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Steben

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    Zulte Belgium

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  1. Nice. I have a 1/72 Leo 1 around. Aiming at a Belgian 1A3BE.
  2. Wouldn't say RAL7008 is a dark brown, Mike. The modern (read: post-WW2) name is Khakigrau (khakigrey) which is a much better name. Apparently many modern RAL names are much better suited. Let's be honest: Dunkelgelb for example is not a fitting name for any RAL7028. Graugelb or Staubgelb is much better.
  3. Oils & Acryclics... Classic Pigment colour and RAL mix.....
  4. +1 That's what I thought too. It's modelling right?
  5. Looking at this bundled info, I'ld say adding a tad more 924 to the SCC15 mix might do the trick. Although it is still perhaps not grey enough, a bit too saturated.
  6. Great model. Great interpretation of dust and effects. And grrrrrrreat dark grey! nothing bling bling. Some may find that boring. But it is bang on.
  7. My father in law used to paint vehicles during his service years. It's about same 1979-80 era. Belgium used nato green IRR by then. It was a drabby sticky paste, not airbrush paint at all. British, French and Belgian nato green are very alike (STANAG you know...) and juuuuust slightly greener than RAL7013. A bit "tanned" NATOI GREEN by yellowing or dark thinner and RAL7013 is already surpassed. The weirdness includes No 298 Olive Drab, which in dull flat mode comes close to ww2 SCC15. Them Brits are funny guys, switching back and forth between obsolete colours from 1945 to late 1970ties . Belgians are not better just different: first let's use the specific paint used on the specific vehicle of our allied suppliers, then let's use a slightly different version of what others use, but not too much, we're not French!
  8. "Don't Tell Me That It's Over" is clearly my favourite AM song
  9. Update: getting very close with RAL1011 + RAL7013 + RAL8027 Fine tuning led to more 1011 and 7013 to 8027. 8027 is a very strong tinting colour (because of the red). Steve Zaloga suggests Tamiya XF49 as base for WW1 olive drab. But I find it too green compared to the oil mix. Adding a tad of XF52 (Flat Earth) helps a lot!
  10. The colour is very very very indescribable. It is glossy and gets its tone due to a certain "thickness". This means it is very variable. It varies from grayish brown like a dark RAL 7006 to "caramel olive", close to Field Drab. If one sees this colour one understands in a second the PC10 rants. Do not forget this 1 brown earth pigment tinted with white. Add the different raw umber pigments used and the chaos is ready to embark. The raw umber I used is Daler & Rowney. Classic Pbr7. Nothing wrong with it. But there are lighter and greener ones. They do tend to be called "light" and "green" umber as well... so .... not sure it actually means anything. The mix of all elements except the umber looks like a semi transparent titan buff. So that may be a great road to try.
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