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Rui Silva

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About Rui Silva

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    Porto, Portugal

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  1. According with the "Walkarounds/Portuguese Military Aviation" website (http://walkarounds-blog.blogspot.com/2015/02/fiat-g91.html), Ginas only served in Angola for a very short time, from late 1974 until January 1975, replacing the weary F-84Gs of Esquadra (Squadron) 93 at Luanda. BR, Rui
  2. After three months in the "shelf of doom", the Vulcan is back to the workbench. I did some minor rescribing of the elevons, I used for the first time the Scribe-R, it works fine but I'm not so good at scribing,I also closed all the landing gear doors and glued the engine fairings, the model is now ready for priming, stay tuned and stay safe!
  3. I'm looking forward to model a Portuguese Army AF MS.233's, this is one of the 16 built under licence in Portugal.
  4. I'm impressed by the detail of this kit and I'm tempted to pre-order one. I'm about 2/3 of finishing reading the excellent "Famous Russian Aircraft: Sukhoi Su-27 & Su-30/33/34/35" and I've noticed the kit's instructions regarding the options for the infra-red guided R-27T and R-27ET AAMs are wrong according to this book: R-27T/ETs can only be carried on pylons 3 & 4, this is valid for all "Flanker" variants.
  5. Starting to look like a Vulcan, Happy New Year to all!
  6. Hi Adam, Thanks for your advice, I've checked the kit's fuselage roundels and indeed they are of the smaller size, fortunately I've CtA sheet no.2 (V-Bombers in Anti-flash white) and it has the correct 54" roundels, mind you, the diameter difference in 1/144 is all of 1,06mm! Regarding the ECM plates it seems you're again correct, only one and on the right (starboard) side, colour seems to be the underside colour with heavy soothing. On all the photos I saw the fin cap fairing is painted black, the photo below is just to remind us how beautiful the Vulcan was in flight!
  7. Hi Adam, As you can see from the instructions, XL321 is show with roundels on both wings on the top side and none on the bottom side, XM571 in camouflage is show with the roundel only on the left side, as you consider correct. Both airplanes have two ECM plates, is this correct?
  8. First inspection of the main parts after gluing: bottom elevons and elevon actator fairings are a bit oversize and need filing, the foto does not show it so well, right side already is filed, one must be careful to avoid damaging the surface detail. And the nose section will need filler and some sanding too!
  9. Another small update: the intakes need quite a bit of Mr. Surfacer 500 as there's a "ridge" between wing "intake lips" and intake parts and this must be dealt with. Top and bottom wing parts glued, it all clicks together nicely now wait, sand and fill!
  10. Just a small update: tiny pilots painted, I guess none of it will be visible but it's there!
  11. Hi Michael, My friend and workmate Sérgio Cabral sells the 3D print files for a very small fee, he recreated quite a few aviation classics following his own aesthetics (not exactly "eggplanes") of which we argued for hours, I'm a sailplane fanatic loving long wings of high aspect ratio and him designing these almost wingless flying creatures. Anyway, 3D printed in resin the detail is incredible and they look cute! https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/toy-plane-avro-vulcan-b-2
  12. Congrats Dmitry for your model! I'm tempted to buy the same model but I cant' find any reviews of it, how do you rate the kit? Any particular problems? Best regards, Rui
  13. Let's start... and problem number one: the intakes are molded in one piece, great to avoid filling seams but why did they mold the Bristol Olympus compressor faces with the intakes? How am I going to paint these parts? I thought the least risky solution would be to drill the compressor faces from the back and replace with a "2D" photo of the engine front; not so easy to find a decent photo of the Olympus "straight in the face" but after one hour with Corel Draw I managed to have a nice 5mm wide representation. Unfortunately drilling the plastic parts scarred a bit the intakes when using the final 5mm drill bit, now I need to putty, sand and paint the intakes gloss white but I think the result will be better than 4 white Olympus or blobs of silver paint messing the white intakes all over!
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