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  1. Now that I finished my build for the Fw 190 group build, I thought it'd be time to start the single remaining kit in my stash, Revell's 1:32 Bf 109G-10 Erla. Colour scheme will be of Yellow 7 from JG300 at the end of the war in Europe. I'll be following Eduard's painting instructions for this aircraft. Boxart: Eduard's painting instructions. Photo of the real aircraft. Cockpit and propeller done. I managed to break the clear fuel pipe that goes into the cockpit, but that was fixed with a but of glue. More progress tomorrow!
  2. Hello peeps. Well, uk is in lockdown and I am working from home. In between work I will get some bench time. So time to have a play with an experimental aircraft. I bought the PM ho 229 from Tornado models in Birmingham and I set about engraving the panel lines and was all set to start until I managed to break the canopy.....The canopy was broken beyond repair and I couldn’t find a replacement and asked the good folks here for help getting a replacement. Then the very generous and superb gent @dogsbody kindly offered me the pioneer kit all the way from Canada. Blown away by his generosity that kit has now arrived and I will be building the pm kit and pioneer kit side by side. It will be a slow build but thanks to mr dogsbody (who I owe a pint to when all this blows over) I have crash moulded a new canopy. Here is the wonderful box art of the pioneer 229. It will be an adventure! At least the pioneer parts seem to fit. The pm one..........stay safe and enjoy the ride as I build both of these side by side.
  3. Hi Gents , I present to you my Helmut Wick Me 109 E4 as it was at the time of his fate in November 1940. I must admit that my tag " BoB" is not precisely appropriate , as common agreement of end of BoB is October 1940.. Forgive me for that. Anyway, For me this scheme is interesting as it shows , in my opinion , the Luftwaffe transition move from "offensive" scheme on aircrafts , to "defensive" one." "wind is turning" Not far from that, RAF would change for fighters from DE/DG to MG/DG scheme .. Guys, not pretend to be 100% pertinent on that So this plane camo was toned down with brush application of green all over light parts ( included yellow nose identification markings) and previous double chevrons markings were overpainted , choose to represent it with RLM 02 to stay compliant with " toned down" overall apparence . just a kind of feeling :-)) Painted with Gunze paints. seing pictures... see that there is things to improve/clean.. On to the Pics ! Any comments welcomed ! Hope you'll like it ! Cheers !!
  4. Hallo Now this is after a long brake with resin kits my first since a very long time. I built two kits of this He-51 in the past. One from Classic Airframe and another from Roden. Today I have a better kit. This time in scale 1/32. Since I live in Vienna, I intend to build the aircraft from JG.223 3. Staffel from Vienna in 1938. After getting out all parts, I cleaned them in a proper way. So that they are actually ready for use. I had to notice, that some parts are missing. This is a bitter moment. The most disappointing missing part is the entry hatch. So, depending on Silverwing, I wrote a mail already, I will have to build it in scratch. I do not have any literature about this type. No detail shots. All I have is like a ragpicker I went through the web. I found some nice photos. So therefore the call for you, if you have detail photos or drawings from this type, let me know. The catch with the rigging of the plane is the same as I saw it in all other kits before. Nothing new. My question are basically the interior and the rigging technique. I assume it could be equivalent to the Gladiator by using flat metal as rigging material by itself. So far for today with some pictures. Happy modelling
  5. So I've finally decided to bite the bullet and post a WIP here. I've challenged a friend's son to a model build (we have a month), and I've decided to incorporate this aeroplane into my ongoing (so far not published) build. A while back (OK, a few years ago), I read a book by Hans-Werner Lerche (1914-1994). He was a Luftwaffe Test Pilot during WW2, and flew over 125 different aircraft types, including evaluation flights of many allied aircraft, most of them after only visual examinations of the aeroplane (so no training or handbooks!). He was the principal pilot of the Luftwaffe test site at Mecklenburg Rechlin 1945. In his book he describes his career, and lists the aircraft he flew, quite a few with enough detail to be able to depict a reasonable model. I have spent the last few years putting together as much detail as I can, and purchasing as many of the aircraft as I can in 1/48th scale. I plan to use this thread to document the builds. Rivet-counters- please close this thread now, as I don't plan to do perfect- near enough is good enough for me, especially after having had a minor stroke 9 years ago, three shoulder surgeries in the last two years, and an ulnar nerve surgery last year. My eye-hand co-ordination is not close too what it should be, but I'm doing this as therapy. I should also add that I'm old-school- brush only. So, to kick this off, here is the start of my 1st documented build in this long-term project- a 1/48th Henschel Hs 123 A-1. Unfortunately there is not much beyond the fact that he flew the Hs 123 in the book, and I have not been able to firmly identify a colour scheme, so I will be going with a generic 70/71/65 machine as per the instructions. The box cover for the 1/48th Henschel Hs-123 A-1- I picked it up at a reasonable price not long ago. The sprues of the 1/48th Henschel Hs-123 A-1.
