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Rumblestripe

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    Darlington, UK
  • Interests
    Early Armour, WW2 Armour and Air, Sci Fi and Railways

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  1. Thanks for the kind words. I don't think Sally is one of the figures? The figures are available from Discworld Emporium (alternatively from the Polish Manufacturer) I have just ordered Sgt Angua and Captain Carrot (sadly Cheery Littlebottom was out of stock) and added Giamo Casanunda. I have Nobby and Sgt Colon on the workbench and will no doubt work my way though other figures. Once I have the Watch figures I will be going for the Witches series next. All the figures are based on the artwork of Paul Kidby, they sometimes appear slightly cheaper on EBay if you keep your eyes peeled. GNUTerryPratchett
  2. My word it's been a long time since I painted those two figures. I have started on three of The Watch figures (not the execrable TV series version). First on to his base is His Grace, The Duke of Ankh, Commander Sir Samuel "Sam" Vimes, to give him his full array of titles. The base is a resin casting bought on Ebay (IIRC) and just to show how nice it is and to give an idea of scale here is a view from above with a UK1p coin for scale The base could do with a little touch up here and there where the black has strayed onto the cobbles and that will get done now that I've seen the photos! Hopefully I can regale you with Nobby Nobbs and Fred Colon rather quicker than the gap here. Fred is probably half done and Nobby is half started...
  3. Vallejo 828 Woodgrain over grey, beige or brown 828 is a glaze and simply drag it along the length of the tool to give an impression of woodgrain.
  4. On the subject of Bandai kits (specifically thinking of the Tumbler) has anyone bought direct from Japan recently? I understand that Customs duties are now on items valued above £130, is that right?
  5. I agree with the estimable gentleman, with the proviso that you must make sure that your acrylic paint is fully dry, not just touch dry before applying the oil wash. To get all technical paints are composed of three (main) elements, pigment, binder and solvent (yes it is more complicated than that I know). Pigment is the coloured substance and the binder is the stuff that forms a film of pigment. Solvent is the stuff that make it runny. As a paint dries firstly the solvent evaporates, this happens quite quickly in acrylic paint, more slowly with oil based, leaving behind pigment and binder. Touch dry. The binder then sets. Fully dry. At this point you have a film of bound pigment. Depending on the solvent you use in the next paint you apply the paint should not be affected. Try it on a test piece before wrecking a model that you have spent many hours on. The other alternative is to use acrylic washes. You can get very good acrylic washes by adding a "Flow Enhancer" to your diluted paint (I use Windsor & Newton).
  6. A really very nice build. I'm not a fan of "chipping" on models, I often think that the end result looks more like a well played with die cast toy than a representation of a real life vehicle, You have got the balance perfectly right for me. I love the staining from rust spots running down the vehicle and the use of colour is superb. Bravo, sirrah! Hat duly tipped. Jolly good show old chap!
  7. Until I built a Sherman model I didn't realise just how much variation there was! This is very useful.
  8. I think I've stumbled across the inspiration for your model... (Just a little messing about on Photoshop!) Wonderful figure modelling.
  9. I agree with your call, I don't like to see the Swastika and I will avoid putting it on models especially if they are to be displayed. Incidentally did she sail with those markings? Would seem like an odd thing to do (I don't really know much other than the bare facts about her). Impressive model, nicely finished.
  10. Yes, that was my point. A rather well known book and TV series at that! It seems odd to choose the same name for a book on matters military. There is a thematic commonality with that book in that it documents the experiences of a single unit from D-Day to VE Day. I confess that the attrition of tank crews is not something I was really aware of. From memory the Sherwood Rangers suffered something like 150% casualties among tank crews between those dates. Of course that is a statistical oddity because some crews did make it all the way and some were "merely" wounded. A sobering read for armour enthusiasts and one I heartily recommend.
  11. I'd be interested to see the references for that. I know Bovington has (or had) both Panther and Jagdpanther painted in red oxide with a disruptive pattern applied over the top. In truth the concept of a "correct colour" on any tank but particularly on one produced during war conditions is liable to be elusive at best.
  12. Wasn't that reddish brown colour simply the red oxide primer on late war KTs? I believe some Panthers also left the factory in primer with a camouflage pattern applied over the top? Vallejo German Red Brown Primer As a primer I doubt that it would be very consistent from day to day even as it left the factory so I wouldn't worry about it too much. I think Tamiya XF-52 would be a good match too
  13. Lovely modelling, Two suggestions 1. As suggested you need the vehicles to sit in the muck not on it. I would suggest that you try to settle the vehicles into the scenery if you are using some sort of filler for your road/mud just take the model and waggle it into the mud and then either remove so that it can be replaced there once the mud has set or leave to set in situ. 2. The figures are too evenly spaced out, people (pre Pandemic) tend to clump together, so you would probably see a couple of friends chatting as they walked or perhaps an NCO having a word with dawdler. Great modelling though
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