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  1. I have started collecting figures to represent the attacks on the famous farm house, I intend to collect and paint some French Line Infantry, French Cuirassiers, KGL light and standard line troops, and not foregetting Sharps very own 95th, I will also collect one of the rather good farm builds sets and add anything to create a dio of the event. So I started with the French Line Infantry - I have been picking thease up in the single sprues so far and have primed a few ready for paint, they are quite fiddly but very pleasing once a bit of paint is on and some washes/high lighting. Here is my first minus painting his musket/feet and final touch up. Erk.
  2. After some major setbacks in the GB sector recently, I need a simple OOB mojo restorer. But the self-harmer in me, can't accept my limitations so... Yep it's an OOB Hetzer but from a manufacturer I know nothing about (Rubicon) in a scale 1/56 or 28mm which I've never worked in but apparently is very popular with wargamers. With wargamers in mind, they're (allegedly) quick and easy to build , with a low parts count, which should be ideal The grey has come out a lot bluer than it really is, but what I do notice is that the parts count isn't that low. 2 sets of tracks, different mantles, idler wheels and barrel if you want early, mid or late version or the limited production flamethrower variant. And different sets of tracks for the different variants. Talking of track, not sure you like rubber bands but don't want to be fiddling around with individual links? How about a single moulding? Following the @Bobby No Mac approved standard the alcohol based sizing guide is a wine cork this time out! So, plenty of choice for what is basically a wargaming token. The disappointment is in the decals and instructions department I appreciate that with complete runs of digits for number, and various size crosses and some Czech marking as well, there's no shortage in wither variant or colour scheme but the weakling is that instructions. These do a good enough job of showing what goes where and the variants but not the combinations. And the painting guide is can be hyped up to minimal at best! Hence it's going to be out of the box! Mojo, prepare to be resuscitated
  3. So, let's have a go at something a little different I thought, a little challenging perhaps... Now Napoleonic Armies have always had a special interest for me but scared me to death with the intricacies of the uniforms. So what better challenge could there possibly be? Inevitably I stumbled across these chaps on the E of the Bay They looked as though they had everything I would need to be able to assemble and paint a representative force for the display cabinet (I'm not a wargamer but I do like 28mm scale figures) However, when I opened the box I found myself still a little confused so after many hours on T'internet researching the subject I treated myself to a book to help. I bought "An Illustrated Encyclopaedia of Uniforms of the Napoleonic Wars" by Digby Smith. It's a good basic ground work with good clear illustrations and discussions of the uniforms. This helped me to identify the options I wanted to model. I decided I wanted to depict a regiment at the beginning of the period allowing my chaps to wear the dashing Tarleton helmet and I wanted them to be in breeches rather than campaign grey overalls. Much smarter! So here is something that I wish I had before I started. An analysis of the parts on the "Trooper Sprue" The other reason for choosing the early period was the much simpler "Tolman" tunic which has a lot less braid. There is also an option for Regiments serving on warmer climes the "Tropical Tin Helmet" was used. The horses are very straightforward and yet quiet clever. You get a sprue with three left sides and three right sides and you can combine any left with any right which (if my fingers and thumbs don't deceive me) gives you nine different horse poses. There is also a command sprue which gives you two figures and two horses. So with four lots of three (hosses and doods) gives a total of fourteen figures. Quite enough to be going on with. So I have assembled the first three troopers and horses and here is one of them. Needs a little bit of seem smoothing but otherwise pretty good in this cruel close up (remember the soldier stands at about 3cm tall. Don't expect daily updates on here. I have lost my modelling bench to my son and daughter-in-law between residences and this is being done on my work desk in the front room which the Fun Police Officer insists is tidied away each evening. Tally ho.
  4. Some years ago, I started a project to model some vehicles from the fighting in France in 1944, but like many projects time and a change of interests overtook it, and it was abandoned. However, the nagging urge to model the period remains. This time, I’ve moved up a bit in scale, and down a bit in detail, with the intention of using some of the vehicles manufactured for war gamers. This enables me to indulge my bodging style of “detailing “, or at least, adding fiddly bits. First up, an Italeri M10: M10 Tank Destroyer by Jon Gwinnett, on Flickr M10 Tank Destroyer by Jon Gwinnett, on Flickr M10 Tank Destroyer by Jon Gwinnett, on Flickr These are intended as robust quick build kits, and without my bodging would easily go together in an hour or less.
