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Found 17 results

  1. Hi, to everybody. I’m italian and a big vw fan (i have a couple of mk3) I started 2 years ago the collection of this 1/8 golf GTI (100 issues) only for italian market and the collection is now terminated......my model not (some stop due to work on a couple of 1/8 Delta WRC) I’ve started a tuned/stanced project but i decided to remade it with extra details to add more realism to my model. I work on this model when I'll made some work pause on Mclarem Here the status (i've stated to rework in July)
  2. so here are some of the sprue from the Heller Ty 125 kit. The are very nicely moulded. In stead of vinyl tube you get a vinyl sprue(black) for the cables that have to be held in place between the parts they connect to rather than pushed on. The bottom pic(figure 10) shows how you make the 2 rear shocks using the piece of wire and the jig, nice but I will see how they turn out before probably dipping into my toolroom box of springs. Looks like a very good kit so let's get started with the piston head fins which are a separate parts a nice touch remove the horrible chrome from the wheels and other parts and set up my nice little compressor and airbrush
  3. I was excited to build a brand new 1/8 scale kit from a new company after building so many Pocher kits over the years. Here are my quick building impressions of the new LeGrand 1/8 Collection VW Beetle kit (a complete kit version of the DeAgostini/ModelSpace partworks kit) a decorative metal sign is included body parts are prepainted with all necessary scripts and trim, wheels are metal, tires are softer than Pocher plastic parts are prepainted, bagged and boxed in groups (no sprues to cut!) the screws are nicely prepackaged in three compartmentalized boxes (you will have many spares remaining for other projects) Introduction Part quality and fit is good, all metal and most plastic parts have a nice pre-painted finish. There are no decals to worry about, all necessary markings are pre-printed. A small Phillips screwdriver is supplied with the kit, but more specialized tools can make the job easier. I have been using Wiha Precision Phillips screwdrivers sizes #00 x 40 mm, #0 x 50 mm, and #1 x 60 for a range of screw sizes and torque required. Pay attention to the numbering of parts in the assembly steps, which usually is the order in which they should be assembled. Many parts have D-shaped mounting holes or assymetrical mounting points that help ensure they are oriented correctly. Parts with Left and Right pairs are often stamped L and R to help with placement. It may also be helpful to consult the step by step assembly instructions for the subscription version https://www.model-space.com/landing-pages/beetle-uk/download.html. They are designed more for a novice modeler but include many more diagrams and photos, although the assembly order is different compared to our kit. For my build here I am ignoring those instructions and evaluating only the included paper manual. Group 1 Steps 1-4: The first assembly steps took longer than expected, as identifying some parts was harder without numbered sprues. Examine the master illustration of all parts in a "group" and their numbers at the start of each section, as the diagrams for the chassis and rear suspension assembly steps are a vertical view that is not always clear. Further ahead in the assembly manual the illustrations have a 3-D perspective that makes things easier. The wheels are metal! I was able to mount the tires after just warming them in my hands, but warming them with hot water or a hair dryer as the manual suggests will make it easier. Step 6: Parts 1.49L & 1.51R: be sure to orient them correctly according to the diagram; round hole faces front, towards steering rack, and oval hole faces rear. Parts 1.52 are small metal pins with a burred end; insert the smooth end first, then press with pliers or a small vise until the burred end which secures them sits flush in the hole. Step 7: Screw lower spring cups parts 1.56 & 1.61 to front suspension, then screw part 1.66 loosely to the chassis leaving as much wiggle room as possible. Then assemble the shock absorbers & springs which must be held together at the ends, compressed and fitted into place, before tightening part 1.66 to the chassis. Group 2 Steps 10-12: Assembly of the seats and interior floor is clear and straightforward. Step 13: Press the rear mounts for the seats in the correct holes and hold firmly before flipping the floorpan over to snap the forward tabs in their slots; it make take a few tries, and you may have to squeeze the forward seat mounts to get the tabs to line up with the slots while viewing from below. Step 14: Part 2.52 has a larger and smaller hole that will orient it correctly on the mounting pegs. The diagram does not show that grey flocked part 2.54 must be pressed into the rear seat back 2.53. Group 3 (engine!) Most parts are nicely pre-painted, although some black plastic parts will look better if painted. Remember all part numbers ending in "M" are metal and are located in the foam block that contains the body panels. Step 16: Be sure part 3.7M is oriented correctly and matches the contour of the engine block. Step 17: After starting the screws I had to press the engine block halves 3.8M and 3.11M together slightly with a vice to eliminate a small gap. However, the gap between the transmision and engine block is intentional, as a plastic part will slide between them in step 19. The mounting tabs and slots for parts 3.9, 3.10, 3.12, 3.13 are assymetrical and will orient them correctly so the flats on the cylinders will face each other. Step 20: parts 3.20L and 3.21R and stamped R and L, but are shown on the wrong sides in the instructions and will not fit if assembled as shown. Step 21: I had to add part 3.22 after mounting parts 3.20 & 3.21 to the engine because of limited clearance. Be sure the