. The initial A-1 production version was equipped with a BMW 801 engine, and by the time the A-4 was signed off, it had two 7.92mm guns in the cowling, and a pair of 20mm MG151 cannons in the wing root, all of which were synchronised with the prop's motion, in turn mated to a more powerful version of the BMW engine. There were several equipment fits used in the many versions that gave the Würger (Shrike) additional weapons and capabilities, including a pressurised cockpit, rocket tubes and reconnaissance cameras. The A-4 was a natural progression of development that started reaching service in mid-1942, with a specification broadly similar to the A-3 that came before it, with similar mission-specific sub-variants and field modification packs available to it. Armament was extended by another pair of 20 mm MG FF/Ms just outboard of the landing gear bays, with barrels projecting from the leading-edges of the wings, and access for loading and maintenance from beneath. The A-4 was later replaced by the A-5 that had an extended nose that moved the centre of gravity forward to permit it to carry more munitions, followed in due course by the 6, 7 and A-8, which became the definitive variant of the A series. The Kit This is a new boxing of a 2023 tooling from Zoukei-Mura of this small-but-deadly WWII fighter, bringing their own inimitable style and level of detail to the subject in a stylish presentation. The kit arrives in a sturdy top-opening box with a painting of a winter camouflaged aircraft flying over broken cloud, shortly after ruining the day of a Sturmovik pilot that is wearing a confusingly similar camouflage scheme. There is very little room for air inside the box, as there are eleven sprues of grey styrene, a clear sprue, a sheet of pre-cut masking material for the canopy, a large sheet of decals, a thick instruction booklet that extends to seventy-six pages including the covers, which is printed in colour in a manner reminiscent to a maintenance manual of the era, with the headline text in German, accompanied by English and Japanese translations, while the instruction steps are in Japanese and English to cater for as much of the market as possible. Three additional sheets of folded A3 are printed on both sides on glossy paper, two of which cover the painting and decaling profiles, the other devoted to a catalogue of their other available kits for 2024. Detail is excellent, which is a foregone conclusion with Zoukei-Mura kits, offering more of a plastic-engineering experience than most other manufacturers, including much of the interior of the aircraft, from the engine compartment, weapons and landing gear bays, and interior of the wings that should result in a structurally strong model once completed, with the option of leaving some of the panels or parts off to portray the interior. The instruction booklet is also vastly different from the majority, as it includes pictures of the actual model parts after building and painting to assist with your travails and reduce the chances of a mistake by the modeller. It’s also nice to see the finished assemblies, as painted by a talented modeller, which may provide some extra information, as well as being an opportunity to point out detail-painting instructions with arrows leading to numbered paint bottles that cross-refer with a chart that gives Vallejo and Mr Color codes, as well as RLM codes where appropriate, and swatches of colour with generic names next to them for extra clarity. The instruction steps are more verbose than many too, offering bilingual tips and assistance, and pointing out the small overflow sprue gate elements that prevent short-shot parts, but will need removing during the build, marked in orange along with any sprue sections that are interior to the parts, such as the ribs and spars in the wings. Areas that require special attention and are important to the build are marked in orange with a box around them, or with a triple set of diverging lines (akin to a stylised explosion) that is commonly found on Gundam kit instructions, and is good to see on an aircraft model. All these extra hints and tips are in pursuit of the laudable goal of reducing the likelihood of mistakes, and should be taken into account whilst building your model. Staring at the page as a whole can on the face of it appear overwhelming, but when you focus on an instruction step in isolation, everything becomes clear and easily understood. The first few pages of the instructions detail the history of the aircraft, the engine and weaponry, with page numbers showing where each assembly can be found, showing the three decal options, and proffering advice to make your model more accurate. Construction begins with the engine, starting with a full page of pictures of the completed unit, then building the two banks of pistons from two halves each, noting that there are pistons and con-rods moulded into the interior, which although they won’t be seen once the model is complete, brought a smile to this reviewer’s face, and they will remain visible until the engine assembly is complete. Separate cylinder heads are fixed to the cylinder banks, fitting push-rods and intake ‘spider’ to the rear bank, both of which are keyed to prevent alignment errors. A single exhaust is attached to the lower side of the engine, fitting the rest in pairs or multiples around the rest of the lower side of the motor, then fixing the auxiliary package in the rear, followed by more exhausts around the upper half of the engine. The mounting ring attaches to the back of the assembly, and the instructions use the word “scooch”, which I’m unfamiliar with, unless it means “shuffle up”. Baffles are fitted between the cylinder heads, followed by the supercharger ducting, formed from two parts, one of which is a support, and performing the same task in mirror-image on the opposite side of the block. The bell-housing at the front of the engine has a wiring harness fitted around it, and the magneto is linked in above, adding the cooling fan to the front, then threading the prop shaft through the central hole, securing it in place with a cap at the rear without glue, taking care with any glue if you decide to use as a precaution. The front push-rods are installed first, with the engine in front, again handed to ease fitment. Returning to the rear, additional ancillary parts are fixed on tabs, their location clarified by scrap diagrams nearby, the same process applying to the next round of parts that include the oil filter, generator, fuel injection system and pump. The next step shows the engine stand that can be built from sections of the sprue to display the completed motor either temporarily or permanently, with a sprue diagram showing where to find them, and a diagram that illustrates the mounting points on the rear of the engine. We have marked them with a red tint on the main sprue diagrams for your ease. The cockpit is next, and by now the routine of a page of photos of the completed assembly before commencement has been established. The first step shows the delicate portions of the fuselage sides that should be treated with care, plus a few overflow gates that should be cut away. The floor is a single part that has vertical supports underneath, with detail on both sides, including the voids where the fuel tanks will be fitted later. Initially however, several holes are drilled out, using them immediately to install the battery and luggage bag, with the throttle and moulded-in linkage, plus the foot-tray further forward, and two scrap diagrams to the side that confirm locations from above and to the side. The lower