Jo NZ

The print files for the rear wheel, upright and tyre, and a new front tyre to fit the existing rim are available for free on cults3d.l Let me know if you'd like any other bits and I'll post the files. https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/heller1-12-scale-ligier-js11-wheels-tyres-and-rear-upright

Western also made a Brabham BT52, but only built as far as I know.

Well that was a while ago! Being of a butterfly mind, I dragged this out to have another go - and I think this time I'm on the right track. The work grows exponentially, first the upright, then the wheel, the tyre, and then the other bits that are rubbish... First bit. Upright, wheel (13") and tyre Rear damper components (the tops will work for the front dampers too) and a new bottom mount An then the front and rear brake discs, which are horrendous in the kit Plus a universal joint that will actually move when printed - although it does need a little persuasion.... Next step is to mock it all up and see if the car sits right, although I'm expecting to make new front tyres as they too are oversize, at a scale 21" diameter instead of 20". I can probably fudge them to the existing rim...

I have just realised that I didn't reply to any of these wonderful messages... Thank you all so much for your kind words. A few answers.. The paint is Tamiya Lacquer Pure Red, airbrushed, with a coat of Semi Gloss Clear to give the right level of gloss The 1/43 model - is that the GPM version or the SMTS one? The bonnet panels are made with 0.4mm ally sheet, the louvres and bulges are formed with a press tool set up in the mill (no reason why you can't use a drill press though) and then carefully bent to shape digitally (using my fingers!)

A few up and downs on this, plus the fact I had septicemia along the way, which slows things down a bit... Carrying on with ignoring the engine positions for now, I modelled the rear dampers Which look, to all intents an purposes, like the front ones (ish) Except that it isn't, it's smaller and shorter Top is the revised one, the lower one is the same length as the front... At the bottom is the support for the arm. A close up of it assembled with a link to the axle And one with the axle pushed forward into the correct position. the links are supposed to be vertical You can also see the angled strap from the suspension pivot the the chassis. I positioned this in line with the strut on the other side... The strut mounting also carries a U shaped support for the floor Can you spot the two holes in the middle chassis member? That's where I mounted the gearbox support - the one that looks like a wheelbarrow handle. It won't fit there any more... I mentioned a while ago that I had an overhead shot which is my go to for detailed measurements - here it is After a lot of measuring and checking, it emerged that....the dash is in the right place. The gearbox is in the right place (but needs a new support). But - the rear engine...is 4mm too far forward. It's really obvious if I fit a carb, which should fit snugly against the dash hoop, and doesn't. So I've shortened the gearbox legs to the rear engine, and I 'm hoping the the extra space and a bit of fiddling will make room for the exhaust pipes, which if you remember is why the rear engine got broken.....

Lovely bending! How do you do it?

Hill WINNING!

I was going to suggest looking at 1/16 tank accessories, and easily found this - it looks like it will suit your needs... https://www.aliexpress.com/i/4000620201316.html Jo PS you need one with a fan, not a piston - they tend to pulse

Poul, I have another Alfa to build (at the moment it's going to be a Brianza) and your print files would save me about 6 months of scratchbuilding. Yes Please if you're going to share them!

The Mojo is slowly returning... Remember I printed a 1/4 scale engine? It went into the cabinet like that, until one day I opened it and the engine fell out - the (very) temporary brass angle supports had loosened and it fell over (and out). This was the main breakage I tried to CA it back together, but there was another piece missing so it went to the scrap bin. I printed another one using the same .ctb file as the first, and it printed slightly bigger. 1mm holes actually were 1mm diameter etc. Luckily it still fitted onto the barrel. The only explanation I can think of is that I used different resin, the first was probably printed with Elegoo ABS like black, the new one in Siraya high strength grey. Less shrinkage? Different printer software? Who knows.... When starting to assemble it, the pushrods, instead of being vertical, were angled towards each other and it was really noticeable. Lots of work with dimensions to get the correct length of the rocker arms (and they are at an angle). Then I opened Fusion and discovered that if I used the centre of the cutout (for the pushrod) in the head, it would work perfectly. Quite a "Doh" moment... Valve springs (double springs) were from an assortment box from Supercheap and also various printers that have been cannibalised over the years. I was trying to find some 3/32 steel rod for the pushrod ( You'd think it would be easy). Gave up and used nickel plated brass rod. I made the hemispherical depressions in the top of the rods by mounting the rod in a lathe and using a 2mm ball nose cutter. It worked really well. I also drew and printed a more substantial stand... and the plaque is text that been extruded up by 2mm on a 3mm base. While playing in Fusion I decided to make the (sole) mudguard - or should that be arm guard? Having learnt about centres of circles with the rockers, I did the same and used the centre of the tyre tread. I was never happy with the back of the gearbox, I don't have any pictures so I just extended the shape. Then I came across this Which shows that the bottom of the box angles up to just provide enough meat for the layshaft bearing. The box is now like this I'm still not completely happy....

Nice name, Teddyrossa. I'd always thought of them as Testicle Roasters.

They look really good! Now who's going to be brave and make one of these? Commonwealth Trans-Antarctic expedition, 1958. Yes there is a TE-20 lurking under there....

I'm not sure if this is true, but it's worth repeating: After the recent Wales -France Rugby game (Wales lost badly), Gareth Edwards (Captain of Wales in the 70s) was asked if his team could beat the current Welsh team. "Only just" he said. Surprised, the journalist asked "why only just?" "Because 6 of us are dead, and the rest are in their 70s"

White primer behaves the same way, it pulls away from the edges. If I need to prime in white I will spray with grey primer first, which provides a consistent coat for the white to bond to. Maybe grey white then yellow?

I was just about to rush off and make some jury axles, when I thought I'd better check the axle sizes and bearings. The axle float is only about 0.3 -0.4mm - measured by scribing lines at each end of travel and then estimating (!) with a digital caliper. But - look at the bearings There is a slight burr on the bottom edge.... While this doesn’t matter on the front and rear wheels, as there is a washer between the bearing and the wheel, there are no washers on the centre wheels, meaning that the wheels can potentially snag. So before I machine up some jury axles, I will file and polish the outer bearing faces, reassemble the axles, re-quarter them and put it all back together. Here's hoping!