flanges on parts 3.21 & 3.22 are pressed completely into the matching recess in the black part between them and the engine. Fit the pushrod guides parts 3.24 into parts 3.23R & 3.25L before inserting the group into the engine block. Squish the ends slightly so they will stay aligned and in place if necessary. Part 3.29 is begging us to replace it with real wire. Step 24: Spark plug wires; refer back to page 16 to match correct lengths to parts #'s. Group 4 Body assembly was quick and clear in general. Step 35: Slide the thin metal ring onto the ridge at the bottom of part 4.3 before fastening to the interior door panel, and be sure the seatbelt buckle faces away from the door. Step 43: I had to unscrew and bend the arm of the fuel filler door several times to get a correct fit in the opening when closed. Group 5 (dash and moving body panels) Step 57: Part 5.43 was a loose fit so I squished the mounting pins slightly to get it to stay securely. I rotated the mounting arms of the rear bumper slightly to get a correct fit in the body. Step 58: Inserting metal pins into the door hinges right against the painted body made me nervous. I also had to bend both lower hinges slightly to get clearance for the hinge pins. Nylon jawed pliers were a life saver here to squeeze the hinge pins into the hinges. After mounting the doors they may not fit right, but the door opening will spread when the body is mounted to the chassis. Step 59: The dash was a tight fit because of interference at the sides from body assembly screws. Next time I may drill holes to allow more clearance. Step 64: The placement and ID of parts 5.68 & 5.69 is difficult, better to wait until after the body is mounted to the chassis. Step 67: When assembling the body to the chassis you may need to do some flexing and wiggling to get everything to line up at the correct mounting points. Start at the front with the car upside down and be sure the tops of the front suspension towers fit into the recesses in the wheel well. Then spread the body at the sills if needed as you work your way to the back. After mounting the body to the chassis I gently but firmly spread the upper body opening front to back by bracing against the windshield header and the rear of the car to create more space for the doors to close properly. You will see there is some natural flex in the bottom of the chassis when the doors are open. Step 69: I wrapped a thin strip of tape around the neck of the windshield washer reservoir 5.72 to achieve a secure fit in the mounting collar. Step 70: Windshield trim 5.78; notice the mounting pins angle downwards, and all four must be pressed in and down at the same time. The ends of the rear shelf 6.3 must be snapped firmly under tabs inside the body to get a correct fit. Windshield washer nozzle 6.33 is a very small part but shown deceptively large in the illustration. Group 6 (final assembly/convertible top) Steps 72-74: Be sure to refer to the photos on page 60 in addition to the parts diagram on page 57 to help clarify the assembly of the folding top mechanism. Step 76: It is a little fussy to get the reinforced holes in both layers of the cloth top to align with the "sandwich" of rear window plus interior and exterior trim pieces. Make sure each layer (outer cloth, rear window, inner cloth, inner trim piece) is fully seated onto the pins of exterior trim piece 6.26 before tightening each screw. Be careful your screwdriver does not slip and scratch the window! After the rear window is attached undo the velcro and reattach so the metal top mechanism is between the layers of the cloth top. Step 78: Be sure each piece 6.31 clicks fully into each hole in piece 6.29. Refer to the photo on the previous page 62 of the manual for clarification. Step 79: When attaching the rear of the top to the body, insert the black pegs on parts 6.17 from step 74 first. You will have to angle the top of these parts inward to insert the pegs. Step 80: Face the front of the model and brace it against your body while pulling the front edge of the convertible top to the windshield header, then press the pegs firmly into the holes to secure the top. The cloth top is bulkier than the real version, something that is more difficult to scale down than hard parts, so it is hard to fold without looking awkwardly high. My solution is to unmate the velcro holding the inner and outer layers together, fold and stack the top layer carefully, then fold or roll the inner layer into the middle before covering with the fabric boot. There was some interference when I first retracted the top so I had to pinpoint the problem joints and flex the metal bows gently to get them to stack symetrically. The elasticized fabric boot looked awkward until I researched photos of the car and saw that the real one often looked worse. Summary: I enjoyed this build and the quality of the parts. Total build time was quicker than expected because the car itself is simple (like comparing the Pocher Classic Fiat to the Alfa). Minor criticisms: Getting the doors to fit well was a little fussy, partly because the nicely scaled metal hinges are a little too flexible. I'll accept the trade off because the accurate hinges look so good. I wish there was a better latching system than just a friction fit against the body opening. The tires look a little wide to me but also look great on the car. I wish the bumpers were metal. I will suggest improvements to the manual for the next LEGRAND 1/8 kit, additional steps and clearer illustrations. Color photos as shown with the subscription instructions linked above would be best. Final Thoughts: The finished model looks great, and will look even better when I get a chance to polish and wax it as I do for every build. The convertible top looks good up or down, an improvement over the prototype photos. The metal mechanism works well and makes so much more sense than the plastic pieces Pocher provided in the Classic car kits.
