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Twobad

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About Twobad

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  • Website URL
    http://mbiqmodels.com

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    United Kingdom
  • Interests
    Any type of model really. I go through phases, but at heart I'm an aircraft man.

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  1. I have emailed them, but haven't got a reply yet.
  2. Ooh! Thanks for that. There are quite a few internal pictures I haven't seen before.
  3. I'm in the process of researching the SE5a for a future 1:8 build. I've obtained copies of the Haynes manual, the Windsock Datafile and James McCudden's memoir (which has at least convinced me I don't want to model the aircraft he obtained most of his victories in). I've also been swapping emails with the librarian at the Shuttleworth trust in the hope of securing some of the build photos from the restoration of their F.904. Can anyone suggest other technical references for the design? I'm hoping to find something that covers it in fine detail with details about the internal structure especially.
  4. Giy Gibson and his Dambuster Crew by Charles Foster. Good and interesting book. There's been lots written about Gibson but not so much about the crew that flew with him on the Dams Raid. This book is a potted biography of each of the crew. It's often forgotten that his crew only flew with him on that single operation (despite what is depicted in The Dambusters film) and Gibson didn't actually know them that well at all. In his own memoir he got names wrong and also incorrectly described the missions they were lost on. A good read, and has put into context a lot of what was contained in Gibson's own book.
  5. Twobad

    Hello!

    Welcome to the forum. I used to be a 1:35 armour type, but have drifted towards the dark (aircraft) side in recent years.
  6. I finally caved in after the other half vigorously encouraged me to go ahead. Now to get around to some proper research...
  7. I modelled it mainly to see if I could, then I printed it to see if I could. The results exceeded expectations in both cases. I was confident the 3D modelling would work, but wasn't sure the printing would. The fall back solution (not needed) was to use the 3D models to generate printable bending jigs to enable the pipes to be made using wire. The Packard drawing set is very good and errors are minimal. Experience with the drawing set lead me to have high confidence that the pipes would fit well if made to drawing. As an aside, prior to full 3D CAD models, the BAe Hawk that I worked on always had a "Wooden Hawk " which was a completely space representative full size mock-up built in wood. Even the computer machined bulkheads were machined in plywood as part of proving the CAM programs. The hydraulic pipework were designed by running them on the wooden mock-up and the results drawn in CAD. The pipes were then produced on the CAM bending machines and test fitted to the mock-up. It's all pure CAD/CAM now though.
  8. That Hurricane model is amazing! I've finally bitten the bullet and started to convert myself to Fusion. It is still deeply frustrating. What would take me 10 mins in AutoCAD can take hours at the moment. The biggest change, as you mentioned, is learning to do things the Fusion way and not the AutoCAD way. I am getting more proficient though. I've also ported all of my DWG files over into Fusion, but that has stripped out all of the layer structure which is annoying indeed. I'm just left with hundreds and hundreds of bodies. In fact it runs to 1000s in the main model. They all need to be grouped into components etc. 😭 As for the Merlin model: I am still struggling to find a braid that looks the right scale. I've tried numerous samples and solutions and none cut the mustard. I have a small box full of rejected parts on the shelf now. I might have to admit defeat and just go with the best that I have, but I really don't want to do that. One other alternative is teach myself to use Blender (no small task) and see if I can add a 3D texture to the designs and see how that comes out. I've avoided it up to now because of the effort required, and also because I'd like to plate the parts with real copper to match the individual sparkplug leads. By the time I've painted the conduits with conductive paint and plated over that, I suspect much of the fine detail will have been lost.
  9. It struggled a bit, and I ended up cheating tbh. The biggest cheat was not to include threads on bolts except where they were prominent such as on the Reduction gearbox. That's a focal point of the engine that people will look at closely, so the bolts have threads. Loading up the assembly stresses my little PC though. It takes 30s or so. For the other sections I have use greatly stripped down structures representing the interfacing parts to keep processing and memory requirements down. The complete model of the engine takes just over a minute to load, but I only use that for generating renders such as those at the beginning of this thread. The set-up for the Oil Pressure Pump is shown below. The red part is a section of the lower crankcase which the pump, and hydraulic pump drive cover, mounts on.
  10. I made a comment on the Facebook Phrozen users site that I cured my Phrozen Aqua Grey 8k prints for about 7 mins usually. One of the Phrozen moderators of the site posted that I needed at least 20 mins...
  11. I'm interested in trying to do pretty much the same thing on some CAD files that I have so I'll follow this with interest. From what research I've done so far Blender seems to be the goto solution for this. I did have a quick play with it, but there's a fairly steep learning curve to climb it would appear. Apparently Solidworks can also map textures to a surface, but I've not tried that. Fusion and AutoCAD can map textures but only visually for renders fromwhat I've found. It isn't a true 3D surface effect, just a picture applied to a smooth surface, the latter being what you get if you actually print the part. [Autodesk 'help' on 3D mapping in Fusion 360: https://www.autodesk.com/support/technical/article/caas/sfdcarticles/sfdcarticles/How-to-create-a-3D-texture-from-an-image-in-Fusion-360.html ] If you look closely at the Fusion render below you will see that there is a woven braid texture applied to the flexible ignition leads. I'd love to turn that into a true 3D pattern.
  12. There was a thread on printer heating not so long ago. You might find some of the replies useful.
  13. I think I might hive apple a go. I have some pear on the shelf here and it's a bit too dark.
  14. I'm still on the hunt for the correct braid for the ignition conduits. It's proving very elusive and despite trying 6 or 7 different types I still haven't found what I want, I've even been looking at bracelets etc to see if they might be cannibalised for the right material. I've still got a few ideas on how I might achieve the look I want but hope is fading tbh. Anyone know how to add 3D textures to STL files? Apparently you can do it in Blender and Solidworks, but not in AutoCAD of Fusion. Guess which ones I know how to use... In the interim I've knocked up a scale packing case. I've made it in stained spruce, and if I'm honest I'm not stunned by the look. Neither the colour or the scale of the grain is really what I was after, and it may get relegated to 'proof of concept' status. The whole affair is not helped by the fact that I am definitely not a cabinet maker. I've produced some coach bolts on my 3D printer for the case. They're painted a dark brown and then lightly dusted with graphite to try and give them a metallic feel. I'm also working on exactly how to mount the model on the stand. I was going to use real M1.4 nuts on threaded rod soldered into the adaptor plates, but the nuts don't look that good compared to the 3D printed ones on the model, and getting at some of them to tighten them up carries a very high risk of damaging the model. I think I'll chop them off short and epoxy them into the mounting points on the engine from below. I'll fix 3D printed nuts inserted from the top so it looks sensible. Below are the adapter plates being trial fitted. I'll blacken them once I've stopped messing about with them. I haven't decided exactly how I'll fix them to the frame yet either. It'd be nice if they were removable allowing the model to be separated from the stand should ever be necessary. However, trying to access any nuts under the support beams will be a nightmare so they might just get epoxied in and more dummy nuts and studs glued underneath.
  15. I keep my printer (Phrozen Sonic Mighty 12k) in the garage in a heated Creality enclosure. There's a small 35w thermostatically controlled Russell Hobbs heater in there which keeps the whole affair at a constant temp during printing. You can get both for under £100. Out of interest I've just done some temperature trials to see how the set-up works in the latest cold temps. It seems to do quite well, but what the heater calls 30°C clearly isn't at the print vat. It's more like 34° and that's a bit too warm. The change in garage temp was due to it being a sunny day.
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