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Peter2

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  1. If the problem is that there isn't enough plastic 'surface' on the edge of the jacket part to attach it to the rest of the model, perhaps a piece of plastic card could be glued to the part, then push that plastic card inside the model, and glue it, to hold the jacket part onto the rest of the model? Hard to explain, but it might spark a better idea. I vaguely remember on a 1978 trip to London being impressed by a model entry at the Model Engineering Exhibition: a modeller had heavily converted that 1/9 scale Italeri figure to an SS non-commissioned officer (I think), wearing a 'Tiger' camouflage jacket, smoking a cigarette. He brought the basic kit to an advanced level of authenticity. There might be an image of that entry on the Internet.
  2. Sic transit gloria mundi. As long as we don't fall into the trap of a falsis principiis proficisci, especially when it's a case of absente reo. I hope we are absit invidia about a fellow member. For now, Roma locuta, causa finita.
  3. I imagine a compact non-commercial site like Britmodeller has to be careful about legal matters and boring regulations such as these, since the site doesn't have the corporate clout to upset large companies such as those which own YouTube. President Jack Nicholson asked in the movie Mars Attacks! 'why can't we all just get along?' (Five mins. later, he was unfortunately zapped ...) Your Tracey Island will remain a fine piece of modelling, if I say so myself. I hope to see more 'Anderson-mania' in future!
  4. As I understand it, the guide horns are those little 'prongs' sticking up from each track section, intended to help the track run between or against a tank's road wheels, and reduce the risk of the track being 'thrown' (a phrase that means 'thrown off'), which would be disastrous for the mobility of the tank! Some tanks, for example the Panther, had a hole in each track guide horn to reduce the overall weight of the tracks. Sometimes tank kits don't reproduce this small detail: especially older kits.
  5. This fine result shows how far small-scale models have come, and further advanced in the hands of a dedicated modeller. It is said that General Patton opposed sandbags as being cowardly, while someone on the Quora site mentions that Steve Zaloga commented in his Panzerfaust vs Sherman (Osprey) that 'Patton had been convinced by his Ordnance officers that sandbags were ineffective and a potential handicap to tank performance due to their weight'.
  6. I was curious as to how much after-market tracks cost. I entered Cheapest Panther Tracks on Google and a plastic Tamiya set came up on Amazon at £21. One review of these states 'The quality and fit is good as you would expect from Tamiya, and at a reasonable price. The downside is that the track guide horns are molded solid, not hollow as on the actual Panther tank, so this can make it look overly simplified or incorrect to some people's eyes. Decide for yourself if this is important.' .
  7. The attention to detail is transforming this old-school kit into a more updated version. I was interested in that butterfly valve you mentioned in the exhaust, as I hadn't heard of those valves before, so I looked it up online: it seems these valves play a part in directing exhaust gases. I always believed that object in the exhaust was a piece of metal placed there to prevent an enemy soldier dropping a grenade (say) into the exhaust. (Maybe it does that as well?) I read elsewhere that German tank turret armour was made from fairly smooth rolled steel and so there should not be a huge amount of model putty texture required in that particular area. Another trick to add texture is to spread some liquid glue carefully and then stipple it gently with an old toothbrush.
  8. It looks like the real life vehicle would have looked like, I imagine, so that is a success in itself. That minuscule barbed wire looks dangerous - as it should!
  9. Nice detailing and drawing. Can I ask why you chose a scale of 1/43? For example 1/35 scale might provide more "spare parts" and accessories such as fuel cans, helmets, crates and so on to complement your scratchbuilding; as well as personnel to accompany the model.
  10. Rusty yet stylish. I am especially fascinated by your miniature newspapers and magazines: do you purchase those or do you download them from Internet original images and print them out in 1/6 scale?
  11. Perhaps the red (a warm colour) is swamping the blue (a cool colour) when the two are mixed together and so the final result seems too "warm and brownish"? I wonder if you added more blue to your red/blue mixture, maybe that would give you the cooler purple you seek? For grab handles, you might also try paper clips, as these will bend and cut easily, and afterwards they should hold the shape of the handles (or tiedowns) better than bendable soft wire. Also, apart from the small steel types of paper clips which everyone has been familiar with since time immemorial, stationery shops sell bigger jumbo-sized paper clips which are made of a slightly thicker diameter metal, some having a "brass" finish - a box of them can cost around 3 dollars/pounds/euros (or whatever currency isn't subject to hyper inflation, since I typed this sentence ). These thicker clips might be handy for thick grab handles; handles for on-vehicle tools; various straight "rods" such as cleaning rods; and other applications. Though thicker, these jumbo clips still can be cut with a snips, say.
  12. Good recovery from those modelling boobytraps. Your model is gradually looking like Tamiya's box art, so you are succeeding. You asked about tips for making grab handles the same size, so I Googled it. One video (among others) that came up is "How To Make Scale Model Door Handles, Ladders, Grab Rails, Tie Points Thin Copper or Brass Wire" at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RtRLfOjGYkM. Over the years I have seen various tips on this site and other sites about making handles, so there is a lot of experience available: it seems to me that bending the wire over exactly the same thickness of whatever "former" you are using is vital, to ensure each grab handle you make will end up a consistent size matching its neighbouring handles. So you might bend your piece of wire in the jaws of a long-nosed pliers (for example); I suggest you attach a piece of paper sticky label or masking tape to one of the jaws, then draw a pencil line on the paper/tape at the position where you are bending: so then you can be sure each handle is bending over the same diameter. Or bend the wire over a "former" such as a very small rectangle of scrap wood or even a popsicle stick, or whatever makes the right internal "gap" for your handles, to produce a veritable assembly line of perfectly matching handles, tiedowns or loops.
  13. Perhaps "Utopia Planetia" in the title of the thread could be amended to the more accurate "Utopia Planitia"?
  14. Interesting that the Space Jockey set cost $500,000. If the film's budget was $14 million, that's one-twentieth-eighth of the budget for a scene that has quite a short duration compared with the overall picture length. Wonder what the production accountant said about that? And after filming was complete, that set was eventually consigned the proverbial skip (or an actual skip), like so much cinematic firewood (the most expensive form of fuel). Today Elon Musk would probably buy the retired Space Jockey set (when time travel is invented he will, I predict - or has done already, on some timeline). He would then restore it and display it, perhaps next to Theb's accurate model (whose model may have inspired HR Giger's design in another alternative timeline).
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