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About Frah2o

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    New Member
  • Birthday 01/04/1978

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    F1, Lambretta, VW Golf MK3, Modelling

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  1. My good friend Riccardo noticed to me an inaccuracy: the gray cable of the transponder was of too large section compared to the white one. I opened 4 LAN cables (between normal and cross) and I found the gray cable of the right size (in addition to many others in different and useful colors). I rewired everything and added the Top Studio heat shrink and plug. The plug connects to a wiring that comes from the "window" in the front section of the monocoque where are located the master cylinders and relative hydraulic pipes. I have also added wiring and plug here. I then reproduced the brackets that fix the front wing to the nose cone with aluminum 0.5. To shape them I used the same bracket as a template. I then worked on steering wheel. This element is not always the same: it changes from race to race, chassis, driver etc. The steering wheel that Ayrton used in the Suzuka race is: black with no seam lines on the crown and without the “Personal” logo. The one with “Personal” logo and seam line is of other frames. There is also a wheel with a straight upper part (it was mostly used by Prost) I wanted to increase the sense of suede a little: masked, matt clear transparent and sprayed from far to recreate the rough surface Other characteristic elements: the quick release to release it; I bored the hub and inserted an M5 washer painted in steel. Other elements that are missing and that I will add: the plug for the "boost" and "radio" buttons which will then connect in plug located at the bottom of the dashboard. I then started the definitive positioning of the internal and side wiring to the cockpit. Here too there are differences between the various frames. The "early frames" provided by the aluminum cable clamps .... on the opposite the "late frames" present in plastic or black metal (I presume plastic) ... the 05 chassis at Motegi has them black, but it is to understand if they are really 30 years ago placed or remodeled in more recent times. I recreated the aluminum strips and sliced and heated the heat shrink tubing. Following the photos, I laid the wiring for the dashboard controls and for the Showa ECU on the left side of the cockpit. The throttle cable has been laid on the right side. Another extra pipe is the hydraulic pipe of the rear brake system: between photos and technical diagrams on Haynes book (especially those relating to the bathtube and the tank) and my own deductions,I have come to unravel the mystery of the passage of this hydraulic pipe. The tube starts from the master cylinders, runs right down the leg tunnel, passes under the seat ...... exits the seat, passes between the monocoque and the fuel tank and comes out of a passage hole in the rear area of the monocoque (symmetrically opposite to the linkage gearbox) I then reassembled the seat (previously redone) with the belts that did not require particular modifications ..... only note: The "BOSS" logos in Motegi are black. In Suzuka and in the championship they were white. Another note, the 2 different fixing positions of the belts. Ayrton had them high ... Prost being lower height placed them at the bottom.
  2. The macro groups are almost finished. I placed the fire extinguisher and closed the front of the monocoque. The fire extinguisher is blocked by two metal bands that have an antivinbrating sheath. To reproduce this sheath I applied four 1mm strips of insulating tape. I added the PE rivets to the rear air intakes which actually hold the rear axle dust guard in place. I mounted the gearbox by adding the nuts to the 1.4 m screws and turning the bracket at 180 degrees to make the added nut visible and no longer the screw head. Where it was not possible to replace the screws, to hide the head, I applied hexagonal heads with the punch & die. I covered the upper screws of the suspension castle (painted in titanium gold) and the screws that fix all the various wishbones and tie rods to the rear hubs (painted in gun metal) While everything is fixed and dries I noticed in a single photo, the presence of a control unit (probably the FIA transponder) in the front of the nose cone .... and precisely where there is the jaw where is fixxed the lower part of front wing. The transponder is orange (I believe with a black case): Lego help me.... perfect in size and color. Drilled, added a hex nut for the white cable and an aluminum connector for the gray, and I finally placed. Next steps: - the assembly of the belts and seat, cockpit and steering wheel and harnesses along the upper part of the monocoque to finish (maybe) the entire monocoque - the positioning of the three-way hydraulic joint of the rear brakes (and with this I should also have finished the rear axle)
