How to build a Display Case

[Madmonk]

After building a Mclaren MP4/4 and including a display case there were a few requests for a "How to" for the case so here goes. Unfortunately I managed to delete most of the photos I took whilst building the case but hopefully the words will explain it enough.

Glass Display Case “How To”

I have been building my own display cases for a number of years now and have sometimes done them for commercial gain!

They are not difficult to make as long as you can get access to the materials and the right tools, neither of which should prove a real problem.

Materials

2mm Thick Clear Picture Glass

Epoxy Glue – One that cures in minutes

9mm Flat Profile Window Leading

Picture Frame Moulding or Picture Frame

Vinyl Tile

Wood Glue

Tools

Mitre Saw

Masking Tape

Process

The essential thing is to find a good glass merchant as the sizes needed are usually considered as off cuts and are fairly cheap, the other more expensive way is to go to a picture framer.

The one thing to remember is to order CLEAR glass and not non-reflective, whilst the idea of a non-reflective glass case is appealing non-reflective glass is NOT clear! I speak from experience.

The case I have just built is 10” long x 8” wide x 4” high to take the Mclaren with the bodywork off and the engineer figure. For a 1/20 F1 car with the body on a case 10” x 6” x 3” is sufficient. I have built cases 12” x 12” x 12” for signed footballs using this method and the largest was 24” x 18” x12”.

Using the Mclaren case as the base for this “How To” I ordered 5 pieces of glass at a cost of £5:

2 – 10” x 4”

2 – 8” x 4”

1 – 10” x 8”

Using the epoxy glue, glue the side pieces together, I find it best to mix a small amount of glue and glue the pieces two at a time and let the glue cure whilst the glass is resting against something with a 90 Deg angle. If you glue a 2mm edge to the face of the other piece and follow that round all 4 corners I find that the top sits on better. Don’t worry about any stray glue as it can be removed with a scalpel blade once cured. Use some masking tape to hold the glass in place until the glue has cured.

Once the glue has cured, glue the whole thing together ensuring that the sides stay square. Again use tape to hold the joint whilst the glue cures. Once cured the top can be glued on, this takes a bit of messing about to make sure that it overlaps the edges slightly and doesn’t fall down the inside of the sides. Once cured any stray bits of glue can be removed and you are left with a glass case cover. It is best to leave this for a short while now and concentrate on the base.

For the base you can use one of two things, either picture frame moulding or a suitably sized picture frame. For larger cases I would use moulding and get it from a picture frame shop, cost would be between £1.50 - £3 per foot depending on type. For this case I bought a 14” X 12” frame from The Range for £4.59. There is an important rule to remember when choosing your moulding as it is turned through 90 Deg to be used on the case so the side of the moulding needs to be flat as that is the bottom of the base.

Dismantle the frame but don’t through the back away. Turn the moulding through 90 Deg so that what was the side of the frame is now the bottom. Using the mitre saw cut the four sides of the base ensuring that the cover will sit inside, I usually allow a couple of mm extra on the length of the cover side. The opposite sides of the base also need to be the same length otherwise the joints don’t sit true. Glue the sides together, if you have a frame clamp great, if not use some string.

Once set touch up any damage with stain/paint and using the back of the frame or some other thin wood sheet make the base. To finish the base off I used a black vinyl tile from B&Q, you could use sticky back felt or whatever you want the base to be.

The window lead is then used to frame the edges of the case, cut strips for the 4 sides and apply each to form a "L" shape between the two sides, repeat for the edges between sides and top. With a plastic tool flatten the corners. Alternatively you could tidy the corners up with solder.

Wash the glass cover and finish off with Windowlene then pop in your model and put the cover on.

And there you have it, one glass display case, total cost £12 plus a couple of hours work.

Edited December 18, 2011 by Madmonk

[keefr22]

Great stuff, thanks for the 'how-to'.....!!

Is this the window leading that use?;

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/9mm-Window-lead-...=item415f7992b8

Thanks

Keef

[stringbag]

Great stuff, thanks for the 'how-to'.....!!

Is this the window leading that use?;

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/9mm-Window-lead-...=item415f7992b8

Thanks

Keef

That's the stuff Keefr.

Not a bad price either, and you get a "boner" thrown in for nothing.

Bargain!!!!!

Chris.

Edited December 18, 2011 by stringbag

[keefr22]

Not a bad price either, and you get a "boner" thrown in for nothing.

Bargain!!!!!

Cheap at half the price then....nothing like a free 'boner' !!!

[Madmonk]

That's the stuff, just make sure it's flat, they also do it in arched profile but it's a bugger to bend through 90 deg!

The "boner" is the best thing to form the lead with.

[Dave Swindell]

Great explanation! I've done very similar, but used clear acrylic sheet from B&Q instead of glass, and also used L shaped wood beading suitably stained instead of the lead strip.

Glass is less likely to scratch, but more likely to shatter if abused, both should last if looked after -you pays your money, takes your choice!

[lampie]

Great "How To"!

I think I have just found a use for my glass offcuts.( Very handy having a little picture framing business).

Guess what I'll be having a go at when my window leading arrives from Ebay

Anybody in the Derby area want glass and frame moulding cutting to size drop me a PM.

Special Britmodeller rates of course

Nige

http://p47.kitmaker.net/

56thfightergroup.co.uk/