echen Posted January 28, 2023 Author Share Posted January 28, 2023 @Old pro I have two lengths left. One is a link longer than the other. Looks like I will have the same issue rhs as on lhs.😣 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old pro Posted January 29, 2023 Share Posted January 29, 2023 15 hours ago, echen said: @Old pro I have two lengths left. One is a link longer than the other. Looks like I will have the same issue rhs as on lhs.😣 I don’t get it, all the wheels are fixed, unlike Zvezda where the idler wheel is moveable making the tracks too long or too short if positioned wrong, there is no ambiguity on the Revell kit. I used the two shorter lengths (because who needs instructions 😳) by mistake and it was such a tight fit that both the sprocket and idler sheared (Revell plastic doesn’t age well) it will be one of those big mysteries 😱 fun fact, I got the track to fit around the idler and sprocket by scoring the inside of the track where it fits to those items. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
echen Posted January 30, 2023 Author Share Posted January 30, 2023 (edited) A mystery indeed! @Old proMaybe we have different versions. Scalemates shows a 2013 and a 2014 issue. Any chance of some pics here of your T-90 tracks progress? Edited January 30, 2023 by echen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PlaStix Posted January 30, 2023 Share Posted January 30, 2023 Hi echen. Hope you are well. Good idea for a project and both are looking really great. Annoying about the tracks though. Hopefully you are able to get them sorted but don't forget, with tanks, muck and mud are your friend! Kind regards, Stix 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old pro Posted January 30, 2023 Share Posted January 30, 2023 5 hours ago, echen said: A mystery indeed! @Old proMaybe we have different versions. Scalemates shows a 2013 and a 2014 issue. Any chance of some pics here of your T-90 tracks progress? No problems this is the result of using the two shorter lengths, as you can see it only just fits! now it gets interesting This is the result of using the correct parts, I.e one short, one long, same problem as you, which is really interesting as it is 97links as opposed to 96 in the first picture! It is however an easy fix, if you just cut one link out. you don’t have to take the tracks off to do it, even more odd that there is more play for a bit of sag even though you are using 96 links as in the first photo! That said once you put the top on it is all hidden hope it helps 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old pro Posted January 30, 2023 Share Posted January 30, 2023 5 hours ago, echen said: A mystery indeed! @Old proMaybe we have different versions. Scalemates shows a 2013 and a 2014 issue. The difference between the 2013 issues and 2014 issue is the difference between the T 90 and T 90A the 2014 kit is the A with a new turret and different tracks and a few other bits otherwise they are the same kit. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
echen Posted January 30, 2023 Author Share Posted January 30, 2023 @Old pro Your T-90 looks great. Hopefully I'll get away with losing just the one link too - and maybe a bit more bending. The scoring of the inside of the tracks sounds a great idea; much more focussed than hot water/hairdryers! Plan of attack for link removal is the two tabs at 1 and a good sanding to flatten the joint face; then the rest of the link across at 2 and finally the two shoulders of what remains to accommodate the outer edge parts on the other end of the tracks. I'll not bother with the other side yet in case this goes pear-shaped. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old pro Posted January 30, 2023 Share Posted January 30, 2023 54 minutes ago, echen said: @Old pro Your T-90 looks great. Hopefully I'll get away with losing just the one link too - and maybe a bit more bending. The scoring of the inside of the tracks sounds a great idea; much more focussed than hot water/hairdryers! Plan of attack for link removal is the two tabs at 1 and a good sanding to flatten the joint face; then the rest of the link across at 2 and finally the two shoulders of what remains to accommodate the outer edge parts on the other end of the tracks. I'll not bother with the other side yet in case this goes pear-shaped. That would work, I was going to explain but the photos came out crappy, hopefully you’ll get the idea as it’s too dark to redo them. I just cut straight across the last link on the left, then remove the 3 tabs from the right and just stick them together the join is where the white piece of plastic is 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
echen Posted January 30, 2023 Author Share Posted January 30, 2023 2 minutes ago, Old pro said: I just cut straight across the last link on the left, @Old pro That looks a lot less complicated................................. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sardaukar Posted January 30, 2023 Share Posted January 30, 2023 I'm sure I'll be checking out this thread if I ever get round to mine, although at this rate we could probably do a T-72/90 super thread, I'll throw in my TOS which has its own track challenges. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
echen Posted January 30, 2023 Author Share Posted January 30, 2023 @sardaukar What about Pzh 2000s? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old pro Posted January 30, 2023 Share Posted January 30, 2023 3 hours ago, echen said: @Old pro Your T-90 looks great. Hopefully I'll get away with losing just the one link too - and maybe a bit more bending. The scoring of the inside of the tracks sounds a great idea; much more focussed than hot water A word of warning though, don’t get too carried away, in the picture I actually used the tip of a scalpel and cut into the vertical lines and scored the horizontal then just bend each link If you look closely at one of the other pictures, you can see where I forgot to bend one link around the idler😳 they best way I found is to glue both lengths together on a flat surface, mark where you want to bend at the first and last road wheels, do those then bend up and mark where it hits the idler and sprocket and then do 5 links for each. For these I was just messing around, your story intrigued me, I have loads of hulls hanging round (more hulls than models I want to build) I haven’t actually made a T 90 yet, I have plenty of A’s but have a Tankograd or ARMORY T 72B turret when I do, more than likely use the ARMORY as it needs some minor changes for a T 90. The turret on the photo is for a T 72(mod 89) or BM or whatever it’s called nowadays 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sardaukar Posted January 30, 2023 Share Posted January 30, 2023 58 minutes ago, echen said: @sardaukar What about Pzh 2000s? I have a PzH 2000 in the stash too, although my head has been all T-tanks recently . 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