  5. Hi folks, I've had a bit of a gap in the middle owing to family holiday, work, etc. but I've finally finished the skeletons I started at the very end of January. They're Games Workshop 28mm models, and they're a bit long in the tooth now. There's nothing really wrong with them but they don't have quite the poses and detail of the newer stuff. The biggest issue is that as they're designed to rank up on square bases they have rather restricted poses, so they're not a very diverse unit. I've tried to build in a bit of variety with the various optional parts, and have some spears aloft and some down low doing the stabbing. The command group (champion, standard bearer and musician) are quite characterful, especially the musician's ludicrous horn. I was a bit worried about attaching the shields at the end, but they had decent gluing surfaces so I was able to scrape some paint away and fix them in place with solvent glue. I think my favourite is the skeleton with the coffin-lid shield and half of his skull missing. They're all painted roughly the same way - Alclad primer, Tamiya acrylics for the basic bone colour, Citadel paints for almost everything, Alclad varnish and Citadel metallics with some Vallejo Liquid Metal colours for the brightest highlights. The metals are quite shiny but the diffuse lighting kills that a bit, I'll have to take some pictures on black and see how that looks. NB: The bases are inspired by Padley Gorge near Sheffield where we used to live. It's not exactly a tribute but I remember the mossy rocks and autumn leaves fondly. Hopefully I can develop that a bit if I do some matching scenery. Thanks for looking, and to those who commented on the WIP thread, it's always helpful to get another pair of eyes on these things: Cheers, Will
  6. Hi all, My local GW in Wellington was giving away witch elves (or aelves if you like) at the start of the month for a "paint club" activity. I built mine ASAP and then put off painting her until the last week. It turns out I missed the deadline for handing in because I didn't know when it was, but I did get her finished off at 11.36pm on November the 30th. I think I was a bit embarrassed by all the skin and that put me off starting to be honest, but having got some basic colours on there I started enjoying myself and the whole thing took a pleasant week of evenings. I left the hair separate which made access a lot easier, but otherwise assembled and painted everything in one go including the base. There was some fiddly brush work required to reach the various areas occluded by the arms and legs, but it wasn't too bad. I stuck to a cold palette and made her skin very pale (Pallid Wych Flesh!) shaded with red and turqoise. Even the slightly warm colours like the reds have purple in the shadows to cool them down. The base follows on from that and I considered adding snow but thought I wanted the skin and hair to be the lightest things. Unusually for me, I painted the face really early on because I was scared of getting it wrong. It's taken a while and I think there's still too much definition on the right cheek, and the eyes are a bit wide and surprised-looking, but mostly it works. The '80s make-up was fun but I might leave that off next time as an interim version with just skin shading made her look really strung out and a bit scarier. She's painted with a relatively small selection of colours - mostly white primer with thin contrast paints over the top, Pallid Wych Flesh and white ink for highlighting and blending the skin, and lots of glazes of very thin contrast to shade it. The metals are mostly GW "fancy" metals which are a bit brighter and finer than their older colours. I admit I rushed those a bit to finish in time - painting metallics at night is hard because the artificial light makes them look better than they do in a light box. I need to get a turntable to show the highlights moving around really I have built the Underworlds warband for the Daughters of Khaine (which has a half-snake Melusai, among other things) so I'll have to see about repeating this scheme across those at some point. Cheers, Will
  7. More lockdown wargames figures, this time some cavalry. They are Perry Miniatures French Guard Lancers converted to Lancers of Berg. This involved removing unwanted epaulettes and cords. The elite squadron also had head swaps to give them hussar style fur caps. 20200425_172724 As always thanks for looking
  8. A modeller pal was clearing his workroom and found these guys in a tin, he remember painting them and not being happy and so they languished for 20 plus years. I was gifted them and after stripping the Humbrol off them tried again. I have the Dads Army characters as well but they were well coated in paint and varnish so are taking some time to strip. They bring back happy memories of watch the show with my Dad, on our black and white TV. I have watched the re-runs with my son and we both enjoyed them. Timeless characters, so well written and acted . I hope to paint the rest in the next few weeks. The new Warlord figures as painted by @Jim Wasley are much nicer castings and he has done a grand job on them.