portion of the instrument panel is detailed with levers and T-shaped handles, adding an auxiliary panel below in the centre, accompanied by more location diagrams, plus decaling diagrams for the instruments in that area. This is fitted into the front of the cockpit along with a pair of side-consoles, which have more decals, as does the rear bulkhead with deck behind it, checking the angle by offering up the fuselage sides as a jig and following the guides that suggest gluing locations. The pilot’s seat and control column are next, adding a decal to the column for extra detail, then installing the cockpit sill, which is a large tapering U-shaped part with a two-part control wheel on the right arm, sliding it into position from the rear, locating the open ends in cut-outs in the lower panel, taking note of the helpful diagram nearby, as usual. Another bulkhead is fitted to the rear of the cockpit floor, stabilising the deck and sills, and again there is copious assistance in achieving the best fit, followed by photos of the completed assembly after painting. You have two choices of methods for building for the upper instrument panel, the instructions for while proceed down either half of the page, applying paint and decals, either as two decals, or several after painting the entire clear panel, or by leaving the dial faces unpainted via masking, and applying two decals to the rear of the part so that they are aligned with the clear “holes”, and give a more realistic representation of dials behind glass. It is installed above the lower panel against the blank upper section, adding the FuG16 radio panel to the bulkhead at the rear of the assembly. The rudder pedals are attached to their actuators and are glued in place in the foot well after removing overflow gates and painting the assemblies appropriately. More scrap diagrams assist with both aspects of their completion. An elevator control linkage is threaded through from the rear, following the three-step instructions down the side of the page, plus the usual scrap diagrams to the other side. A similar process is carried out to fit the rudder linkages from the front to the rear, attaching one end to the rudder pedals, and routing the other end through a hole in the rear bulkhead, ably assisted by more diagrams. Beneath the rudder pedals are a pair of ammo boxes for the wing-root mounted MG151s, the single part topped by a feeder chute that heads in both directions, applying a stencil to the outer end of each box. Another bulkhead is mounted on the front of the floor section, bridging it above with the floor of the nose gun bay, which has a control linkage moulded-in that should be removed for one of the decal options that did not have this rod installed. You are advised to align these parts careful to avoid gaps or twists that might cause issues later. Finally, the two large fuel tanks are made from two halves each and installed under the cockpit floor, which must have worried the pilot whenever he thought about it. The bottom of the page is filled with drawings of the completed cockpit from different views, and across the page is a full sheet devoted to photos of the finished assembly. To begin assembly of the fuselage, you are entreated to test-fit the two fuselage halves to the cockpit before resorting to glue to ensure no issues are encountered when you do. The starboard half is glued first along with the floor, drilling two holes for antennae if they are appropriate for your chosen decal option. The rear of the fuselage is then filled with five sets of ribs, one having a small tray containing several air bottles, and another with the rudder’s bell-crank attached, while the master compass is glued to two slots between the stations on a short raised platform. The fuselage top is prepared with holes drilled if appropriate to your decal option, and one option has a FuG25 IFF box glued to one side at an angle to the vertical before it and the port fuselage side are glued to the rest of the assembly. The radio access hatch can be fixed closed by removing the top of the hinge, or it can be propped open by adding a short jack to the right-hand edge, and more diagrams assist with placement of parts. The tail wheel assembly is surprisingly large, extending through much of the tail fin when completed. Most of the strut is moulded as a single part with overflow gates that need removing, adding a stirrup to the lower end, and fitting the second leg of the yoke to trap the two-part tail-wheel in position. Two more tapering V-struts are slotted into the main leg at different angles, laying the entire assembly into the starboard tail part, preferably before the glue has fully cured to permit adjustment to the various angles. The leading edge of the tail fin is separate, and has the horizontal trim motor fitted under it before it is glued in place, to be joined by the port tail surface, attaching it to the back of the fuselage and fixing the two-part rudder to the rear. To complete the empennage, the elevator fins are each made from two parts and slot into the sides of the tail, fitting the flying surfaces behind them after gluing the two halves together. The triangular undercarriage access hatch on the port side of the fin is a separate part that can be fitted closed by removing the top of the hinge, or it can be posed open, using the hinge edge to glue it into position. It's time to put the wings on the Würger, first preparing the parts by drilling a hole for the pitot probe by temporarily taping the wing together, unless you feel confident to cut the plastic with the parts separated. The two extensive interior rib parts have several overflow gates and lengths of sprue within their borders, and these must be cut away before proceeding, dealing with the moulding seams if you intend to display any of the interior of the wings, in which case you will also need to paint the interior. The two interior ribs are mated with a detail spar that will form the rear wall of the gear bay, fitting several short rib sections along its length, and removing a small portion of the central rib if you are using the drop tank. The front of the main gear bay is formed by adding a large curved part to the front, which includes the dimpled roof sections near the centre, adding linkages to the rear, aided by more diagrams nearby, and plenty of pictures. The MG151s are installed in the wing root in three sections each, comprising the breech step-down ring and the barrel, setting them either side of the bulkhead in curved cut-outs, building the MG FFs for the outer wing stations with a choice of magazine types that are made from two parts, mounting them in their wing bays along with a compressed air bottle to operate them. The lower wing surfaces are glued under the ribbing, cutting out sprue sections from the open gun bay hatches, then gluing the upper wing halves into position, remembering to check that you have drilled out the pitot probe hole beforehand. Each aileron is made from two parts and inserted into their bays at the outer trailing edges of the wings, moving inboard to fit the flaps in retracted or deployed positions by utilising different parts for each option. Scrap diagrams show the correct angle of deployment, although a degree figure isn’t given. To mate the fuselage to the wings, rear root fairings are inserted into recesses at the rear, joining the two assemblies carefully to avoid damage to the delicate parts. The underside between the wings first has holes drilled and raised pins removed to fit the fuel tank, or it can be fitted as-is if you don’t intend to use the tank. More diagrams