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Everything posted by Steben

  1. Nice. I have a 1/72 Leo 1 around. Aiming at a Belgian 1A3BE.
  2. Wouldn't say RAL7008 is a dark brown, Mike. The modern (read: post-WW2) name is Khakigrau (khakigrey) which is a much better name. Apparently many modern RAL names are much better suited. Let's be honest: Dunkelgelb for example is not a fitting name for any RAL7028. Graugelb or Staubgelb is much better.
  3. Oils & Acryclics... Classic Pigment colour and RAL mix.....
  4. +1 That's what I thought too. It's modelling right?
  5. Looking at this bundled info, I'ld say adding a tad more 924 to the SCC15 mix might do the trick. Although it is still perhaps not grey enough, a bit too saturated.
  6. Great model. Great interpretation of dust and effects. And grrrrrrreat dark grey! nothing bling bling. Some may find that boring. But it is bang on.
  7. My father in law used to paint vehicles during his service years. It's about same 1979-80 era. Belgium used nato green IRR by then. It was a drabby sticky paste, not airbrush paint at all. British, French and Belgian nato green are very alike (STANAG you know...) and juuuuust slightly greener than RAL7013. A bit "tanned" NATOI GREEN by yellowing or dark thinner and RAL7013 is already surpassed. The weirdness includes No 298 Olive Drab, which in dull flat mode comes close to ww2 SCC15. Them Brits are funny guys, switching back and forth between obsolete colours from 1945 to late 1970ties . Belgians are not better just different: first let's use the specific paint used on the specific vehicle of our allied suppliers, then let's use a slightly different version of what others use, but not too much, we're not French!
  8. "Don't Tell Me That It's Over" is clearly my favourite AM song
  9. Update: getting very close with RAL1011 + RAL7013 + RAL8027 Fine tuning led to more 1011 and 7013 to 8027. 8027 is a very strong tinting colour (because of the red). Steve Zaloga suggests Tamiya XF49 as base for WW1 olive drab. But I find it too green compared to the oil mix. Adding a tad of XF52 (Flat Earth) helps a lot!
  10. The colour is very very very indescribable. It is glossy and gets its tone due to a certain "thickness". This means it is very variable. It varies from grayish brown like a dark RAL 7006 to "caramel olive", close to Field Drab. If one sees this colour one understands in a second the PC10 rants. Do not forget this 1 brown earth pigment tinted with white. Add the different raw umber pigments used and the chaos is ready to embark. The raw umber I used is Daler & Rowney. Classic Pbr7. Nothing wrong with it. But there are lighter and greener ones. They do tend to be called "light" and "green" umber as well... so .... not sure it actually means anything. The mix of all elements except the umber looks like a semi transparent titan buff. So that may be a great road to try.
  11. Check out the WIP results: https://www.facebook.com/drabityourself
  12. Kate Bush is great. Reminds me though of the debut songs of Dutch Within Temptation. Their first album is almost 25 years old damn I'm getting older
  13. Dark Slate Grey is definitely not DOD41. But does not answer the question whether it was used as such or not.
  14. Official standards of Dark OD 41 and ANA613 are not similar at all besides the fact they are a kind of olive drab of course. Dark OD 41 was assumed to be equivalent to/ usable as Dark Green (not exactly a match). But I am a bit confused here and haven't touched this theme. EDSG = Extra Dark Sea Grey or Extra Dark Sea Green? DSG = Dark Sea Grey or Dark Slate Grey or Dark Sea Green? You see that's why numbers are invented
  15. OK Folks. Next step. And it is a big one. Not 100% true copy, but engineered approximation. - non-rectified/non-purified linseed oil - dark dryer - turpentine (you know the tree stuff) - raw umber oil paint paste - Flake white hue paint paste (I had the opportunity to buy lead white, but on top of it being rather on the toxic side it was 20 bucks for one small tube...) Mixed in the proportions as described. The flake white hue immediately felt like something different from zinc or titanium white, albeit based on both . It was low tinting, but not transparent. Ideal! And God, I love the smell of linseed oil and some turpentine. The dryer somewhat less... I'm so impatient. I'll let you guys know the dry result ASAP. But let me tell you already: it is again very close to FS30118 / 33105. Probably lighter since it is wet glossy, while the two FS colours are flat... After all these repetitive signs: the WW1 olive drab was in all probability a version of what we call field drab. And it is much closer to pig slob than any ww2 olive drab I've seen.
  16. Close up of thick glaze spots and FS30118...
  17. Absolutely. And it still looks grey in some conditions.
  18. By the way: Very close to a FS30118 swatch I have, but just slightly more greyish. think of a faded field drab jerrycan which got a clear coat.
  19. Results of raw umber + zinc white + glazing.
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