Paul Lucas Posted July 8, 2023 Share Posted July 8, 2023 @Casey and @Yes_Man, according to the minutes of the third meeting of the the Technical Sub-Committee on Camouflage that took place on 28 July 1943, the US Army colour 'Sand' became ANA No.16. It would therefore appear that Sand 49 and Sand ANA No.16 were the same colour. It was at this same meeting that the Committee agreed to accept the British colour Azure Blue as standard with the result that Azure Blue became ANA No.609. Thus any difference in the pigments used between the original British formulation and the ANA formulation was not a deliberate act of policy, but a variation in manufacturing methods. The 12 colour Liquitex starter set as shown above has been ordered . . . 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yes_Man Posted July 8, 2023 Share Posted July 8, 2023 (edited) 2 hours ago, Paul Lucas said: @Casey and @Yes_Man, according to the minutes of the third meeting of the the Technical Sub-Committee on Camouflage that took place on 28 July 1943, the US Army colour 'Sand' became ANA No.16. It would therefore appear that Sand 49 and Sand ANA No.16 were the same colour. It was at this same meeting that the Committee agreed to accept the British colour Azure Blue as standard with the result that Azure Blue became ANA No.609. Thus any difference in the pigments used between the original British formulation and the ANA formulation was not a deliberate act of policy, but a variation in manufacturing methods. The 12 colour Liquitex starter set as shown above has been ordered . . . Ah I wasn't aware of this, thanks for sharing Paul. It's my understanding that Sand 49 wasn't used that much anyway as by that point aircraft joining the MTO were already reverting back from the "desert" colours more suited to North Africa. Sand 26 is the more important one anyway as it was such a distinctive difference and was used on US desert aircraft from Operation Torch well into the invasion of Tunisia. The set has also been ordered, looking forward to some experimenting with it. Edited July 8, 2023 by Yes_Man Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey Posted July 8, 2023 Share Posted July 8, 2023 (edited) @Yes_Man @Paul Lucas @sapperastro I am really looking forward for your results - if they are good all around globe it'll validate how consistent pigment concentrations and their quality are in Liquitex paints (and also my paint measurements) Here are some more examples from my side - I've started doing an small BF109 build in RLM colors so I made those paints using the recipes I've posted above. Edited July 8, 2023 by Casey 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey Posted July 8, 2023 Share Posted July 8, 2023 (edited) And to continue with paint recipes: Here are recipes for Official United States Aircraft Colors 1908 - 1993 - US Navy and Marine Corps Aircraft Colors 1950 - 1959 Paint mixes are for Liquitex Basic Acrylic Fluid - 12 paints intro set In FS standard, colors starting with number 1 are gloss, starting with 2 are satin, starting with 3 are matt. As always will need proper varnish or gloss/satin/matt medium added to the paint. From my measurements, Liquitex Basic Fluid mixes are around 7.0 GU - gloss unit making it low satin, on edge of matt. Problematic colors are: Fluorescent (obviously) and Insignia White, which is requiring so little pigment there is no good way to make it on small quantity, thus the recipe is for rather hefty 30 grams (think: more than a Tamiya jar). Spoiler Aircraft Gray 16473 | GU 39.0 Target: #A4ACAB, Mixture: #A4AEA9 Primary Blue: 150 mg Burnt Umber: 500 mg Titanium White: 3400 mg DE00: 1.15 Black 17038 | GU 71.1 Target: #3C3B3C, Mixture: #3C3B3C Mars Black: 1950 mg Burnt Sienna: 1350 mg Phthalocyanine Green: 550 mg Dioxazine Purple: 150 mg DE00: 0.36 You can use Mars Black directly. Black 37038 | GU 0.6 Target: #373738, Mixture: #393838 Mars Black: 3900 mg Primary Yellow: 100 mg DE00: 1.41 You can use Mars Black directly. Bright Red 31136 | GU 1.1 Target: #A5363A, Mixture: #A0393C Cadmium Orange Hue: 2400 mg Alizarin Crimson Hue Permanent: 1550 mg DE00: 1.97 Dark Gull Gray 36231 | GU 0.8 Target: #7B7F7F, Mixture: #7B7F7F Burnt Sienna: 300 mg Light Green Permanent: 200 mg Titanium White: 2700 mg Mars Black: 700 mg DE00: 0.29 Engine Gray 16081 | GU 73.8 Target: #37678E, Mixture: #36678E Primary Blue: 2300 mg Dioxazine Purple: 200 mg Titanium White: 1150 mg Mars Black: 250 mg DE00: 0.09 Field Green 34097 | GU 0.9 Target: #555D3C, Mixture: #545E3D Mars Black: 150 mg Primary Yellow: 3200 mg Phthalocyanine Green: 100 mg Cadmium Orange Hue: 550 mg DE00: 1.33 Fluorescent Red Orange 28913 | GU 31.2 - (approximate color) Target: #FF3839, Mixture: #EB513E Primary Red: 350 mg Cadmium Orange Hue: 3450 mg Titanium White: 100 mg DE00: 4.08 You need real fluorescent pigment for this color, use Liquitex Basic #983, Fluorescent Red. This is the closest non-fluorescent color you can get. Insignia Blue 15044 | GU 83.4 Target: #3A3F4A, Mixture: #3C4047 Mars Black: 650 mg Primary Blue: 3100 mg Cadmium Orange Hue: 100 mg Alizarin Crimson Hue Permanent: 100 mg Titanium White: 150 mg DE00: 2.31 Insignia Red 11136 | GU 86.5 Target: #9E3A3D, Mixture: #A03B3E Primary Yellow: 400 mg Primary Red: 2700 mg Burnt Sienna: 150 mg Alizarin Crimson Hue Permanent: 650 mg DE00: 0.60 Insignia White 17875 | GU 35.3 Target: #F2EDDA, Mixture: #F5EBD8 Primary Yellow: 100 mg Burnt Sienna: 100 mg Titanium White: 29800 mg DE00: 1.07 This insignia white needs even less pigments than Insignia White from previous years. I am giving a recipe here but it is not for 4g but for 30 and even then it is not perfect. To make it in small quantities you need paint like Unbleached Titanium. Instrument Black 27038 | GU 14.1 Target: #414245, Mixture: #424245 Burnt Sienna: 650 mg Dioxazine Purple: 150 mg Titanium White: 450 mg Mars Black: 2650 mg DE00: 0.28 You can use Mars Black directly. Interior Green 34151 | GU 0.8 Target: #626337, Mixture: #64633C Primary Yellow: 2700 mg Burnt Umber: 500 mg Cadmium