show the correct orientation and angle of the latest parts. Before mounting the engine, the ammo boxes for the cowling guns must be built, each one made from two parts, which are then glued to the bulkhead on two pins after painting them interior green, fitting the V-shaped cooling flap control rod for two decal options, plus a cockpit heater intake tube for all options. The engine is fitted with a zig-zag engine-bearer that locates on three points at the back of the engine, and on the bulkhead behind it on four points, creating triangular interstices between the tubular supports, and linking the cooling flap control rods at the bottom if they are fitted. Another page of pictures of the completed assembly follow, with the optional cooling flap control rods shown installed and absent. Two styles of exhaust shield panels are provided for the decal options, each having a different panels, with different slot layouts, and the choice of posing the larger slots open or closed by swapping the internal parts accordingly, while the option with smaller slots are fixed open. The lower cowling has bulged panels that cover the supercharger intake duct, and these are fitted to the cowling and wing root, supporting the circular oil tank at the front. The upper cowling with gun troughs and separate under-frame fits into a recess in the oil tank at the front, mounting the two MG17s and their ammo feeds on the floor of the bay installed earlier. The bay door is fixed over the guns, removing two small raised teardrop fairings from the sides for one decal option, which is best done before it is glued in place. The real aircraft has a hinge at the rear that allows it to prop against the canopy for maintenance of the weapons, but this isn’t offered as an option for this kit, although anyone with some spare glue can pose it open. The rest of the cowling parts can be posed open or closed, adding frames to the interiors if you are posing them open, with scrap diagrams showing the correct angle for the open option. The cowling lip is made from two parts, which are keyed to align them correctly, with an oil ring shield fitted for two decal options that has the location confirmed by a comprehensive set of drawings from multiple angles. Each wheel is made from two half tyres, fitting hub halves in the centre on each side, then mating them with the strut, which has a brake hose moulded-in, plus a link hose between it and the hub, and a two-part scissor-link behind. Several stencil decals are included to add extra realism, which includes an slip-indicator stripe for the tyres and their rim, which is always good to see. The completed struts are mounted on the front of the gear bay wall, as it is still exposed at this stage, adding a retraction jack and captive bay door to the outer side, repeating the process on the other leg in mirror image. The holes and corresponding pegs that locate the gear legs in position are keyed, and you are advised to leave the model inverted with supports under the wings to ensure that they legs stay in the correct position. Once the glue is fully cured the missing leading-edge segments of the wings close in the hinge-points and cover the wing guns, sliding them into position over the barrels, and adding undercarriage indicator pegs that project through the upper wing, which is best done after main painting, adding white stripes to the inner face of the red indicators. The inner bay doors are fitted on the centreline bulkhead, with actuators leading into the bay roof, and the option of posing them closed, which uses different actuator parts. The bottom of that page has a full set of diagrams that show the correct location and angle of the gear bays in relation to the thrust-line, which is 13° from the horizontal when the aircraft is on its wheels. The next stage is referred to as “Final Outfitting” in the instructions, starting with the propeller, which is moulded as a single well-detailed part that is sandwiched between the back-plate and spinner cap, with detailed painting instructions clustered around it on the page. Installation of the canopy begins with the windscreen, using water-based glue or gloss varnish to attach the armoured panel to the inside, first fitting the gunsight then the coaming to the front of the cut-out before gluing the screen in place with a suitable non-fogging glue, my favourite of which is GS-Hypo watch-crystal cement. The canopy has head armour fixed in two recesses in the frame, and this is supported by a cranked component that fits on the rear, locating in a hole in the top and another recess in the rear of the part, which is best done after painting is complete of the various components. To depict the canopy open or closed, two different clear parts are included, which caters for the tapering fuselage, and requires a different head armour part because of this. The real canopy was hinged at the top to achieve this trick, so it’s not just a case of a model company changing things to make their life easier, which is impressive devotion to accuracy. There are more bays to pose open or closed in the following steps, starting with the wing root gun bays, using the same parts for each option, and using a dog-leg support for the open option to obtain the correct angle. The underwing panels that allow access to the wing guns also use the same parts, allowing gravity to hold the doors at the correct angle for the open option. A long pitot probe is inserted into the hole drilled earlier in the starboard leading-edge of the wing, adding a pair of clear lights to the wingtips, and another in the rudder, then mounting an aerial under the belly, which hangs vertically from the fuselage, appearing to point slightly forward when on the ground. The crew step is a long U-shaped part that is either inserted unaltered into the holes under the cockpit, or shortened before insertion to protrude the correct distance for each option, fitting a cover for the drop-tank attachment ring if you are not using it. To install the fuel tank, the forward section of the pylon is made from four parts that includes anti-sway braces, adding a fairing to the rear as it is mounted under the belly, with another fairing between it, then fixing the two-part tank in position, noting the various stencils that are applied to it and the pylon. Markings There are three decal options on the sheet, two representing one aircraft in summer and winter camouflage, the third with a chequerboard cowling. From the box you can build one of the following: Decals are by Cartograf, which is a guarantee of good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin gloss carrier film cut close to the printed areas. Masks A sheet of pale green vinyl that has been pre-cut to match the shape of the canopy, with compound curved handled by using frame hugging masks, while the highly curved gaps are in-filled with either liquid mask or kabuki tape, masking the interior with tape to prevent overspray. Conclusion The Würger is a dynamic aircraft, and Zoukei-Mura have captured that essence in 1:32, with massive amounts of detail, which more closely resembles a learning experience than making a model kit. Writing this review has enlightened me as to the function of some parts of the Fw.190 I had previously wondered about, and the moment where I spotted the cylinders within the engine brought a smile to my face, as already mentioned. The kit has been engineered with care and attention to detail that is seldom seen in any scale, with three decal options and masks to help you build as best as you can. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of

