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Found 17 results

  1. Hiya all This is my first water Dio and I'm hoping to learn alot and prepare myself for a couple of high detail ship / sub dioramas that I have planned. I have already built and painted the sub, it was soooo tiny that I feel a bit silly posting photos of what was a few pieces and a little glue, not really taxing (apart from being small!) So this build will focus on the water..... A starter for 10. (A big fan of old school university challenge) Comments and suggestions welcome 🤓👍
  2. This is one of those builds that I really wanted to do as it brought back many memories of my time as a young kid rushing down to my local lifeboat station to watch them launch the boat down a steep ramp. The sight of the bow hitting the water and the large spray of water being thrown up was something else to a young lad. My local station was at Newhaven (Sussex) and that is why I used this name. Alas, the one I used to watch was not the robust Severn Class but I just wanted to have something to display. This kit is the new model as I read so much negative stuff about the old Airfix kit and so I decided to be patient and wait for it to come out. I had no major problems overall but the hull was a bit tricky to do. In the end I chose to glue the hull parts in stages and this seemed to work for me. I hope you enjoy viewing the pictures and thanks for taking an interest. A video can be found HERE and I will post some WIP pictures that show the internal work.
  3. Hi. This is my build of the Lindberg Diesel Tugboat that was a gift from a good friend in the US. As some members may know I like to add lights to most of my builds and this one seemed to be a good challenge. Overall the kit is quite good quality, though the plastic is the brittle type, and there was a small amount of flashing but nothing serious. The parts went together really well and, to be honest, it is a very nice kit to create. Anyway, I hope you enjoy the pictures and find inspiration to have a go yourself.
  4. As a 'work in progress', this is a bit of a fraud really as this very lengthy project is now finished. But I thought I'd share my working pictures in case the way I do these things is of any interest to anyone else. My models tend to be 'museum type' i.e. little or no weathering. There are, in any case, many folks here on these pages who do that sort of thing much much better than I do. On the other hand my aircraft models feature most, or in this case all, of the following: - Fully working flight controls, controlled by stick and rudder. - Manually retractable undercarriage - 'Pose-able' flaps - Lighting - nav, collision and cockpit - Illuminated HUD or gunsight - Working props, fan, turbines etc This is the story of how I did these things with the Airfix Harrier. Quite the hardest plastic kit I've tackled - weeks of putty and scribing, rinse and repeat!
  5. Never created SEA camouflage before, never built a Thud before, so yes, this is THE opportunity to do so. Here‘s the victim: As the kit decals do not offer a sharkmouth option I shall go ahead and purchase this from a well-known online shop from the UK: It will most probably be the „white lightning“ from 17 WWS in RTAB Korat. Looking forward to another great GB with you guys!
  6. Hi everyone. This is my build of the Lindberg Sea Witch in 1:96 scale which was sent as a challenge from a great friend in the US and what a challenge it turned out to be. I watched my friend build this kit and managed to learn most of the shortfalls from him and that helped a great deal as it allowed me to approach things differently. This made it a lot easier and I changed a few things that just didn't seem right on a ship like this. One of the worse jobs to do was to drill out all of the holes for the blocks (ranging from 3 x 4 mm to 5 x 4 mm) and you will need a lot of spare thin drills on stand-by as well as plasters, antiseptic wipes and a cloth to wipe the tears. Be sure to remove the swear box if you have one otherwise you will end up living on the streets. Luckily I had a lot of blocks left over from previous builds and did not have to drill too many of the blocks. A GOOD REASON TO KEEP THOSE LEFT-OVERS AND SPARES! You also have to drill holes in the masts, hand rails and virtually everywhere else they should already be pre-drilled during moulding. For this you will need rubber drills because the angles you have to drill are just crazy! The next worse job for me was hand making all of the rat lines and was something I'd never done before. They are not brilliant but they will do for me. Overall, the actual ship itself, the masts, etc, are fairly straightforward but every part does have a mould join line so be prepared for a lot of cleaning throughout but assembly was good and the parts fitted well. I did like the way the masts are passed through the decks and locate into a section in the bottom of the hull to give then the correct angle and stability. My friend made his with furled sails and they looked really good so I had to give it a go. Most pictures I found of furled sails show them fairly loose and hanging a little but when I read up on it for that era it stated that when in port the sails were tided tightly and that is what I went for in the end. As a first attempt I don't think they look that bad. Anyway, on to the pics now which are shown below but for more pictures of this and my other builds just click HERE. Thanks for looking and showing an interest.
