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Found 13 results

  1. Here is the Tamiya Pz II Ausf. C (Polish Campaign) kit backdated to an Ausf. A. The kit actually has most of the parts necessary to build any version from an Ausf. c to an Ausf. C, even though Tamiya never mentions the Ausf.c parts in either version of this kit. I added the Dragon/Cyberhobby interior to the hull and used Dragon Magic Tracks in place of the kit tracks. I am currently working on the French Campaign version of this kit-they are fun little builds.
  2. Hello everyone, here is my finished Panzer Kampfwagen II Ausf. F from Tamiya in 1/35. This was my first time using PE and I also made a work in progress post here for anyone interested. Thanks for looking, Tom
  3. Hello everyone, I thought I would share my Panzer II build. I’ll be building the Ausf. F in Afrika Korp colours and it will be my first time using PE, which I’m nervous and excited about in equal measure. After finishing the Tamiya M41 Walker Bulldog and having been extremely satisfied with the quality of the kit I was looking for something similar in regard to build and challenge. Every time I build a kit I always try to push and challenge myself to help me improve. So for this one I’m going to try my hand with PE from Eduard. Starting with the lower hull, there’s a few seam lines to get rid of but nothing too taxing. The exhaust will be the first part to receive the PE treatment and the difference that the detail makes is astonishing. I also gave the exhaust a small hole to add an extra layer of visual interest and detail. I’ve also taken an opportunity to fill in the holes on the base, I struggled a bit here but with a bit of sanding it came out looking ok. To finish the lower hull I put together the wheels and idler, which again there was no problems with. Before starting on the upper hull I wanted to get the turret out of the way. A small amount of PE again makes a huge difference. I made sure that I was content with the PE parts before removing the plastic. As the build is progressing, so is my confidence with the PE. I’m using VMS flexy 5K CA for PE glue which is working a treat. This build has taken a few weeks to get to this stage because of family and work commitments. It won’t be a fast build but I want to do it right and to the best of my ability. Thanks for reading if you got this far and I hope you enjoy following along! Tom
  4. Hello everyone, After building allied armour most of this year, I'm back on the other side. This is my version of uparmoured Panzer II Ausf C, belonging to 8th company, II battalion, Panzer Regiment 8, 15t Panzer Division, as photographed during Operation Sonnenblume, sometimes during April or May 1941. It's Dragon kit No. 6432. This kit is simply fantastic! There are just minor issues, the biggest one being that they forgot to include rear smoke grenade rack (actually they included the wrong one), so I had to use aftermarket version. Other than that it's just minor issues and it can be built very nicely straight from the box. Kit includes magic tracks, which are my favorite indy tracks. They are so easy to build. Oh, and of course, building instructions are a disaster, but that's quite common with Dragon kits of this period. I used some AM parts: E.T. Models detailing set (which includes smoke grenade rack), AFV Club jerry cans, Aber aerial, Value Gear stowage, and Archer Fine Transfers decals. There was some scratch building involved, mainly to make jerrycan and spare track holders. It's primed with Mr. Surfacer 1500, and painted with Mission Models RAL 7021 as a base color and Gunze Mr Hobby Aqueous Hobby Color H402 as final RAL 8000 camouflage color (my favorite version of RAL 8000). Initial batch of 15 Panzer Division tanks were not field painted. They were painted in Italy before being shipped to North Africa, so they were painted quite neatly (compared to 21st Panzer Division tanks for example). Details are pained mostly with Gunze Metal Colors and Vallejo Model Color. And here are some details: Weathering is Mig's nature effects and pigments. And here's the real thing: There are some inaccuracies in my build. For example, inside of the turret company marking '8' should be white, rear tail light should be convoy light and not the early version that I used, there should be two segments of spare tracks in the front, etc. But, as always, you notice some of these stuff too late. I left first two road wheels and Notek light Dunkelgau. They do look darker on the photo, but this is just a guess I did this just to make some variety. Let's say its repaired battle damage Hope you will like it and all the feedback is very welcome. Cheers, Nenad
  5. OK this one has been sitting on the shelf giving me evil looks every time I pass since it got abandoned during the Kit You Built As A Kid GB - original thread here. No idea what happened during the build process, it was kind of 95% done, but being tiny probably got forgotten. Time to dust it off and finish. Here's where it got left: The tank has been primed in black with some grey shading. I think I was planning to go over with some Dunkelgrau but in order to just get it done I simply gave it a once over with a blue oil filter/wash for panzer grey after the decals were applied. The few tiny decals just didn't want to stick and at various points I ended up with them on my fingers when apply other ones - I hadn't used any decal fix stuff - just bog standard tap water in old school style. I actually did put some decal solvent to help bond them though once they'd dried on to help hold them on. There was supposed to be a larger number on the right side of the turret but it wouldn't fit, so I just exchanged it for the slightly smaller one that was meant to be on the turret rear. The 2 guys got some flesh tone over the primed white, then some sand colour for the uniforms before I gave them a once over with some Army Painter 'soft tone' which is a great acrylic wash for doing quick shading. The rubber tracks - I gave a quick prime with some Vallejo track primer. The base I just added the decal over the door, gave the walls a bit of a grimey oil wash then added lots of pigment powders (light grey, sienna and other earth colours) - I put a little on the tracks and wheels. It all came together quite well - might have been better to darken the tank a little and I did manage to almost snap off one of the tanks headlights and completely snap off the large barrel due to rough handling when trying to get those tiny rubber tracks on, but glued it back. Another build finished off, pretty short thread as it didn't need much but feels good to clear the back log.
