Pouln

Looks fantastic. 👍

Didn’t see this before but catched up, since you restarted. Pretty amazing build. Looks great!

That does look really nice, Dan

I fully agrre with the others. This model looks really good. Well done!

I really like the greenstuff chrome, but not the airbrush version. It does not seem to give that wow-effect. For airbrush I really like the AK Superchrome. It dries reasonably quickly and after that you can touch it without damaging it. Really much better than molotov etc. Quite soon I will be uploading some pictures in my 8C2300 scale 1:4 build, where I used the Superchrome. Enjoy the trip to Montreal, Thierry

Hi Noel, well, actually this was started as a project for me to learn 3D design. I am using Shapr3D. Chose this because it didn’t have a steep learning curve like Fusion360 and, most important, it runs on my iPad Pro. So 90% of this was designed on the ipad. They now have ported to Mac and Windows, so I do use the windows version quite often too. Stepping over from ipad to windows and back goes seamless. Was it easy to start with something of this size? No, not really, but you learn as you go, make many mistakes, learn from them end correct them. And having the design is one thing, but I found that quite some components were simply not printable (too flimsy in the 1:8 scale, sometimes even in 1:4), so then it is back to the drawing table(t).

Thank you so much. Really appreciated.

Goodday to you all. Made some progress today with the painting of parts. Again I am using AK Xtreme Metals. Downside is that they are solvent based, but upside is that they spray very easily and dry very quickly. For Chrome spraying II use AK Super Chrome which also sprays very easily and after drying it permits handling of the parts (careful though, but then it doesn’t leave any marks). This is the best chrome paint for airbrush that I have seen, until now. So I have been working on the compressor. The following parts were done: Double flange connecting the compressor to the crank case. Used dark aluminium paint for it and brush painted the nuts with black (actually dark grey). After drying of the latter I drybrushed some metallics on the nuts. Then the brass gasket between the flange and the compressor was painted with brass colour. The compressor was painted with dark alu. A paper gasket was fitted at the other end and the cap was added, painted with bright aluminium to give some colour nuances. The latter also forms the base for the carburettor so carb was painted with aluminium and carb cover with brighter alu paint. In between the base and the carb I installed a gasket as well as between carb body and cover. Finally I added a mesh to the top of the cover and there is a breather at the top of the compressor cap that I first painted with alu paint and then I added chrome to the surround. Here are the pictures: If you look closely at the edge you may see that a serial number is inscribed into the edge of the compressor (near the flange). I really like how the embossed text on the cover came out: I also painted the crank case, blocks and heads. Combined with gaskets in between and partial block cover plates in place, you get this: On a reference photo II found that the front cylinder block had text inscribed in the surface. I replicated that, of course. The motor plate is moulded on the right “wing” of the engine and the number is inscribed just below that. Last item painted (with brown/black acrylics) is the exhaust That’s it for now. Quite some progress but also still lots to do. See you soon and thanks for watching.

That weathering makes all the difference, Robin. In these well used/raced cars, you cannot do without it.

Thank you, Dan. Much appreciated coming from you.

Goodday to you all. It is time for an update. I have started with the painting of components. I’m using AK’s Extreme metal paints, because they have an extensive selection of aluminium colors. Mainly, aluminium, pale alu, polished alu, dark alu and duraluminium. But first some other printed items. I was not really happy with my first design of the top coolant pipes. So I changed the design to give some more space between the cylinder head and the pipes and to make a more rounded corner. Here is a comparison of the two designs: The new design mounted (old design mounted can be seen in the previous post): I also designed the exhaust pipes: Printed they came out like so: I printed the brake components that attach to the gearbox: So now for the painted parts: Let’s start with the starter motor. It was designed in three parts. Painted main body in duraluminium. Assembled: the result: The dynamo with the axle connecting to the crank case including the flexible coupling: It comprises 6 parts (7 including the bearing cap, which is quite shiny: And the electrical connection box (2 parts): Combined resulting in: Still need to add the tiniest screws to fix the front plate and one on the main body. Next up are the oil and water pump with gaskets in place: I managed to get my Silhouette cutting machine going. I planned to use thick brown paper but that didn’t work as expected. I have some old photo paper, which is much less fibrous and gives a clean cut. Downside was that this paper is not thick enough so I ended up cutting every gasket twice and glueing them together. After that some dark brown ink to color the edges. Gasket between crank case and blocks and between blocks and heads (not coloured yet): That’s it for now. Soon I will add more pictures of painted parts. Do let me know what you think (positive or negative). I can handle that 😀 Thanks for watching.

Nicely done, Robin

Count me in. Love to see how you’ll execute this one, Dan

Beautiful model. Well executed.

Those hinges are cool. Well done!

Bit late to this “show” but I like what you have done. Cracking model

Terrible to hear that you had a fire in the house. I missed this thread back in ‘21, but now that you restarted the work, I will follow you. Great work sofar.

You’re getting there. I have found that printing of items like you are doing, often leads to problems because of scaling. Quite often parts are too thin to print properly, leading to warped parts. Thickening works but is not always cosmetically acceptable. Anyway, you seem to find acceptable solutions for this.