  6. Hallo We found some pictures from my father in law. Maybe it is of interest. Happy modelling
  7. Hallo I have 10 kits from the 109 Gustav. From version 2 to 14. All sorts of kits. The Tamiya and Zvezda G-6 and several Eduard editions. My question is: The Gustav was in reality criss-cross converted. GM-1, MW-50, upgrated hood, Mk-108 and so on. The situation is, that nearly no kit represents the aircraft I want to build. If it is so, in detail I miss hatches, or the wrong hood. The difference with upgraded vision improved hood to the standard Erla hood is too big, to be ignored. Especially on the aspect of aerial. AS will be AS. No conversion intended. To much work! On the other side, for planes of JG-300 / 301 / 302 the landing light is mostly omitted. I intend to build the aircraft I intend, and not to stick on the decal option the kit has. Lots of decals I have, lots of masks too. I need to know a scribing tool to make the missing hatches in fuselage or wing by myself. I need to know where to get dash boards for the improved blind flying and radio equipment for the night fighter versions. I need to know aftermarket hoods for upgraded vision improved hood / not Erla. If you can help me, I would be happy. Thanks in forward. Happy modelling
  8. Hi Now my 5th Ju-88 is ready. The second from ICM. Before that it was Dragon and Revell. Regarding the kit: Relatively large compromises have to be made in terms of accuracy compared to the origin. This primarily affects the cockpit, with the flat floor instead of the massive height offset. This is linked to a few details in the cockpit that made me shake my head. The additional control stick in position, the additional control stick, which was intended for the bombardier, is only installed when approaching the target, otherwise it is fixed to the right side wall. The device for storing the boarding ladder on the rear bulkhead under the radio equipment is missing! The A-4 variant is missing all ammo boxes. The ammunition feed and the sleeve hoses are also missing. Therefore I did not install the weapons. What is still missing is the large bulkhead on the large cockpit hood, not even Eduard has it with him. General: The injection molded parts just don't fit well. Some parts are warped, the wing connections have a tolerance problem with the pins and holes. They're really annoying. Many gluing areas are beveled, so that in the end there is an gluing line instead of an gluing area. So it will loosen easily! When installing the engine nacelles, the designer obviously neglected some of the geometry. The front tenons of the inside and outside nacelle would have to be chamfered so that a reasonable prefabrication of the assembly group is possible. The quality: Of the injection molded parts themselves can best be observed with small parts. There is hardly an antenna or pitot tube that does not break. Brittleness is present in smal long thin parts. Some components have so much internal stress that maximum force is required to join them. Classic example is the great pulpit. The nose pulpit has a typical tolerance problem. Tongues on upper part reach too far down left and right for lack of fit. Rework required. Especially on a fuselage front part, which consists of three or four parts, a complete fitting test beforehand is hardly possible. About the model: This A-4 has an interesting paint job that deviates from the norm. The aircraft is from KG 54 Totenkopf. Operative in Brindisi in Italy around 1943. I will make the aircraft from KG 54 Totenkopf. Operative in Brindisi in Italy around 1943. Brindisi is in the middle of the heel of the Italian boot at the eastern coast. In this area there occurred one of the biggest environmental pollutions. Here is the link: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SS_John_Harvey By the way, the scribbling I used a pen. First time. Acrylic empty pen from Montana. My WIP: Well, so have a look on the model now: Happy modelling
