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About FZ6

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  • Birthday 04/22/1976

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  1. The Tiger Moth also featured in The English Patient as well.
  2. That's a great photo! There looks to be a reinforcing strip below the hatch where the gun mount is fitted. A nice touch to add to the model. I don't think airfix have added an extended boarding ladder as well so another nice feature that could be added.
  3. There is always a set of FOD covers if you wish to save effort and expense. https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/QB32089 Cheers, Mark
  4. I saw that Jadlam got these on Friday, By the time I looked they had sold out and I clicked on notify me when they got them back in stock. I got an email later that day to say they had them in stock. I ordered one on Saturday morning and it arrived today. It's a great kit and the plastic feels different to recent airfix kits I've purchased. I think it's a change for the better. I need to highlight a serious issue with this kit though. I don't think you can just build one! You're making great progress here and this is fast becoming the go to Beaufort thread for anyone considering th
  5. I have the Italeri and Hasegawa Jaguars and prefer the Hasegawa kit, although I think all of them need some work. The main downside to the Hasegawa kit is that the cockpit and wheel bay detail is basic or none existent. Also, it doesn't come with drop tanks in the more readily available boxing. Freightdog do some resin ones though. The spine is oversized on the Italeri kit which is the main issue and could affect the decals in this area. As recommended above, photocopy the decals, cut them out and try them on the Hasegawa Kit to see if there will be any fit issues if you can.
  6. If you're buying an Eduard set I'd advise you to go for set 32530. It's much better value for money than 33230. It costs a little more but you get three frets of etch instead of one fret of colour etch. Oh and the Master Models Pitot Tubes and AOA probe are nice but not too expensive.
  7. There is very little difference between the kit nose and the Flightpath nose that I can see it’s a little shorter and a bit more curved with a small hole in the end. oh and it doesn’t have the small bulge on the underside that tamiya have you fit which I don’t think is relevant to the RAF Phantom I wish to build. To get the outer parts of the intake to blend into the inner parts, I stick strips of plasticard to the outer parts where it needed blending to the fuselage to Match the profile. I then used lots of milliput to blend in the intake to the openings taking care that the split
  8. Q-M-T have some resin exhausts sold as replacements for the Revell Phantom which may be worth considering. I have a set for mine and they look much better. Both the Eduard ones and the Aires ones appear to be undersized. Reskit also have a Phantom nozzle set as a future release and going on experience of other products of theirs I've purchased, these may be worth considering as well. I've also purchased a fligthpath corrected nose. Master Pitot tube, eduard seats and Q-M-T set portraying the detail inside some auxillary intake doors. The air intakes are not very good an
  9. Thanks @Alvaro Rodriguez Your advice on supports and settings will prove really useful so thanks for taking the time to share this. I've already been experimenting with pedestals like the one you mentioned and it makes clean up a bit easier. I'm, going to try a few methods and figure out what works best. Before I print my wheel, I'm going to have to design a new variant because I've noticed the Falkland era tractor I wish to portray has a narrower tyre, different tread pattern and even slightly different wheel rims to the ones I've built. Still, it will be good practice
  10. That looks really impressive. Designing an aircraft is next on my to do list of learning Fusion 360. Regards, Mark
  11. Hi @Alvaro Rodriguez thanks for your comments on the wheel, I'll give it a try and see how it works and I'll let you know. How do you orientate your wheels on the print bed when you make them and where do you fit supports? I plan to add supports to the back side of the wheel that won't be seen. As an alternative to the methods above we've tried, this video is quite interesting. It covers the methods we've tried for patterning but also has a neat trick of creating the patterns in the CAM area which is worth investigating at some point.
  12. Hi Frank, welcome to the world of 3D printing. some impressive looking parts there. I started out the same and learned Fusion360 and was busy designing parts while waiting for the pre-ordered printer to be released. I’d put the hours in to learn it when Autodesk advised of changes to the free version and added the document limit. For a hobbyist, it’s not too great a problem. You can store as many archived drawings as you need to. When you reach your 10th drawing, you’ll need to right click on a file to archive it to be able to work on an 11th. You can
  13. I'm building mine as a GR.3 at the moment and am enjoying it so far. You've done a good job on this one. Thanks for sharing, Mark
  14. This looks great, thanks for sharing. I have acquired a few of these as they are quite cheap and have plans for them. With a bit of work, you've shown that with a bit of work this can turn into a great model. Mark
  15. I've designed my first wheel over the last couple of days and am pleased with it. I have a 1:48 Vickers Royal Navy Deck Tractor to go with My Harrier and I noticed that the treads on the kit tyres had no tread so I thought it would be a good opportunity to design some. I created my wheel by drawing a cross section of it and and using the revolve function to create the wheel shape. I then drew a section of the zigzag pattern on an offset plane and extruded it into the tyre to cut the pattern into it. I then used a circular pattern to make it go all the way round the wheel. You have
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