chris

I gave him the link to ipmsstockholm either , but was unsure of what paints Fujimi used .. ie gunze sanyo , tamiya , or mr color

I stuck 3 old tamiya lids under work surface ( using superglue) in a triangle with 4th in centre.when stuck remove 4th lid , and just pop jar into hole and twist ... works every time , cheaper too

Send your e-mail to my p.m i will scan both the revell instructions and the tamiya

i just hand brush using fine point.Decals suck , personally never use them on stores as they are always too bright and in real life they dont have "sharp " edges to rings .

yep , i cant see any problems

have you tried making your own ?.. get an old jam jar lid put a lighter underneath so that the lid heats up , then get your standard kit wheel and hold upright whilst pressing down slighty onto the lid . hey presto ..weighted wheels with the bulge

Hi Gem .. it is easier to paint some parts on the sprue especially the interior i.e joystick , rudder pedals etc . I also would recommend buying decent brushes (sable) not man made bristles , as the sable brushes are much better for brush painting .I have an airbrush but as yet not used it. The scale i build are mostly 1/32 and out of the box although i am no pro modeller you can achieve excellent results with brushing.I would recommend lifecolor or xtracrylix acrylic paints thinned with a little water ,using these i have never suffered with "brush strokes" .... xtracrylics are gloss finish and can place decals straight over without lacquering 1st , then depending on finish you can seal with matt,satin,or gloss finish all over . Lifecolor is matt and best to gloss over then affix decals ,afterwards seal with final coat of your choice of finish To fill thin gaps i use vallejo 400 plastic putty , or larger gaps squadron fast drying white putty

I didnt have much choice , they were the only decals supplied in both kits .. i did make a dagger with viet nam camo and did a couple of voodoos . 1 in nam camo , other silver /red .. pictures long gone , only have 1 pic left of voodoo , partically built .. will send via e-mail .. oh , you u collect instructions from kits as i have many to give away

Finished them both Julien .... hmmm where did the blue strip in intake come from .. doesnt show it on my plans

All the model i built are brush painted with lifecolor http://s13.photobucket.com/albums/a255/chris_uk43/

Hi Julien The wings were fine , just one side was a small tram line (deep paint seeped in and wouldnt cover).. weapons bay closed ( am building for a friend what he says goes ..lol ) yep its the original monogram kit .. serial # 5828 century series as was the dagger ..serial #5827 , both all over grey

I use lifecolour 98% of the time and no problems , i also add water to thin it , i brushpaint so i dont really know about airbrushing it yet , just get a good quality natural brush ( soft ) and not man made bristles , i have never suffered with brush strokes/marks on models , i only use yellow and white as is , to cover as these are the main colours that dont cover well in any acrylic , if using these 2 colours i recommend the white primer , as far as i am concerned there are no better acrylics out there , Xtracryix come a good 2nd .. water to thin too and also airbrushes well

Love the gladiator .. i want one in 1/32 and a swordfish Nice to see old planes instead of jets , they just have a certain caracter whereas jets bore the hell outa me

Nice one Jules , i am currently building the same kit ( i assume its kit # 5828) and making the same as box lid .. also did a F102 in vietnam camo scheme a while back , just finishing up another F 102 in all over grey ( monogram kit # 5827 ) must say nice kits . The fuselage on my 106 went together with just a little filler , as just used a little where the fuselage joins the wings and also where the 2 parts of the wings join together , i agree about the cockpit , just not worth putting extra detail or resin in as it is just covered up , to be honest i think 1/48th is too small for detailed extras .. if its not in the kit it aint worth havin'. not sure wether to build with airbrake open or closed

I used thin plastic sheet to cover seams and glued over so only a little filling was needed , just cut sheet as same size as both sides and glue onto one half then when dry glue other half together ... no seams and little filling .. much cheaper that aftermarket rip offs and you cant see hardly any difference

As far as i know it was grey as it was wooden structure .

Looking for 1/48th vietnam decals for invader , not sure if any available or even made , i dont want to do the korean war version any help would be appreciated

Dont use it for adding weight , tried this once on an old kit and it melted the plastic. I guess it reacted with the moulding somehow , dont use it now in anyway shape or form on plastic

I wasnt saying building an early version Academy into wittmans late version , as i know its wrong , i was just commenting on the kits , i would imagine that there maybe a few details missing on the kit ,he chose to build a wittman version , when there is a wittman special kit available .. there is also a late version tiger by academy ,with better details

AFV does a special Wittman version .. kit # AF35S27 with all the various markings for his campaigns ( 4 different markings) as i am building now , i personally am using milliput for the zimmerit coating and Airwaves part # AEC35091 zimmerit punches .... i must say that the Academy kit has more detail than the AFV offering and has individual track links instead of cheap rubber one peice linkthat AFV kits have , also has interior detail whereas the overpriced AFV doesnt.Overall the AFV is pretty basic kit which offers fairly good results ,If you want a more detailed kit ,then try Academys' offering

So where are the decent planes , or was this just a modern global warming show and no props ?

Try LIFECOLOR and XTRACRYLIX (hannants own) .. excellent for brushing , told excellent for spraying too .. more choice than humbrol and VALLEJO matt satin and gloss varnish

Well i have the complete range of Humbrol enamels 200+( some are old ,but unopened ) and just started to use them and no problems with finish

Looking good , i assume its 1/32 scale ? looking forward to seeing the alcad applied as i have never used it b4

hopefully your local hobby shop has these , they are packets of poly sheets about 3" X 2" , can buy different thicknesses , just cut with scalpel or scissors into strips or rectangles etc and just use model cement to fix