  9. Hallo While doing our Christmas cleaning, we found a pile of photos. The pictures are from a flight with an F-156. It must have been around 1997. At that time, this aircraft was privately owned at the Wiener Neustadt airfield. The pilot of this machine had a model shop. After we started building plastic models, back then as beginners, we got interested in these old types of planes. My girlfriend at the time put me in touch. The aircraft itself was essentially original. The entire control, cockpit, etc. There was only the extension for the officially prescribed radio. The pilot who flew this machine was a very old gentleman at the time. At a young age he was stationed in the far north as a Ju-88 operational pilot. The operations were directed exclusively against shipping traffic. Allied supplies to Russia. Flying in the far north is no easy task. Light, weather, magnetism, loneliness. That is why radio navigation was of great importance. The lonely radio stations were vital. To secure this thread of life, this pilot was often on the route with the Fi-156. Visits, celebrations, equipment were the purposes of his countless non-operative flights. Hence the familiarity with this type of aircraft. Flying was really fun. We did a proper short takeoff and we went backwards. Rarely have I flown as stable and safe as with this aircraft. Note as a model builder: We built 3 storks. One from Esci, two from Tamiya. While the Tamiya kits are pretty nice, they have the pathetic flaw of making the plane look stupid. The wing and the landing gear are not corresponding at all. Wing positve dihedral as if in flight, landing gear as if on the ground. That's what I said to the people at Tamiya in Shizuoka in Japan personally, but it was ignored. I would like a kit for Christmas with which I can represent a stork on the ground with a negative dihedral and spread legs, and one kit in flight on a stand with a positive dihedral and hanging landing gear. Please look at the pictures. @Julien, I have some more for a Walkaround, if wanted. Happy modelling
  10. Hi folks, may I present my latest (and longest) project. Started this beast 2 years ago, ZM Ta-152-H1 in 1/48. It's retty difficult to build due to strange parts brakdown, lots of filling and sanding was required to finish it off. I was lucky enough to get the PE parts for it, but the most time consuming was placing of HGW rivets over the entire airframe. Painted with MRP Paints, weathered with oils. Enjoy the pics!
  11. Does anybody ever corrected frames? Cockpits have usually external and internal frames. Mostly all kits the cockpit clear parts show just external frames. Even if there is just an internal frame. No matter which type. Ju-88, Ju-87, Me-110, Helifax,. I think about removing the external frame, and just spraying inside. Has anyone experience on this matter? Happy modelling
  12. After about ten years since I started working on this model, I would like to present you this model in the RFI! I wouldn't say much about the model, it is already well known to everyone. A very good model of Revell, but the appearance of the new Eduard's 110 overshadowed it. As far as I remember, the fit is decent, but not great. The details are really beautiful, especially the cockpit. RevelL decals are standard excellent, but I must say that they are still a bit thicker. Gunze's chemistry failed to neutralize transparent film. From the some extra touches, here ad there the panels are overlapped and the exhaust pipes are hollowed in. Painting with Model Master enamel authentic colors (the first time for me) and I'm really pleasantly surprised by how easy they are to spray (for classic enamels)! And their colors are just to my taste! The weathering was done using a stencil for the effect of marbling (more precisely, granite ;D), wooden watercolor crayons, pigments, tamiya washes, silver pencil and small chipping done with a fine brush. Stencils for the marble effect are very practical, but it is still desirable to adjust them with your own hands, so to speak (which I did not do), because you often feel an unnaturally sharp border. My problems were caused by the Montex mask, which left horrible amounts of glue, so in the end the cabin frame was painted 3 times, and finally with a brush. I would like to thanks our colleagues from MAKETARSKI KUTAK (http://www.maketarskikutak.com/index.php) for their crucial help regarding this problem. Only after taking pictures I did notice that I forgot to paint the radiators... I took pictures in two sets because I still struggle with photography. On a white background, the images turned out to be too dark, but perhaps still closer to the real model, while with a dark gray background, the images are clearly visible, but the RLM75 and 76 are too bright and the weathering is overemphasized. In the end, despite a certain number of mistakes, I must say that I am satisfied with this fast and experimental (for me) work! All criticisms, suggestions and praises are more than welcome! And the pictures at the end: The details: And a few WIP pictures with unfortunately ruined finished paint job. I over-aggressively polished the model and ruined the finished paint job which I did not adequately correct...