Source: https://www.zoukeimura.co.jp/sentiment/oyajiblog_134.html Zoukei-Mura 1/32nd projects for the coming years. Guess the types. P-51A/B Mustang or A-36 Apache and T-28 Trojan? V.P.

#2/2018 Zoukei-Mura kit, painted with Gunze and Tamiya acrylics My dad thought it would be a shame to hide all the nice detail, so he decided to keep it naked and show a fictious not yet finished prototype. Besides that, the fit of the panels isn´t so good. Gonna do a clothed one with the old Dragon kit in the nearer future. Build thread here DSC_0001 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0002 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0003 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0004 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0005 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0006 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0007 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0008 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0009 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0010 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0011 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0012 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0013 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0014 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0015 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0016 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0017 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0018 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0019 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0021 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr

Figured I might as well start a thread to commit to a start of a build. What am I going to build...good question. Might as well throw my musings here instead of cluttering up the chat thread...and give you all a place to ridicule me. I've definitely got too many options...and the base kit for the HAF AUP conversion showed up today as well (still waiting for release of the conversion kit, so that one is out of the running). Leading pack...4 schemes, 3 types, 3 kits, 3 manufacturers, and 3 countries. Lots of diversity. And yes, I would love to build them all.....but sadly I will not even remotely come close to having time to build them all. I've got a few days before I have to have my decision finalized, as I want to get the F-16s & F-100 off the bench first. I'll probably end up making sure I get any paints I need ordered this weekend so I'll be in a position to jump on any of these. Anyways, onto the contenders..... Option #1: JASDF F-EJ Kai - Oceanic Camo (8 Sqn) - Zoukei Mura Pros: Lovely scheme, and very unique. Modern kit. Excellent detail out of the box. Good chance it needs nothing...even the seats are pretty nice, A/A weapons. Decent size box, free up stash space for the E that arrived today. Cons: Stencils...lots of them. No A/G ordinance (though not a huge concern as this is planned to be built as a CAP bird for an anti-ship equipped F-2). Option #2: USN F-4J - Experimental Scheme (VF-194) - Eduard/Academy Pros: Cool, unique scheme (cross between Norm81 & Ferris). Modern kit. Very good detail out of the box. Eduard boxing comes w/ resin cans, seats & wheels (kit cans are pretty nice, would save to update another kit). Huge box, would free up the most stash space. Good mix of A/A & basic A/G weapons. No stencils! Cons: Detail not quite to Z-M level. A/G weapons are only plain jane Mk.82. Option #3: USN F-4J - Vandy-1 (VX-1) Pros: Classic scheme. Modern kit. Very good detail out of the box. Resin cans, seats & wheels. Huge box to free up maximum stash space. Minimal stencils. Single color, less time in paint. Cons: Detail not quite Z-M level (especially in the wheel wells). Need to do a bit more research on this scheme. If it has white stencils, I will need to track them down. Stencils (or new sheet w/ markings & stencils) needed. Despite single color finish, probably going to be the most difficult to have an "interesting" finish. Option #4: Luftwaffe F-4F (???) Pros: Cool scheme. Who doesn't love European F-4s? Nostalgia factor. Minimal stencils. Cons: Ok detail, would probably be looking at seats & cans...maybe Eduard/Quinta cockpit panels? Need to research if more stencils are needed, will need to acquire if so (box decals are old, so may be sound to source new stencils anyways). Largest number of exterior colors required (5). Raised panel lines on horizontal stabs & pylons (minimal rescribing). Sounds like there would be no reason to go with this kit, right? But nostalgia weighs in heavily, and even if I were to purchase cans & seats, with what I picked this kit up for at a show a couple years ago, it's still half the cost of the modern releases. Feel free to pitch in your likes and opinions...I'll make sure to take none of them into account.

Source: http://www.zoukeimura.co.jp/en/sentiment/oyajiblog_088.html The already announced as "in development" 1/32nd Fw.190A and 190D? http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234965337-132-focke-wulf-fw190a-345678-d-9-by-zoukei-mura-in-development Wait and see. Update 05/11/2016: The first of the new 1/32nd models to be announced at Telford SMW 2016 is a Henschel HS 129 see herebelow The second one is a 1/32nd Kawasaki Ki-45 Toryu "Nick" see thread: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235011594-132-kawasaki-ki-45-toryu-nick-by-zoukei-mura-release-in-2017/ V.P.

…and we’re off and running for the NY….gosh where did the last one go! So to start the modelling year off with a real bang the newest and most gorgeous addition to the stash, the Zoukei-Mura F-4E Phantom. An RAAF F-4E has always been on the build list but this new ZM model made it a no brainer and a must build. I’ve been so looking forward to building this model (and its release), some much so I have another 5 of the long nose Phantoms on the must buy list. The RAAF had 24 F-4E Phantoms that were introduced into survive due to delays in the F-111C production. We had them for only around 3 years, these aircraft were fresh off the production line and most were converted to F-4G Wild Weasel aircraft on their return to the USAF, unfortunately one was lost in RAAF service. So this is the beast, ZM's early model F-4E….. ………. and she’s still in her plastic untouched by human/ape hands! Sprue shots will follow. For the scheme, being an Ex-6 Sqn person, it had to be a 6 Sqn aircraft, but marking wish you can’t tell the 2 squadrons (1 & 6) apart. The decals are from an Australian firm Hawkeye Models and are really nice. ..and that’s it for AM bits, so for the moment it’s an OOB…….. gosh how will I survive!!

Due to complications with my move I will be stuck in my current location for the winter so looks like i'll be back at it for the meantime. My next kit will be this ridiculously detailed kit from Zoukei-Mura, their 1/48 scale Focke Wulf Ta 152. I have been modelling for about 13 years and amazingly I had never heard of these guys until recently and now I eagerly await what else they will make in 48 scale in the future. If you've ever built any Zoukei-Mura aircraft please feel free to share your experiences.

Source: http://scalemodels.r...Phantom-II.html Zoukeï-Mura is working on a new 1/48th (and not 1/32nd) McDD F-4C Phantom II kit (Academy too...). More info at Telford? Source http://www.zoukeimur...tml#Ipms1211Lst And have a look on the desk. A 1/32nd low back Griffon Spitfire? V.P.