  6. Sd.Kfz.131 Marder II 7.5cm Pak 40/2 (SA72020) 1:72 Special Armour by Special Hobby Unlike the original Marder, the Marder II was based upon the chassis of the Panzer II. The German engineers mounted a 75 mm Pak 40 anti-tank gun (131) or captured Russian Pak 36(r) (132) onto a new upper hull, with a large angular shroud installed around the sides and rear of the gun and its crew. It was small and slightly out of proportion like its forebear, with the later Sd.Kfz.131 that sported the German gun having a lower silhouette and wider fighting compartment, but still with poor protection that was to plague it throughout its service life, as would the open-topped casemate that was bitingly cold in the winter months on the Eastern front, which is where the majority of them were sent. Later on it was replaced by a Marder III that was built on the Czech designed Panzer 38(T) chassis that was a little better. The Kit This a rebox of Special Armour’s 2011 tooling, and arrives in an end-opening figure-sized box with two sprues of sand-coloured styrene, decal sheet and instruction booklet inside. The sprue has been snipped to fit inside the new box, so it’s really only one sprue from a pedantic standpoint. The instruction booklet is printed in spot colour in A5 portrait format, with full-colour painting guide on the back pages. Detail is good, but there will be a number of ejector-pin marks that will need to be filled on the interior of the splinter shields. The inner shield on our sample had received a blow during transit, splitting the narrow arched section over the barrel slot, but it was a clean break that should be easy to repair. Construction begins with the lower hull, which has the sides and rear bulkhead attached, followed by the road wheels, return rollers, idlers and drive-sprockets before the single-length tracks are wrapped carefully around the drive-train and trimmed to length before final gluing in place. The interior has a floor fitted, with side detail inserted in the lower hull and two panels in the upper hull before the latter is glued in place. The side screens with internal equipment, plus the aft box-like assembly are made up as sub-assemblies with the radio gear, then they are integrated into the hull, with pioneer tools on the sides and rear, exhaust and towing hook at the rear, and a spare road wheel on the glacis. The gun is almost a stock Pak 40, with a two-part barrel, carrier, mount and sighting gear added first, then the two-layer splinter shield and “cheek” extensions fitted around it, before it is dropped into the socket at the front of the crew compartment. To be modelled in travel-lock mode, the two halves of the gun’s transport support holds the barrel in place, and a latch is fitted to the breech in the upward lock mode, and in a lower position if the lock isn’t being used. Markings There are three decal options on the little sheet, with substantially different camouflage schemes on each option. From the box you can build one of the following: Pz.Jg.Abt.49, Eastern Front, Winter 1943/44 Kohlenklau/Coal Thief, 3./Pz.Jg.Abt.561, Geschützführer Uffz. Helmut Kohlke, Eastern Front, Spring 1943 Dubbed Friedel, Unknown Unit, Eastern Front, Autumn 1943 The decals have been printed by Eduard, and are in good register and sharpness given their size. Conclusion A rerelease of a nice little kit that is coupled with some nice decal options to appeal to the 1:72 AFV modeller. Review sample courtesy of
  7. Hi all, So I'm here now with my second armour build after my Kubelwagen which kick-started my slide over to the AFV section as I'm normally found in the aircraft forum. This time I went for another fairly simple kit by Tamiya - only this time decided to go for a tank - the Panzer II. I really enjoyed this kit and had absolutely no fit problems - I'll definitely continue to do more armour builds and have already added a few to the stash including a Tamiya Panzer IV and the new Airfix re-boxes of a 35t and a Stuart. So here's the pics and as always your feedback is appreciated especially as I'm new to AFV builds: Thanks for looking Kris
  8. Hi, I've been an on and off modeller since I was a kid, but always been a plane man. Having got fed up with spending more time filling and sanding fuselage joins I thought I'd give armour a go. My first effort was the Stug IV, it's not perfect, I noticed a few unfinished bits when I took the pics. The moulded tracks were a disaster but the 3rd Party tracks I've got are a nightmare so it can stay as is for now. https://photos.app.goo.gl/zCehEHcKJyysvrBF3 Thanks For Looking
  9. Hi there, folks. I did it. I finished my Pz II. Actually it was a while ago, but the model had to wait for his photo session. Finally I managed to do it, so there you go. My Panzer II: Hope you liked it. Thanks for watching
  10. Hiya, lads. Two weeks ago I decided to have a go at one of the Group Builds. It ends with the end of May. I just realised that I will not manage to finish my Panzer in that time. Too bad. Therefore I also decided to move all works here and continue with no rush and proper attention. The model is a Tamiya's never-too-old Panzer II F/G. Lovely model. I added an Eduard's PE set, metal barrel's and few other things. Have a look at what I've got so far: The box... Hull... Not many details. It's a great model if you want to start building AFV models. Mine will be upgraded... ...with this PE set. Lot's of little things... And the gun barrels. They are so lovely First... filling holes... ...and making new ones. Also sanpapered fenders. The lower hull and wheels. PE fenders in place... ...and other details. Meanwhile i starter with a turret. Next step was adding more and more PE details. And I put the primer on lower hull. More PE's detailing. I am not going to use the whole set. Some details will remain plastic, as - in my opinion - using PE will not make huge difference, so there's not really a point. But I am using most of'em. That's how it looks so far. The model itself it's not bad when it comes to look, but PE does make whole difference. Enjoy. Soon more to come. Dawid.
