Oriskany Posted October 4, 2016 Author Share Posted October 4, 2016 (edited) Thanks guys! @Annti: thanks a lot for your precious and interesting informations about flaperons and finnish Draken. I'm trying to built an austrian one, but your suggestions will be usefull for another Draken and a finnish plane is in my mind ..a tribute for your beautiful country(i was been in holiday in Jyväskylä during 1000 Lakes Rally some years ago;)) Edited October 4, 2016 by Oriskany Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bjorn Posted October 7, 2016 Share Posted October 7, 2016 On 04/10/2016 at 03:35, Antti_K said: For a Finnish Draken you can use Humbrol paints 78, 86 and 88 together with RLM 02 for cockpit interior. Almost every panel was different shade of green. I've seen landing gear components that were painted with a green (RLM 02) and with underside blue-grey. I have never seen white landing gear parts in Finnish Drakens. You are making very nice progress with the kit! Best Regards, Antti Here is a picture of a Finnish 35S Draken with, if not white, so definitely not green landing gear parts. The colour is a very light grey. Nose gear: Also note that Finnish 35S had the Danish-style nosewheel without spokes. I would not recommend RLM 02 for neither the Austrian landing gears, nor the cockpit. The colour is much greener than that. Here is a Austrian Draken: Swedish ones had a darker green colour: (to see the difference, compare the landing gear lights on these two pictures, they had the same colour.) It is correct that the cockpit in Swedish Finnish and Danish Drakens had a variety of green colours. However RLM 02 is not the best match. The walls have the same colours, but the instrument panels have different kinds of green: Swedish: Danish: Finnish: The Austrians cockpits were grey and a little black. Note that there are different shades of grey on the instrument panel compared to the rest of the cockpit. Inside of canopy is black while SE/DK/FI Draken canopy insides had the same grass-green as on the cockpit tub walls. 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oriskany Posted October 7, 2016 Author Share Posted October 7, 2016 Many thanks Bjorn for your informations and very usefull pics! Now i'm working on my IP, i'll post a image soon as possible. I started also to work on the wing control surfaces, i decided to try to cut the original parts to make both flaps dropped 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oriskany Posted October 9, 2016 Author Share Posted October 9, 2016 Hi guys a small update of my project and the first real problem... I glued the tail and the two PE strips inside of engine bay I decided to do the dropped flaps from myself, so i cutted the kit parts from the two fuselage halves and from the wings, the result is far from perfection but no bad I closed the fuselage and glued the tail, but here there is a problem.. The junction between rear fuselage and tail is concave, i hope you can see the defect from the pics, i added red lines to explain better So i'm trying to resolve with adding two thin plasticard stripes and a lot of sanding work... I don't know if this method works, but i think is the best way to have a perfectly straight fuselage and good surface to re-engrave the panel lines 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted October 9, 2016 Share Posted October 9, 2016 The fuselage is not perfectly straight on the real ones in that area. Jens Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bjorn Posted October 10, 2016 Share Posted October 10, 2016 (edited) Of course I should have mentioned this earlier... But hopefully you will build more Hasegawa Drakens. There is a way to get a better fit for the tail. Glue it to the upper part of the fuselage before gluing the upper and lower fuselage parts together. In some strange way (I do not really know why), this gives a much better fit. I have built six of these, and tried this on my most recent Draken build with a great result - the only sanding required was on the small part beside the ailerons - there are traces of sanding on the model, but this is due to the opening of the air brakes). Of course the concave feeling remains - but this is actually correct. On the real thing the fuselage is not perfectly straight. This is best shown on gloss-painted Drakens like this: And instead of waiting with my advices, here is another one: The fit of the gun parts are pretty bad, and requires sanding and filling. The air intakes as - as you surely have seen - not open, but an easy way to achieve a better feeling is simply to cut the "wall", the intakes are so small that few will notice that the air intake channel is too short. Another way to hide this is to use FOD covers - however, remember that Austrian Drakens had soft covers, see below, not the hard covers used by early Swedish/Finnish/Danish Drakens. On this picture, you also can see the black colour inside of the canopy. And finally - which you surely have noticed - do not forget the "ribs" inside the front windshield: Edited October 10, 2016 by Bjorn 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erik_G Posted October 10, 2016 Share Posted October 10, 2016 I guess the strange shape of the tail cone is due to the fact that the Draken was first designed with a shorter after burner. it was later upgraded with a longer one, therefore requiring a "bolt on" tail cone. The twin seat version, the Sk 35, retained the short tail through out its service. I included a few photos for comparison. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oriskany Posted October 10, 2016 Author Share Posted October 10, 2016 Thanks again Bjorn, Jens and Erik for your suggestions and precious pics! i knew i couldn't explain well the problem. Like you said, the real Draken has different shape between the end of fuselage and tail cone. This is correct in the kit, but when i glued the tail (sadly before Bjorn's suggestion), its diameter was bigger than fuselage diameter, so i had a concave shape in both direction from the junction line In any case, i'm working on this point and i'll show you soon the result. @Bjorn: i glued the cannon fairings and, as you said, there are some fitting problems; i'm working here also:) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted October 10, 2016 Share Posted October 10, 2016 I usually widen the gun cover parts from the inside with a rounded tool. The helps a lot on the fit. The intake parts are another bad fit area, but here it helps to remove the location tabs on the inside. Jens 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oriskany Posted October 21, 2016 Author Share Posted October 21, 2016 Hello guys after some time i can show you some small progress on my Draken. I finished the tail with new panel lines and i checked the fitting of the two fuselage interior structure PE parts I completed also adding of the cannon fairings and air intakes (thanks Jens for suggestion ), i needed some filling work here Next steps will be work on dropped flaps and some details on undercarriage bays 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarcococca Posted January 2, 2017 Share Posted January 2, 2017 An absolutely interresting and skillfull WIP. Your hints and tips are very helpful. Thx for sharing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sammy da fish Posted January 2, 2017 Share Posted January 2, 2017 I shall be watching this very interesting subject as I have now made three Draken's and have the same problems as your self. To see if the ideas help. Sammy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rui Silva Posted January 2, 2017 Share Posted January 2, 2017 Hi Oriskany et al, I'm following your topic with much interest, my wife gave me the same kit as a Christmas present and I'm learning some clever tricks that surely will help me. Best regards, Rui Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
exdraken Posted January 2, 2017 Share Posted January 2, 2017 Hope we getban updste soon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oriskany Posted January 3, 2017 Author Share Posted January 3, 2017 (edited) Thanks guys The work goes slowly because I have some problems with the flaps, I can not fix them in place, I sanded too much the edge .... and Aires dropped flaps are undersized, so I have to work here. But I hope to resolve problems and go forward with the build Edited January 3, 2017 by Oriskany Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bjorn Posted January 4, 2017 Share Posted January 4, 2017 Flaps are also available from Rebell Hobby, www.rebell.com http://www.rebell.com/dropped-flaps-for-saab-35-draken.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oriskany Posted January 5, 2017 Author Share Posted January 5, 2017 Thanks Bjorn, friend of mine give me a new set of Hasegawa wings, i'll try to make it better this time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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