  13. Another day, another Luftwaffe build from me. This time it's the Hasegawa Bf 109F-4/Trop in 1:48 with markings for Marseille's last Bf 109F before moving to the ill-fated G-2/Trop. The kit decals are cracked and are beyond saving, so I'll use a mix from Xtradecals, Academy and Hobby Boss ones. Boxart: This is a special edition with resin wheels. Regular ones are also included. Original decals: Before starting the assembly I decided to paint the small parts on the sprues.
  14. I can finally call this build completed. A few problems with the decals being brittle and breaking when sliding them into the model, but everything turned out ok in the end.
  15. After building Revell's 1:32 Me 262, I thought I'd start on this one. This Fw 190A-3 is the original new tool version that would spawn so many boxings by Hasegawa. The plan is to build it as Black 13 with the Eagle Head on the nose. Decals look great on the sheet. Hopefully they won't breal when placed in warm water. The Eagle Head will also be a test to try my Mr. Mark Softer. Here's a photo of the box.
  16. Hello guys, While I study for my next exam this 20th and dread my upcoming visit to the dentist (Wisdom Tooth removal), I thought I'd show you my next big scale project. It's the Revell (new tool) 1:32 Messerschmitt Me 262A-1a. I'm certain I won't be building any of the given schemes. I'll go for a what if colour scheme based in the early camouflage of the 262 in RLM 74/75. The only distinctive marking for this otherwise generic scheme will be the addition of a double chevron (from the Bf 109G-6 in 32nd scale from Revell) to denote a Captain's aircraft. Boxart: Parts (still bagged):
  17. After fighting this kit in the early build phase, I was able to complete it to a decen standard. The difficult areas were the engine nacelles and the wings to fuselage area. The first one was solved by applying CA to the gaps, and the latter by sanding the upper portion of the wheel wells until the wings fitted without gaps. Would I build another 1:32 Me 262 from Revell? Well, now that I know the poor areas of the kit, I'd definitely give a go to the original nightfighter B-1a/U1. If you want a better fitting kit, then the Trumpeter one is for you (and me too). The last photo has Galland's autobiography (left) and a book about his life in Argentina (right).
  18. I don't see many Bf 110s built. In any scale, from 72nd to 32nd. In 1:32, the only available kits are the old Revell Bf 110C-4/b and the family from Dragon that goes from C to D. The Dragon kit is not easy, being very fiddly in multiple places, such as the propeller construction and engine assembly. The clear parts also come separate as 8 individual sections. The engines is where I encountered the biggest issues. If you aren't going to open the cowlings, then you can just assemble the basic engine with the arms and glue them to the landing gear bulkheads. Once that's done, make sure to glue the outer exhausts looking upward, while the inner ones point downwards. The covers for the engines were also wrongly marked in the instructions. I didn't realise this until it was time to glue everything together. But I beat the kit in the end. I used the kit decals. The crosses were undersized. I think they'd fit better in a 1:48 kit. The sharkmouth conformed to the panel lines after using some Mr. Mark Softer. The question is, would I build this kit again in spite of the self induced issues and poor instructions? Absolutely. In the Revell boxing of course.
  19. Keeping with my trend of big scale Luftwaffe planes, I purchased this one today. Decals had some sort of rust colour on the sheet but none on the decals themselves. I tested the Dragon logo on hot water and was able to slide it onto the surface of a paint mule without breaking it. The model is huge, almost the same size as my Ju 88 from Revell in 1:32. The kit includes a small decal sheet (that doesn't come with the stenciling), a small PE fret, a metal wire, and over 400 parts molded in light grey plastic. However, this one won't be my next build. My next one will be the Revell 32nd scale Me 262A-1a. I'm just preparing the mood for this future build . Here's the boxart:
  20. Youtube recommended me this short video. It shows some Fw 190F-8s from what I assume is SG10 (due to the yellow nose band and rudder) at the end of WW2 in Czechoslovakia (I base this claim by the fact the Revell 1:32 F-8 has markings for two SG10s based at Czechoslovakia).