Hi all, I'm now able to show you the Zoukei-Mura 1/32 Ki-45 Toryu I recently built completely out-of-the-box for AMW magazine. It was painted in Tamiya acrylics and Mr Color lacquers were used for the freehanded reticulated camo pattern. First, a few walk around shots... ...followed by a few flyaround shots from the magazine article, some showing the cowlings removed... ...and a few in-progress shots showing the internal detail which in most cases is now hidden away forever... Cheers, Dean

Now that my 1:48 Hasegawa is well underway and approaching the final paint stage (primer is on, preparing the front cowling and spinner to have their colors), and I enjoyed this kit so much, I decided to add a larger scale Pony to my collection: the 1:32 Zoukei-Mura P51-D . An awesome kit with full interior. It really screams to be build. Ordered extra wheels, barrels and seatbelts. There are other sets available, but these together will more than double the kit price, so I will mak do with what is in the box and the 3 add ons. I hope I can finish it before the group build ends... Oh well, I'll see.

After the success of its 1/32nd and 1/48th kits, Zoukei-Mura is working on a 1/72nd Horten Ho.229 kit - ref. 72-01 Release is expected in late 2017. Source: http://www.zoukeimura.co.jp/en/sentiment/oyajiblog_093.html V.P.

Hallo again This will be my fourth Phantom in 1/48 scale. The S version. My first one of the US Navy and even my last one. The next will be a RF-4E from the IAF. This a/c will be from VF-151. It will be in grey (4 different tones). To achieve a good effect, I will use a basic black paint, with lightning the panel center. In addition, to get repair panels in different pre-shades. The externals I reduce to the centerline tank only, to show this interesting wing! Here I use (not correct) the left over brasin seat from the USAF. I hope to get it that way that the differences will not be shown. The oxygen gauge at the seat cushion I will cover with the harness. In the kit, the floor is very difficult designed for the uniform plastic ejection seat (the same at all versions!). This understructure I had to remove for the brasin seat. I wanted to use etched parts, but I lose all the 3D effect. Not at all! I will paint it. Well, so let us see, what it will look like. Until next time. Happy modelling

1/32nd Dornier Do.335 Pfeil by ZM in Super Wing Series - ref. SWS09. Box art was on display at SMW2013. Source: http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=46530&page=15 Don't forget there's another 1/32nd Pfeil kit coming from HK: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234945466-132nd-dornier-do335a-0-pfeil-by-hk-models-release-1q-2014 ZM old man blog. Scroll down "Research at the Smithsonian" http://www.zoukeimura.co.jp/en/sentiment/oyajiblog_046.html V.P.

HI, Finally getting caught up with my to do list and wanted to get the completed build posted here. The kit was sent to me by ZM prior to the US NATS for a build and it is a fantastic kit. Alll but a couple of the F-4S mods were added to the J kit to make the new Phantom mark. The big change is an entirely new wing that is set up for not only the slats, but includes the belly strap and strengthening plates that the "S" carried. The even got the outer slat shape correct where as others have simply used the USAF profile slat. The other detail they got right is the inner slat lip that extends past the bottom of the wing when retracted. A neat feature is that the slats come in the extended position and ZM included parts to position the elevator and extend the nose gear to make a carrier launch scene if desired. For those wanting retracted slats that are the std position for resting aircraft, you simply remove the linkages from the appropriate parts, attache the inner slat, to the wing, and position the outer slats accordingly. I used the some photo etch parts and did some scratch building. F-4S VF-301 MIG Killer in Ferris Colors Accessories Used: Eduard PE Sets Master Models Metal Pitot tubes and AOA Sensor HWG Seat Belts Scratch Built items are: Main Gear retraction rods and small door linkages Slatted Elevator space opened up Scratch built Canopy sills, Breaker bar, and details Cockpit Side Sills modeling the Canopy Locking linkages Pilot Landing gear position lever and Tail Hook Lever Seat Ejection Pull Loops Detailed Exhaust Nozzles Sparrow Missile guidance sensor added to right nose under AC Intake Vents under rear fuselage opened and Drain added Here is the build link to see what was done: Now for the pics: Thx,

HI everyone, I am please to post my completed F-4S build. This is the new Zoukei-Mura kit and it is outstanding. I did a build thread here on ARC for those who want to see how it goes together. This is the 4th ZM Phantom I have built. Here is the link to the build thread: Thanks for looking.

Hi, Just finished this F-4B in VF-51 Screaming Eagles CAG Colors. This jet Killed one MIG and displayed the 4 MIG kills the squadron scored on its last Vietnam cruise. The kit is the new Zoukei-Mura F-4J kit with the following additions: Accessories used: Eduard Brassin F-4B wheels Master Metal Pitot tubes and AOA Sensor Eduard Brassin Seats w/ PE Furball Decals - They Fit Perfect! Scratch Built items are: Chin Pod Fin Cap Thin wing including the wheel well and speed brakes Non-Slatted Plain Elevator F-4B WSO left side panel F-4B WSO Upper and Mid forward Instrument Panel Scratch built Canopy sills, Breaker bar Short Exhaust Nozzle, Trim, Exhaust tube, and burner assembly Intake fans. (The Kit supplied full engines were not used)