Orange Hue: 200 mg Light Green Permanent: 450 mg DE00: 1.45 International Orange 12197 | GU 75.8 Target: #D14C37, Mixture: #D44936 Primary Yellow: 700 mg Primary Red: 200 mg Cadmium Orange Hue: 2900 mg Alizarin Crimson Hue Permanent: 150 mg DE00: 0.45 International Orange 22246 | GU 48.4 Target: #D95D3C, Mixture: #D75D3B Burnt Sienna: 100 mg Cadmium Orange Hue: 3950 mg Titanium White: 100 mg DE00: 1.35 Light Green 14187 | GU 40.6 Target: #588644, Mixture: #588441 Titanium White: 250 mg Primary Yellow: 1100 mg Burnt Sienna: 200 mg Light Green Permanent: 2350 mg DE00: 0.77 Light Gull Gray 36440 | GU 1.5 Target: #B0B1AD, Mixture: #B2AFAC Burnt Sienna: 150 mg Titanium White: 3750 mg Mars Black: 150 mg DE00: 1.56 Maroon 10049 | GU 71.6 Target: #523E3E, Mixture: #513E3D Burnt Umber: 1650 mg Alizarin Crimson Hue Permanent: 2400 mg Dioxazine Purple: 100 mg DE00: 0.61 Medium Green 34079 | GU 0.7 Target: #4C5044, Mixture: #4B4F43 Primary Blue: 300 mg Primary Red: 100 mg Burnt Sienna: 1200 mg Light Green Permanent: 2600 mg DE00: 0.91 Olive Drab 34087 | GU 0.7 Target: #675D46, Mixture: #685D45 Primary Yellow: 1000 mg Burnt Umber: 1850 mg Light Green Permanent: 700 mg Titanium White: 350 mg DE00: 0.43 Orange Yellow 13538 | GU 68.5 Target: #FCAB06, Mixture: #FDAA00 Primary Yellow: 3800 mg Cadmium Orange Hue: 100 mg DE00: 1.49 Orange Yellow 33538 | GU 1.9 Target: #FFB200, Mixture: #FFB100 Primary Yellow: 3750 mg Cadmium Orange Hue: 100 mg Titanium White: 100 mg DE00: 2.44 Sea Blue 15042 | GU 36.8 Target: #414649, Mixture: #41474A Burnt Sienna: 250 mg Phthalocyanine Green: 1050 mg Titanium White: 550 mg Mars Black: 2050 mg DE00: 0.28 Seaplane Gray 26081 | GU 86.8 Target: #595D5D, Mixture: #595C5C Burnt Umber: 1000 mg Light Green Permanent: 500 mg Titanium White: 1250 mg Mars Black: 1150 mg DE00: 0.19 Edited July 9, 2023 by Casey 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter2 Posted July 8, 2023 Share Posted July 8, 2023 Paul Lucas and Casey provide much useful information. Casey has particularly impressed me with the breadth of scientific and mathematical measurement. Spectral lines, eh? It deserves a wider audience .... I always suspected my method of dripping random drops of paints into each other until the right muddy grey-brown is achieved has been misguided all along. I promise to do better in future. 🥣 1 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey Posted July 9, 2023 Share Posted July 9, 2023 (edited) Next set of recipes for: Official United States Aircraft Colors 1908 - 1993 - US Navy and Marine Corps Aircraft Colors 1960 - 1993 Paint mixes are for Liquitex Basic Acrylic Fluid - 12 paints intro set (basically this book: https://www.scalemates.com/books/the-official-monogram-us-navy-and-marine-corps-aircraft-color-guide-john-m-elliott-maj-usmc-ret--110624) 17875 is easier to be made with 4x volume, or you need toothpick to add minuscule amount of paint 17925 and 37925 need at least 30 gram recipe due to very small amount of pigments needed AND even then you will need a toothpick 35044 (insignia blue) is again not really possible without proper pigment 28913 and 28915 are fluorescent, you need fluorescent pigments for those but I gave recipes for closest approximate non-fluorescent colors Spoiler 10049 | GU 84.7 Target: #523F3F, Mixture: #533F3E Mars Black: 150 mg Cadmium Orange Hue: 1350 mg Alizarin Crimson Hue Permanent: 2300 mg Dioxazine Purple: 100 mg DE00: 0.84 11136 | GU 75.8 Target: #943C3D, Mixture: #923E40 Primary Red: 3150 mg Burnt Sienna: 650 mg Alizarin Crimson Hue Permanent: 150 mg DE00: 1.11 12197 | GU 71.1 Target: #CA4E38, Mixture: #C74E36 Primary Red: 300 mg Burnt Sienna: 100 mg Cadmium Orange Hue: 3650 mg DE00: 0.88 13538 | GU 74.7 Target: #F0A515, Mixture: #FDAA00 Primary Yellow: 3800 mg Cadmium Orange Hue: 100 mg DE00: 1.79 14079 | GU 80.2 Target: #56584B, Mixture: #55574A Primary Blue: 350 mg Primary Red: 100 mg Burnt Sienna: 1350 mg Light Green Permanent: 1700 mg Titanium White: 350 mg Mars Black: 150 mg DE00: 0.47 14097 | GU 68.9 Target: #606852, Mixture: #5F6852 Burnt Sienna: 650 mg Cadmium Orange Hue: 100 mg Light Green Permanent: 2350 mg Titanium White: 650 mg Mars Black: 300 mg DE00: 1.01 15044 | GU 67.0 Target: #3D424D, Mixture: #3E434C Primary Blue: 1600 mg Primary Red: 1350 mg Phthalocyanine Green: 800 mg Cadmium Orange Hue: 100 mg Titanium White: 100 mg Mars Black: 150 mg DE00: 1.48 16081 | GU 70.1 Target: #585B5A, Mixture: #585A5A Primary Blue: 450 mg Burnt Sienna: 1200 mg Titanium White: 1250 mg Mars Black: 1050 mg DE00: 0.21 16440 | GU 51.6 Target: #B4B5AD, Mixture: #B3B5AB Primary Blue: 100 mg Burnt Sienna: 150 mg Burnt Umber: 200 mg Titanium White: 3450 mg DE00: 0.72 16473 | GU 63.0 Target: #A2ACA9, Mixture: #A3ADA8 Primary Blue: 150 mg Burnt Umber: 500 mg Titanium White: 3250 mg DE00: 0.62 17038 | GU 75.7 Target: #3B3B3C, Mixture: #3B3B3C Mars Black: 3400 mg Primary Yellow: 350 mg Titanium White: 150 mg DE00: 0.20 17875 | GU 49.5 Target: #E9EBE2, Mixture: #E9E8E2 Alizarin Crimson Hue Permanent: 25 mg Light Green Permanent: 25 mg Titanium White: 4000 mg DE00: 0.75 It is recommended to mix 4x the amount due to small volume of the necesary pigments (or use coctail stick to add the paint to white) 17925 | GU 70.3 Target: #F4F3E7, Mixture: #F3F2E5 Primary Yellow: 50 mg Burnt Umber: 25 mg Titanium White: 29925 mg DE00: 0.26 It is large volume (30g) recipe and you will still need a coctail stick to add the paint to white 26081 | GU 25.5 Target: #595C5B, Mixture: #5A5C5B Primary Blue: 400 mg Burnt Sienna: 1150 mg Titanium White: 1300 mg Mars Black: 1000 mg DE00: 0.22 27038 | GU 24.9 Target: #3D3D3E, Mixture: #3D3D3E Phthalocyanine Green: 500 mg Cadmium Orange Hue: 1100 mg Titanium White: 150 mg Mars Black: 2300 mg DE00: 0.22 28913 | GU 3.4 | Fluorescent - (approximate color) Target: #FB4134, Mixture: #EE5030 Primary Red: 150 mg Cadmium Orange Hue: 3750 mg DE00: 5.88 This is fluorescent color, impossible to be made without fluorescent pigments. This is the closest color achievable (non fluorescent) 28915 | GU 3.7 | Fluorescent