  21. Dear fellow Britmodellers, here's my 1/72 Sabrekits Henschel Hs-126, built from the box. Painted with Gunze/Mr.Hobby acrylics, photographs by Wolfgang Rabel. My buying impulse for this kit was the marking option for an aircraft photographed in Austria (my homecountry), at the end of the war. According to the paint instructions, this aircraft had black undersides and belonged to FFS(B)11, a blind-flying school; according to my research, FFS(B)11 never existed. I came across an online photograph which does not support the 'black undersides': https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:German_utility_aircraft_in_Austria_1945.jpg The simplified type of markings rather suggest this airplane served with one of the Nachtschlachtgruppen (night harrassment units) or a close-range recce squadron. All the confusion aside, the Sabrekits model is difficult to assemble and has a few surface irregularities, making for a troublesome build. There are no positive location tabs, just shallow depressions, where the struts are supposed to go. The landing gear legs are butt-joined to the fuselage, the instrument panel is just a flat piece of plastic, and while some of the struts were too long, others were too short. I was reminded of short-run-kits from 20 years ago. I have not seen the new 1/72 Brengun kit of this type, but I heard rumours that fellow Britmodeller @Redboost is working on it. It would be interesting to hear his opinion to compare both offerings. Thank you for your interest in this topic. Best greetings from Vienna! Roman
  22. This kit has been lying in my stash for quite some time, after a really horrible start to 2022, I decided to do a quick OOB build. The Fly kit is a reasonable easy build, I was a little sceptical about the "Wellenmuster" finish so decided to search the net for an alternative finish. I eventually found photos of other camouflaged Grunau Baby 11b's which appeared to have been camouflaged with paintbrushes!! I am not sure of the colours used for camouflage and decided on RLM 62. For the main finish I used Vallejo Aged White. The result was as follows :- Cheers, Andy
  23. Dear fellow Britmodellers, here's my 1/72 Revell Heinkel He-177 A-5 in markings of KG1. Painted with Mr.Hobby acrylics, photos by Wolfgang Rabel. Special thanks @Richard502 for donating the kit, and to @Han Solo for paint advice. The Revell kit was released 20 years ago. Compared to modern toolings, it has some shortcomings, such as poor transparencies and problematic fit on larger parts (wings and fuselage). The Revell kit is still a welcome replacement for the old Airfix model (from the 1960s). For the upper colors, I chose RLM02/RLM70. Decals are from Eagle Strike (72040), representing one of the last Heinkels in service. In autumn of 1944, Kampfgeschwader 1 was disbanded and fight personnel were sent to /JG 7, converting to the Messerschmitt Me 262 fighter jets. The He-177 is mostly displayed with anti-shipping rockets, I loaded my model more conventionally, using the six bombs provided in the Revell kit. The underside was painted RLM65. Thank you for your interest, best greetings from Vienna! Roman
  24. I've just bought a copy of the MENG 1/32 Komet, mainly because it was flown in RAF markings and will fit into my RAFWaffe build plan. The kit includes markings for ME 163, RAF serial VF 241, Builders CN 191060, as flown in England in 1946 and 1947. BUT... the kit calls for the underside to be in trainer yellow. There are many representations of the ME 163 in these, striking, colours, along with solid black green upper surfaces and fin, but not rudder. Some research brings this into question. Photos in Kenneth S West's book The Captured Luftwaffe show a clear difference in tone between the "P" in a circle marking, unquestionably in trainer yellow and the under side. Then I found more photos in ME 163 Part 2 by Ransom and Camenann that suggest the undersurface was a light blue colour. Their photos also show the dark fin and other bits on the fuselage overpainted, but another suggesting the upper surface was not a solid dark green, but a more usual two green splinter pattern. There is a colour profile showing all this. My understanding was that Luftwaffe A/C in RAF markings had yellow under surfaces early in the war, this was not maintained in later years. What are the Luftwaffe experts thoughts on this?
