Cut your own plastic sheet, masks and decal paper - cutting machine

[bootneck]

I've always wanted to build a fairly large diorama, in something like 1:350 scale, and the Mulberry Harbour at Arromanches in the weeks after D-Day was a favourite choice for me. I have all the spud pontoons etc. from L'Arsenal, but didn't have any bridge or gantry sections and these are paramount if building the harbour. There is also a problem in that you need lots of them.

I've tried scratchbuilding these parts myself but I could never get two spars or sections to be exactly alike in either length or thickness. I then came across a thread on a railway modelling site, about cutting your own pieces from plastic sheet with a cutting machine.

After reading that thread a few times I went and bought a cutting machine and after a few days of learning how it works and dabbling with the software, I scanned a diagram of the bridge section into my PC and after tidying up it looked like this:

In 1:350 scale this bridge span is only 2.75 in (7cm) long.

I drew vectored lines along those of the scanned image, in order for the cutter to recognise where to cut. Once I had completed the images, I duplicated it 27 more times until I had filled the size of an A4 sheet of 0.25mm plastic card. When the layout was ready I hit the 'cut' key.

There's not really much to see here but this is the sheet after it has been cut. You should just be able to see all the cut lines on the sheet.

The cutting mat has a sticky top side to it which is necessary to hold the sheet in exactly the same place whilst making multiple cuts.

The next task is to lift the waste part of the sheet away from the cut sections.

Here we have the 28 bridge spans, plus some end-plates, all cut out to cleanly and exactly to the same dimensions. This would have been a right mess if I had tried cutting all these with a modelling knife! The parts tend to bend (as with any cut plastic) but can be easily flattened.

And now for some 'Assembally' (for those who watched New Yankee Workshop!) Look, my own construction kit!

The built model. Unfortunately my camera doesn't like white plastic......

So I've given it a spray of primer and stuck a couple of 1:350 ambulances onto it. Just like the Normandy photo!

So there you go, who needs expensive PE or aftermarket (which is usually produced to fit a specific model only) when you can

cut your own? Another major benefit, especially here with all these bridge sections, is that once you have made your template

you can produce more and more as you want them, all to the exact same shape.

Another benefit is that although this has been produced to 1:350 scale the drawing can be up-scaled to what ever size needed, such as 1:76 or 1:35 etc., and is only limited to the cutter aperture which in this case is 15 inches.

The cutter also cuts masks and decals, in fact it is probably only limited to your imagination! Check through the link again to see what they say about the different types of cutters that are out there. There are quite a few different types and prices but most are able to cut masks, decals and thin plastic sheet.

I've only been playing with the cutter for a week (this build was a bit of a rush test and only took about 2 hours so imagine the standard if I spent some time and effort to make a quality build.) so don't know yet how thick a piece of plastic sheet it can cut. This bridge was made from 0.25mm sheet, which is about right for bridge spans in 1:350 scale and the cutter took two passes to cut through (you can set the cutter to make multiple passes if the material is tough).

Hope you enjoyed this and perhaps it has given you the inspiration to look at building models, or parts, from a different viewpoint.

cheers

Mike

[heloman1]

Great work Mike, went across to the 'cutting machine' via your link, the mind could run riot. Thanks for your post.

Colin

[bootneck]

I forgot to mention that it is also good for cutting out stencils; imagine being able to cut out perfect white decals; such as landing spot/circles and deck letters/numbers for carriers and assault ships etc., (using white decal paper of course).

Further to my post about cutting plastic, here is a close in view of the intricate shapes that can be cut within the main shape. All were cut at the same time and every piece is exactly the same (unlike my hand-cut attempts in the past!).

Mike

[Giorgio N]

I've seen some great things made with these machines and actually I've planned to buy one for a long time... your great work is another good reason to go aout and get one ASAP !

The fact that the smallest product of the line is now on sale at the local dealer means a purchase is more than likely now...

One advice I've been given is to buy a spare blade and use one for the plastic and one for the paper/vinyl etc.. the one used for the plastic will probably wear faster but in this way the paper wil always be cut nicely by the "freshest" blade

[bootneck]

I would agree about the blades, however I didn't get a spare blade of the same type. I have a standard blade, for paper (decals and masks etc.) and a heavy duty blade for the plastic.

As I mentioned earlier, I have only been experimenting with this cutter for about a week and wasn't sure that it would cut tiny parts and holes in plastic. Now that I am more confident about the results I shall treat myself to spare blades of each type.

Also, if you trawl the websites, there is a lot of info to be found on the subject; including mention that the blades are fairly simple to re-sharpen with a bit of care.

Mike

[Giorgio N]

Thanks for the additional info Mike, the availability of a heavy duty blade is defintely a plus IMHO. The bits you posted in post #3 are really impressive, small yet everything is well defined. The possibilities are indeed endless...

[bootneck]

They're not bad for a first attempt but I definitely would have ripped a few of these uprights and angled spars if I had cut them by hand; plus there's 28 bridge sides done in one pass!

[Sgt.Squarehead]

What a great tool.....Cuttimg perfectly matched parts is the bane of my life when scratching stuff (never managed it yet), so something like this would be a godsend, but it's way out of my price league ATM. Fancy some comissions?

[MunchMunch]

I used my wife's Scan-n-cut to cut some 1/350 hand rails for a ship http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234974084-bronco-1350-uss-new-york/

I cut them out of some 0.025 plastic sheet. Still need to work out the best way but it did a good job. Actual to scale rails are probably a little thin for the cutter to do but these are inside a well deck and will harder to see.

I think it opened up a whole new area for me to try now.

[CarLos]

Great work, Mike! What settings are you using for 0.25mm plastic?

I haven't used much my Cameo lately, so I still do by trial and error.

Carlos

[bootneck]

I used my wife's Scan-n-cut to cut some 1/350 hand rails for a ship http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234974084-bronco-1350-uss-new-york/

I cut them out of some 0.025 plastic sheet. Still need to work out the best way but it did a good job. Actual to scale rails are probably a little thin for the cutter to do but these are inside a well deck and will harder to see.

I think it opened up a whole new area for me to try now.

Nice work!

It can give you a whole new outlook on modelling, whether it is enhancing existing kits or scratchbuilding your own.

As an example: new tail sections can be cut out, for WM's Buccaneer in 1:144 scale

cut a new fuselage for a Gannet COD to replace WM's Gannet AEW body - just needs the layers laminating together

or even make some trucks, these will be Nubian fire tenders in 1:144 scale

With a set of plans you can even cut out parts for a model ship

or two...

or however many you want! Once the plan has been drawn and saved you can produce as many as you want on the cutter.

Mike

[MunchMunch]

yes, the light went on when I saw your first post.