  4. Hello again. A new project has begun. Or rather, 2 almost identical models. Both models are of the Scania Lt 141 type from 1979. They were ordered on the same day by the two owners and I took the challenge of building them simultaneously. I started preparing the drawings in November 2018 and here are the pictures of the results for now. They are built in scale 1/8 and are basically 100% scratch built. I made sure to make molds for as many of the parts as possible. It simplifies the work on the other model - and maybe on future projects as well.
  5. Hi all, this is the final reveal of the 1972 Kawasaki 750 H2. This was the most powerful and unpredictable bike to own in that era and carved out a reputation for itself as a bit of a Hooligan. To emphasize the character of the bike I decided to ditch the centre stand, as any hard rider would find it a limitation in the ground clearance. Also I have scraped the chrome on the underside of the exhausts, which was a common occurrence when leaning this bike over into bends. As a final detail I wanted to show the oil tank gauge indicator which was basically a clear tube that exited and entered the oil tank and was visible through the slot at the rear of the right hand side panel to make the clear tube look in scale. I used a piece of fibre optic strand and looped it round and fixed it into the side panel and then with a little dab of red paint, gave the impression of oil in the tube. A small detail but accurate nonetheless. In the hands of an experienced rider, the Mach 750 H2 was the fastest production bike in the world, but with someone less skilled on board, it was an accident waiting to happen. It earned its nickname 'the widow maker' all too often. You can also see the work in progress of my build here. Finally the last picture is for all the doubters who think this is a real bike. I thought the plastic spoon would give a sense of scale to the non believers LOL!
  6. Hi all, here is the start of another 70's classic superbike build. The Kawasaki Z900A4 or KZ900 in the US. This is going to be a kitbash of sorts as this kit is not available. I bought two kits which I will take parts from to build the Z900A4. Don't fret! I have a plan for a workshop diorama in the future, for the leftover parts. As you can see I have made a start on the bodywork, the paint colour is diamond dark green. I used the Z1000 decals for the side panels and cut them and painted in the number 9. There was some subtle differences between the Z1000 and the Z750 which eventually became the Z1. The fuel tank and the bodywork is correct on the Z1000 for my Z900 conversion, as is the fuel cap, carbs, airbox, rear light, front forks, headlamp, seat, mudguard and clocks. The 750 kit will require the exhaust system and a few other parts, which includes the triangular rear subframe for the exhaust mountings, these will have to be cut from the 750 kit and grafted onto the Heller frame. I am using mostly the Heller chassis parts, so that I know that the bodywork will all fit correctly. Finally I have some pics of a real bike which I recently restored. Wish me luck and will update you again sometime next week.
  7. Hi guys, this is the final reveal of the 1/8 Heller BMW R750/5, which my friend asked me to build for his elder brother and some pics of the real bike. His brother who is now 57 bought the bike when he was 19 and toured Europe on his Honeymoon!
  8. Lamborghini Aventador Roadster LP700-4 Pocher 1/8 kit, with detailing and LEDs Follow up post of my build thread, where I talked a lot about everything. Here I'll let the images speak:
  9. Hi guys, well here we are again with another classic 70's motorbike build. This time I was given this kit by the brother of the owner of the actual bike in the pictures. I have carried out restoration work on the motorcycle and as the bike is almost finished, I have been asked to build a replica of the bike, so I will be painting the model black and adding the white pinstripes as their is no decals in the kit, wish me luck with that! The kit is nicely molded but is really not designed to be painted as it asks you to add soft vinyl parts during the assembly, making painting an added chore due to having to mask up more parts which would have been fitted later. The instructions are hard to follow and vague to say the least, but I will muddle through the best I can. It will only be a loose replica, as I won't be scratch building the crash bars and the kit has chrome wheel rims and exhausts where the real bike has alloy rims and stainless exhausts fitted by the owner. I may strip the chrome off the exhausts and add heat tarnish to the header pipes, also the fit of the rear engine cover where the carbs attach looks a poor fit, but the gaps are correct as the real bikes air filter housing was also a poor fit. Finally the carbs are a fiddle to fit correctly on the real bike, so I made sure they fitted correct on the model and true to the real bike, they were a pig to get looking right, too many angles to glue at the same time. Wish me luck with this build, I'm going to need it!