  11. Hello, there. Yes, yes - it's another Tamiya's Panzer II, the oldest one (1971). I liked a lot the ones presented by fellow modellers, so I decided to pull mine out of the stash. Here's what I've got. The picture we all know to well Lower hull and main deck. The wheels. Aaaand the second sprue. It's an easy thing to build. Vinyl tracks. I've heard they're a bit too short. We'll see how they'll fit. I don't like when its too easy, so I got Eduards, PE set. I'm not going to use the whole parts - I'll leave plastic fenders as I like them better Now I know that the GB ends with the end of the May, so I'll try to make it in time. Oh, one more thing. I intend to do it in Panzer Grey paint, but the painting instruction is in Japanese and I don't really know which scheme goes in Panzergrau. I am guessing A and E as I've seen some pictures on the net. Maybe some of you, lads, know which one served somewhere in Europe? Thanks. Enjoy. Dawid
  12. German Pz.Kpfw. II Ausf A/B/C detail updates 1:35 ET Models These two new releases from ET Models are for the Tamiya Panzer II. The kit is a very nice kit in its own right, but could be transformed by the use of these sets. [E35-185] Comprising of three sheets of relief etched brass, plus a resin shielded headlight and resin smoke discharger tubes, showing that this set is not as basic as the name on the header card suggests. Contained in the standard poly sleeve with the sheets taped to black card for protection with the instructions on the ubiquitous green A4 paper there is a wealth of detail to be added to the kit. The instructions are, as usual very clear and easy to read, with the very useful addition of diagrams of the kits hull and turret showing where all the sub-assemblies go. There are a number of kit details that need to be removed first before adding being replaced by etched parts and it may be an idea to remove all the areas mentioned in the instructions before starting the build. The modeller will also need to provide styrene or brass rod for certain parts. Construction starts with the assembly of nine hand clamps and brackets before assembling the complex locking mechanism on the interior of the drivers hatch which will need to be left open to appreciate the work. The pioneer tools all receive new brackets and clamps as well as a new shovel blade. There is some more complex cage work for the left hand rear tool box and jack clamps along with clasps and hinges for the storage boxes. The grille on the right hand side rear of the engine deck is made up of separate frames and shutter bars which will look great when fitted. There are another couple of hatches on the engine deck that not only have external detail, but internal mechanisms too, so it would be a shame to fit them closed. The two storage boxes on the right hand fender are also included and will take some careful folding to get them square. The light cluster on the rear bulkhead is completely replaced, but will need the centre piece made out of plastic stock by the modeller. The exhaust receives a new, finer, perforated cover and the smoke dischargers on the rear bulkhead are very nicely detailed, with new resin barrels, holder, cover, brackets and tube cover chains, the whole assembly is then fitted to the exhaust cover. The turret receives new hatch details internally and externally, strengthening beam across the turret just in front of the hatches, lifting eyes and a pair of headphones which will require stretched sprue of very fine thread for the wires. [E35-186] is for those modellers who find that the looks of the kits fenders are just too thick and bulky. Those fenders are completely replaced by etched items which not only look more to scale, but could be bent and modelled to look damaged more easily. The main fender parts are single piece items onto which all the brackets, bolt holes, supports and clamps are fitted. The front and rear mudguards will require some rod to more the basis of the hinges and also include strengthening strips and clamps for some incredibly fine detail. Conclusion Another pair of superb sets that will take the model to the next level of detail and also give the modeller a bit more of a challenge in making all the small parts and bending them to shape. As normally is the case with this type of set, patience and care are the watchwords and although some experience with PE would be beneficial it shouldn’t be insurmountable for the less experienced modeller to achieve a really good result. Highly recommended. Review Sample courtesy of
  13. hi i`m nearly finished got to paint the tools and add to the tank which was paint with a mix of iraqui sand vallejo, revell sand and a drop of white, the figure also needs cleaning up an bit it shouldnt take to long to finish. bye for now.
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