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About Frah2o

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  • Birthday 01/04/1978

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    F1, Lambretta, VW Golf MK3, Modelling

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  1. 2/2 After many matt clear coat i started and finished the work with rivets (on ral car are spherical hex bolt). I put the rivets and xf56 color and a final black panel line I also addes rivets and head crew inside the bathtube following the references pics. For herad screw i used PE generic set for 1/12 motogp I also little detail the brake bias control and i also modified the fitting syestem for future connection to extra cable inside the tunnel leg I clear gloss coated the Ayrton seat to coat the carbon, next step will be the padding in the balck area with ducktape as on real MP4/4-02 I also replaced the throttle cable, the first version is too bigger size and wrong
  2. Reakky thanks JHC. Did you purchase the MFH? I saved the instruction to have a more reference for missing detail on this Kyosho. MFH is beatiful but very hard level for me. I'll follow your topic surely....and big luck with carbon, is a nightmare with this mp4/4 1/2 I started the work on nose cone, I erased the MC wrong decal, light gray primer and 1/32 carbon decal. The real carbon on nose cone is a color like plaster I used the MC template to coat the nose with my carbon. For side of nose cone i used my 1/12 decal I continued anf finished the work on radiator boxes. In the ECU zon there's a bigger carbon, so i used my 1/12 I also reworked the radiator in the inside to give a more realism and I also add the vaccum tube from radiator to water canister
  3. Before to proceed with other engine or gearbox details, i remade whole engine mount system. The kit has only 1 (the gearbox side and also is not completed) of 3 engine mount. I remade my best for my skills, the 3 engine mount. I reinforced the front struts and i used a modified lego brick to match the right angle for front mount The rear (timing belt side) was totally missing. I self made an alu bracket. The two rear engine mount are fixed on subframe to make easier the future fitting of subframe and arms.
  4. I started the job on Ayrton seat. Before apply the carbon decal, I reinforced the seat because is a semi soft rubber. After a light sanding i painted it in matt black and I placed some carbon decals. There'are some wrinkles. After a matt coat I'll cover the wrinkles with tapes and lombar pad like on original seat (i thnik and hope the wrinkle will be hidden) I reworked the gearknob frame, i added some missing frame with styrene. After checking the right fitting, I use as color base a metallic gray tamiya. Then i placed the MC decal. I used a different carbon for gearknob bezel, I think is so quite similar to 1:1
  5. I started the work with decal on monocoque, but before to place them i made some extra paint area. So while i'm waiting the dry of paint, i started the decal on nose cone. I bought the kit from MC...these decal are totally wrong. The carbon on nose cone is really extra fine and grey matt color The MC decal are too big and with a wrong fiber drawing So i take a new set of decal 1/32 like the radiator box and i'll do a new decal work on nose cone using as template the wrong mc decal Before to decal monocoque i watched the real car. Mp4/4 have 3 different carbon zone - On both side of front wishbones suspension. In this area there's a darker carbon (is similar a dark wood color) - on top of front monocoque above the cockpit -dashboard zone: there's a little lighter area ( i think a different carbon composition) - A little darker area on both sides of engine mount plates. There's a little piece o darker carbon, i think a reinforced area for high engine-monocoque stress For wishbones arm sides and engine plate i give a first coat of metallic brown and a final smoke coat For top area of monocoque i used a tintanum gold coat and a little smoke coat I also paint with semi gloss balck the bracket for bodyshell I placed the MC decal for monocoque and i think to quite reach the result of real car I'll wait the drying of decal and the I'll give a final matt clear coat. Then i started with details work of rivets and Hercules and Malboro Decals
  6. I checked the clearence between bonnet and radiator duct...It's too near. I decided to remade a new shape of duct. I added joint to radiator for future braided hose I start to modified the inside high beam projector to create a Venturi duct for cooling the extra radiator. I removed the fluted glass and i fitted a metal mesh. Before to finish this work I need to rework in the future the headlight for fit the mesh properly.
  7. Yes JCH i continued in posting.....i don't post in one shoot all progress because i s too much, but i'm very glad to share with you my work I coated in primer the engine bay to highlight the faults. I decided to eliminate the wiper tank. I'll fitted an extra engine oil cooling radiator. I remade a modified radiator and i self made a first version of cooling duct.
  8. Hi JHC, thanks for follow and appreciation This Mclaren is a very carbon nightmare. The carbon that I used is 1/32 and i bought it o ebay and is this Is a semi trasparent decal so need a base color. I use graphite fo base I use the same decal also for nose cone that have an extra fine carbon.
  9. The tricks of my friend is very good. to reproduce the carbon rough (blue and yellow area) I painted in matt black and finally i rolled with finger the excess of wrinkles Finally i give a light clear coat (matt). I made a dry assembly to see the carbon differences, than i'll start with decal of bronze areas.
  10. These are my sisters GTI 93 and Tdi 94. The white is for treffen, the black isa dalily. I bought a Fujimi kit 1/24 to replicate my 1:1 daily....the hardest part of project will be to find the Lorinser rims.
  11. In the past week I continued the work on engine bay. With fiber bond iI filled the self made side pods I self made a new water tank bracket with alu stripe and I filled the hole on side strut With the help of Lego bricks I made the missed servobrake and i made a new fitting sistem on engine firewall I started to selfmade (just finish the final shape) a new clutch lever on gearbox to replicate the future clutch cable (totally missed in the kit)
  12. I'm in your same condition with my mk3 (with chassis notched)....but low is a way of life (specially on a vw)
  13. I started the work on engne bay. The kit give engine bay separeted from chassis and the junction with chassis is really worst I "welded" the engine bay and i started to rebuilt the spar that was all wrong in the model (just notched the chassis) To fit the absorber, i opned the top mount sunspesion to have right access on ammo screw FInally i try a first check for the inside clearence between chassis and and engine.
  14. I repainted the head with a silfer leaf paint, and whole gearbox and differential in gloss alluminium I added the wire from distributur to ignition coil and i full remade the plug wire in with red cable. I reapinted in green the gearbox cap, in the future i'll put a vw logo waterslide decal I dediced to fill the inside wheel arch with putty to give more deep and realism.
  15. The engine kit i think is a PB engine Here i started to work on block. I made hole for engine lift I scribed the head that was absent I now repainted the block in iron mica, the head will be painted in allumium block. If you want and if is it possible i want to share with you my building
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