North American P-51D/K/Mk.IV Zoukei-Mura 1/32 History Whilst the earlier versions of the Mustang are well known, it is the P-51D/K with its bubble-top canopy was perhaps the most recognised and most well known version of the P-51 family. It was also the most widely used variant of the Mustang, with a grand total of 8102 machines of this type being produced. One of the problems encountered with the Merlin-powered P-51B/C was the poor view from the cockpit, particular towards the rear. The "Malcolm hood" fitted to the P-51B/C was an early attempt to correct this deficiency. However, a more lasting solution was sought. In January of 1943, Col Mark Bradley had been sent to England, and while there he saw how the newly-invented "bubble" or "teardrop" canopy had given Spitfire and Typhoon pilots unobstructed 360-degree vision. He returned to Wright Field in June, and immediately began exploring the possibility of putting bubble canopies on USAAF fighters. Republic Aviation put a bubble canopy on the P-47D Thunderbolt in record time, and Bradley flew it to Inglewood to show it to James H. Kindelberger, the President and General Manager of North American Aviation. Following discussions with the British and after examination of the clear-blown "teardrop" canopies of later Spitfires and Typhoons, North American Aviation secured an agreement with the Army to test a similar canopy on a Mustang in order to improve the pilot's view from the cockpit. A P-51B was selected to be modified as the test aircraft for the new all-round bubble canopy. The aircraft was redesignated XP-51D. The new bubble-shaped hood gave almost completely unobstructed vision around 360 degrees with virtually no distortion. The large rear section did not reach its point of maximum height until a point well aft of the pilot's head was reached, since wind tunnel testing showed that this shape was found to offer the best combination of viewing angles and minimum aerodynamic drag. The Plexiglas of the hood was mounted in rubber in a metal frame, the sill around the bottom being very deep. This was needed to provide the strength and rigidity required to avoid distortion and to prevent the binding or jamming of the canopy in the fuselage rails while it was being opened and closed. There were three rails, one along each side of the cockpit and one along the upper centreline of the rear fuselage. The canopy was manually opened and closed by a handle crank operated by the pilot. In order to accommodate the new all-round vision hood, the rear fuselage of the Mustang had to be extensively cut down. However, the amount of retooling needed to accomplish this was not extensive, and very little re-stressing of the fuselage structure was necessary. The newly-modified XP-51D took off on its first flight at Inglewood on November 17, 1943, test pilot Bob Chilton at the controls. One of the shortcomings of the P-51B was its limited firepower of only four machine guns. In addition, the guns in each wing were tilted over at quite sharp angles, requiring a sharp kink in the ammunition belt feeds and resulting in frequent gun jams. NAA took the opportunity afforded by the introduction of the new Mustang to correct this problem. The gun installation was completely redesigned, and the result was the installation of three MG53-2 0.50-inch machine guns in each wing, all of them mounted upright and all fed by ammunition belts. The inboard guns each had 400 rpg, and the others each had 270 rpg. However, Mustang users had the options of removing two of the guns and having just four, with 400 rounds each, and some pilots did actually select this option. Another visible change introduced by the P-51D was in the increase of the wing root chord. The main landing gear was strengthened in order to accommodate the additional weight, but the wheels maintained the same diameter of 27 inches. However, the wheel bays and doors were modified and the "kink" in the wing leading edge, barely seen in earlier marks, was made much more pronounced. Four P-51D-1-NA Mustangs had been completed with the original B-type canopy before the first P-51D-5-NA model (company designation NA-109) rolled off the production line. There were previously known problems with the installation of the 85-gallon tank in the rear fuselage of the P-51B and its adverse effects on the directional stability. With the P-51D these problems were exacerbated, due to the fact that the cutting down of the top line of the rear fuselage caused a lot of keel area to be lost. In order to provide for better directional stability, a dorsal fin was added ahead of the rudder during the production run of the P-51D Block 10. Some of the earlier P-51Ds (plus a few P-51Bs) were retrofitted with this dorsal fin. The extra weight and drag caused by this fin was quite small, but it helped a lot in improving the directional stability, especially when the rear fuselage fuel tank was full. The P-51D/K introduced the K-14 computing gyro gunsight, based on a British (Ferranti) design. When it first appeared, it was considered almost miraculous. The pilot needed only to dial in the wingspan of the enemy aircraft he was chasing and then feed in the target range by turning a handgrip on the throttle lever. Once the data had been selected an analogue computer worked. All that the pilot had to do then was to get the wingtips of his target lined up on the bright ring projected on the gunsight, and press the trigger. The K-14 was fitted almost from the start of P-51D production, the P-51K receiving this sight from mid-1944. This sight played a major role in the P-51D's impressive score of aerial victories. The P-51D began to arrive in Europe in quantity in March of 1944. The 55th Fighter Group was the first to get the P-51D, trading in its P-38s for the new bubble-topped fighters. The change from the torqueless twin-engined P-38 to the single-engined P-51 did cause some initial problems, and the lack of directional stability caused by the presence of a full fuselage tank took a lot of getting used to. However, once their pilots became fully adjusted to their new mounts, they found that the P-51D possessed a marked edge in both speed and manoeuvrability over all Luftwaffe piston-engined fighters at altitudes above 20,000 feet. However, Luftwaffe pilots considered the Mustang to be rather vulnerable to cannon fire, particularly the liquid-cooled Merlin engine which could be put out of action by just one hit. The Mustang was the only Allied fighter with sufficient range to accompany bombers on their "shuttle" missions in which landings were made in Russia after deep-penetration targets had been attacked from English bases. The Mustangs also participated in low-altitude strikes on Luftwaffe airfields, a rather dangerous undertaking as these fields were very heavily defended by flak. The Model This is the second P-51D Mustang released by Zoukei-Mura, but only the first this reviewer has actually got his hands on, although having several other ZM releases I am quite familiar with the Super Wing Series concept. The sturdy medium sized, yet deep, top opening box, with a lovely rendition of a British P-51K on the front, is jam packed with styrene. Each of the twelve grey and two clear sprues are individually wrapped in poly bags, with the clear sprues also having foam wrapping around the parts for extra protection. There are three large decal sheets which are supplied in another protective poly bag along with the instruction booklets. It is pretty obvious that the main instruction book is from the first P-51D release as this kit builds up in the same way, but if you are building a P-51K then you will need to refer to the supplementary booklet which is associated to the extra sprue specific to this mark. The medium grey styrene is beautifully moulded, with no sign of flash as is expected these days, but there are a lot of moulding pips, probably due to the nature of the parts design, which does mean there is a little extra cleaning up to do. The details on the parts are very well moulded with restrained panel lines, rivets fasteners on the outer skin, whilst the interior, which is what makes these kits rather special, is quite mind boggling, not just with the finesse of design but with the amount of interior parts provided. That said, there are a couple of noticeable problems, the first is that the wings have definite panel lines which I believe were actually filled to help with the laminar flow of the wing, but an easy fix. The second is the machine gun barrels, which, although quite well protected on the sprue, three or four have a pronounced warp on the review example as the barrel muzzles aren’t connected to the sprue. Of course this is easily overcome with the purchase of the metal barrel set that ZM have also released, but this shouldn’t occur with the sort of technology available these days. The instruction book is beautifully laid out, clear and easy to read, with a preface of aircraft specifications and assembly information, followed by paint colours required and the usual safety information ref tools etc. After the preface pages each major assembly has its own build section. The first page of which provides photos of the completed sub-assemblies, a written guide to what these sub-assemblies are called and in the top right hand corner of each the number of parts used in each assembly. The photos/diagrams all show the colours used to paint each part and how it should look when complete, not accounting for weathering of course. The build itself begins with the engine and what could be termed over the top in relation to the amount of detail provided that will never be seen. Each cylinder block is moulded in two halves with each of the individual cylinders moulded into one half. The completed blocks are then attached to the three piece crank case, followed by the intake manifold and cam covers. To the front of the engine the front and rear portions of the gearbox are joined, with the propeller shaft sitting between and the dual drive unit at front and the whole assembly attached to the engine block. The two piece coolant header tank is then fitted above the gearbox and the four piece ignition harness attached to the top of the engine. The two magnetos, coolant pump and cam shaft drive unit ate assembled and fitted to the rear of the engine, followed by the supercharger unit, which is made up of the two piece supercharger housing for each of the first and second stages, boost control unit, drain valve and aftercooler. The aftercooler pump and ignition harness are fitted to the port side, whilst on the starboard side the ignition harness and oil relief valves are attached. The individual exhaust stacks are then attached along with their respective