You’re creating very nice models. Your paint and wheathering looks really great. Your additions make them the real thing. 👍

Nice motor show you are building. Are you planning to set this up as a diorama? I envy you for the 8C2900 body. Such a beauty.

Goodday to you all. It is time for an update. I have printed lots of components for the engine, most went fine, some didn’t. Failures I had were mostly support errors or positioning errors. Some were caused by parts being too flimsy to print properly, so I had to change the design of that specific part. Like I said earlier, I struggled to get decent prints on the Jupiter, but now I am able to produce repeatable prints on that macine. I limit this to just the cam covers, th eoil pan and the gearb box main body. All other parts I print on my smaller Phrozen Sonic Mini 8k. Because the resolution on these printers is much higher (0,02mm in all directions). Let’s start with the, how applicable, starter motor. I designed it in three parts: Together they look like: Next up are the oil and water pump. In parts: Together including the feeding waterpipe which connects to the compressor The steering box is next. It consists of: Together it looks like: The coil components: It took a while before I had a printable version of the thingie on top of the coil, but I am pleased with the result. The engine top with coil, distributor and the coolant pie that runs to the radiator: The oil filter screws in to the left side of the oil pan. I only modeled the part that you can see. On the right side there are 2 holes that are closed with a stopper. I printed that too. Gear box is getting there too. Some components: The shifter gate comes with a locking latch Completely missing on the Pocher is the breather trumpet: I printed the mesh that sits in front of it. On top of the bell house you’ll find an inspection hatch The brake paddle axle (not fitted yet) connects withe brake mechanism inside the bell house (at the bottom). The a cover that closes this up which includes a mesh This fits nicely to Resulting in There’s a ratchet which is screwed to the left side of the gearbox. This is part of the hand brake mechanism. There is quite some stuff going on at the back of the gearbox. Against the gearbox sits a flat brass plate. I think it functions as a gasket. Next to that sits a flange which connects to a rubber boot and behind that sits a flange that connects to the prop shaft. I have designed this in three parts The inlet manifolds: This brings me to the point that most components are printed. What is missing is the dynamo and the mechanism that connects it to the gear house at the left side of the crank case. Obviously all nuts and bolts are missing. I have designed them but need to setup a print for them. That is quite a task as we are talking about several hundreds of these and they come in many forms too. Apart from those, I still need to design some parts like the exhaust manifolds, the throttle linkage and some other smaller stuff. Then there are items that will not be printed. Like Nick I am in possession of a Carvera CNC router, that will be used for several items I want to do in metal. Those are mostly the gear box items still missing. First half of this year I have spent to convert an old Emco Compact 5 CNC lathe. It is now running with a servo motor for the spindle, modern steppers and Mach3 as control software which in turn runs on a little windows pc. This conversion has taken a lot of time, mainly because I needed to find my way into this area. Now having them is nice but I still need to get to grips with operating them. It doesn’t look like 3D printing at all. Anyway, I will learn probably at the cost of many failures, but I know I will. What will be done with these? 1. Pedal axles 2. Pedals 3, brake mechanism, consisting of several levers, connecting rods etc Then there is the matter of gaskets. I wrote in my previous post that I need to cut them with my Silhouette plotter/cutter. I also need to design and print the water slides. There aren’t many on these engines but there is one on the distributor, one on each cam cover and probably some more that I still need to find out. If you find anything that is not correct, let me know. I’m open to positive and negative feedback. Anyway, that’s it for now. Thanks for watching and do let me know what you think.

Just now took the time to go through this magnificent build thread. Fantastic work. This will be a lovely model when finished.Kudos to you.👏

Hi rab, Ahh, UVtools is really great. Since I use it (for every new setup of a build plate) I have much less fails. It allows you to find and correct island, overhangs, suction cups (correction by drilling a very small hole, that can be filled very easily after printing). There’s a lot more functionality but I have yet to take the time to see what is useful for me. Nowadays, I’ll never start a print before processing the print file with UVtools. The slicer (Chitubox Pro in my case) also introduces small issues that can be solved with it. In my designs I ran into this issue too. If you have control over the design, you could change it such that you put the locating pins on the chassis and the holes at the bottom of the tub. Thus allowing you to print flat on the build plate. Anyway, you are getting great results as it is, so keep on it 👍

Thanks, Robin. Really appreciated, although it is not really magic, more perseverance. Learning a 3D-drawing tool (in my case Shapr3D), finding reference material to be able to design what (at least) looks like the original and then keep going. Duration of design phase? Well over a year and still I am modifying the design to make it printable. Printing takes time but setting the print up such that you will have a chance on producing decent prints takes more time. When all is set up correctly, I should be able to produce one set of engine parts in 10 or so print sessions. Then there is stuff that needs to be turned on a lathe and milled. I have finally finished my CNC lathe, which will allow for producing identical turned parts, mainly axles for the gear box. I also have acquired a CNC mill. Having those is one thing, using them also comes with a learning curve (that I have to start soon). Finally I have a cutter/plotter to cut the gaskets needed for the engine (I designed them but need to find out how to set up and use the machine). So, I’m not there yet but I’m learning new stuff as I go

Thanks, much appreciated.