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    Darlington, UK
  • Interests
    Early Armour, WW2 Armour and Air, Sci Fi and Railways

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  1. Until I saw "The Expanse", B5 was my favourite ever SciFi universe and I would love a good model of an Omega Class destroyer. My fear with a reboot is that they re-imagine the spaceships. As said above the BSG reboot was very good indeed.
  2. Bristol 401 at Wolsingham Country Show
  3. Hans! Hans! We're stuck can you give us a push? (sound of muffled laughter from inside the tank) Lovely model.
  4. Ah certainly brings back the memories. One of which was that didn't the tracks used to react with the plastic of the wheels and gradually dissolve them? Pz4 was (as I remember) distinctly more refined than a lot of the range. Thanks for posting
  5. I'm seeing Babylon 5 universe there, could credibly be an Earthforce asset Cool. My attempt never seem to look anything other than a pile of bits!
  6. I think that's a very decent model. A shame about the reaction with the wash. I would recommend that you switch to using all acrylics. Vallejo is my "go to" but others may recommend other brands and you can also use cheap "Artist's" acrylic when weathering. By using acrylic (and at least at first) sticking to a single manufacturer you should not have to worry about paint reacting but the other thing to watch for is to make sure you allow your paints to dry AND cure before applying washes. Understand how paints work. Modern paints are made up of pigment, binder and solvent. As a paint dries the solvent evaporates in an acrylic this is water. This leaves the pigment and the binder. The binder is the sticky stuff that makes the pigment stick to whatever it is you have painted. You need this to set too. This is the difference between "touch-dry" and fully cured. Once a paint has cured then most solvents will not attack it (ish). Binders can however take some time to fully cure. This means that if you paint over them before it has fully cured the solvent in your next paint can dissolve the binder in the paint layer beneath and the paint is lifted or mixes with the new layer. There are other advantage to acrylic. No unpleasant smells to upset the domestic authorities. Kinder to your brushes. If you are using sable, squirrel or other naturally derived brushes the oils and solvent in enamel paints will attack the hairs over time and they will lose their "springiness" making the fine tips snap off. If you decide to prime your models before base coating consider using Artist's Gesso. Cheap as chips and can be applied with a brush. It goes on like gloop but shrinks to form a flexible skin over the model. The other easy alternative is automotive primers such as Halford's in the UK. You just need somewhere you can use the spray can without upsetting people, by their nature aerosols tend to go everywhere so do it outside in warm weather. You can buy modelling specific primers from Games Workshop (and others) but they are expensive and no better than the automotive stuff.
  7. Hi Bertie, I like it are the "desert rats" old GW "Skaven"? They look a lot like them! I like the model very much, good weathering on the tank and natural poses on the figures.
  8. Well it took a while to get it over the line but it is finally finished Finished model including some more photographs using the LED panel as a background Thanks for the kind comments and to those who followed me.
  9. I must say that this is a lovely kit to build, perfect fit on every part, delightful detail and even in 1/72 makes an impressive model. I love these old Soviet "monster" tanks, completely ineffective in the war they found themselves in but a fitting to salute to the brave men who went to war in them. A quick word about the photographs. Inspired by a "making of" documentary about Disney's "The Mandalorian" I found that they were using large LED panels to put the scenery behind the actors rather than Green Screen so I used an LED computer monitor and searched for Russian scenery in Google. The first shot is a traditional village and the second two are of the rolling steppes. I placed the model on a scenic base and using Photoshop I adjusted the colour balance to better match the background in each case and then blurred the edge of the base to make it blend better. It's my first serious attempt at this and I'm pretty pleased with the way the photos have turned out. The scenic base could do with more texture in terms of perhaps some bushes and perhaps some tall grass. My next idea is to create some "set dressing" for the base with removable walls, fences, tree trunks, etc. There was a WIP thread for those of you who might want to see a semi-naked T-35 and some bits of plastic! WIP Thread
  10. Love the patination you have achieved on this model. Have you considered faking antiques as a career?
  11. As you say all part of learning. I'm not being hard on myself just amused at even bothering to try! It was fun seeing the F15s and a lovely day out, what more could you want?
  12. I was in Wensleydale a few weeks ago and was treated to a fly past of four USAF F15s very nice of them. I've never seen any fast jets up there before and it was a beautiful day. Unfortunately all I had with me was my Fuji XE3 with an 18-55 lens. Not ideal for aviation photography but I had a go... Not only is the aircraft out of focus (the camera has grabbed the old gas light on the side of the station building) even with the zoom fully extended to 55mm it is little better than a vaguely F15 shaped smudge. I can't be bothered to correct the vertical in PP even! I tried, I failed...
  13. Can't take my eyes off the seascape. Stunning. I'm going to have to go back and look at the warship now! Bravo sir! Bravo!
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