  3. Yesterday I “married” the monocoque with radiator pods. To put everything in right position I fitted the undertray. To fix the radiator pods I used the 2k glue instead of classic cyano. I also made a dry fitting with the engine to check one critical point: the turbos with intercooler Another detail mounted is the secondary Ecu on the undertray .... I have slightly set it back so as to leave space for the future tie rod that run from rocker covers to the floor of undertray between the Ecu and intercooler While everything is fixed, I work on side bulkheads that are in front of the radiators inlet. These bulkheads until mid-season were white. There is an anecdote about this particular. At the beginning of the championship they were white color, but then they were painted in black (if I well remember) from Hungarian GP) as Steve Nichols could not like to see these only 2 white pieces when the bodyshell was off. Even these pieces presented small missing details: The Dsuz fastener and the Allen screws. The fastener (which serves to keep the body or bodyshell in place) is correct in shape but missing a detail. The bayonet screw is flat with fastener when the body is mounted, when removed the screw is external. I drilled with a 0.5, I added a rivet ... I think now a little bit better. Another addition: the Allen screws that secure this panel; I used the usual PE kit from the Top studio and a final coat with panel line to dark them. The next macro-group to be completed will be the gearbox. To go ahead with it I have to mount the side bulkheads embedded between the arms. These bulkheads also need some extras: I added the Dsuz fastener and the 3 bolts that fix the bulkhead to the flat bottom. I then worked on the rear axle group and brake ducts. The real photo shows that on the brake ducts there is a dust cover fixed with 2 steel plates and rivets. To reach a better final view a iadd some insulating tape and rubber o-ring to simulate the dust cover.
  4. In the week I started and finished (just some final details to add) to assemble the front suspension group. A detail visible on the braking system are 3 colored mark on the discs and pads. I think that these marks (made with some particular paint) varied the color second of the temperatures reached. I also wanted to reproduce them. Before going up with the complete hubs I worked to the 3-way braking joint. This joint presents some differences between the race car in and the one at the museum: in the race the braid is covered with a black sheath, a Motegi the sheath is in heat shield aluminum . The first time I made it in aluminum, this time I made it black like on “race mode”. To improve a vision of this joint: I drilled the joint, I inserted a 1mm pin,I added M 1.4 bolts and finally put the new black hoses. Before fixing everything to the lower wishbone, I tried to understand the position of the tube that connects to the master cylinder from the joint. It’s fixed with clamps and is positioned in the rear area of the arm profile (I imagine for a better aerodynamic efficiency) To fix the joint on the arm I created an invisible support on the arm: I made a bolt with punch and die, I glued and painted black and then I fixed the joint on wishbone. Before to assembling everything, I focused on the cross screws of the various steering arms and tie rods. The head screw is not a pretty look… so I could have masked the heads with punch & die dice. The screws are 1.4 m, I also have 1,4 bolts .....so I turned 180 degrees all the bracket on the monocoque, I inverted the bracket of the steering tie rods on the hubs, I screwed all the screws "from below" and finally I saw the bolts from above ...... now it has a better look. I then mounted the carbon brake vents and some pics.
  5. I proceed the job on intercooler and calipers. Intercoolers was born separate. The seam was filled with cyano and then and putty. I masked the grilled part and gave a primer coat. The intercooler of this MP4/4 are in polished aluminum, instead of painting, I coated it directly with bare metal. I fitted the ducts of the bypass valves and finally I assembled definitively. I then Worked on to the calipers .... a very funny game .... I enlarge the 0,8 TD hex nut with the 0,9 drill to insert the 0,6 braided hose ... I also insert 0.4 wire inside (another funny game ). After 2 hours I finished the work on braided hoses.
