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Steve Noble

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About Steve Noble

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    Established Member
  • Birthday 13/11/72

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    Doncaster, UK

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  1. Replacement Spray Booth Filter?

    Glass fibre http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/152339546219 Denser one http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/162302303971 Hope this helps...
  2. Best way to paint propeller nose? (see link)

    Is it all one piece where the black and yellow part is? I'm assuming it is. I would prime it with white, spray the whole thing yellow then use tape such as Tamiya but don't use it straight off the roll as it's too wide. Place it onto a cutting mat and cut a long, thin strip about 1mm wide using a fresh scalpel blade and a steel ruler. Then mask the line between the yellow and the black. The tape will follow the curve easily being so thin. You could also use the new Tamiya fine line tape which bends around curves and shapes easily.
  3. Replacement Spray Booth Filter?

    I have a different spray booth to the one you pictured but I was fed up of paying the extortionate prices for replacement filters. I did some research (took an old filter apart!!) to see what they were made of, and found out that there were two layers of material in their construction. One a glass fibre type material and the other, a denser fabric type. I managed to get a roll of each on eBay for around £20 per roll and there is enough to make 100's upon 100's of filters, enough to last me for the rest of my modelling days. I had to fabricate a small frame to hold the two layers and fit into the spray booth, but it wasn't too difficult. The price of the filters is now pennies instead of pounds and because I can make them so cheaply I change them more often so it's good for the spray booth.
  4. Tamiya vs Fujimi 1:20 Tyrrell P34's.

    Ive built a few of the later Fujimi efforts and they are much improved in both fit and quality of parts. The decals were also really nice and went on well.
  5. Tamiya TS-8 vs. X-7 Red

    TS-8 Is brighter in my opinion. Personally it would be my preferred choice for painting cars as it goes on better, dries quicker and is much tougher at resisting fingerprints/marks etc whilst handling the car during final assembly. Just my opinion..
  6. exhaust heat coloring tutorials?

    Nothing wrong with the Tamiya sets. I've used them on bikes and F1 cars with excellent results. Also used clear colours from Alclad and Tamiya for heat staining with an airbrush.
  7. Paint problems

    They don't need very long between coats. They are practically dry in a matter of minutes. You can use tweezers to remove any hairs and stuff, but it's better to try and prevent any hairs getting into the finish in the first place..
  8. Dry humbrol paints?

    If most of the local shops I visit are anything to go by, they've probably had them on the shelf for ages and they've simply dried up... Contact the shop and explain the situation, maybe they'll replace them for free.
  9. how to Cast fuel barrels (easy)

    Best way is to make a two part master mould from silicone rubber and then cast them in resin. But it could be expensive. You can buy some moulding material called Oyumaru. It can be softened simply by placing in a cup of hot water and then you simply push the item you want to replicate into it, in your case the barrel. You can then use resin to pour into the mould and reproduce the barrel. Look up Oyumaru on YouTube there are quite a few videos of it being used.
  10. Colourcoats....Are they good?

    Hi Jamie, I should have mentioned that I speak as a car/bike model maker, so I very rarely go down that thin with the paint. However I concur that very thin paint is useful when shading and creating special effects, shadows etc..
  11. Colourcoats....Are they good?

    The only way to get efficient with your airbrush is to practice. As already stated get some plastic card or an old kit to learn on. Main thing is to thin the paint correctly so that it sprays properly. Too thick and it will spatter, too thin and it won't cover or it will run. You have to get the mixture just right. Also experiment with the air pressure as this can make a big difference. It can be a steep learning curve, but once mastered it really is an invaluable tool that can be used to devastating effect. It's worth persevering with it..
  12. Isopropyl Alcohol

    I find a sanding stick works better. The IPA tends to just rub most fillers off, or not touch them at all..
  13. New to priming

    Worth priming whatever paint you're using. Provides a solid base for your top coat..
  14. Alclad candy colours warning

    You'd have been better using the clear colours instead. They are lacquer based and don't fade away like the Candy enamels do..
  15. Rust in compressor

    I don't think your compressor is ruined. When I drain mine I get a lot of oily liquid out from the drain plug. I imagine the inside has gone rusty because of the accumulation of water inside. Now you've got rid of the water I'm sure it will be fine and soon dry out.