  10. Hello everyone, I came across this forum while doing some research (Google image search), and found the work of roymattblack. I originally had bought my Aventador as a decoration for my living room, so the goal was to complete it asap. I was already halfway through and about to connect the engine part to the passenger cabin when I saw what Roy did to his kit. Wow! I loved the tiny little details he added and was so inspired that I started taking my almost completed rear part apart again. I did more research and found more and more things looking wrong on my model. I did build a couple of Revell planes some 15 years ago but didn’t plan to dive too deep into the diecast thing again. Fiddling around with those super tiny water decals for the cockpit buttons and windshield wiper arm was already way more than what I had planned. I went and bought some colors, but the first results were not very satisfying. Turned out I had bought the wrong silver color, mine looked almost white and not shiny (Revell 06 AFAIR). I went back and bought more colors and more stuff, my normally super clean homeoffice turned more and more into a messy place, and the sheer number of small tasks waiting to be completed seemed overwhelming, but I loved it. I took the engine further apart and added more detail, mostly inspired by Roy and the great work this guy had done. My vision is just a little impaired, so I had recently bought a lens lamp which is an enormous help. I’d say this kit cannot be properly build without one. I will keep posting progress as it unfolds. First part that I build with more love to detail was the front axle: custom battery cable (+) and paint job, active suspension (still looking for a way to get black Öhling decals) My workplace(s): redone engine: By the way: I did manage to press the exhaust manifolds, probably the most illfitting part in this kit so far, into place without altering the attachments by the use of sheer force and super glue. It still holds I'd like to add that I mainly focus on the visible parts since most of the engine will forever be hidden under covers. I did add some extra piping but no fuel lines or oil filters. What amazes me is the fantasy you can bring into such a project. The brackets on the airintakes are made of gift wrapping band Fitting test: Visibility tests: Fitting & visibility test: Progress:
  11. Hello all, On request from Poul and Rich, I’m posting a WIP on my Pocher F12 engine duobuild. The build has been stalled for about 6 months mainly due to other builds getting my full attention. But I need to continue work on these as the parts take up a lot of real estate space in my work area, as you will soon notice. A colleague had acquired this kit but he isn’t a modeler so he asked me to build it for him. As I had the same kit in my stash as well, I started both kits simultaneously, as I would otherwise probably not build my own kit anytime soon. I also thought that it wouldn’t take that much more work to build two identical kits (or so I believed…I’d soon find out how wrong I was). Here are some pics of the kit and the parts. Some of these parts are really massive….
  12. I was looking into this kit while evaluating what might be next and found very lttle information about it here in the forum. So I thought why not start an official discussion about this upcoming kit, possible release dates, first reviews and misc. stuff. Contributions welcome. Found this image on twitter of the actual kit car as shown @ Nurnberg toy fair early 2016. All other images lurking around are CAD renders. I saw a discussion somewhere based on these Images. I for my part highly doubt the cockpit will be as detailed as in the renders. I found old renders of the Aventador and the kit looks not at all as detailed. What I read is that the release date should be at the beginning of June 2016, which would be now. But as far as I know it wasn't released yet? Also didn't find any reviews, and the reviewers usually get the early preview models (or not?). I guess I will wait for a possible Spyder kit, preferrably in blue. Nonetheless I'm interested in what is about to come.
  13. I bought this a couple of years ago and have wanted an excuse to dig it out of the stash for a while. I'm going to be building it as an operational combat variant in camouflage with lighting. There's some nice detail on the base. The main torso parts came in a poly bag already off the sprue, I popped them together to give a better idea of the size.