  6. Intercooler, ducts and bypass valve. This mp4/4 is equipped with a complex pressure control system which is regulated by a series of electrovalves located on right radiator pod. From these solenoid valves a series of pressure pipes occurs The duct is present in the kit but the bypass valve is totally missed. My friend has rebuilt and machined for me of the new ducts and by-pass valves. The kit instructions said to put a tape to imitate a the rubber joint .... in reality the system is different. This duct is separated into 3 part: lower, central with valve throttle system and upper. In a single photo where it is taken very closely it is possible to saewthe presence of a rubber joint that fixes the lower duct to the bypass valve duct. The bypass valve duct is dark steel and not aluminum. I drilled the duct for the activation of the bypass valve. I masked the ducts, I gave primer, and a final coat of gun metal. I madethe rubber joint of the three elements, aluminum clamp; finally with a 1mm piece of wire, I connected and put the bypass valve and its connection banjo in its place. The valve in Woking is titanium colored, in race "the mushroom" was black, and therefore it will be painted in black. It was then the turn of the calipers. The brake calipers show some peculiarities: The pumping elements are connected by a braided hose passing through lower side of calper. The pumping elements are equipped with extenders which push the pads against the disc. These extenders are steel-colored and have violet reflections due to the very high temperature reached during braking. The calipers are then equipped with 4 heat shields (without Haynes' book I would never have discovered such details) which go to repair the surrounding part of the piston. Other peculiarities, bleeder valves are located on the top of the external side of calipers. Riccardo (with his great hand and patience) also reworked my calipers: Kyosho supplies the brake with printed bleeder, no hole for the braid to pass through. (printed bleeder and through hole were made by my friend) The caliper in the shapes is correct and well made, but missing a series of details. In backlight you can see the passage hole in which a 0,6 braided cable from the top studio will slide. The cable will be on one side fixed to a Hex bolt always from the Top studio. Banjio and bleeder: I ordered one maounth ago banjo and bleeder from RbMotion ...... I think they are dispersed in the Atlantic. Unable to wait, I started to change the banjo. I used 2 mm resin studio top joint; cut the pin for the braided cable and drilled with a 0.8 In this way, the braided cable will fit into the banjo. I then started the detail of the pump extenders: burnt iron coat and a wash with very very diluted violet Gun metal for the heat shields and for the 2 bolts that fix the calipers to the hubs, for the banjo instead silver chrome ... to highlight the details the comparison with an out of box caliper.
  7. I started working on the scompo discs worked by Riccardo The disc has some visible features that must also be scaled and reproduced to get as close as possible to reality: I painted the inside of the discs (for testing) with the three possible colors: Light Gun metal, Gun metal and Gunship gray. The Tamiya metallic colors are very beautiful but as usual they have the metal parts too big for me ... even for a 1/8. The Gunship gray for me is the right way as base color; I then passed the surface with the metal gun powder to give the carbon metallic look .... and the final result I think is good. The hub has been repainted in Titanium silver. I then coated all hubs with a titanium weathering powder, The discs were dusted with gun metal both on the internal and external braking track surface. I aligned the respective hubs on the rotors and finally I glued the disc system Before assembling the last disc, I used a 2mm styrene strip a 2 mm to obtain the template for the bolts on which to apply the safety cable. Once I fixed the bolt, I painted the heads with MrHobby stainless steel
  8. Yesterday I received a packer that comes from my good friends that is great modeler. This packet contain some pieces reworked by Riccardo. I work on ECU positioned on undertray .... it is a secondary ECU for data log. This Ecu is coated with aluminum heat shields due to its proximity to the turbos. The Kyosho control unit is almost correct: the side faces are missing and the cable tube that goes under the left radiator pod is fixed centrally and not at side like on 1:1 car. Furthermore, the cable management tube that finish on side of undertray is not with a correct shape. With help of styrene, cutter and glue I rebuilt the sides of the ecu, repositioned the curved tube and re-profiled the other tube. I painted IT in aluminum and I finally coated in aluminum tape. The control unit shows a weave with parallel lines .... with a ruler I wanted to replicate this weave on the newly laid aluminum. The disc ... they already seemed beautiful to me, reworked by Riccardo they are now disassembled and like the real ones. Riccardo divided the hub from the carbon rotor, he eliminated the molded bolts and drilled the hub and rotor to allow assembly like real discs. In this way I have the double advantage of: a little bit easier to paint in carbon the rotor and being able to fix the hub with bolts by adding the safety wire to avoid unscrewing it.
