Steben

I tested this and it is definitely more towards brown.

Revell should stick to their RAL matches and keep them consistent. Let the modellers mix.

True. Carbon / Lamp black is the reference. All of the RAL mixes are with RAL9005. Closest to lamp black. Although I mixed some with RAL9011 with almost exactly same result. Both are slightly slightly biased towards blue. I did some quick mixes with bone black too to be honest. Especially for fun mixes. The difference with lamp black was not big. The usual one being more black to be mixed. Differences in amounts of other pigments do a lot more. I mean a yellow oxide mixed with bone black still is a greenish olive drab and a yellow ochre or sienna mixed with bone black is less greenish. The amount of red oxide completely overrules the black pigment's character.

Another "do not get fooled by internet pictures" example. Both pictures show the same painted swatches.... (and both are off)

Revell 86 = RAL 7008 Most Revell paints are RAL . In fact the particular picture with the OD card over the swatches is made with Revell 86..... Revell 382 = RAL 8001 for example These are Revell 382 with two different amounts of black in full sunlight which makes it very brownish. The lower one is a very nice PC10 (and interwar Belgian Khaki).

It all occured to when I mixed RAL7008 with black. This gave a beautiful US Army Olive Drab with the right amount, at least in flat version. With more black it became the darker greener USAF OD41. Simple mix but careful TO mix. Simple pigmentation and understanding of colours leads to clear mixing.

What really sticks to me in Casey's list is the comparison of many colours to the same "ready mixed" paints. If we look at Revell 42 for example it can be used for many many many greens. As I said earlier, DE00 > 1 already jumps into my eyes. What we might learn here is the fact many many factory model paints are way off, yet some are a good base for further mixing or weathering. And a DE00 of around 1 with just a little touch can give almost perfect results. And all these lists of Casey are a golden rule book leading through the maze. I do admit sometimes I think the days where there were far less paints the mixing phase was only natural routine. Perhaps we must just accept it still is. On top of that. Some real life colours ARE almost the same. Nato green, Dark green, Dark Drab, ... (and that is only in the BS range!) if you compare these they are just as much acceptable (or not) as many model paint comparisons in the lists here are.

The golden mixer online reduces the mix into 1 yellow ochre to 2 raw umber only at minimal difference.

Ow yes. I phrased it wrongly. I mean pc10 was adopted by the US airforces in their start. Thus evolved in olive drab. All colours evolved and had aging. Definitely. But this recipe helps me in determining a "central" colour. Most colours at that time were earth pigment based. And they do turn brownish in time. As can be seen on helmets too. Yellow fades. This turns glossy greenish into flat brownish.

Yes. Depends on one's definition of green. Olive drab is not green nor brown. But most call it one of these. Pc10 is and was called brown or green, us od in ww2 was called brown too by some. What is sure is the fact pc10 started along with the start of the American Air force. And the ubiquitous olive drab was the successor.

Hi Guys, I started with something I wanted to do for a long time now. Checking what colour the following original PC10 mix gave: To achieve this I had to recalculate pigment wiegth into pgiment volume and paint volume. Every pigment has its ratio. The result is ..... an OLIVE DRAB. I tested some deviations (weight, type of colours).... But the difference was very very small. The colour only changes its character a lot with very much blue or red wya beyond unvoluntary error. It clearly is: - not that dark - Brown if seen next to green or blue, - Greenish next to brown. - Very comparable to Archer's MONOGRAM colour swatch which looks a bit darker and less chroma but it is more flat. A bit of raw umber extra gets you there. The later Khaki Green no3 sits there too somewhat. This fantastic model is IMHO spot on to what I see in real life: https://www.theaerodrome.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35939

https://www.facebook.com/ChurchillMinotaur/posts/pfbid02HYjhsdfTmkKco9TAyXNTiZzwmB5swt1YrUXKaCDCDUaJcapybiWBvtjvbxQjiEtxl?comment_id=2771343616339455&notif_id=1694368160460954&notif_t=feedback_reaction_generic&ref=notif Done in SCC15.

Great monocolour Leopard. A tank in single drab seems boring to most but this is another example of the opposite. Tie with a Centurion IMHO

possible, but probably typo.... it would be much more the case for a continental vendor

Man. Stunning topic.