correct light and position when airbrushing

[dimimate]

Hi. I am on my fist build hence my knowledge to the hobby is still very limited.  I have a problem when it comes to airbrushing my model. I cannot see/determine where and when the paint hits the surface and how wet it ends up. 

When I start the initial (first pass) of paint I do can tell how mist the color is due to contrast (surface is different color than the one I paint). On the second or third pass of airbrushing, however, I again I cannot tell how wet the surface is or where exactly the paint lands since the surface is now the same color as the one I am airbrushing. 

The problem becomes worst when I start AB varnish. I cannot tell how much I paint until It's too late (surface flooded). Occasionally I rotate the model under the light and then I can tell where and at what volume the paint hits the surfaces since it's shiny.

I have a  small table (150 x 150 cm) with a 6500K (60w) lamp in the top left corner  which lights center of the table.

Is there any rule of thumb when it comes to light, position e.t.c?
Is this a common issue faced by modelers or am I doing something completely wrong? 

[dnl42]

Use a "glancing light", which is light from a source where the rays of the light hit the subject at an acute angle. This accentuates surface textures--including defects--and allows you to see the painting hitting the subject. Your paint should be slightly wet when it hits the surface. If it's dry when it hits the surface, you can get an orange peel or worse. I spray very close in, about 1 cm to 5 cm from the surface.

 

Here's a more complete description of my technique.

 

HTH

-- 

dnl

[Corsairfoxfouruncle]

I always hold the model at an odd angle if memory is correct the term is oblique. When/where the paint hits the model you can see a shadow of change. It should be where there is less reflection on the paint than off the raw plastic. 

[Corsairfoxfouruncle]

3 minutes ago, dnl42 said:

Use a "glancing light", which is light from a source where the rays of the light hit the subject at an acute angle. This accentuates surface textures--including defects--and allows you to see the painting hitting the subject. Your paint should be slightly wet when it hits the surface. If it's dry when it hits the surface, you can get an orange peel or worse. I spray very close in, about 1 cm to 5 cm from the surface.

 

Here's a more complete description of my technique.

 

HTH

-- 

dnl

Better description of what I was attempting to say Thanks. 

[Mark Harmsworth]

Avoid direct sunlight (far too bright) and have more than one light source. I have four lamps illuminating my work area plus a set of ceiling lights. The window has horizontal blinds which allow me to block out any direct sunlight.

Mark

 

[spitfire]

I airbrush by watching the paint hit the model surface, so I stand up facing the window and move the model so that the light hits it.

I build up the paint using light coats until I get a uniform finish. At night I subsitute the room light for the window.

You will find your own preffered way of doing this, something that you are comfortable with.

 

Cheers

 

Dennis