Target: #FF5C31, Mixture: #FE5F38 Cadmium Orange Hue: 3800 mg Titanium White: 100 mg DE00: 1.99 This is fluorescent color, impossible to be made without fluorescent pigments. This is the closest color achievable (non fluorescent) 34064 | GU 3.5 Target: #515048, Mixture: #505047 Primary Yellow: 500 mg Primary Blue: 950 mg Burnt Sienna: 2100 mg Titanium White: 300 mg DE00: 0.85 34087 | GU 0.7 Target: #625A44, Mixture: #5F5945 Burnt Sienna: 1250 mg Cadmium Orange Hue: 250 mg Light Green Permanent: 2400 mg Titanium White: 150 mg DE00: 1.54 34088 | GU 1.5 Target: #6A624E, Mixture: #69614D Primary Yellow: 300 mg Primary Blue: 300 mg Burnt Sienna: 1700 mg Light Green Permanent: 1000 mg Titanium White: 600 mg DE00: 0.47 34095 | GU 1.3 Target: #51573E, Mixture: #50563F Primary Yellow: 1200 mg Primary Blue: 300 mg Cadmium Orange Hue: 1600 mg Light Green Permanent: 1050 mg DE00: 0.95 34151 | GU 2.0 Target: #666943, Mixture: #63693F Primary Yellow: 1350 mg Burnt Sienna: 300 mg Cadmium Orange Hue: 550 mg Light Green Permanent: 1700 mg Titanium White: 100 mg DE00: 1.93 35044 | GU 1.1 - (approximate color) Target: #393947, Mixture: #3B3C43 Primary Blue: 2600 mg Phthalocyanine Green: 1450 mg DE00: 6.17 This color needs different pigments, this is closest one you can get with those basic 12 paints 35237 | GU 1.2 Target: #7A898F, Mixture: #7B898E Primary Blue: 350 mg Primary Red: 150 mg Burnt Sienna: 150 mg Burnt Umber: 350 mg Titanium White: 2800 mg Mars Black: 300 mg DE00: 0.25 36081 | GU 1.1 Target: #575A5A, Mixture: #575A59 Primary Blue: 550 mg Burnt Sienna: 1250 mg Titanium White: 1200 mg Mars Black: 950 mg DE00: 0.26 36099 | GU 1.0 Target: #525B61, Mixture: #525B61 Burnt Sienna: 200 mg Phthalocyanine Green: 400 mg Titanium White: 1550 mg Mars Black: 1750 mg DE00: 0.19 36118 | GU 0.9 Target: #5B6169, Mixture: #5B6169 Burnt Sienna: 100 mg Titanium White: 2000 mg Mars Black: 1800 mg DE00: 0.32 36231 | GU 1.6 Target: #7D8285, Mixture: #7E8384 Primary Blue: 100 mg Burnt Sienna: 400 mg Titanium White: 2900 mg Mars Black: 600 mg DE00: 0.48 36320 | GU 1.2 Target: #89939C, Mixture: #89939B Primary Blue: 150 mg Primary Red: 100 mg Burnt Umber: 300 mg Titanium White: 3050 mg Mars Black: 300 mg DE00: 0.27 36375 | GU 1.7 Target: #99A2A9, Mixture: #98A0A8 Dioxazine Purple: 100 mg Light Green Permanent: 200 mg Titanium White: 3450 mg Mars Black: 250 mg DE00: 0.30 36440 | GU 3.1 Target: #AFAFA6, Mixture: #AEB1A4 Primary Blue: 150 mg Burnt Sienna: 350 mg Titanium White: 3450 mg DE00: 1.67 36473 | GU 1.5 Target: #9CA8A6, Mixture: #9CA8A6 Burnt Sienna: 150 mg Phthalocyanine Green: 100 mg Titanium White: 3600 mg Mars Black: 200 mg DE00: 0.49 36495 | GU 2.3 Target: #C2C7C6, Mixture: #B9C2C4 Primary Blue: 100 mg Primary Red: 100 mg Burnt Sienna: 100 mg Titanium White: 3900 mg DE00: 1.67 Or alternatively, using toothpick as measurement device: 36495 | GU 2.3 Target: #C2C7C6, Mixture: #C0C7C5 Primary Blue: 75 mg Primary Red: 50 mg Burnt Sienna: 100 mg Titanium White: 3875 mg DE00: 1.08 37038 | GU 1.1 Target: #3A3A3B, Mixture: #3A3A3C Mars Black: 3350 mg Primary Yellow: 450 mg Titanium White: 100 mg DE00: 0.20 Or simply use Mars Black 37142 | GU 1.3 - (approximate color) Target: #94517C, Mixture: #965874 Alizarin Crimson Hue Permanent: 2850 mg Dioxazine Purple: 200 mg Titanium White: 900 mg DE00: 4.74 37925 | GU 3.5 Target: #EFF0E6, Mixture: #F1EFE6 Burnt Sienna: 50 mg Light Green Permanent: 50 mg Titanium White: 29900 mg DE00: 0.86 This is 30 gram recipe and you might need to use toothpick to measure small amount of pigments. Recipe is not the same as 17925, since those colors differ a tiny bit more than just by finish. 38901 | GU 0.9 Target: #009C45, Mixture: #089C44 Light Green Permanent: 3900 mg Titanium White: 200 mg DE00: 2.23 Blue Angels 1974 | GU 33.9 Target: #374C69, Mixture: #374D6A Primary Blue: 3000 mg Primary Red: 650 mg Burnt Sienna: 100 mg Titanium White: 250 mg DE00: 0.33 Blue Angels 1980 | GU 66.5 Target: #364668, Mixture: #384768 Titanium White: 200 mg Mars Black: 100 mg Primary Blue: 3400 mg Dioxazine Purple: 300 mg DE00: 0.61 Blue Angels 1982 | GU 81.7 Target: #34466C, Mixture: #37476C Primary Blue: 3400 mg Primary Red: 500 mg Titanium White: 150 mg DE00: 0.64 Blue Angels 1983 | GU 73.8 Target: #36476A, Mixture: #384769 Primary Blue: 3150 mg Primary Red: 250 mg Alizarin Crimson Hue Permanent: 200 mg Dioxazine Purple: 100 mg Titanium White: 150 mg DE00: 0.61 Blue Angels 1984 | GU 75.9 Target: #354868, Mixture: #374867 Primary Blue: 3300 mg Alizarin Crimson Hue Permanent: 100 mg Dioxazine Purple: 200 mg Titanium White: 200 mg Mars Black: 100 mg DE00: 0.46 Blue Angels 1986 | GU 60.1 Target: #37496B, Mixture: #384A6C Primary Blue: 3050 mg Burnt Umber: 200 mg Dioxazine Purple: 400 mg Titanium White: 250 mg DE00: 0.40 Edited July 9, 2023 by Casey Alternative option for 36495 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Lucas Posted July 9, 2023 Share Posted July 9, 2023 @Casey, @Yes_Man, @sapperastro, I ordered the 12 colour starter set plus an additional bottle of Silver from Ken Bromley on Friday morning and chose to pay the extra for next day delivery. It arrived courtesy of Royal Mail at 3.50 pm Saturday afternoon. It was well packaged in recycled packaging so I was highly delighted with the service. If I were an arty person in need of art supplies, I would happily buy from them again. On opening the box, the first test was to try brushing some of the paint out to see what it was like. I did this by applying the paint with a quarter inch flat brush to a two inch square piece of artists acrylic paper that had been given two brushed on coats of Vallejo Acrlic-Polyurethane Surface Primer, product code 74.601 Grey, so as to seal the surface. I have applied all sorts of paint to squares treated in this way over the years and found this practice entirely suitable for the purpose. The colour I chose to try first was Primary Blue. I followed the instructions by giving the bottle a very vigorous shaking and then decanted several drops into a palette from where the paint