  9. Radiator pods and "accessories" I started with the left one .... and I think is quite completed. I worked on the battery. I have rewired the negative cable and the positive cable (I deduce that that bulb is a protection or sensor for positive cable). I made myself the blue plug and I connected all battery cables to the top studio connector next to the control unit. The battery is often replicated with the white body and the black top. A red decal is then added as shown in the photo by references ........ but if you want to replicate the car in the race, this battery it’s a mistake. The battery used in the race is all white and also has a longitudinal aluminum band (additional reinforcement I believe) Another visible and important element is the master cut off switch. This is are two switches for switching off the car: this one and another one operated by a red ring mounted on the rollbar. To build it by myself I used an already wired connector, I recreated the little bracket the hold the switch with alu, die cut bolts and wire. Everything was assembled with a shrink tube and finally I placed on the radiator pod. I then worked on the other side. Here is the entire system of intercooler by-pass valves. Between references, MFH instructions, Top studio instruction and a bit of intuition I connectes almost all I can saw. I also wired the ECU and I finally mounted the whole. I finished the work with some various PE bolts and rivets.
  10. Thanks Kirk....it's mine mental distorsion try to understand everything on a car.....if i can... I started to working on another characteristic detail: the clamps that tighten the pipes that connect the intercooler and the intake manifold. The clamps are in purple ergal and perforated ...... in a few words a "libido" to reproduce. To reproduce them at my best I did: masking tape for diameter calculation, aluminum can for made clamps, drilling and then painting. This metallic purple is a hard find color .... I had two choices: the metallic red (which turns in pink) or the flat purple of Mr Hobby which approaches but slightly darker and not metallic. I slightly mix purple with thinner the and then I painted ... it comes close but does not combine perfectly. I will try to see if I find something in the nail art department that comes closest. I then started working on the radiator pods. They have some features. They have three carbon washers (with a thicker texture) that serve to fix the internal bulkheads that divide the air duct and that keep the radiator protection screen fixed. I punched 6 washers and then I Placed it I then started and finished to fixing the Ecu on first pod: hooks with 0.5 wire, rubber band obtained with insulating tape and finally closed the bands that hold the ECU in place.
  11. I continue with the study of this Mclaren. I Return to the radiator bleeding pipes .... I wanted to check if they are connected to the expansion tank, but this is not the right fitting system ... when they bleed for the pressure they did it directly to the rear. They both start from the radiators .... and they passed behind the engine brackets, the passage was no longer clear. I deduced that it connects to the expansion tank ... and it’s an error. The pipes pass between the head and over the cranckcase (a clear pic of the engine pulled by a Japan mechanic revealed these hoses) And another photo shows them clear visible, they’re just under the bigger hose of the oil breather ... and they all end up one side of the end of the gearbox .... then they vent directly on the track. Another detail: the mp4 / 4 at Motegi shows these radiator pipes with the pink coolant.... At the time of 1988 in Honda they used distilled water as liquid because it had a best performing heat exchange compared to normal glycol-based liquids. To prevent corrosive effects of distilled water on internal components, Honda was usual to add some addicitive The correct color of these tubes (when they bleed) was transparent green ..... but in most cases they were natural white ... Replying Suzuka I will mount the white transparent tubes in place of the pink ones that are on Motegi's car.