fairings ensuring that the stack angles are correct. The final stage of the engine assembly is the building up of the firewall, onto which the two piece oil tank is attached, along with the oil line on the front and a couple of black boxes on the rear. The engine bearers are then fitted to each side of the engine then attached to their respective points on the firewall. Lastly the oil line is fitted between the bottom of the oil tank to the pump on the underside of the engine. The next stage concerns the assembly of the cockpit and begins with the fitting of the filler pipe and gauge to the fuselage fuel tank which is then fitted to a support base, then the fuselage floor frame along with a small rear bulkhead. There is a choice of seats, one with seatbelts moulded into it, the other without, depending on whether the modeller intends to add a pilot figure, one of which is available separately. The seat is attached to the rear armoured bulkhead via two supports, whilst the aerial relay box is attached to the rear of the headrest. The radio set and battery are attached to the support framework, to the front of which the heater and ventilation pipes are attached. This assembly is then fitted to the rear of the armoured bulkhead and assembled to the cockpit floor with the battery/radio frame sitting on the fuel tank. There is a choice of instrument panel; one with very nicely detail moulded instruments, which with careful painting should look great, the other is plane as is meant for use with the provided decal. To the underside of the panel the rudder pedal unit and switch box are attached. The side panels are then fitted to the cockpit along with the instrument panel assembly and instrument pipework to the rear of the panel. Moving onto the fuselage interior, the engine assembly is attached to the cockpit assembly. The oil cooler is assembled and fitted to the supporting frame and put to one side. The coolant radiator is then assembled out of the radiator front matrix, rear matrix and sides. The oil cooler, coolant radiator and rear radiator exhaust duct are attached to the underside of the cockpit assembly. The long coolant/oil pipes are then attached to their respective radiators and the inlet/outlet fittings on the engine. The three part carburetor air induction duct is then assembled and fitted beneath the engine attaching to the supercharger intake and the front of the engine. A small oil pipe is then fitted to the starboard side of the oil cooler assembly. It’s only now that the fuselage itself is assembled. Unlike standard kits where the fuselage is split into port and starboard halves, in this kit it is made of up of individual panels and sections. First of all the sides are added, not forgetting to fit the two oxygen bottle to the inside of the starboard side panel. These are followed by the upper fairing and the lower panel which surrounds the radiator/oil cooler duct. The engine cowling is next and the modeller is given a choice of having them fitted or not, and since there is so much detail in the engine it would seem a shame to have it covered up. There doesn’t appear to be an option to have them removable, unlike the Tamiya kit and their magnetic answer. If the cowling is to be fixed permanently closed then there is no need to add the panel supporting framework around the engine, if the engine is to be exposed then these will need to be attached. Also take note to fit the correct intake filter panel for use on the Mk.IV as specified in the supplementary instruction sheet. The separate tail cone, made up of two halves into which the tail wheel bay is assembled from the two sides, roof and forward bulkhead, is now assembled, using either the standard or supplementary parts are necessary. This also goes for the vertical tail unit as the modeller has the choice one with a filet and one without depending on the model being made. Before fitting the fin and rudder the horizontal tailplanes are assembled from upper and lower full span halves and separate elevators. This is then fitted to the top of the tail cone and the fin/rudder unit on top of that. Either of the N-9 or K-14 gunsights are then assembled and fitted to the coaming which has been attached forward of the cockpit. The windscreen is then fitted along with the completed tailcone assembly thus completing the fuselage. Moving onto the wings and once again, like the fuselage, it’s like building the real thing, albeit somewhat simplified. The single piece spar and rib unit is fitted out with the six machine guns, each with their separate ammunition belts, three per side in their gun bays. The two part main fuel tanks are then assembled and fitted inboard of the gun bays before the whole sub-assembly is attached to the single piece lower wing skin part. The three clear identification lights are then fitted to the starboard underside wing tip coloured, probably best, from the inside. The undercarriage bay front bulkhead is attached to the wing by two outer spars and a central longitudinal bulkhead. The hydraulic actuators are then attached, two per side, whilst the retractable landing light is fitted to the port bay. The upper outer wing panels are then fitted, along with the separate leading edge panels inboard of the gun bays, the port leading edge having had the camera gun fitted beforehand. The flaps can be posed either retracted or extended depending on the modellers choice of display. Before the wing can be fitted to the fuselage, the joystick and associated control linkage is attached to the top of the wing and the wing fillets fitted to the mid-lower fuselage. With these in place the wing can be attached. With the kit looking more like a model aircraft the build moves on to the addition of ancillary parts, such as the radiator duct air intake, which comes in three parts and is also fitted with an additional length of pipework before fitting to the fuselage. The oil cooler and radiator outlet doors, which are then attached to the rear of the under fuselage, the radiator door is also fitted with an actuator jack and strengthening bar. The main undercarriage units are each made up of a single piece oleo, separate brake pipe and scissor link. The wheels consist of the brake unit, inner and outer hubs and two halves of each tyre. When assembled they should look rather good, although I would prefer the tyres moulded as a single piece. The completed units are then slid into position and twisted to fit the trunnions into their correct position. The inner doors and actuators are then fitted with the required droop, depending on how long the aircraft has been shut down, whilst the outer doors are fitted to the main oleos. The tail wheel assembly is a simpler affair with the main leg being moulded in a single piece, with the single piece wheel/tyre being fitted to the axle. Once fitted into the tail wheel bay the two bay doors can be attached. Whilst the aircraft could carry a variety of stores and equipment the kit comes with just a pair of drop tanks. Each is split horizontally and when assembled are fitted with the air and fuel pipes and attached to the pylons via two crutch plates. The completed assemblies can then be fitted to their respective hardpoints just outboard of the main undercarriage legs. Final outfitting means more choice for the modeller, dependent on which version or mark they are building. ZM have included three different canopies, (M-1 Inglewood built, K-1 Inglewood built and K-13 Dallas built), each with a separate internal frame and one with an external rear view mirror. There is also an option on which propeller to use as both the cuffed Hamilton Standard and un-cuffed Aeroproducts props are provided, with their respective backplates and spinners. There is also an option to have the radar warning antenna fitted to either side of the vertical fin, so check your references to see if the aircraft you are modelling was fitted with them and open up the holes in the fin halves before gluing them together. The last thing to be fitted are the gun bay doors, either open or closed, the navigation lights, tail light, pitot probe and aerial mast. Decals There are three large decal sheets included with this kit. Each very nicely printed with very little carrier film visible, with the exception of the Southern Cross decals and Star and Bar surrounds which will be covered up anyway. They appear to be in register and nicely opaque which is particularly useful if using the identification stripes on a couple of the paint options. There are stencils for one aircraft and include some cockpit placards and instruction placards for the gun bays. If you include the original kit schemes which are included in this one then the modeller can make one of seven different aircraft. These include:- P-51D-5-NA Ser.No. 44-13837 of the 343rd FS, 55th FG Miss Marilyn II, flown by Capt. Robert Welch P-51D-10-NA, Ser.No. 44-14450, of the 363rd FS, 357th FG, Old Crow, flown by Capt “Bud” Anderson P-51D-25-NA Ser.No. 44-73108, of the 334th FS, 4th FG Red Dog XII flown by Maj. Louis Norley Mustang IVa, Ser.No. KH774, 112Sqn, Royal Air Force Mustang Iva, Ser.No. KH716, 3Sqn, Royal Australian Air Force P-51K-10-NT, Ser.No. 44-12073, of the 348th FS, Sunshine VII P-51D-5NA Ser.No. 44-13410 of the 361st FG, Lou IV There is also a small sheet of masks to aid the painting of the canopy and windscreen. Conclusion If you’ve never come across a Zoukei-Mura Super Wings Kit before then have a look. They can appear to be pretty intimidating until you look at the clever and well thought out break down of parts. I don’t purport that they will be an easy build as there is a lot to do, both in preparation, painting and fitting, but the end result is well worth it. Whilst some don’t see the point of having all the internal structure, and yes it isn’t an exact replica of the real thing, but it gives options for some well detailed dioramas as well as looking interesting if left exposed. I think this kit is one of the most accessible ZM have released as it’s not overly complex and should be ok for the intermediate modeller and above. As with everything, take your time and the results will speak for themselves. With this kit you also get to build a 1:32 Mustang in British or Australian colours which has got to be good. If you want to really go to town on the model then ZM have also released a raft full of aftermarket items from the likes of Eduard and Master Models to enhance the build, although I would have liked to have seen at least an interior etched set or seatbelts included in the standard kit. Oh! And you will need to change the machine gun barrels, particularly if you’re leaving the gun bay doors open. Extremely highly recommended Review sample courtesy of