could be transferred to the brush. The first coat did not go on at all well. It appeared to be very translucent, so I took the top off the bottle and tried stirring the paint, thinking that there must be a substantial amount of pigment still in the bottom of the bottle that the shaking that I had administered had failed to dislodge. This did not prove to be the case, so I gave the bottle another darn good shaking. I then tried applying the paint to a paint mule, having first given it a thorough cleaning with methylated spirits. The mule had some areas of bare dark blue plastic, light grey enamel and high gloss white acrylic. Again the paint failed to cover in an even manner, but it was only a first coat, and at that point I left it to dry whilst I had my evening meal. Upon returning about an hour and a half later, the first coat that had been applied to both the paper square and the mule were touch dry, so I gave the bottle another good shaking and applied a second coat to both. I am sorry to say that this second coat went on no better than the first. Neither did the third or fourth coats. The wretched paint simply did not cover, did not self level and brush marks remained clearly visible when the paint dried. I left it for the night at this point, it had been a long and busy week, and I thought it would look better in the morning. But it didn't. Clearly, given Casey's glowing testimonial for this product, I was doing something wrong. So I tried looking at the label again and noticed something that had completely escaped my notice yesterday in my enthusiasm to play with my new toy. According to the label, this colour is only Semi-Opaque. Thus there is not the slightest chance that this paint will provide two coat coverage. It's not me then . . . Having discovered this, I then took a look at the other bottles in the set. It turns out that only four of the colours are classed as Opaque, Titanium White, Mars Black, Burnt Umber and Burnt Sienna. The Silver paint that I had bought separate from the set is also classed as Opaque, so this was the next colour tested. At the same time, I subjected the paint applied to the mule yesterday to a masking test. I applied 6mm wide Tamiya masking tape to the mule so as to apply the Silver to the under surfaces. Once the tape had been thoroughly pressed down, I applied the Silver. The under surface of the mule was in a similar state to the upper surfaces had been before I applied the Liquitex yesterday. Unfortunately, the Silver paint is equally as poor as the blue. It doesn't flow and won't cover. As I write this, it's had three coats and I can still make out the differences in the underlying finish and the surface finish is absolutely terrible. Because I have tried brushing the Silver paint both chord and span wise, the brush marks resemble the 'realistic fabric effect' that used to feature on the biplane kits of yesteryear. When it has had a day or so to harden, I'll try sanding it to see what happens. On the plus side, after the second coat of Silver was touch dry, I tried removing some of the masking tape that had been applied over yesterday's Blue paint. The tape pulled off with no problem whatsoever. It did not bring any of the Blue paint with it, and it left a clean, sharp edge to the Silver. I'll try taking the rest off tomorrow when everything has had a chance to dry overnight, see what happens, and report the result. I have also tried brushing the Burnt Umber and Burnt Sienna. These are a little bit better than the Silver, but not by much. They don't give two coat coverage and brush marks are still evident. I haven't opened and tried the other bottles, at the moment. I was expecting great things from this paint, but I have to say, I am bitterly dissapointed. It is almost as if Casey is using a completely different product to the one that I have. I await further comments from @Yes_Man and @sapperastro with interest. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey Posted July 9, 2023 Share Posted July 9, 2023 (edited) On 7/9/2023 at 2:19 AM, Paul Lucas said: According to the label, this colour is only Semi-Opaque. That is correct. All pure pigments you have will be more or less transparent with only real exception of Mars Black. The paints from this range in their pure form will have the following overall opacity at 150 micron thickness Titanium White: 91.53% Mars Black: 100% Primary Yellow: 33.02% Primary Blue: 56.55% Primary Red: 58.51% Burnt Sienna: 98.78% Burnt Umber: 99.8% Phthalo Green: 67.76% Cadmium Orange: 44.09% Alizarin Crimson: 64.14% Dioxazine Purple: 97.9% Light Green Permanent: 90.76% And this is normal. No amount of pigment will make them less transparent because this is how pigments work. When you are working on making an opaque paint you expect it to 'cover' what is below it, which means it should fully absorb the unwanted (in this example: not blue) wavelengths and scatter back the desired (blue) incoming light and also to be able to do it in a given thickness of a paint. Pure synthetic blue pigment is almost completely transparent to all blue wavelengths while it is highly opaque to every other visible color - it means it passes through wavelengths of blue color. That means if you do not add something to scatter that paint inside the paint layer, it will simply work as a transparent blue foil. For pure pigments usual way to achieve opacity is addition of white/black/siennas. That's why all opaque paint recipes (well, maybe except black) are always mixes, there is rarely (including Insignia Whites!) an use for pure pigment. I did not check their silver yet, but I will get it and give you more details about how this paint behaves. Please try mixing some color and check how it affects the resulting opacity. Another issue you mentioned is paint flow. The product you have is not containing any additives like fillers or flow improvers like what you get in example from Vallejo bottle. It is just pure pigment in acrylic medium - if you want more smooth flow it is you who have full control on this aspect too - by using flow aid - https://www.liquitex.com/row/products/professional/gessoes-mediums-varnishes/flow-aid-additive/ Interestingly thar product is used by modelers to improve flow of other paints, I saw it recommended on this forum too I think. Edited July 10, 2023 by Casey 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Lucas Posted July 9, 2023 Share Posted July 9, 2023 @Casey, thanks for that. Here is further proof, if such proof were needed, that there is nothing quite so ignorant as an educated man trying to deal with a subject in which he has not been educated. I have donned my Dunce hat and will now go and stand in the corner for a while. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yes_Man Posted July 9, 2023 Share Posted July 9, 2023 I plan to airbrush mine exclusively, thinned with some Ultimate thinners (which is just a mix of IPA and flow improver/retarder I believe, but I've used it for years and it's never failed me). Hopefully this will avoid the issue you have had when brushing it @Paul Lucas . Incidentally when airbrushing I subscribe to the school of spray small and thin so if they're not totally opaque that hopefully works to my advantage. Will post my experience when they get here and I have a chance to sit down and the time to actually do some modelling (which, as we all know, is always fleeting). @Casey You're definitely right. Using the "professional artist" flow improvers from Liquitex and Winsor & Newton was definitely the "secret ingredient" many years ago when people were getting great results from Vallejo and Lifecolor. Tell the truth even then, despite trying, I could never get the hang of it and stuck with my Tamiyas/Gunze Aqueous. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Lucas Posted July 9, 2023 Share Posted July 9, 2023 Having served my time in the Dunce's corner, I did as @Casey suggested and tried mixing something. I don't have the necessary equipment to make one of her mixes, so I opened the Black and White bottles and then dropped one spot from each along with one spot of the Blue onto the pallette. I then added a couple of small spots of Liquitex's own flow improver that I had completely forgotten that I already had following an abortive attempt to get a different brand of acrylic paint to flow smoothly several years ago. Then I stirred it up. What a difference!! I can see this working now. The colour that resulted doesn't match anything in particular, but it brushed onto a square flawlessly and gave almost completely opaque coverage with just one coat. With no discernable brush marks in a nice satin finish. It was touch dry after about ten minutes at a temperature of 22 degrees C. On the paint mule, this single coat has almost entirely covered up all the different shades that resulted from my previous bungling. I will go back and apply a second coat in about half an hour's time and report back later this afternoon. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Lucas Posted July 9, 2023 Share Posted July 9, 2023 @Casey, @Yes_Man and @sapperastro and anybody else who's interested, time for today's final thrilling installment of 'Paul vs. Liquitex'. A second coat has now been successfully applied to both the square and the mule. At the same time, I removed another strip of masking tape with complete success without pulling any of the underlying paint off whilst retaining a clean sharp edge. Tomorrow I will remove the remainder of the masking tape and have a go at sanding some of the brush marks down. I will also start looking for a jewelry scale and some sort of empty acrylic paint container. If anyone is thinking of getting one of these sets, I strongly suggest that you get a bottle of Liquitex Flow Improver at the same time. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey Posted July 9, 2023 Share Posted July 9, 2023 (edited) 3 hours ago, Paul Lucas said: I then added a couple of small spots of Liquitex's own flow improver Liquitex recommends diluting their flow aid with water first in 1/10 to 1/20 range and then adding up to 25% of that mixture into the paint - it is easier to control the small amount that is needed to make the paint flow smoothly. When you add too much it can cause poor adhesion and might extend curing time a bit too much into infinity. Interestingly, since brush marks are sometimes needed for painting techniques there exists mediums that will do the opposite - turn paint into 3d capable structures, like coarse texture medium to make sand-like texture (can be useful for dioramas for example) or even a modeling paste medium which will modify any desired color into a clay like substance that can be molded, retain shape and might be sanded or even sculpted when dry. Edited July 9, 2023 by Casey 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey Posted July 9, 2023 Share Posted July 9, 2023 (edited) 8 hours ago, Yes_Man said: I plan to airbrush mine exclusively, thinned with some Ultimate thinners I've airbrushed an un-primed resin 3D printed model with RAF dark green recipe, thinned with Vallejo Airbrush Thinner with some Flow Improver. Here is the result: The paint airburhsed without any problems , covered the grey resin easily without having any effect on details (you can see the 3D printer aliasing effects easily even on my bit blurred camera ) Then I've painted it again with RLM65 from the recipe on RLM section, thinned with Ultimate thinner (I did not measure, but I think it was more or less 1:1 ratio) It again airbrushed without any issues. Here is the same barrel with different camera settings. It improved the sharpness but changed the interpretation of colors You can see the aliasing lines from 3D printing process. The barrel width is 0.9 inch (23 mm) Edited July 9, 2023 by Casey 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nosirrah Posted July 9, 2023 Share Posted July 9, 2023 Although I have only been back into the hobby for 12 months I have found Revell Aqua the best for brushing, which is my only method. Despite shaking, mixing and sturing like a crazy fool the Tamiya paint always seems to clog and then come away with the brush instead of staying on, unless I am doing something wrong there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Lucas Posted July 10, 2023 Share Posted July 10, 2023 A quick update by dawn's early light. I have now removed the remaining masking tape from the mule that has been in place overnight. Once again, there were no problems, it didn't lift any of the blue paint it had been applied over and left a clean sharp edge. I will try sanding some of the brush strokes that resulted from yesterday's bungling this evening, and maybe have a go at sanding the slightly raised edge left by the masking tape. