Using Revell UV setting Glue on my Zvezda 737 MAX 8

[Daniel Jones]

I had to re-glue the split winglets back onto my Zvezda 737 MAX 8. I was having real trouble getting them to stick back on using regular Revell Contacta Professional glue as there is only a tiny piece of plastic which slots into the wing. 

 

So I came across this Revell UV setting glue to help with re-attaching the winglets and it works really well. It takes about 10-15 seconds to cure the glue rather than the 5 it says but it its a really useful thing to now have for my future modelling.

 

I'm uploading this as it would have been really helpful to me previously, so I just thought I would upload it to try and help others.

 

 

Hope this is useful, 

Daniel. 

 

 

 

[billn53]

I’ve used UV activated acrylic and resin for a number of modeling applications. It makes a good filler for panel lines and small holes & gaps. It’s self-leveling and creates a nice fillet along wing roots. I’ve used it on instrument faces and (with thicker kinds) to create small wingtip and navigation lights. It also can be used to make small windows and transparencies — put a piece of transparent tape on the outside of the opening and fill the opening from the inside, then remove the tape.

 

It isn’t very strong as a glue so don’t use it anywhere where structural strength is needed. But, it’s great with fiddly pieces of photoetch such as ship railings.

[dnl42]

I also use the stuff, but have found that its best with clear parts or any time where the UV light can see the fluid. I do want to try @billn53's suggestion of a self-leveling filler though--that sounds like an excellent idea.

[billn53]

Here are a few examples of how I’ve used UV resin/acrylic:

 

As an experiment, I used UV resin exclusively as my only putty/filler on this 1/72 Dewoitine. Here you can see it after being brushed along the wing roots:

 

 

 

 

I also first experimented with using it to fill panel lines on my NM-1 to RSR conversion:

 

 

No signs of the original panel lines, even with this metallic finish!

 

 

Here I’ve applied a small drop of thick UV glue over the end of a fiber-optic line to make this 1/48 Thunderbolt’s tail light:

 

I made lenses for my Ford Trimotor’s large landing lights by putting drops of UV resin onto a glass plate, then prying them loose with a sharp blade after illuminating them:

 

 

 

The lower side windows on this 1/72 Skymaster were scratch built using the tape-over-opening method, filled from behind with clear UV resin (hard variety):

 

 

 

 

 

[Back in the Saddle]

Cheers Bill, some great tips there!

[dnl42]

1 hour ago, billn53 said:

I made lenses for my Ford Trimotor’s large landing lights by dropping UV resin onto glass plate, then prying them loose with a sharp blade after illuminating them:

Ooh, I LIKE this! And I just bought some lenses from the local train shop.

I've made lenses by putting drops in the ends of a tube for pre-war scope sights, but this is much more versatile. 

 

[Daniel Jones]

2 hours ago, billn53 said:

Here are a few examples of how I’ve used UV resin/acrylic:

 

As an experiment, I used UV resin exclusively as my only putty/filler on this 1/72 Dewoitine. Here you can see it after being brushed along the wing roots:

 

 

 

 

I also first experimented with using it to fill panel lines on my NM-1 to RSR conversion:

 

 

No signs of the original panel lines, even with this metallic finish!

 

 

Here I’ve applied a small drop of thick UV glue over the end of a fiber-optic line to make this 1/48 Thunderbolt’s tail light:

 

I made lenses for my Ford Trimotor’s large landing lights by putting drops of UV resin onto a glass plate, then prying them loose with a sharp blade after illuminating them:

 

 

 

The lower side windows on this 1/72 Skymaster were scratch built using the tape-over-opening method, filled from behind with clear UV resin (hard variety):

 

 

 

 

 

Wow that looks really impressive!

[Black Knight]

I used it to make the laser nose on this Jaguar;

 

I've used it as a fillers, to make landing lights, to stick a vac canopy in place - a bead of it was run around the canopy, the UV light applied and the canopy was on 

I'm using it right now to fix some torch components. No other glue will stick the parts

 

If you file it to shape and ruin the top surface you can just apply a thin coat on top to restore the look. Thats what I did with the Jaguar laser nose, I built it up in layers, shaped by file then a final coat