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Matt_

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About Matt_

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  1. IMHO, if you're going to go for a cheapo compressor, you almost have to get an Option 2 variant. It pretty much negates the issue that the cheap ones don't supply a particularly consistent airflow, and also helps with their duty cycle life.
  2. Oh, yes. I also contacted the seller to see if they would supply a box of one (or two) individual colours. Sadly they stated it could only come in the pre-packaged sets. I wonder if 0.5mm is a small enough fibre size. http://www.theflockingshop.co.uk/100g-bag-50-c.asp
  3. FYI, I have tried this and it's fine. Painted the part with enamel and the rained it on with one of these: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00IQ4VIU8/ I'll try to remember to post a picture later.
  4. Painting Window Trim

    There are also Posca paint pens which are good for this kind of thing. However I would mostly do it like this:
  5. Tamiya Paint Retarder my thoughts.

    I have been using some Vallejo retarder to help with brush painting small areas, but this looks like it makes Tamiya acrylics good for larger areas. Great video, thanks.
  6. Airbrushable primer

    I think that Mr Metal Primer is a cellulose base metal primer.
  7. IMHO, a decent starter option is one of the kits with an as186/tc80 compressor with 3L tank, and an Iwata-copy brush (mostly Veda 130). While the airbrush is not a patch on the Iwata that it's a copy of, they're actually pretty decent, and more than good enough for most things. Mine is the Bartsharp one, but there are a number of other brandings. The mechanism on mine is a bit scratchy, but the needle is surprisingly good. Just keep the seals away from hot solvents - not a problem if you just want to spray vallejo varnish. The good thing is that the compressor and tank are something you can continue to use even if you later want to upgrade your airbrush.
  8. Airbrushable primer

    When I say that it forms a skin, that is not to say that it isn't stuck to the surface. The difference is that the polyurethane primers create a layer on top of the plastic or metal that is stuck like a glue. The surface itself is unaffected. An etch primer contains an acid that eats into the metal allowing the primer to key the surface for a better hold. A similar thing happens when using a cellulose primer on models, the acetone melts the top layer of plastic, allowing the plastic and primer to mix. Don't get me wrong, Stynylrez is a great product, but I'm not sure photo-etch is its forte.
  9. Gunze thinner types

    *twitch* Next, you'll be telling us you also like their range of colors.
  10. Paint Thinners

    I think surgical spirit is denatured ethanol, which is not the same as isopropanol. Although depending on formulation, denatured alcohol may include IPA (as well as things like acetone, MEK, or other ketones). Acetone free nail polish remover is usually a mixture of IPA, ethyl acetate, denatured ethanol, and some other solvents and perfumes. If you want to use acetone in your homebrew airbrush cleaner, you're better off buying some 100% stuff rather than generic nail polish remover that contains oils, perfumes, and other random chemicals to supposedly improve your cuticles.
  11. Vallejo Model Color won't thin

    Your paint may contain some lumps or dried flakes that are blocking the nozzle. You could try straining it through a gauze mesh or some old tights.
  12. Kapci 2k Clear - Anyone used it?

    Has anyone used Kapci 9999 2k clear on their models? It's a medium-solids 2k auto clear that's available in smallish quantities as a 3-part kit, including thinner.
  13. Airbrushable primer

    Because photo-etch parts are so small, they are usually covered in little corners and edges where it's easy to rub 'coating' primers off. Water-based polyurethanes like Stynylrez or Vallejo don't bond to the surface, they just create a skin. Cellulose primers that melt into styrene will also just create a skin when used on metal. To lay down a fine, yet strong primer onto photo-etch you really need an acidic etch primer for metal. These primers eat into the surface to bond, creating a stronger finish. You can get either pre-mixed or 2-pack etch primers. The 1k ones are simpler, but have a shelf life of usually about a year from date of manufacture. Or if the parts are somewhere they're not going to be touched, just paint them and be very careful handling them during assembly.
  14. Decided to make a replica of a Beetle that my father had in the early 70s as a birthday gift for him. It was an Apple Green 1303s - that of course doesn't quite match any of the available kits looking at the photos I dug out from his albums. I've bought the Aoshima 1303 kit as a base for the body, and the Revell cabrio kit to donate some parts. I think I'm going to get some colour-match auto paint and decant it rather than try to mix my own - pretty expensive way to do it though.
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