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steben Posted July 10, 2023 Share Posted July 10, 2023 On 08/07/2023 at 23:54, Casey said: And to continue with paint recipes: Here are recipes for Official United States Aircraft Colors 1908 - 1993 - US Navy and Marine Corps Aircraft Colors 1950 - 1959 Paint mixes are for Liquitex Basic Acrylic Fluid - 12 paints intro set In FS standard, colors starting with number 1 are gloss, starting with 2 are satin, starting with 3 are matt. As always will need proper varnish or gloss/satin/matt medium added to the paint. From my measurements, Liquitex Basic Fluid mixes are around 7.0 GU - gloss unit making it low satin, on edge of matt. Problematic colors are: Fluorescent (obviously) and Insignia White, which is requiring so little pigment there is no good way to make it on small quantity, thus the recipe is for rather hefty 30 grams (think: more than a Tamiya jar). Hide contents Aircraft Gray 16473 | GU 39.0 Target: #A4ACAB, Mixture: #A4AEA9 Primary Blue: 150 mg Burnt Umber: 500 mg Titanium White: 3400 mg DE00: 1.15 Black 17038 | GU 71.1 Target: #3C3B3C, Mixture: #3C3B3C Mars Black: 1950 mg Burnt Sienna: 1350 mg Phthalocyanine Green: 550 mg Dioxazine Purple: 150 mg DE00: 0.36 You can use Mars Black directly. Black 37038 | GU 0.6 Target: #373738, Mixture: #393838 Mars Black: 3900 mg Primary Yellow: 100 mg DE00: 1.41 You can use Mars Black directly. Bright Red 31136 | GU 1.1 Target: #A5363A, Mixture: #A0393C Cadmium Orange Hue: 2400 mg Alizarin Crimson Hue Permanent: 1550 mg DE00: 1.97 Dark Gull Gray 36231 | GU 0.8 Target: #7B7F7F, Mixture: #7B7F7F Burnt Sienna: 300 mg Light Green Permanent: 200 mg Titanium White: 2700 mg Mars Black: 700 mg DE00: 0.29 Engine Gray 16081 | GU 73.8 Target: #37678E, Mixture: #36678E Primary Blue: 2300 mg Dioxazine Purple: 200 mg Titanium White: 1150 mg Mars Black: 250 mg DE00: 0.09 Field Green 34097 | GU 0.9 Target: #555D3C, Mixture: #545E3D Mars Black: 150 mg Primary Yellow: 3200 mg Phthalocyanine Green: 100 mg Cadmium Orange Hue: 550 mg DE00: 1.33 Fluorescent Red Orange 28913 | GU 31.2 - (approximate color) Target: #FF3839, Mixture: #EB513E Primary Red: 350 mg Cadmium Orange Hue: 3450 mg Titanium White: 100 mg DE00: 4.08 You need real fluorescent pigment for this color, use Liquitex Basic #983, Fluorescent Red. This is the closest non-fluorescent color you can get. Insignia Blue 15044 | GU 83.4 Target: #3A3F4A, Mixture: #3C4047 Mars Black: 650 mg Primary Blue: 3100 mg Cadmium Orange Hue: 100 mg Alizarin Crimson Hue Permanent: 100 mg Titanium White: 150 mg DE00: 2.31 Insignia Red 11136 | GU 86.5 Target: #9E3A3D, Mixture: #A03B3E Primary Yellow: 400 mg Primary Red: 2700 mg Burnt Sienna: 150 mg Alizarin Crimson Hue Permanent: 650 mg DE00: 0.60 Insignia White 17875 | GU 35.3 Target: #F2EDDA, Mixture: #F5EBD8 Primary Yellow: 100 mg Burnt Sienna: 100 mg Titanium White: 29800 mg DE00: 1.07 This insignia white needs even less pigments than Insignia White from previous years. I am giving a recipe here but it is not for 4g but for 30 and even then it is not perfect. To make it in small quantities you need paint like Unbleached Titanium. Instrument Black 27038 | GU 14.1 Target: #414245, Mixture: #424245 Burnt Sienna: 650 mg Dioxazine Purple: 150 mg Titanium White: 450 mg Mars Black: 2650 mg DE00: 0.28 You can use Mars Black directly. Interior Green 34151 | GU 0.8 Target: #626337, Mixture: #64633C Primary Yellow: 2700 mg Burnt Umber: 500 mg Cadmium Orange Hue: 200 mg Light Green Permanent: 450 mg DE00: 1.45 International Orange 12197 | GU 75.8 Target: #D14C37, Mixture: #D44936 Primary Yellow: 700 mg Primary Red: 200 mg Cadmium Orange Hue: 2900 mg Alizarin Crimson Hue Permanent: 150 mg DE00: 0.45 International Orange 22246 | GU 48.4 Target: #D95D3C, Mixture: #D75D3B Burnt Sienna: 100 mg Cadmium Orange Hue: 3950 mg Titanium White: 100 mg DE00: 1.35 Light Green 14187 | GU 40.6 Target: #588644, Mixture: #588441 Titanium White: 250 mg Primary Yellow: 1100 mg Burnt Sienna: 200 mg Light Green Permanent: 2350 mg DE00: 0.77 Light Gull Gray 36440 | GU 1.5 Target: #B0B1AD, Mixture: #B2AFAC Burnt Sienna: 150 mg Titanium White: 3750 mg Mars Black: 150 mg DE00: 1.56 Maroon 10049 | GU 71.6 Target: #523E3E, Mixture: #513E3D Burnt Umber: 1650 mg Alizarin Crimson Hue Permanent: 2400 mg Dioxazine Purple: 100 mg DE00: 0.61 Medium Green 34079 | GU 0.7 Target: #4C5044, Mixture: #4B4F43 Primary Blue: 300 mg Primary Red: 100 mg Burnt Sienna: 1200 mg Light Green Permanent: 2600 mg DE00: 0.91 Olive Drab 34087 | GU 0.7 Target: #675D46, Mixture: #685D45 Primary Yellow: 1000 mg Burnt Umber: 1850 mg Light Green Permanent: 700 mg Titanium White: 350 mg DE00: 0.43 Orange Yellow 13538 | GU 68.5 Target: #FCAB06, Mixture: #FDAA00 Primary Yellow: 3800 mg Cadmium Orange Hue: 100 mg DE00: 1.49 Orange Yellow 33538 | GU 1.9 Target: #FFB200, Mixture: #FFB100 Primary Yellow: 3750 mg Cadmium Orange Hue: 100 mg Titanium White: 100 mg DE00: 2.44 Sea Blue 15042 | GU 36.8 Target: #414649, Mixture: #41474A Burnt Sienna: 250 mg Phthalocyanine Green: 1050 mg Titanium White: 550 mg Mars Black: 2050 mg DE00: 0.28 Seaplane Gray 26081 | GU 86.8 Target: #595D5D, Mixture: #595C5C Burnt Umber: 1000 mg Light Green Permanent: 500 mg Titanium White: 1250 mg Mars Black: 1150 mg DE00: 0.19 34087 mix in online golden mixer.... yikes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey Posted July 10, 2023 Share Posted July 10, 2023 (edited) 16 hours ago, Steben said: 34087 mix in online golden mixer.... yikes When you try those mixes on Golden Acrylics online mixer the resulting color will be incorrect and this is expected. My mixes from this thread are for Liquitex Basic Fluid - and only for this paint line - it will not work with any other vendor or lines of paints, since they use different pigments and/or pigment concentrations. What you are seeing on their mixer is a math for paints made of those pigments PY175 / PW6 / PY74 (Primary Yellow) PBr7 (Burnt Umber) PY175 / PG7 / PW6 (Permanent Green Light) PW6 (Titanium white) And my recipe is for: PY74 (Primary Yellow) PBr7 (Burnt Umber) PG7 / PY74 / PW6 (Permanent Green Light) PW6 (Titanium white) Even same pure pigments like Burnt Umber and Titanium White have different concentrations and quite often come from different sources. All paint vendors have their preferred pigment source. Concentrations also differ between paint lines of same vendors - that's the main difference between professional and basic acrylics - which means those recipes wont give you proper color with Liquitex Professional line (and possibly not even with Liquitex Basic Acrylics - which are also a different paint line than Liquitex Basic Fluid). Edited July 11, 2023 by Casey 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steben Posted July 11, 2023 Share Posted July 11, 2023 (edited) On 09/07/2023 at 22:47, Nosirrah said: Although I have only been back into the hobby for 12 months I have found Revell Aqua the best for brushing, which is my only method. Despite shaking, mixing and sturing like a crazy fool the Tamiya paint always seems to clog and then come away with the brush instead of staying on, unless I am doing something wrong there. Revell Aqua is ... waterbased. Dries less fast than Tamiya which is alcohol based. When thinned correctly Tamiya is very nice to airbrush because..... it dries fast Edited July 11, 2023 by Steben 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troy Smith Posted July 11, 2023 Share Posted July 11, 2023 On 09/07/2023 at 21:47, Nosirrah said: Despite shaking, mixing and sturing like a crazy fool the Tamiya paint always seems to clog and then come away with the brush instead of staying on, unless I am doing something wrong there. Add water. I use a small syringe and deionized water, as I have some, and add under 5% flow improver, all that does is lower surface tension. Add Tamiya paint too a palette, add water /FI mix until like milk, use a small FLAT brush, brushed in all directions. You can over coat when touch dry, which is not long. You want to overcoat as soon as you can, as the paint bonds to the previous coat, and when cured it's a reasonably tough shell. Note, curing takes longer than just being touch dry. Tamiya paint uses an alcohol as a solvent, which is quite 'hot', so it dries fast, but subsequent paint will dissolve it, causing the lifting problem. Adding water makes it less hot and slows drying slightly. The same works for any acrylic paint. I used the above with Tamiya, Vallejo, Revell aqua and Xtracrylix. I see lots of moaning about acrylics, and often "you can't brush Tamiya" but you just need to know the paint. I tend to use a thin coat of Tamiya as primer under Vallejo, as the Tamiya has a bit more bite on plastic. HTH 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nosirrah Posted July 12, 2023 Share Posted July 12, 2023 Thank you both for the sound advice, I will put these suggestions into practice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey Posted July 12, 2023 Share Posted July 12, 2023 On 7/9/2023 at 2:19 AM, Paul Lucas said: Silver paint is equally as poor as the blue. It doesn't flow and won't cover. I've posted some (simplified) information about how a metallic paints work, I still am waiting for Liquitex Basic silver, but the idea is same: I do not expect it to have real metal flakes though, I'd more suspect mica particles covered with neutral grey. I've explained in the post above why the paint itself should be bit transparent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Lucas Posted July 14, 2023 Share Posted July 14, 2023 It's Friday lunch time and I have just been on Amazon. The scales and some empty paint containers have been ordered. They are to be delivered tomorrow . . . 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yes_Man Posted July 17, 2023 Share Posted July 17, 2023 (edited) I had some modelling time over the weekend to report back on my experiences with the Liquitex paints both with a paintbrush and airbrushing. I mixed up a couple of the RLM colours @Casey has posted in this thread to use on a mule. The mixing by mass went perfectly fine with some micro-scales. The ratios weren't 100% perfect as I was just using a pipette but we're talking only microgram differences here so I imagine it won't have impacted the final result. Not to mention I don't have the source chips to compare to anyway, but that's besides the point. I then mixed the paint mix with 1:1 Liquitex Fluid Matte Medium and it was ready. When it came to airbrushing I had a few problems at first dialling in the airbrush pressure and thinning ratios. At first I just went 1:1 with Ultimate Thinners as I would do with Tamiya/Gunze Aqueous paints (my go-to paint). This was way too thin even though the consistency looked about right in the paint cup (semi-skimmed milk and all that). In the end I think I ended up with about 2:1 Paint-to-thinner. Logic would suggest it would be "too thick" in the paint cup but it sprayed fine through my 0.3mm Mr Hobby airbrush. I had to up the pressure too. I normally spray my 1:1 thinned Tamiya/Aqueous at about 12-15 PSI, but with these I had to push it up to 20-22 PSI. I assume it's got something to do with the pigments being water-based as opposed to the Tamiya/Gunze "hybrid" acrylics where the carrier is alcohol-based. I did a few airbrush tests: general coverage over grey primer, general coverage