  7. Hello, Wonder where I can find 1/72 scale decals for an F-4G Phantom II in Euro 1 or SEA camouflage (not Hill 1). It seems both decals and kits concerning the F-4G are difficult and/or expensive to get these days... Cheers / André
  8. Another started way back last year and finished earlier this week. EB-66 Destroyer, 42nd TEWS, 388th TFW, Korat RTAFB, 1973 Italeri mould, airbrushed freehand with Tamiya acrylics, Flory wash and Xtracrylix flat varnish. Builds into a cracking sized model, was difficult to photograph especially in lousy light (have tried different settings on some frames). Has great presence on the shelf. Size comparison with die-cast 1/72 F-4 Phantom: And with a Trumpy 1/72 F-105G: Cheers gang, Phil
  9. Just finished this one earlier today. The old Italeri B-57G kit with an Aires resin pit and replacement bombs from a Hasegawa weapons set. Raised panel lines were sanded away to give a better finish for the fuselage join. Little bit of re-scribe work on the wings for the wash to take. EZ line for the wiggly amps. Airbrushed free hand using Tamiya acrylics. Great kit to build and I have the standard B-57B kit in the stash somewhere as well. One more for my Vietnam collection. Cheers all, Phil
  10. Just finished this one today (2 in one day...!!!). The old and bold Trumpeter 1/72 IL-28. These kits can be picked up for peanuts. Fit is a bit off in places but with the usual effort scrubs up pretty well. Do not follow the instructions for the pilots cockpit as the seat would be way too low. I wanted something to go with my Vietnam collection so used spare decals from the stash rather than the box options. Airbrushed using Tamiya paints (which I totally adore for airbrush work). Weathered using a Flory dark wash. EZ Line used for the radio wire. Very pleased with the way it has turned out and has decent presence on the shelf. Here we go with the photos: Cheers all, Phil
  11. Hello guys, While researching the markings for my RF-101 build, it looks to me that different-sized national insignia were used on the camouflaged RF-101 Voodoo. The decals provided with the KH kit are somewhat larger from what I see on the period photographs. My question is: what is the 'official' size of the 'ministars' used on USAF combat planes during this period? Thank you for your help. Cheers, Quang
  12. Hi, Thought it might be worth creating a thread for this: Really gutted -Simon Hargreaves able to walk away from the crash Sam
  13. Whilst casually browsing the WWW looking at all things Fleet Air Arm at this particular time and came across images of aircraft mounted on gun turrets, novel I thought , and here's my question. How did the said warships recover their aircraft after they had done their job? Stuart
  14. Bonjour tous le monde, Ceci est un nouveau scratch diorama 1/35 en cours, nous sommes au fond d'un estuaire de la Bretagne, Il y aura un quai liittle en bois et une cabane de pêcheur, un petit bateau en bois et un ou deux pêcheurs (je ne sais pas exactement en ce moment ...) Il est juste le début des travaux, l'altération de la cale et de la hutte est en cours ...... .....To be continued
  15. Along with the A-4M posted last night I have also finished this Kiwi A-4K Skyhawk. It's the Hasegawa 1/48 A-4E/F converted to an A-4K. The changes are all minor, and they are well described on the Gekko Graphics decal instructions. I used Xtracolor enamels for the SEA scheme and Gekko decals to finish it off. I armed it according to the Gekko instructions using a couple of LAU-10 fra the Hasegawa weapons set. Jens
  16. Oldmodels Decals announces the following re-issues as additions to its DIGITAL decal range: RNZAF UH-1D/H Iroquois 1970s high viz green scheme RNZAF UH-1D/H Iroquois South East Asian scheme RNZAF UH-1D/H Iroquois Euro1 scheme These are available in 1/35, 1/48 and /72. Available now at www.oldmodelsdecals.com or on TradeMe (NZ customers only) (these schemes are also available in 1/24, 1/32 and 1/144 in the existing INKJET range) John Oldmodels Decals
  17. Oldmodels Decals has released the following decals in Digital format: 1/144 Viscounts – all four NAC schemes and SkyBus 1/48 Raytheon B200 Super King air – RNZAF 1/32 T/A-4K Skyhawk – RNZAF – SEA, Euro1 and Final schemes. All subjects are a re-work of existing inkjet decals (still available) except the B200 which is a new scale for the Red Wings kit. When releasing the first tranche I forgot to mention the A4 last scheme and Macchi decals have been upgraded by the addition of the white formation strips. These are the first batch of tranche 2, others in the tranche which includes some A320, B737, ATR72, F27, C130H, P-3B, B757 and all my Vampire schemes will be issued progressively over the next two weeks as time permits. I have also updated my website to give updated information about the Digital Decals (see page About Digital Decals) and a new page Digital or Inkjet? to aid decision making about which to buy – it is definitely a horses for courses trade-off like everything else in today’s world. Of interest to some may be the statement that the colours and white are solid – even on gloss black – I have tested this. The decal ink also contains a UV protection built into it – no need to hide your model in dark corners to prevent decal fade from sunlight. These are available from my website, www.oldmodelsdecals.com and within New Zealand through TradeMe. John Oldmodels Decals
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