  9. I painted a figure for one of the players in our D&D game, this metal Highlander from Reaper Miniatures. But I like the idea of having a mounted option for the same figure available if needed. So I picked up the plastic version of the figure and converted it to fit her steed, in this case a huge stag also from Reaper. I'm no sculptor, I have mad respect for real sculptors. My humble efforts were done with green stuff putty and look ok unless they're photographed up close 😬 I'll smooth out things after a coat of primer.
  10. My painting style and love of acrylics are both entirely down to years of painting Games Workshop figures for various armies in just about every game they've produced. I've tried to do a couple of stand alone figures before but I always get bogged down trying to make them look like the ones in White Dwarf or on GW's own website. This time I have a time limit and you're all watching, so I have to make a decent stab at finishing it - there's three in the box but they're quite big so I'm only attempting one for this GB. Speaking of which, this is the box. Not much of a clue there as to what they are - Tyranids are a race of aliens, who basically harvest every life form they come across to recycle their genetic material to make new Tyranids - something like a cross between the creature from Alien and a swarm of locusts. Nice In game terms these boys are heavy infantry. In model terms they're still the old multi-part plastic kits having not been replaced by the newer resin models with far fewer parts. This is the sprue: Given unlimited time and a lot more talent, this is what I'd be looking to turn out. It's still a target, let's see how close I can get. Andy Xenomorph for hire
  11. Another Battalion finished, this one is the Lieb regiment. Again mild conversions from Perry plastic Austrians A couple of Light Infantrymen have photo-bombed the parade. Thanks for looking
  12. To support the chaps I already posted I did some heavy weapons. The real BEF would probably have thought such an amount of support would have been luxury. Matilda I and Vickers MMG 3 inch mortar I am hoping to have a game with another local gamer in the garden next weekend. We can social distance with care so it should be ok if the weather improves. Thanks for looking.
  13. This weeks batch of lockdown painting. First up are two brigade commanders, one Westphalian, the other from Berg, Perry miniatures metals with converted plastic foot chaps 20200517_160010[1] I'm hoping to start playing Chain of Command after the lockdown so I added a few extra figures to the small 1940 British forces I had. 20200517_160154[1] Warlord Miniatures this time. I think they are lovely castings and were a pleasure to paint. 20200517_160209[1] 20200517_160241[1] I also have a Vicker Machine gun team to finish and have a Vickers Mk VI on the way. Thanks for looking
  14. I'm catching up after a spurt of modelling this week after a lot of lockdown DIY. These are some miniatures by The Assault Group I picked up at the Hammerhead show. Really nice figures to work with and I even painted the eyes in as the detail was so well moulded. 20200502_112558[1] Thanks for looking
  15. More lockdown painting. 20200420_194703[1] by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/15218468 Slightly converted from Perry 28mm Austrians 20200420_194734[1] by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/152184681@N02
  16. For some reason I cant get Flickr to load to the Forumso I'm trying something else h That seems to have worked.
  17. With the enforced social distancing, I've had some time to work on my newest project, the 26th Division of the Grande Armee. These chaps are the 1st Battalion of the 8th Westphalians. Basically they are half a box of the latest Perry plastics. Thanks for looking not sure why the photos aren't posting I'll try again later
  18. My second major unit of my new force, the 2nd Battalion , 1st Kleve-Berg infantry. For a change I used the newish Citadel Contrast paints for the main uniforms. Tye chaps on the left were painted in the said paint over a white undercoat, the chaps on the left use my usual technique of Vallejo white over a black undercoat. The faces and hands a of the left hand base are also contrast paint. Not convinced but I'm going to stick with the Contrast paint and have bought dark Blue and Dark Green for further units. Thanks for looking.