  12. I Continue with the engine and missing details. I'm focused on the position throttle sensors. These Sensors are good but missing electrical plugs. I reproduced them in a basic way to go ahead with the work (Top Studio are out of stock due to CoronaVirus) ..... as the Top Studio will be available, I will order and I will replace them. The position sensors have two colors (blue and black) to recognize their side. With 0.7 wire, styrene, heat shrink and color, I tried to give my best work I also added the missing PE Allen keys on the sensors. Another change that awaited me: the fuel joint on the right injector rail (the orange ergal ) that runs behind the wiring bracket. I reshaped the bracket to recreate the correct fitting. Another big missing: the reinforcement rods placed on the rocker covers and that are fixed on the front of the wishbones structure. I started with the easy part: I reproduced the U-bracket positioned on the camshafts with a square profile of styrene ..... I will have to study how to reproduce the connecting rod ... but first I have to wait to assemble the whole group of rear suspension. I finished the work on the main ECU by connecting the 3 colored plugs (black, gray and blue), and the other aluminum and titanium gold connectors. A peculiarity about an additional ECU for the Japanese GP there is the presence of a letter "A". I used a Martini and I got the letter I (re) worked the brackets that hold the hose that connects the turbo conveyors to the wastegate: I re-profiled, drilled and added 0.35 wire. I worked on a critical point of this construction. This model is good and strong assebly .... but there’s a weak point on exhaust system has: the turbo and external exhaust assembly are supported by a single point of contact. At first attempt I used cyano glue .... then I used bicomponent. I Dry mounted monocoque, radiator pods and intercooler conveyors and everything seems to fit good. I worked on the exhausts: the first time was good but they were too rusty look I started mixing powders between titanium, light gun, gun metal .... and looking at the references and now are quite similar to 1:1
  13. After several days that I think to solve all fuel system A visible element is a joint (with an orange ergal section) which has mounted on the right injector rail. From this joint start a hose... after several searches and different pics, I understand that the hose ends up on a joint fixed to the side of the fuel filler neck. I try to made with my best own this joint using a nut M 1.4, plasticard, wire and Hex nut Topstudio. I follow the paint scheme following the references and I painted it. I think it is an additional fuel return or vacuum hose. To insert this joint I drilled 1mm the rail. I Positioned it and is not bad, but I will have to redo the wiring harness bracket because on the real the joint is internal and the electric plug is external. I dry fitted the the joint for inlet and outlet fuel, fuel filler and ECU to see if space is enough and good working…..it seems good. Last (happy) discovery: I noticed a hole on the post left bottom of the monocoque. It is the passage hole of the rear brake circuit ..... MFH instruction, Top Studio details set give an incomplete instructions and I could not understand where the passage was. All instruction of MP4/4 kit fit the brake hoses from the calipers to the T-joint on the upper part of the gearbox. From this T-joint start and die the main line under the gearbox..... but I want to know the connection to the master cylinder In the end, a technical drawings on Haynes' book show a way between tank and monocoque. And this way start from this: I finally came to discover the complete passage of the rear brake circuit that I can now connect on my MP4/4
  14. started to work on top of monocoque. The kit is well done but lacking in other elements. I painted the filler neck in semi-glossy black; looking also at Hiro's instructions there are indications to paint the external crown of filler in light gun metal .... it is not painted, but the crown is depainted due to the use of the fuel filler. To simulate this, I drybrushed the crown. Also in this area there are various missing elements which are: - electrical wiring with connector (I think for inside tank fuel pump) - Air vent pipe for vacuum when the car was was refueling (in a photo I see a mechanic with the 10 lt gravity tank on it with this vent connected while refueling) - Fuel inlet e fuel outlet joints - A joint that start from fuel filler to connect at another connection on right fuel rail on engine. Before proceeding I had to check if there was enough area to add the missing details. There was some problems with space between fuel filler and ECU ... I repositioned the main ECU I removed the pegs from the ECU to move it lower by 3-4 mm, Now I have enough space to make 4 holes for: - Fuel inlet - Fuel outlet - plug for fuel pump - Vacuum fuel hose For the fuel pump plug I worked in the following way: a die-cut nut, I drilled and added a plug and then wired. For venting the vapors: die-cut nut, 1mm wire and white tube.
  15. I go on with the wing and bodyshell. I started from a mini brain teaser with decal: the Marlboro sponsor is divided into 4 on the rear wing profiles ....at lest I placed it without problem. For the rear side I was not sure what combo there was on the back of the highest wing profile .... a photo of Ayrton's post in Suzuka soved me this doubt. Another detail seen on the net: the wording written on the inside of bodyshell. I wanted to highlight the fact that Ayrton used in the race and won with the T-car. I wanted to replicate the wording using the initials of the chassis ant T-car I then started to place the rest of the sponsors. I placed all easily….until with the front nose Marlboro logo that is wrong To see the mistake: the left decal is from the Museum Collection and correct, as it is curved and with a portion of L and B that go to the monocoque. The MSM Creation decals perfect in all (also in size) except for this decal which instead of the curve was made straight. If only I had noticed before I would have split the decal and positioned by hand. I removed the wrong decal and I ordered a new decal for front nose.
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