Lewis95

Looks great! Though I'm curious as to why you Flory parts individually (recalling your past builds here) as surely that means none gets around the joins of parts (where pipes are attached to the fuselage for example) or do you spread the grime from the part?

Here's hoping to further updates!

One of the main reasons I dread opening a bomber kit. The bloody glazing. Literally. As I'll undoubtedly stab my finger at least 4 times.

I sense there is much to learn here.... Will you be 3D printing parts for this bird?

Ooh. That Hurri looks like quite the tidy little build!

Oooh gotta love a Sunderland! I, like you, seem to have an affinity for big kits but not the space for them. Still, I have 72nd Bear H and a Valkyrie on the shelf after purchasing them both last year.

Aye, I'll come back to it eventually when the mojo returns for it. It's not the hardest fix, just incredibly frustrating. Thanks bud, providing I don't start another nigh impossible kit, all should be dandy Merry Christmas to you too mate.

Builds dead folks. One of the transparencies took a ping into the bin, lovingly left there by my Mrs. Aforementioned bin is also full of mucky tissues due to a sick cat so like hell am I rooting through it. Sure, a single transparency going missing isn't the end of the world but I am beyond wee weed off as every step forward with getting into this kit, I hit a step backwards. The rest of the kit almost followed the transparency so it's now been shoved back into the box and I'll work on something else for awhile til I fancy coming back to deal with it. Sorry all, no Daks this week.

Impressive work!

This is the thing, sure a time ago Klear would of been the gold standard but Klear is no longer made like it was back when you would of first used it. There's a massive difference (to me) when it comes to someone who's been brought up on Klear as a gloss coat vs someone getting into the hobby actively looking for a flooring product due to costs. I've seen bottles of original Klear go for upwards of £20 at a model auction. At the end of the day, it's down to the modeller and I don't judge those who do use it but ultimately, XYZ brand flooring product isn't the original Klear many know and love. Would I use original Klear if I had it? Yes. Would I tell someone to use a flooring product if they didn't have original Klear? No.

One that I picked up from @The Spadgent was a polystyrene tray (nicked from work), with toothpicks (pence in the supermarket) with crocodile clips crushed onto the tip end (£3-£5 online) instead of the 8 item specialty holders from Tamiya and Gunze (£20-£25). Another self learned tip, don't buy materials in hobby stores. A pack of Revell droppers has about 8 for £5 but I picked up a box of 100 for the same price from a medical supplies store, along with gradient medicine cups (flexi shot glasses basically) for £3/4 for 50.

I tend to use Mr S 500 for most seam lines these days. Can be easily sanded and polished up to reveal imperfections. I also use PPP for non-load bearing seams as I can wipe that into place with a damp cotton bud. The downside to PPP is that it always will react to water. You can use this to your advantage though and fill a seam with PPP before going to bed and wipe it down the following night.

Another tuppence, I haven't had the need to check on my Mr Surfacers (I have several) as they haven't thickened BUT I have read in several places that when they get a bit thicker, they can still be worked with fairly easily. Some even prefer to take the lid gunk instead of from the jar for this purpose. Not sure why but I think it may be because it's more manageable. PPP - I've had 1 tube die on me within 6 months, I have another and tend to use a damp toothpick or a metal dental pick dipped in water now my 2nd tube has gummed up a bit. Still works great with this method as you hydrate what you use, as you use it.

The use of flooring products in modelling always baffles me as a bit of an idiosyncrasy. £60 kit, £50 of AM of which you'll see about 25% of, £20 of paint required for that kit , £8 on a specialist weathering thing for that one vent on said kit, £6 on modelling gloss you will use on every project nope too expensive, use a flooring product. I get the whole "it's cheaper" side of things but it still baffles me. I've not had good results off of Humbrol Gloss but I have had fantastic results with Aqua Gloss. The massive upside being that you can't accidentally muddle Alclad Aqua Gloss in the same way as you can finding a replacement for Klear. I've seen "horror stories" about muddled flooring products elsewhere before, up to a fully melted canopy so it's not something I would personally risk on. If it were the days of the original Klear, then I may well be tempted.

I personally wasn't impressed with the Vallejo Poly primer. It clogged and sprayed like an absolute sod. I tend to prefer Tamiya Fine Surface primer these days as my last coat before painting. Gets a good bite from what I can tell but Halfords does well in a pinch and I try to keep my Halfords supplies topped up for this reason.