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dimimate

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  1. note: New to modelling I have already messed up the tail base on one of my two models. This is my last one, so I don't wont to destroy that as well. I am building an 1/48 Tamiya F-16C and got my self a tail extension (parabrake) in order to add it on the tail. It appears that the extension is slimmer than the tail base of the kit. I will provide some pictures below in order to illustrate the parts I am working on: From the left to right, there are two parts assembling the tail base. On the right there is a tail extension. This is the tail base when the two parts are assembled T This is where i would like to end up. Tail base plus extension glued together. The tail extension is a Resin part. In my first attempt I just glued together all parts and then started sanding only to realize there is quite a bit of a step. It appeared that the tail base is wider than the extension. I sanded so much with result having a huge sinkhole around the area. Tried to save the situation with epoxy putty but things got even worst. The tail base is heading towards the bin. I took the spare tail base from my second kit and decided to sand each part of the tail base, so I can slim the width a bit and bring it as close as possible (width-wise) with the tail extension. My problem is that i am very bad with sanding, so I am trying to avoid having big steps when gluing tail base with extension, however it is hard to alight because the tail extension does not have any guides (pins, pinholes e.t.c) that could help me align them properly. So my question is: Are there any techniques/tricks that could help you align as much as possible in such situations? I mean i cant even work properly on the parts since i have to use both hands to hold them, how an i supposed to hold them., align them and glue them without moving?
  2. Confirmed by H&S that the differences is just the plating. This is the official response:
  3. Thanks for the replies. I attached the valve on my CR plus works fine (i guess ....) .I noticed tho that after a certain rotation it does not make any difference. Meaning the airpressure is fully released before you manage to rotate fully the valve.
  4. Hi, you mean the valve has extra chrome ?
  5. Hi I have an Evolution CR plus and a friend of mine gave me a nice present of H&S FCP valve 126353 which is for normal Evolution not CR Plus. I checked on the net and found out that for CR Plus line there is another valve 126354. The two valves look identical without any visible difference. My question is if anyone knows what are the actual technical/constructional differences between the 126354 vs 126353 are. I understand one is for CR plus (354) but will the 126353 work on a CR Plus? Will 126353 negate any mechanical advantage of the CR plus (lets say trigger feeling will change if you use 126353) ? Thanks p.s I haven't opened the box yet to try it on CR plus p.s Friend is from abroad hence trying to avoid returning the item (international transfer)
  6. Hi. I am on my fist build hence my knowledge to the hobby is still very limited. I have a problem when it comes to airbrushing my model. I cannot see/determine where and when the paint hits the surface and how wet it ends up. When I start the initial (first pass) of paint I do can tell how mist the color is due to contrast (surface is different color than the one I paint). On the second or third pass of airbrushing, however, I again I cannot tell how wet the surface is or where exactly the paint lands since the surface is now the same color as the one I am airbrushing. The problem becomes worst when I start AB varnish. I cannot tell how much I paint until It's too late (surface flooded). Occasionally I rotate the model under the light and then I can tell where and at what volume the paint hits the surfaces since it's shiny. I have a small table (150 x 150 cm) with a 6500K (60w) lamp in the top left corner which lights center of the table. Is there any rule of thumb when it comes to light, position e.t.c? Is this a common issue faced by modelers or am I doing something completely wrong?
  7. Kalimera Thanos Fantastic build .Congrats I myself have the same Kinetic kit, same AM and same decals. Plus two Tamiyas which i am planning to make all of them HAF anniversary builds. I followed your post very closely and i learned a lot from it and obliviously i will use some (if not all) of your techniques . Greetings Dimitrios
  8. @Seawinder Thanks for the info about the colors. Indeed i was able to figure out the two-tone FS36118/FS36270 but i wasnt aware of the variation on the nose cone. Regarding the decals i literally ordered the ones you mention five minutes ago! What a coincidence.... So far i thought that these decals where only available by Twobobs and Authentic Decals however by pure luck i stumbled on Speed Hunter Graphics and instantly ordered them. Hope there wont be any issues with the postage. I know these are 1/48 but i was thinking maybe i could scan them, scale them down and then find a store to print them. Iv been reading lately about DIY Decals and looks really interesting but with a lot of work and effort. Plus i need to buy a printer. One way or another i will find those decals no matter what #OCD I am also trying to find a valid F-16 Serial number Dan "Two Dogs" used to fly in Iraq 2003 but that info i doubt i would ever obtain. #OCD2
  9. Unfortunately the guy who was planning to send me the decals (TwoBobs 72-033) hasnt contacted me for quite some time . Hope he is well because we had nice communication so at some point i started thinking that something might happened to him 😕 Still no luck finding this decal so @draggie748 is your offer still valid? I was also thinking if one could scan the sheet and i just find someone/some store to print it for me. The other alternative is to start learning how to make custom decals on my own. I have studied a few posts and looks like it requires some effort.
  10. thanks a lot Laurie for the quick reply. Yes the link help much but unfortunately due to eyes-issue i am facing i cannot distinguish very easy colours hence why i am usually searching for colour codes. Nevertheless the link you provided will help a lot. Thanks! 🙂
  11. Thanks a lot for your replies. Indeed the decals are in extinction however i managed to find a person who had a spare sheet. Negotiation now starts.
  12. Hi. After twenty years away from scale modelling (all of my aircrafts were destroyed) i decided to come back to the hobby with an 1/72 Tamiya F-16CJ Block 50 Fully equipment however i need some info which still wasn't able to find on the net. Couple of weeks a go i was reading the book "Viper Pilot: A Memoir of Air Combat" by Dan "Two Dogs" Hampton which i really enjoyed. Few days later i received Tamiya F-16CJ Block 50 Fully equipment as Xmas present. I am so happy because the specific version (CJ - Weasels) is what "Two Dogs" used to flight AND i went mad when i noticed that there are PE Decals of 77th Fighter Squadron "Gamblers" which was his squad when he was operating in Iraq 2003. My excitement didn't last long since i figured out that 77th Fighter Squadron squadron PE Decals where available only for 1/32 scales of this Kit. I spent hours on google and youtube but yet again i wasn't able to figure out the following: 1. True Colours of 77th Fighter Squadron of F-16CJ Block 50 deployed in Iraq 2003. What are the colour codes to buy them? 2. Decals of 77th Gamblers for 1/72 scale. Are there any out there, if not m is there a chance to print them? I would appreciate if someone could point me to any sort of resource for the above. ps.1 I know i could have skip the whole part up until "I spent hours on google" but just felt to share my excitement. ps.2 Twenty years ago didnt knew the terms Priming , Acrylic, airbrushes ... wtf has happened ...
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