After it's 1/32nd Ho-229 (http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234946931-zoukei-mura-next-kit/?hl=horten#entry1411325), Zoukei Mura is now working on the 1/48th kit from the Horten flying wing. Source: http://www.zoukeimura.co.jp/en/sentiment/oyajiblog_060.html V.P.

Good evening all I have finally completed this years Christmas build, so I present to you the Zoukei-Mura 1/32nd scale A-1J Skyraider. I decided to finish it as the 602nd SOS boss bird as I thought it looks better with a black underside finish (also, another reason was I didn't have any 36622 grey paint, but don't tell anyone). The WIP can be found here. http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234993609-christmas-build-2015-zoukei-mura-a-1j-skyraider/ Not much extra has been done, in fact all I did was replace the gun barrels with brass tube as the originals were broken early in the build. The build wasn't a challenging build, but as is the way with Z-M there are a lot of details that can no longer be seen. Onto the pics. Comments of any sort are welcome, especially constructive criticism. Thanks for looking. Ted

After the 1/48th and 1/32nd Ta.152H-1 kits ( http://www.zoukeimura.co.jp/en/products/sws02_ta152.html& http://www.zoukeimura.co.jp/en/products/sws48_02_ta152.html ), Zoukei-Mura's next 1/32nd Focke-Wulf will be the Ta.152H-0 (new variant and new mold) - ref. SWS.11 Source: http://www.zoukeimura.co.jp/en/sentiment/oyajiblog_065.html V.P.

My very first 1/32 and I'm going to build straight from the box... Cockpit, primer TAMIYA FINE and Gunze H416 (RLM66)... Engine Junkers Jumo213E, real beauty... Of course, work in progres on cockpit and engine...