  25. Alpha Jet A ‘Bundesluftwaffe’ (KPM0266) 1:72 Kovozávody Prostějov At the end of the 60s, with the SEPECAT Jaguar transformed from a trainer into an attack aircraft, it left the advanced jet trainer replacement unfulfilled, so France and Germany began a collaboration to design a new trainer that was to become the Dassault/Dornier Alpha Jet, the Breguet part in the collaboration being absorbed by Dassault when they bought the company. It flew late in 1973, and went into service with France in 1979 after extensive trials as the Alpha Jet E, fulfilling a similar role to the BAe Hawk in the RAF. The Germans used the jet as a Light Attack aircraft with the A suffix appended, and limited export success brought the Alpha Jet to Francophile countries in Europe and Africa, with a number of ex-Luftwaffe aircraft finding their way to Thailand and Portugal. One of Britain's defence company QinetiQ bought 6 ex-Luftwaffe aircraft, which occasionally make appearances at airshows. Germany has retired the aircraft now, but many airframes are still in service, with the later MS2 with new avionics, engines, a glass cockpit and improved weapons carrying performance used to train pilots on modern types. The Kit Originally released in 2021, there have been a number of reboxings of the core kit, with various markings options and parts to address the needs and wants of us modellers, which is their stock-in-trade. This boxing offers you the ability to model the A, E or more advanced MS using the parts in the box, but the decals supplied are purely for the A, as stated on the box, opening the door for anyone with aftermarket decals for the other types to use this boxing to apply their own decals. Good to know. The kit arrives in a figure-type end-opening box, with two sprues in grey styrene, a clear sprue, decal sheet and instruction booklet. The rear of the box has all the profiles for the marking options printed on it in colour. Construction begins with the cockpit, which revolves around the two-seat tub, with the two seats having belt decals, a pair of control columns, additional console parts, and decals for the side consoles. The two instrument panels also have decals, with a choice of decals, depending on which mark you are depicting. The cockpit and rear coaming are inserted into the fuselage along with the nose-gear bay, and in anticipation of adding the underside insert, the main gear bays are built on a single roof part with bulkheads separating them and outfitted with landing gear struts and wheels, then glued into the inside of the insert, which can be fitted into the fuselage, closing up the underside. The wings are simple structures with two main parts each, the undersides smaller than the uppers, to make for a slimmer trailing edge, and attaching to the fuselage by the usual slot-and-tab method, as are the elevators, with a pair of blade antennae fixed near the top of the tail fin. The intakes are also installed at this stage, which each have an inner splitter plate with a C-profile intake trunk joined together and offered up to the fuselage either side of the rear pilot’s cockpit. The mark of your model is determined by the instrument decals within the cockpits and the nose cones, which you have a choice of for all three types of this aircraft. The decals are for the A, which has a pointed nose and pitot probe, and required the removal of a strake on each side of the nose, which is shown in the diagram. The E has a rounded nose, while the MS has an angled flat tip. A busy diagram shows the installation of the nose gear and all the remaining bay doors, the former being made from three parts with an additional retraction strut added as it is inserted into the bay. Four underwing pylons are included in the kit, which can be left empty or have two extra fuel tanks slung under them, with the option of a central gun pack under the belly. The forward sections of the flap fairings are moulded into the wings, but the aft sections are added from separate parts on the moulded-in flying surfaces. The sensor fit differs between options, with extra steps showing those for French, Canadian and QinetiQ, then the one-piece canopy is glued in place with a small intake on the side of the spine, after which it’s time to paint your model. Markings A separate sheet shows the location of all the stencils, of which there are quite a few, then you refer to the rear of the box for your main markings options. From the box you can build one of the following: Decals are printed without acknowledgment, and have good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin gloss carrier film cut close to the printed areas. The upper wing stencils are printed on a single decal per wing, so care will be needed to ensure it doesn’t break up, and here the thin carrier film will be a boon once applied, but tricky during fitting. Conclusion I’ve always liked the Alpha Jet, and this is a great little model with lots of detail moulded-in, and some nice decal markings for in service German Jets. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
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