  19. My latest project is to build an army of 1812 to fight my mates Russians. I didn't fancy doing French again and whilst my 1815 army, especially the heavy cavalry, is fine I wanted something more colourful and unusual so I settled on the 26th Division of the 9th Corps. It has lots of German allies and not even the odd Frenchman here are the first draft. basically a box of the new Perry french 1807 -1812 figures with a few metal command ansome metal artillery. By adding a few metal command figures I get two line battalions and a skirmishing unit from a single box. !st Battalion, !st Berg Line. Berg Artillery
  20. I have finished (for the time being at least) my Confederate Wargame army with these two final regiments. Basically it is the remaining two thirds of a box of plastic figures with a few extra metals to add a little uniqueness out the units. There are enough arms in the box to do them all as marching or charging. I used both poses again to make them a bit different The only problem is that my army fitted into a single 'Really Useful Box' These two mean I need another box and then these guys will be sliding around. I fear that more figures will follow.....
  21. A pre Christmas shopping expedition with SWMBO to Sheffield allowed me 10 minutes in the local wargames shop, nothing grabbed my attention but an upcoming New Year game of ACW meant I ended up with a box of Perry Rebs. With a bit of padding with a couple of metals will give me 3 regiments, the first is now finished along with the Brigade command base. I'm planning a new Napoleonic force for a potential demonstration game at various local wargames show, Just need to get paid after Christmas.
  22. Getting into uncharted territory now, I have exactly zero wargames figures to paint. I've never been in this position in 40 years of gaming and even worse I have no plans for any new armies or even units! first up is a Confederate gun crew running up the gun. lastly, a unit of Papal swordsman to round off my Condottieri project. Both armies have seen action in the last two months, so I'm not been short of tabletop action. Tomorrow is the re-fight of the Battle of the River Plate, using the venerable but brilliant Fletcher Pratt rules, as it is almost 80 years ago to the day. I'm HMNZS Achilles.
  23. Hi Guys, After coming away from Partizan with a few boxes of British Napoleonic infantry and cavalry, I thought I'd have a go at painting some infantry. Now, I'm quite used to painting 6mm, 15mm for wargaming and 1/72 for my aircraft/ boats but I can't remember doing anything with 28mm, so this will push my boundaries some what. These figures are not going to reach a wargaming table but are for display only. I was going to display the whole box set but I'm leaning towards showing them in groups so as to cover as many different aspects as possible, so I have decided to single out the rifle figures. I plan on keeping the heads separate to make painting easier, as with the backpacks but I might modify them slightly so as to make them look different. These four chaps are not going to cut it on their own, so... ...got them some buddies, these are Perry Miniatures. And... you've got to have some boss men, Perry's command set. Now, I don't know where I'm truly going with this but the idea is to paint half as the 60th Rifles from the Peninsula War and the other half as the 95th from Waterloo. I like... the look of this flashy sod, so I might just start with him. So, their you have it. If their is anything I should know, just shout, preferably before I've done. Comments and critique always welcome. Oh, these will NOT be fast, these will be fill in jobs, so don't expect fast and furious stuff. Stuart
  24. The real world has been interrupting my modelling recently, my wife had a successful operation to remove a lump, the garden is under some sort of control for the time being and work has taken a turn for the better, though that means time away from home. So very little has been completed, these two bits being the sum total of my completions. The cardinal is either blessing the the blooming big gun or telling them they are doing it wrong. You guess is as good as mine. I really like the figure holding his back, he looks like he has put a shift in.
  25. Hi folks, Games Workshop recently re-released a building kit that I wanted to buy first time around but couldn't, so this time I took the plunge. As usual, it's chunky, quite dear for what it is, and characterful. And like most GW scenery kits the fit isn't exactly immaculate. The kit in question is Skullvane Manse, now called a Warscryer Citadel. It's a sort of wizard's observatory perched on top of/beside a big rock, and as you might be able to see from the Standard Skeleton, it's a good foot tall: Cleaning up and assembling the twenty-odd parts took most of the weekend, and I've spent a couple of evenings after that filling seams and covering up some of the moulded detail with Miliput. Some smaller seams were filled with CA. For reference, this is what it's supposed to look like: More pictures on the Games Workshop site I thought the big stone tower looked a bit precarious on the cantilevered wooden platform, so I left that off and will make it up as a separate building later. I also added a bit more bracing from Evergreen strip, textured with a saw blade. The spattered-looking Miliput was thinned with water and stippled on to cover up some of the areas where the direction of the moulding meant there wasn't much surface detail on the rock. The aim is to put it on a small scenic base, but I'd better paint it first otherwise access is going to be very tricky. Cheers, Will
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