over black primer (to check coverage/opacity issues particularly on lighter colours), close detailing (like Luftwaffe mottling) and a black-basing technique over black primer (this requires a very close marbling layer and then a more translucent blend coat). The coverage and opacity of the paint was excellent giving a uniform thin layer with just a few passes even with RLM 65 over black primer. My experience with the detailing wasn't as good. The marbling on the black primer especially as I just couldn't get the result that I am used to with Tamiya/Gunze. I'm happy to concede that this could be purely down to user error and the final effect was still one I wouldn't be completely unhappy with if I didn't have the Tamiya/Gunze at hand. In all tests the paint was touch-dry in just a few minutes. After 24 hours I did some tape tests to see if the paint would lift and none came up so another point for Liquitex against other water-based paints which I've used that could easily be lifted after dry. For a bonus I decided to try it with a brush even though I do 99% of my painting with the airbrush. I thinned it again in the palette with just a drop or 2 of Ultimate thinners then, with a large flat brush, painted it on in a single direction. After letting it dry, which again it does very quickly, I went back and added 2 more coats. The coverage here is great even with lighter colours like RLM 65. The quality of the pigments probably helps. The result was a really nice levelled layer of paint with no visible brush streaks. For brush painting I think this is a great choice and vastly superior to many of the other water-based acrylics I've tried (forget brush painting Tamiya/Gunze at all). It's made me consider an "all-paintbrush only" challenge build in the near future as the finish was that good and relatively easy to achieve. So for a conclusion it's a bit of a conflicting one for me: The mixes Casey has provided seem very accurate to me and actually mixing them up was no bother at all. They do everything they need to do: spray well both in detail and general coverage, dry quickly and don't stink up the place like alcohol or lacquer acrylics do. My own personal issue is that it was a bit of a faff getting them completely dialled in and, if I'm honest, it took me far longer to get used to how they spray than it probably should have. Even after getting used to them when it came to the close detailing I still couldn't get a finish as good as I could with Tamiya/Gunze. This was a bit alarming to me as most of my detail airbrushing is done with a 0.18mm needle and I felt that if I was struggling to get the detail how I wanted it with 0.3mm I'd struggle further with the smaller needle size. I could be barking up the wrong tree here but I think it's to do with the "hybrid" nature of the Tamiya/Gunze paints, sitting between lacquers and water-based acrylics in regards to how they behave. Call me stubborn but I think I will just stick with my Tamiya/Gunze paints. The process for spraying them is one I am already very comfortable with and, with the mixes Casey has provided for the Tamiya paints in other threads, I can get very close matches to her source colours. They may not be as completely accurate as the "pure" pigments, but the trade-off for ease of use to me is worth it. Not to mention that I was previously mixing Tamiya anyway with colours from the internet that seemingly looked right but were nowhere near what Casey has provided in terms of maths-backed accuracy. When you place these old mixes next to Casey's it becomes very clear how different they actually are, so fundamentally using her Tamiya mixes is already a vast improvement for me. I'm happy to take the win here and not mess with a good thing. Now of course the one major trade off here is that Tamiya/Gunze thinned with Alcohol thinners still smell with all the negative health-implications that brings. I'm fortunate enough to have an extraction booth and a dedicated hobby room so it's not a deal-breaker for me. If you're someone however, that is spraying in a communal area with just an open window nearby (as I was when I first started airbrushing with Vallejo paints) and/or the health implications of spraying atomised alcohol are a concern then I think these Liquitex paints are a really great option to consider. Using Casey's mixes you will get far more accurate results than most of the other dedicated model paint manufacturers at a cost which is much less after the initial investment of the basic set. Quick summary: If you're after highly accurate, non-alcohol/lacquer based acrylic paints that do their job admirably and at a price-point that won't break the bank you could do far worse than using Liquitex (or Golden Acrylics if you can get them) with the mixes Casey has been helpfully providing. Edited July 18, 2023 by Yes_Man 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey Posted July 17, 2023 Share Posted July 17, 2023 (edited) 2 hours ago, Yes_Man said: I did a few airbrush tests: general coverage over grey primer, general coverage over black primer (to check coverage/opacity issues particularly on lighter colours), close detailing (like Luftwaffe mottling) and a black-basing technique over black primer (this requires a very close marbling layer and then a more translucent blend coat). The coverage and opacity of the paint was excellent giving a uniform thin layer with just a few passes even with RLM 65 over black primer. My experience with the detailing wasn't as good. The marbling on the black primer especially as I just couldn't get the result that I am used to with Tamiya/Gunze. (...) For brush painting I think this is a great choice and vastly superior to many of the other water-based acrylics I've tried (forget brush painting Tamiya/Gunze at all). That's a very valuable feedback! Out of curiosity, did you try additional flow improver or Liquitex airbrush medium? Edited July 17, 2023 by Casey Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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