echen Posted January 31, 2023 Author Share Posted January 31, 2023 (edited) Having got the T-90 LHS tracks joined up - they're under a bit of tension but will sit down on the return rollers with some CA after they've been painted. Next I attacked the T-90 RHS tracks. I used @Old pro's scoring technique instead of heat to bend them. First I set up the rear length after scoring the joints requiring bending. Next I cemented the lower length to the rioadwheels, let it set then cemented the upper bend to the sprocket. I then scored the front section, bent it to shape and cemented the lower run to the road wheels. Once set I began cementing the upper bend round the idler a link at a time. I then removed the extra link (I suspect 2 parts 17 would have been better than a 17 and 17A), added some sag and joined up the two sections of the top track run. Again it's a bit under tension but will settle on the rollers once painted and CA applied. Once painted I plan to remove the front mud-flaps both sides and a section or two of the side skirts - depending on how well the visible track sections turn out. The aim is to build a well used and abused T-90, abandoned, repaired and operated under new management. Edited January 31, 2023 by echen 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
echen Posted February 18, 2023 Author Share Posted February 18, 2023 (edited) A bit more progress. An initial coat of Humbrol Acryllic 117 on the lower hull and running gear. I've added some of the turret components and, in anticipation of some superficial damage to the side skirts, I've removed the front mud flaps. Edited February 20, 2023 by echen 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
echen Posted February 20, 2023 Author Share Posted February 20, 2023 I still recall the olden days when kit destructions included details of what each part represented. How about this part -it is B50 in the destructions. (Lower left hand corner.) It is to be painted silky matt black. Anyone got any ideas what it is - and why it couldn't be moulded with the gun cover? Not sure if it goes on vertically or horizontally - always assuming the carpet monster doesn't get it as it pings off the sprue........................ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old pro Posted February 20, 2023 Share Posted February 20, 2023 2 hours ago, echen said: I still recall the olden days when kit destructions included details of what each part represented. How about this part -it is B50 in the destructions. (Lower left hand corner.) It is to be painted silky matt black. Anyone got any ideas what it is - and why it couldn't be moulded with the gun cover? Not sure if it goes on vertically or horizontally - always assuming the carpet monster doesn't get it as it pings off the sprue........................ It’s supposed to be a cover over the coaxial MG, it fits next to the main gun on the turret 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
echen Posted February 21, 2023 Author Share Posted February 21, 2023 (edited) 16 hours ago, Old pro said: It’s supposed to be a cover over the coaxial MG, it fits next to the main gun on the turret @Old pro Of course it is! Found a pic in the destructions showing it in place! I hunted high and low for T90 pix and couldn't see the part where I thought it had to go. Obviously I was just doing a "man look" as my better half describes my efforts to find stuff. Edited February 21, 2023 by echen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old pro Posted February 21, 2023 Share Posted February 21, 2023 3 hours ago, echen said: @Old pro Of course it is! Found a pic in the destructions showing it in place! I hunted high and low for T90 pix and couldn't see the part where I thought it had to go. Obviously I was just doing a "man look" as my better half describes my efforts to find stuff. Yeah it’s really hard to spot because of all the gubbins in the way 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sardaukar Posted February 21, 2023 Share Posted February 21, 2023 6 minutes ago, Old pro said: Yeah it’s really hard to spot because of all the gubbins in the way I've wondered about this, does this mean the barrel doesn't protrude or is it retractable? I guess if you want to go full NBC buttoned up that is the reason for the cover? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old pro Posted February 21, 2023 Share Posted February 21, 2023 (edited) 12 minutes ago, sardaukar said: I've wondered about this, does this mean the barrel doesn't protrude or is it retractable? I guess if you want to go full NBC buttoned up that is the reason for the cover? The barrel does protrude slightly out of the front, the cover is usually added when snorkelling as it is just an opening to the inside of the turret, Although this is a B3 turret it is the exact same base as the T 90, you can see on this that the cover has been moved to one side exposing the coax mg. The over pressure system should stop gas etc from entering but I presume can’t handle water pressure when submerged. Edited February 21, 2023 by Old pro More info 1 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PlaStix Posted February 24, 2023 Share Posted February 24, 2023 That all looks to be progressing rather well echen! Kind regards, Stix 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
echen Posted February 28, 2023 Author Share Posted February 28, 2023 A few hours in the man-cave. Filled the hollows in the hull over the tracks and ground the skirts at the joints ready for removing the sections I intended to cut away. Cut away the lost skirt penels leaving the attachment points in place. Added a second coat of Humbrol 117 to the lower hull and rollers and a first coat to upper hull and turret. Cemented the skirts in place and dry fitted the hull together. Starting to look a little "tankish" methinks. I think it'll look much better after some paint meets the tracks........................ 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sardaukar Posted February 28, 2023 Share Posted February 28, 2023 nice, it looks 'lived in' 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old pro Posted March 1, 2023 Share Posted March 1, 2023 17 hours ago, echen said: A few hours in the man-cave. Filled the hollows in the hull over the tracks and ground the skirts at the joints ready for removing the sections I intended to cut away. Cut away the lost skirt penels leaving the attachment points in place. Added a second coat of Humbrol 117 to the lower hull and rollers and a first coat to upper hull and turret. Cemented the skirts in place and dry fitted the hull together. Starting to look a little "tankish" methinks. I think it'll look much better after some paint meets the tracks........................ Just a quick one before you push on, the sensor mast is upside down, the big bit should be at the top, coming along nicely though. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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