  14. I really hope DeAg release this in the UK at some point: http://deagostini.jp/site/lcl/pretop/index.html Mike D.
  15. Hi folks, I'm not sure why I put off finishing this for a month, it didn't actually take all that long to do the final assembly, wiring and scenics. But it's done now! (click for bigger/more pictures on Flickr) The kit is from Industria Mechanika, and is a resin cast of a 3D-printed master of a model by a guy called Mike Jensen. My original plan was to do something a bit shinier and cleaner, but I found that the surface was basically too complex to polish, and opted for a weathered finish instead The inspiration was District 9, and more specifically Neill Blomkamp's earlier short Tetra Vaal, so I modelled the surroundings after Soweto. I remodelled the sniper rifle from the kit-supplied anti-materiel weapon to something a little bit more futuristic and police-like, and hollowed out the head and neck to light the eyes. The paint is decanted Tamiya and Alclad lacquer, and various acrylics over the top of that. Markings are a mixture of sprayed and various Gundam kit decals. On the scenic front, the concrete is florists' foam (never again!) the catfood tins were made from thick foil with laser-printed labels, and the bees are H0 scale from Busch - only 10x larger than they should be for 1:87! More details of the build here: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234939124-drone-sniper-resin-figure/ Thanks massively to the people who commented on the build thread, I got some key suggestions from there which really helped shape this project! and a few close-ups: Incidentally, I spent a lot of time looking at photographs of the poorer areas of Soweto, particularly Kliptown, to get the colours and plants looking right, and felt kind of crap afterwards, like I was taking advantage of other people. I opted to donate some money to Kliptown Youth Program, it's not much, but hopefully better than doing nothing. If you want to help out, see here: http://www.kliptownyouthprogram.org.za/ Cheers and thanks for looking! Will
  16. Hi folks, I figured I should stop ogling the Industria Mechanika kits and actually build some of them I've been cleaning up the Fichtenfish but I wanted to have a go at the sniper when it appeared since it's big and cool and an antidote to this fiddly 1/144 scale hovercraft I've been building. I'm a total resin novice, I've used a couple of resin aftermarket parts but that's it, so please point and laugh or suggest things to save me from my own stupidity according to taste I started by soaking the bits in warm soapy water, scrubbed them with an old toothbrush and rinsed them off. They smelled a bit like lacquer thinner in the box, now they don't, so hopefully I got the mould release off? First impressions are pretty good - with the pour plugs removed you can dry fit the legs, lower and upper body and he'll stand up on his own two feet without the base. Which means the pose really is as natural as it looks - nice Click for bigger I did some more clean up and put the major bits together with 5 minute epoxy, using the base as a work stand. He's pretty big - would make a good Eva There was one difficult mould line on the back of the left calf - the right one is fine, the left one had a step which goes right through the socket. I've made some progress on cleaning it but there's still more material to remove/fill. Those hamstrings are cool though. I also put the two main gun components together - had to adjust the slides on the sprung part of the stock, and I also broke the lower spring guard which is very delicate, but it was easy to repair. I'll leave the spring out for now since it can just pop in the guard later. The gun is a little bit soft in detail, so I scribed some of the concave angles to sharpen them up a bit, and I've tried to do all the clean-up with a file to get lots of hard edges. There's a mould line running through the ridges on the top of the body which will be a bugger to clean up properly, I suspect it's better to ignore that one, or remove them completely? I really like the sight, I haven't messed with that at all apart from paring down the hood over the optics to get a thinner edge. Oh - there's a long barrel and one of those boxy muzzle brakes, but there's no point fitting that now since I'd only break it I suspect I'll replace the resin barrel with metal tube anyway. As you can see the gun comes to hand nicely - no issues with fit, both hands grip where/what they should. I think the clip is really a bit close to the torso and hips though, it's not a big issue but since I'm wondering about making the gun a little bit more sci-fi (different muzzle + barrel - maybe suggesting it's somehow a coil gun?) I could remove the clip, or most of it, and have an energy hose from one of the sockets on the drone's back? So primer and more cleanup next. I also have some big unanswered questions, like how to paint it, and can I light it? For the light, the head is really small so the only options I can think of would be: a) Drill out the eyes and run optical fibre through to the channel on the back of the head, and have an SMD LED there, or curve the fibre around into the body or a backpack somehow? Like predator dreads I really don't want to be hollowing out the body though - too much chance to stuff it up and the surface is too smooth to spoil. I also can't see how to run the wires to the base without drilling out everything which would imply some kind of button cell in a backpack? Have an opaque visor over the eyes, with an LED glow behind it? Same issues with the wires, but it could work. On the paint front, I'm not sure whether to go metallic (like the Geth) or something more like District 9/Chris Cunningham/Cerberus armour from Mass Effect - lots of hard white plates with orange or red contrast and black/metallic detail underneath. I really like the idea of hard white, but looking at the figure in close-up there's a lot of what looks like moving "musculature" and maybe less plating than I thought. I'm also not sure how either of these would gel with weathering - I quite like the idea of a clean and shiny robo-soldier in a dusty derelict environment, but that would need a soft touch on the weathering and not give me anywhere to hide with the paint job... I suspect there's a lot of masking in my future Apologies for rambling, hope I can keep some momentum going on this one since it feels like I've been doing military stuff for ages now. Cheers, Will
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